A few questions...

"Dubi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello all, This is my first post here, is there a faq from this newsgroup somewhere, somekind of
guideline?

Bomba the faq's, but I don't know the address of the top.

Quoted message said:

I have just bought my first good bike, my last one, a portuguese 200 bucks supermarket bike, did
brought me a lot of fun, but after one of those babies was stolen (yes we had two of them), I
bought my wife a better bike from a big french sports store, and then I could really feel the
difference a better built product with better parts makes.

Now I have some questions,

I want to use this bike as a fitness tool, on tours with a little "rock and roll" (The plan is to
go to the alps when it gets warm again, april/may 04) and possibly some small triathlons and
"adventure races". My choice after reading a lot, was a hardtail around 1000 bucks with good parts

Regarding the brake system, it's a "magura julie" disk brake, on the first tour, it impressed me
how nice they worked, very smooth, but then I started thinking, is it maybe too much? V-brakes are
lighter, efficient, plus I can repair them if I have a problem in the middle of nowhere. Is this
really an issue?

IMO no. As long as you do a thorough pre-ride checkup, you shouldn't have any problems. Magura's are
generally reliable.

At some point if I feel the need I can always

Quoted message said:

replace them and the weels, can't I? The fork and frame have the places for vbrakes too.

As long as you have the bosses and proper components, yes. The question
is: why bother? The Julie disks aren't all that heavy, unless you're a gram counter.

Quoted message said:

Another thing is how do I work with the fork, a Duke xc, it has an adjustment for the rebound
speed, what's good for what?

That adjusts how fast the fork rebounds after compression. Faster rebound (less damping) is good for
smooth trails, while slower rebound is better for rough trails. Faster doesn't suck up bumps as
well, but resists bob more.

Quoted message said:

I have some concerns about the maintenance of those parts, I'm thinking of keeping my old bike as
a learning ground for bike maintenance, maybe I can find a workshop, so I can take care of some
things myself. I have read a lot about it lately and have learned many interesting things. Any
thoughts about that?

Guinea pigs are good...

Quoted message said:

If you are still with me, thank's and sorry for the long post, the main reason I decided to dive
into MTB is because I used to work as a rafting guide and used to kayak several days a week, now I
live 700 km away from the next rapid, and I needed something to replace/incorporate to that, in
order to stay in shape and closer to nature. Mountain-bike it is, and it has a lot in common with
kayaking!

Thank's for any thoughts,

Dubi

Welcome.

--
Cameron

Quoted message said:

Hello all, This is my first post here, is there a faq from this newsgroup somewhere, somekind of
guideline?

Courtesy of Bomba. Don't mind all the typo's t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Thank's for any thoughts,

Dubi

You welcome and welcome to the friendliest Newsgroup on the net.
--
Slacker

Slacker said:

Quoted message said:

Hello all, This is my first post here, is there a faq from this newsgroup somewhere, somekind of
guideline?

Courtesy of Bomba. Don't mind all the typo's t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Thank's for any thoughts,

Dubi

You welcome and welcome to the friendliest Newsgroup on the net.

Cameron said...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Another thing is how do I work with the fork, a Duke xc, it has an adjustment for the rebound
speed, what's good for what?

That adjusts how fast the fork rebounds after compression. Faster rebound (less damping) is good
for smooth trails, while slower rebound is better for rough trails. Faster doesn't suck up bumps
as well, but resists bob more.

Huh? Slow rebound is the last thing you want on a rough trail. The fork will pack up and bottom out
easier. Too much rebound damping will also make the ride unnecessarily harsh. The best use for
rebound damping is to compensate for spring rate and preload, or air pressure in the case of an air
shock. If you have stiff springs, high preload or high air pressure, the fork will naturally rebound
faster than with softer springs or less air pressure, hence rebound damping to keep the fork from
kicking back too much. Rebound damping settings are also a personal preference thing, but generally
you want less rebound damping instead of more for the suspension to work its best. You can use
rebound damping to fight bob, but in my experience this is much more of an issue for rear shocks
than forks. Besides that it is a tradeoff. Lots of rebound damping is great for fighting bob, not so
great for downhill sections or rough sections.

"P e t e F a g e r l i n" wrote...

Quoted message said:

Slacker said:

You welcome and welcome to the friendliest Newsgroup on the net.

Oooo, you just used the F word! I don't think Bomba is going to appreciate that.
--
Slacker

Slacker said:

Oooo, you just used the F word! I don't think Bomba is going to appreciate that.

Definitely. It goes against my christian fundamentalist beliefs...

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

b.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htmOpen ↗

bomba <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Slacker wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Oooo, you just used the F word! I don't think Bomba is going to

appreciate

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

that.

Definitely. It goes against my christian fundamentalist beliefs...

Quoted message said:

',;~}~

Shaun aRe

"Shaun Rimmer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Who's Christina and what's her fundamentalist belief?

- CA-G

Can-Am Girls Kick Ass!

Shaun Rimmer said:

Carla A-G <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Shaun Rimmer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Who's Christina and what's her fundamentalist belief?

How the hell should I know?!?!? Never met a Christina in my life.....

