8 speed STI problems

"Lou D'Amelio" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:
(litany of complaints follows)

I assume you're using index cables?

Lou D'Amelio said:

Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:

L hand shifter - when upshifting, doesn't "catch" and cable slips back, making me unable to get to
the big ring. After 4 or 5 tries, it will catch in the intermediate trim position, then I can
shift up to the big ring. Is it more likely that something is shot inside and it needs replacement
or is this just a reflection of age/ accumulated grime and they need a good off-the bike blast of
WD-40 ? Anything I'm missing?

It's probably shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try the WD-40 routine. You might consider using a DT
lever for the front.

Quoted message said:

R hand shifter: behaves fine in the stand. When outside, as the weather gets colder, the small
lever doesn't click to release cable and move to smaller cogs. I might have to flick it 5-10 times
to get a shift. Same question - just gummed up, shot to hell, or is there something I can replace
ala a spring ?

That's fairly common. I'd first try replacing the cable and housings using a bit of oil (not grease)
on the inner wire. If no go, try WD-40. If still no go, try eBay for replacements.

Art Harris

Lou -- I had a similar problem on my Merckx last year with, if I recall, ~18k miles at the time.
Nothing wrong with the levers, though. The problem turned out to be rust in the six-year-old STI
cable housings impeding cable movement, even though the cables themselves had been replaced a few
times, lightly greased, etc.

Figuring my levers were shot, I was taking things apart to put my spare ones. As soon as I pulled
the STI cables the rust was obvious. Hmmm, I thought, this may be the culprit! I put new housings on
and retried the old levers -- they worked fine, and still do with 22k miles.

Mike Yankee

(Address is munged to thwart spammers. To reply, delete everything after "com".)

"Lou D'Amelio" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:

L hand shifter - when upshifting, doesn't "catch" and cable slips back, making me unable to get to
the big ring. After 4 or 5 tries, it will catch in the intermediate trim position, then I can
shift up to the big ring. Is it more likely that something is shot inside and it needs replacement
or is this just a reflection of age/ accumulated grime and they need a good off-the bike blast of
WD-40 ? Anything I'm missing?

R hand shifter: behaves fine in the stand. When outside, as the weather gets colder, the small
lever doesn't click to release cable and move to smaller cogs. I might have to flick it 5-10 times
to get a shift. Same question - just gummed up, shot to hell, or is there something I can replace
ala a spring ?

Here's a few possible fixes that *might* work:

easiest WD40 flush: chainreactionbicycles.comnoisystilevers.htmOpen ↗

Steve Alkire's 105/8spd disassembly/assembly
cyclingforum.comSTIdisDetail.docOpen ↗

Bill Cotton's STI repair: billcotton.comsti shifter repair.htmOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

It's probably shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try the WD-40 routine. You

might

Quoted message said:

consider using a DT lever for the front.

I would like to ask... using WD-40, wouldn't the oil in the suspension tend to gum up over
time? Wouldn't it be better to use a true degreaser inside the lever and then silicone spray
after it dries?

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

Quoted message said:

It's probably shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try the WD-40 routine.

Quoted message said:

I would like to ask... using WD-40, wouldn't the oil in the suspension

tend

Quoted message said:

to gum up over time? Wouldn't it be better to use a true degreaser inside the lever and then
silicone spray after it dries?

The normal procedure is to give it a good flush with WD-40 which should get rid of most of the gunk.
It's pretty much a last ditch effort to get a little more life out of the lever. Mike J. prefers
Powerlube to WD-40.

Art Harris

Lou D'Amelio <[email hidden]> wrote:
: Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
: when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:

I have just finished refurbishing a set of these same levers. The only real problem they had was
that the grease inside the housings had transmogrified into a sticky, waxy goop. It wasn't clear
whether this was the original Shimano grease (which I suspect) or the end result of owner enthusiastically-
applied 'maintenance'.

