Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

700c Wheel advice please??

Started by Jaguar27 · · Last activity · 9 posts · 1,042 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
15 April 2004
Last activity
17 April 2004
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Jaguar27
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  1. Hello everyone,
    I was out riding today and there was a horrible *POINK* sound from my rear wheel, I presently have Alex R450 Wheels on my Felt F85, a Spoke had snapped off from the Hub...

    I took the wheel into Supergo and they fitted a new spoke...when I got home and put it back on the Bike, the Rim is running true between the Brake Blocks but is now not concentric with the Hub, it's probably running about 1/8" out of round (excentric).

    I have around 1100 miles on the Bike, nothing like this has happened before...

    Soooo, my question is, I am thinking of upgrading the wheels, I don't want to spend a fortune, it's a low-end Bike.

    Any suggestions?

    And by the way, how do I measure the spacing? is this dimension taken between the rear stays when the Hub is in place?
    I have an 8-speed Tiagra Cassette and Durailleurs on the rear if that's any help....

    Any help/advice will be really appreciated!!

  2. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Jaguar27
    Hello everyone,
    I was out riding today and there was a horrible *POINK* sound from my rear wheel, I presently have Alex R450 Wheels on my Felt F85, a Spoke had snapped off from the Hub...

    I took the wheel into Supergo and they fitted a new spoke...when I got home and put it back on the Bike, the Rim is running true between the Brake Blocks but is now not concentric with the Hub, it's probably running about 1/8" out of round (excentric).

    I have around 1100 miles on the Bike, nothing like this has happened before...

    Soooo, my question is, I am thinking of upgrading the wheels, I don't want to spend a fortune, it's a low-end Bike.

    Any suggestions?

    And by the way, how do I measure the spacing? is this dimension taken between the rear stays when the Hub is in place?
    I have an 8-speed Tiagra Cassette and Durailleurs on the rear if that's any help....

    Any help/advice will be really appreciated!!

    Have the wheel trued. Spokes can be tensioned to bring it true radially and laterally and have even spoke tension.

  3. You should be able to have your wheel trued by a good wheel person like daveornee suggested. If you decide to get a new wheelset anyway, I'd suggest checking on eBay. You should be able to find a decent wheelset there (you can find brand new ones) that won't set you back too much.

  4. <SNIP>
    And by the way, how do I measure the spacing? is this dimension taken between the rear stays when the Hub is in place?

    Any help/advice will be really appreciated!! [/B][/QUOTE]

    How to measure the OLD (Over Locknut Dimesnion) can be done as shown on Sheldon Brown's website at:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing
    or as described at:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m-o.html#old
    which says:
    "Over-Locknut-Dimension
    The distance between the outermost locknuts of a conventional hub axle, or whatever equivalent parts fit against the inside surfaces of the fork ends of a frame. They must match the spacing (see chart) of the frame that the wheels are to be installed in. "

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Jaguar27
    Hello everyone,


    And by the way, how do I measure the spacing? is this dimension taken between the rear stays when the Hub is in place?
    I have an 8-speed Tiagra Cassette and Durailleurs on the rear if that's any help....

    Any help/advice will be really appreciated!!

    Current 8,9,10 speed road is 130 dropout spacing. MTB is 135. Hybrid and comfort bikes will vary depending on the hub used.

  6. Just for interest's sake: I think I read something recently about a frame (I think a cyclocross frame) which had a 132.5mm rear dropout spacing - presumably so that you can use a 130mm or 135mm hub, and the frame can bend to make up the difference.

  7. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by mjw_byrne
    Just for interest's sake: I think I read something recently about a frame (I think a cyclocross frame) which had a 132.5mm rear dropout spacing - presumably so that you can use a 130mm or 135mm hub, and the frame can bend to make up the difference.

    Thanks to all who answered my query...you were all more than helpfull!!

  8. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by daveornee
    Have the wheel trued. Spokes can be tensioned to bring it true radially and laterally and have even spoke tension.

    Thanks for the reply...

    The problem, as I see it...and the Guy at the Bike shop, is that I have entry level wheels...the spoke snapped and the (rear)wheel went way out of true...I was 5 miles away from the Car and didn't want to walk, so I released the Brakes and rode slowly back...so I probably did even more damage...

    The Bike shop Guy did do a superb job however, the new spoke was inserted and the wheel came out very true laterally but ran out radially, so I took it back in and he did correct it as much as he could...I did 14 miles on the Bike yesterday and it seemed OK, but I don't have much confidence in it now...the same thing could happen again....

    I have done 1100+ miles on the Bike so far, so I'm not complaining...I weigh 200Lbs and ride very hard...I should have listened to everyone in the know..."Spend more money and get a better Bike with better components".....

    So I'm planning on doing that in October....

    In the meanwhile, I need to get some nice wheels....😉

  9. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by boudreaux
    Current 8,9,10 speed road is 130 dropout spacing. MTB is 135. Hybrid and comfort bikes will vary depending on the hub used.

    Thank you!!

    😉

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