Shaun aRe - ......least not one that wasn't corrupt to the core and a dirty rotten [censored] into
the bargain.

I knew a Christina once, but I never saw her fundament

Martin

Dubi said:

Hello all, This is my first post here, is there a faq from this newsgroup somewhere, somekind of
guideline?

t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗ - looked after by Bomba and a good read - gave me a good
laugh for the weekend.

Quoted message said:

Regarding the brake system, it's a "magura julie" disk brake, on the first tour, it impressed me
how nice they worked, very smooth, but then I started thinking, is it maybe too much? V-brakes are
lighter, efficient, plus I can repair them if I have a problem in the middle of nowhere.

I doubt both will fail at the same time and unless somewhere really weird I would expect you should
be able to limp home with one.

P.
--
Paul Matthews [email hidden] hepcats.co.ukhepcats.co.ukOpen ↗

Shaun Rimmer said:

How the hell should I know?!?!? Never met a Christina in my life.....

Shaun aRe - ......least not one that wasn't corrupt to the core and a dirty rotten [censored] into
the bargain.

Got any phone numbers?
--
Paul Matthews [email hidden] hepcats.co.ukhepcats.co.ukOpen ↗

"Super Slinky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Cameron said...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Another thing is how do I work with the fork, a Duke xc, it has an adjustment for the rebound
speed, what's good for what?

That adjusts how fast the fork rebounds after compression. Faster rebound (less damping) is good
for smooth trails, while slower rebound is better for rough trails. Faster doesn't suck up bumps
as well, but resists bob more.

Huh? Slow rebound is the last thing you want on a rough trail. The fork will pack up and bottom
out easier. Too much rebound damping will also make the ride unnecessarily harsh. The best use for
rebound damping is to compensate for spring rate and preload, or air pressure in the case of an
air shock. If you have stiff springs, high preload or high air pressure, the fork will naturally
rebound faster than with softer springs or less air pressure, hence rebound damping to keep the
fork from kicking back too much. Rebound damping settings are also a personal preference thing,
but generally you want less rebound damping instead of more for the suspension to work its best.
You can use rebound damping to fight bob, but in my experience this is much more of an issue for
rear shocks than forks. Besides that it is a tradeoff. Lots of rebound damping is great for
fighting bob, not so great for downhill sections or rough sections.

Chill out! I was giving a very basic answer. Obviously it depends heavily on the specific fork/shock
being used. And I didn't say 'turn the damping all the way up'. That would make it feel dead and
unresponsive. I have my Psylo set smack in the middle.

--
Cameron

"Dubi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, "Cameron"

Quoted message said:

"Dubi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello all, This is my first post here, is there a faq from this newsgroup somewhere, somekind
of guideline?

Quoted message said:

snip<

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Regarding the brake system, it's a "magura julie" disk brake, on the first tour, it impressed
me how nice they worked, very smooth, but then I started thinking, is it maybe too much?
V-brakes are lighter, efficient, plus I can repair them if I have a problem in the middle of
nowhere. Is this really an issue?

IMO no. As long as you do a thorough pre-ride checkup, you shouldn't have any problems. Magura's
are generally reliable.

Quoted message said:

snip<

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thank's for any thoughts,

Dubi

Welcome.

Thank's for the answers, and sorry for all the namecalling generated by this thread! 🙂

Happens all the time. Apologizing around here can get you flamed....

Quoted message said:

Apart from any visible wear and fluid leak, what else should I look for when doing a thorough
pre-ride checkup of my brakes?

Aside from the usual all over checks like bolt torque, damage, etc, the only thing with those disks
is to periodically measure the gap between the pad tabs while sqeezing the lever. Or just removing
the pads and visually inspecting them for wear. But depending on the type of material they use, they
could be good for a year or so.

Quoted message said:

Dubi
--

Email is fake, sorry, have lost too many accounts to spam...

I live in a state where spam is illegal. Obviously won't stop it, but it has slowed down
considerably. On one account I had several years I was receiving about 15-25 junk emails a day!

--
Cameron

Carla A-G said:

Who's Christina and what's her fundamentalist belief?

Aguilera, and I fink we all know what is her fundamentalist belief. Aiiie.

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

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<[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Shaun Rimmer said:

Carla A-G <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Shaun Rimmer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Who's Christina and what's her fundamentalist belief?

How the hell should I know?!?!? Never met a Christina in my life.....

Shaun aRe - ......least not one that wasn't corrupt to the core and a

dirty

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

rotten [censored] into the bargain.

I knew a Christina once, but I never saw her fundament

Martin

Couldn't afford the price huh?

Shaun aRe

Paul Matthews <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Shaun Rimmer said:

How the hell should I know?!?!? Never met a Christina in my life.....

Shaun aRe - ......least not one that wasn't corrupt to the core and a

dirty

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

rotten [censored] into the bargain.

Got any phone numbers?

Yup! +44 1254 51212

HTH, HAND!

Shaun aRe

Cameron said...

Quoted message said:

Chill out! I was giving a very basic answer. Obviously it depends heavily on the specific
fork/shock being used. And I didn't say 'turn the damping all the way up'. That would make it feel
dead and unresponsive. I have my Psylo set smack in the middle.