To be thorough I completely stripped and cleaned each spring, washer, pawl, plate, and surface. I
greased the parts as I put the levers back together and they now work fine. To put your mind at
ease, while there are quite a number of parts in the levers, they are mechanically fairly simple and
robust. Springs are generally modestly stressed so it would be unlikely that any would need
replacing. The 'bearing' surfaces are also quite large and more than adequate to take the loads
asked of them. I saw no evidence of real wear - just witness marking. The only place that needed
help was on the pickup point in the mechanism of the return lever pawl of the RH lever. It had
become rounded so the chance of missing a shift to a smaller sprocket was increased. I simply filed
it square again, probably removing 0.5mm. That would translate to about 1 more degree of lever
travel before engaging the pawl - not noticeable.

I wouldn't recommend stripping the levers as I've done. It takes meticulous care and unshakeable
patience. I've done it a few times now on different levers and have a good mental map of how things
fit back together which speeds things up no end, because, no matter how careful you are
dissassembling, you will have to figure out how the levers work to get it all back together. And,
the left lever is significanlty different to the right in just about all aspects so you'd have two
cycling rubic's cubes to solve! I do this because I have a warped mind and enjoy such mechanical
puzzles, but I realise not everyone else does. You could end up with a box of useless parts if you
can't see the project through.

From your description, it sound like the grease has passed its use-by date and is no longer
functioning as a lubricant. Grab the WD40 and flush, flush, flush. It isn't a lubricant on its own
so I would find a high quality light oil and get that in after the flushing and drying.

Hope this help, cheerz, Lynzz

Phil, Squid-in-Training <[email hidden]> wrote:
:> It's probably shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try the WD-40 routine. You
: might
:> consider using a DT lever for the front.

: I would like to ask... using WD-40, wouldn't the oil in the suspension tend to gum up over
: time? Wouldn't it be better to use a true degreaser inside the lever and then silicone spray
: after it dries?

Since when was WD-40 a lubricant? If it has any lubricating properties they are so slight as to be
no possibility of gumming up.

Cheerz, Lynzz

Derek Hodges said:

"Lou D'Amelio" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:
(litany of complaints follows)

I assume you're using index cables?

What, precisely, are index cables?

Rob Strickland

Quoted message said:

That's fairly common. I'd first try replacing the cable and housings using a bit of oil (not
grease) on the inner wire. If no go, try WD-40. If still no go, try eBay for replacements.

Art Harris

And if you'd prefer rebuildable levers consider Campy.

Rob Strickland

Quoted message said:

From your description, it sound like the grease has passed its use-by date and is no longer
functioning as a lubricant. Grab the WD40 and flush, flush, flush. It isn't a lubricant on its own
so I would find a high quality light oil and get that in after the flushing and drying.

Or, just pick up a can of PowerLube (available at finer auto-parts stores everywhere!) and flush
away. PowerLube will both clean out the old goop *and* relube the levers nicely. WD40 is more a
cleaner than a solvent; fi I were going to do the job in two separate parts (a cleaner and a lube),
I'd use something made specifically for cleaning rather than WD40.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

"Lindsay Rowlands" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Lou D'Amelio <[email hidden]> wrote:
: Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
: when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:

I have just finished refurbishing a set of these same levers. The only real problem they had was
that the grease inside the housings had transmogrified into a sticky, waxy goop. It wasn't clear
whether this was the original Shimano grease (which I suspect) or the end result of owner enthusiastically-
applied 'maintenance'.

To be thorough I completely stripped and cleaned each spring, washer, pawl, plate, and surface. I
greased the parts as I put the levers back together and they now work fine. To put your mind at
ease, while there are quite a number of parts in the levers, they are mechanically fairly simple
and robust. Springs are generally modestly stressed so it would be unlikely that any would need
replacing. The 'bearing' surfaces are also quite large and more than adequate to take the loads
asked of them. I saw no evidence of real wear - just witness marking. The only place that needed
help was on the pickup point in the mechanism of the return lever pawl of the RH lever. It had
become rounded so the chance of missing a shift to a smaller sprocket was increased. I simply
filed it square again, probably removing 0.5mm. That would translate to about 1 more degree of
lever travel before engaging the pawl - not noticeable.

I wouldn't recommend stripping the levers as I've done. It takes meticulous care and unshakeable
patience. I've done it a few times now on different levers and have a good mental map of how
things fit back together which speeds things up no end, because, no matter how careful you are
dissassembling, you will have to figure out how the levers work to get it all back together. And,
the left lever is significanlty different to the right in just about all aspects so you'd have two
cycling rubic's cubes to solve! I do this because I have a warped mind and enjoy such mechanical
puzzles, but I realise not everyone else does. You could end up with a box of useless parts if you
can't see the project through.

