36" road – which pedals?

I have the plastic ones, which you get on the QU-AX 36". Don't have any
problems with them.

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goldenchicken III said:

Up till now I have been using the same sort of pedals as I use for muni:
platforms with pins. Now I find them too grippy. Especially when I need
to alter my foot position. What pedals do you use on your big wheel?

What kind of 36" do you have?? Just curious. 😄

Is it the
- *Nimbus*
- *Qu-Ax*
- *Radial*
- *Other??*

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ivan said:

Its a wild ride, grabs me by the shoe-lace, and doesn't let go till I do
a face-plant.

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I've got regular no-brand alloy DX style pedals on my Schlumpf, and
they're fine. I probably move my foot around a bit more on that to get
it in the right position to change gear, but don't find the pins a
problem.

I've got the DK Iron Cross pedals on my Blizzard uni, and those are
very grippy.

Maybe rather than changing your pedals, you might want to think about
changing your shoes? That will also make a big difference to how much
your feet stick to the pedals.

STM

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semach.the.monkey said:

Maybe rather than changing your pedals, you might want to think about
changing your shoes? That will also make a big difference to how much
your feet stick to the pedals.

It is an idea but I would prefer not to. I have three shoes to choose
from and they look pretty much the same underneath – coarse pattern and
most important to me – a thick, hard & stiff sole.

Hazmat: Nimbus

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There's no such thing as too grippy, you're just pushing down too hard
on the pedals to let you move your foot around.

To change your foot position, lift your feet up slightly when you're
doing it, either straight up if you're confident, or tilt to one side
slightly and twist otherwise. It works even with super long pins on
super sticky shoes.

It's much better to have something that feels too sticky than something
you can easily slip your feet around on.

If you must buy new pedals, I use vp road pedals with half toeclips,
but they're a bit of a marmite thing, some people hate them.

Joe

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Dammit joemarshall, you're right! I just have to start practicing. 🙂

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I like these:
http://tinyurl.com/2ukx2r

Great price too!

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I use the 'Sun-Ringle Zu-Zu pedals'
(http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Pedal/product_22428.shtml). They have the
classic DX pedal style shape.

There is a technique for changing your foot position with pedals that
have the DX style shape. Tilt your foot to the outside so your foot is
in contact with just the pointy end of the pedal. You now have one
point of contact with the pedal and can easily rotate your foot to a
desired position. Now put your foot down flat and you're good to go.

That's the advantage to the DX style pedal shape. It makes it easier
to adjust foot position without completely lifting your foot from the
pedal.

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Super Light and Super Grippy are the things I look for in my pedals. I
go with Magnesium bodied pinned pedals with rediculously long pins.

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I was thinking about upgrading to Azonic platforms or to Slim Jim
platforms.... but I haven't got any money so I have some worn down
welgo pinned pedals on my 36'er

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john_childs said:

There is a technique for changing your foot position with pedals that
have the DX style shape. Tilt your foot to the outside so your foot is
in contact with just the pointy end of the pedal. You now have one
point of contact with the pedal and can easily rotate your foot to a
desired position. Now put your foot down flat and you're good to go.

That's the advantage to the DX style pedal shape. It makes it easier
to adjust foot position without completely lifting your foot from the
pedal.

Thanks for the tip, but altering the angle is not a problem for me.
After freemounting my foot lands to close to the crank. Either the shoe
will rub against the crank or my thigh/knee chafe the Magura. So in my
case I will have to lift the foot and put it down a little further out
on the pedal.

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I like a lot of grippines on my 36-er. I use the same pinned Snafu
pedals that I have on my muni. I like them, I'm used to them, and by
having them on both primary rides, that's one factor I don't have to
adjust for when switching unicycles.

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I bought these a few months ago for 8$, and was so impressed I wrote a
review, and bought an extra pair.

http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62221

The grip is perfect, even in the rain, yet the teeth scrape rather then
bite in and cut, like a pin can. Foot repositioning is easier then with
pins, though Joe is right, one could just learn to lift the foot more.

I originally got them out of curiosity, as their 330 gram weight for
the pair was the lowest of any pedal available at any price, with a
full size platform.

Now 4 months, several bashes and 1000+ miles later they are as good as
new. The best 36 street pedal at any price IMHO.

+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: PD1097.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/22769 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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joemarshall said:

If you must buy new pedals, I use vp road pedals with half toeclips, but
they're a bit of a marmite thing, some people hate them.

Like these?

[image: http://www.eatonbikes.com/images/Master/Large/95301.jpg]

I am used to spd clipless pedals/shoes on my recumbent bike and on the
mtb when riding in the woods but for unicycling ... I'm not sure. The
benefits are of course the same as in other types of cycling but the
risks seem obvious. Did you have to change the way you ride in order to
minimize the risks? I guess it takes a while before one feels
comfortable freemounting a 36" with clips.

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On my snafu pedals I took out the pins and just have the 4 permanent
ones on it. I find that very good for traction and foot mobility. I
have the pins still because I know I will get comfortable enough to put
them back in some day.

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MuniAddict said:

I like these:
http://tinyurl.com/2ukx2r

Great price too!

Do you know which if any size of pedal protectors will fit those? (I
might have missed it in the list even though I checked several times)

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feel the light said:

I bought these a few months ago for 8$, and was so impressed I wrote a
review, and bought an extra pair.

http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62221

The grip is perfect, even in the rain, yet the teeth scrape rather then
bite in and cut, like a pin can. Foot repositioning is easier then with
pins, though Joe is right, one could just learn to lift the foot more.

I originally got them out of curiosity, as their 330 gram weight for
the pair was the lowest of any pedal available at any price, with a
full size platform.

Now 4 months, several bashes and 1000+ miles later they are as good as
new. The best 36 street pedal at any price IMHO.

Every plastic pedal I have rode are bad in the rain even pc's. They
seemed ok at first, but I learned. I say if you want a little gip get
some wellgo mag's off www.danscomp.com and just take some of the pins
out.

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jerrick said:

I think we should get off the topic off kinky/horny girls and unicycles,
and back to creepy horny men.

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goldenchicken III said:

Thanks for the tip, but altering the angle is not a problem for me.
After freemounting my foot lands to close to the crank. Either the shoe
will rub against the crank or my thigh/knee chafe the Magura. So in my
case I will have to lift the foot and put it down a little further out
on the pedal.

I often have the same problem after mounting. In that case you have to
lift the foot and reposition. Lifting the foot to reposition on the
pedal(s) is not difficult at the slow speed you're going right after
mounting. It does really help though to be able to ride well one
footed with either foot. Then lifting the foot becomes trivial.

In some cases you can also walk the foot over to the side of the pedal.
Tilt to the outside of the foot and rotate. Then tilt to the inside
of the foot and rotate. Repeat until the foot is where you want it.

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Plastic pedals on a Coker give you less low speed control. Slow speed
control for things like tight turns or U-turns or zig-zaging around
pedestrians requires that you be able to apply some body english to the
pedals. It really helps to be able to put some twisting force on the
pedals to get the Coker to respond more aggressively. You can't put
body english into the pedals when you have plastic pedals.

Metal pedals with healthy grippy metal pins makes the Coker a different
beast.

Plastic pedals are also no fun if there is even just a little bit of
dampness out.

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