Sorry, dude, but your answer was just flat out wrong and everything you said was the exact opposite
of how rebound damping actually works. I thought I was being polite and restrained. You have noticed
the tone of some of the other posts here haven't you? Just to recap:

1. On a rough trail, you want as little rebound damping as possible (fast rebound) without the fork
kicking back or acting like a pogo stick.

2. You can fight bob by increasing rebound damping (slower rebound). This is good for climbing or
long smooth sections of trail or road riding.

If you have your rebound damping in the middle position, try backing it off some and see if your
ride is plusher. It can make a big difference.

"Super Slinky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Cameron said...

Quoted message said:

Chill out! I was giving a very basic answer. Obviously it depends heavily on the specific
fork/shock being used. And I didn't say 'turn the damping all the way up'. That would make it
feel dead and unresponsive. I have my Psylo set smack in the middle.

Sorry, dude, but your answer was just flat out wrong and everything you said was the exact
opposite of how rebound damping actually works.

And yet we generally agree.

I

Quoted message said:

thought I was being polite and restrained. You have noticed the tone of some of the other posts
here haven't you? Just to recap:

Dude, relax! :-)

Quoted message said:

1. On a rough trail, you want as little rebound damping as possible (fast rebound) without the
fork kicking back or acting like a pogo stick.

That's where we partially disagree. In my experience, faster rebound works best especially when
riding fast, steep terrain. Obviously you would want the rebound to keep up with terrain changes.
However, on relentless up and down type trails that have constant roots and rocks going both up and
down, a little extra damping helps the tires roll over without bouncing off or hanging up so much.
Mainly where the grade and trail doesn't accommodate high speeds. But both need to be balanced to
the type of trail and fork/bike. Riding over a big root into a steep descent with way too much front
damping is a recipe for an endo. And riding a very rooty flat section with little damping will cause
a loss of momentum when the front rebounds faster than you are crossing the obstacles.

Quoted message said:

2. You can fight bob by increasing rebound damping (slower rebound). This is good for climbing or
long smooth sections of trail or road riding.

Not really and issue for me, since both my trail bike and brand new FR/DH (!!) are FS. I usually try
to stay seated. However, riding my trail bike uphill on roads I prefer less damping. It gives the
fork a somewhat stiffer feel, since my hands spend more time at the same level. But on rough trail
climbs, I prefer more damping because it allows me to climb over obstacles with less momentum loss.

Quoted message said:

If you have your rebound damping in the middle position, try backing it off some and see if your
ride is plusher. It can make a big difference.

Already experimented on my trail bike. I have it set in that position because I like it. My new '03
JrT has internal rebound, but after my first (real) ride I was quite happy. Of course, that may be
just the difference between a Marzocchi and a RockShox.

--
If I crashed into a tree and nobody was around to hear me scream, did I really make a sound?

Cameron

Cameron said...

Quoted message said:

"Super Slinky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Sorry, dude, but your answer was just flat out wrong and everything you said was the exact
opposite of how rebound damping actually works.

And yet we generally agree.

I guess I missed that part, but what the hey, I'm an agreeable person.

Quoted message said:

Dude, relax! :-)

You underestimate my state of relaxation.

Quoted message said:

That's where we partially disagree. In my experience, faster rebound works best especially when
riding fast, steep terrain. Obviously you would want the rebound to keep up with terrain changes.
However, on relentless up and down type trails that have constant roots and rocks going both up
and down, a little extra damping helps the tires roll over without bouncing off or hanging up so
much. Mainly where the grade and trail doesn't accommodate high speeds. But both need to be
balanced to the type of trail and fork/bike. Riding over a big root into a steep descent with way
too much front damping is a recipe for an endo. And riding a very rooty flat section with little
damping will cause a loss of momentum when the front rebounds faster than you are crossing the
obstacles.

No disagreement there. If you are bouncing off anything because of rebound, then you need more
damping. And I would never claim that any setting is going to be perfect for every situation.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2. You can fight bob by increasing rebound damping (slower rebound). This is good for climbing
or long smooth sections of trail or road

Quoted message said:

Not really and issue for me, since both my trail bike and brand new FR/DH (!!) are FS. I usually
try to stay seated. However, riding my trail bike uphill on roads I prefer less damping. It gives
the fork a somewhat stiffer feel, since my hands spend more time at the same level. But on rough
trail climbs, I prefer more damping because it allows me to climb over obstacles with less
momentum loss.

You lost me here. How does FS make bob not an issue? I also don't understand how less rebound
damping can give a fork a stiffer feel. But I'm not riding your bikes, so I won't argue about it.
The last sentence makes some sense because if the fork is packing up you will have effectively less
travel, which is a good thing going up hills. But what you really want is something that actually
reduces travel, like the Marzocchi ETA adjustment offers, or a lockout. I think part of our
communication problem is that you are talking about forks and when I talk about combatting bob, I am
speaking mainly about rear shocks. That is where the bob fighting action is. Rear shock bob robs
serious amounts of acceleration and top speed and can make you seasick spinning on the small ring.
That's why we have Brain shocks, SPV, VPP, NRS etc.