From your description, it sound like the grease has passed its use-by date and is no longer
functioning as a lubricant. Grab the WD40 and flush, flush, flush. It isn't a lubricant on its own
so I would find a high quality light oil and get that in after the flushing and drying.

Hope this help, cheerz, Lynzz

Robert Strickland said:

What, precisely, are index cables?

This refers to the shift cable housing used with indexed systems. Brake cable housing uses a spiral
wire through which the inner wire runs. Spiral housing was also used for shift cable housing before
indexed systems came along. The "Indexed" housing uses a bundle of wires that run parallel to the
cable. Shimano indexed housing is called SIS for Shimano Indexing System.

For more info on this see:

sheldonbrown.comcables.htmlOpen ↗

Art Harris

idamelio-<< Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR> << L hand shifter - when upshifting, doesn't "catch" and cable slips back, making me

unable to get to the big ring. After 4 or 5 tries, >><BR><BR> << Is it more likely that something is
shot inside and it needs replacement or is this just a reflection of age/ accumulated grime and they
need a good off-the bike blast of WD-40 ? >><BR><BR>

No way to replace anything inside as these are not repairable, no small parts offered by
the 'Big S'.

Try STI repair kit, liberal flush with WD-40-may help but i think it is 'adios' ....

idamelio<< R hand shifter: behaves fine in the stand. When outside, as the weather gets colder, the
small lever doesn't click to release cable and move to smaller cogs. I might have to flick it 5-10
times to get a shift. Same question - just gummed up, shot to hell, or is there something I can
replace ala a spring ? >><BR><BR>

Same as the left-flush the things, amy try new cables/housing, ensuring no cable is frayed anywhere.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Quoted message said:

And if you'd prefer rebuildable levers consider Campy.

Rob Strickland

Done. My race / training ride has been Campy for the last 4 years. I'd never switch back. This, as I
mentioned, is my winter beater - a compilation of parts on a warranty frame.

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

WD40 is more a cleaner than a solvent

I think you meant to write "WD40 is more a cleaner than a _lube_". WD40 is mostly solvent.
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA terrymorse.combikeOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

WD40 is more a cleaner than a solvent

I think you meant to write "WD40 is more a cleaner than a _lube_". WD40 is mostly solvent.
--

Um, yeah, that's the ticket! No wonder I confuse some of my customers...

Thanks. At least I didn't say it was more a lube than a solvent.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com

Robert Strickland said:

Derek Hodges said:

"Lou D'Amelio" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi - I have Ultegra 8 speed on my winter beater. They have about 15,000 miles on them, about 12K
when this was my primary bike and about 3 k of bad-weather use. Noticing the following problems:
(litany of complaints follows)

I assume you're using index cables?

What, precisely, are index cables?

Rob Strickland

More correctly index casing; the stuff which is wound in a high helix, a.k.s.,
"compressionless" casing.

Normal spiral-wound (now called "brake casing"😉 casing will not give as crisp a response at the end
of a casing run. That is critial to today's sensitive index gear systems.

Just about any modern wire will give good results in 5mm index casing, although some are smoother
finish than others.

In 4mm casing, a special thin wire is required.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

bfd said:

"Lou D'Amelio" <[email hidden]> wrote ...

Quoted message said:

L hand shifter - when upshifting, doesn't "catch" and cable slips back, making me unable to get to
the big ring.

I haven't experienced that one.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

R hand shifter: ...as the weather gets colder, the small lever doesn't click to release cable and
move to smaller cogs.

I've had that problem with two right STI levers. And I had a similar problem with one left lever. I
used this procedure to start:

Quoted message said:

easiest WD40 flush: chainreactionbicycles.comnoisystilevers.htmOpen ↗

That procedure alone seemed to get the levers working again for a month or two. But after a few
repetitions of that, I decided to add some oil after the WD40 had been released. That was more than
a year ago and I haven't had problems since. I suggest using your favorite chain lube since you
probably have some on hand. I used chainsaw oil.

Dave dvt at psu dot edu