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26" Muni - Nimbus Vs Yuni?

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
23 November 2005
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28 November 2005
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Terry17
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  1. Hi.

    I'm new to unicycling but ready to try my hand at a muni. I'm right at
    the 150 lbs the muni is rated for, and am wondering if I can trust the
    Nimbus 26" to not collapse after repeated drops of 10 inches, or if I
    should go for the higher rated Yuni (12' at 170 lbs). Anyone have any
    experience with either muni? I don't mind spending the extra $$ for
    the Yuni, but if the Nimbus is a solid machine it's silly to spend the
    bucks. I don't ever expect to go extreme (ie, nothing over 2 feet).
    Also, I'm curious as to why the Yuni is rated for higher drops yet it
    has a 22mm diameter seatpost instead of the 25.4mm. Any thoughts?

    Thanks,
    -Terry

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  2. Well I have 26" Nimbus MUni and it has worked almost perfectly. Besides
    when I dropped little over 2 feet with it and the crank bended.
    Now I have repaired the crank and I´m still using it for even little
    dropping, but for heavy jumps it isn´t the right uni.

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  3. Terry17 said:

    Hi.

    I'm new to unicycling but ready to try my hand at a muni. I'm right at
    the 150 lbs the muni is rated for, and am wondering if I can trust the
    Nimbus 26" to not collapse after repeated drops of 10 inches, or if I
    should go for the higher rated Yuni (12' at 170 lbs). Anyone have any
    experience with either muni? I don't mind spending the extra $$ for
    the Yuni, but if the Nimbus is a solid machine it's silly to spend the
    bucks. I don't ever expect to go extreme (ie, nothing over 2 feet).
    Also, I'm curious as to why the Yuni is rated for higher drops yet it
    has a 22mm diameter seatpost instead of the 25.4mm. Any thoughts?

    Thanks,
    -Terry

    The seatpost has very little or nothing to do with strengh at all. The
    hub/cranks/rim is where you need strengh for drops.

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  4. I think it all depends on the drop, the landind, etc.

    I have a friend who did a 5 1/2 foot drop/crash landing on the nimbus,
    and only bent the hub (bad, but I guess it didn't break)

    How does UDC determine the drop height range? How accurate is it?

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  5. I've had a Nimbus II 26x3" for just over a year and I'm very happy with
    it. My riding style is more cross-country than big drops, but some of
    my usual routes are very stoney with a few small drops (probably no
    higher than 18" though). It's not given me any trouble - the only
    annoying thing is the nuts on Kris Holm style saddles are a joke but I
    just replaced those with normal nylok nuts and problem gone (some
    people use lock washers under the original nuts or just stick them in
    place with loctite). One other thing I changed was the pedals, but
    they come with better ones as standard now.

    If you're not planning on big drops then I'd recommend it - otherwise
    look at something with a splined hub.

    I can't comment on the Yuni - I don't think they're available outside
    the USA.

    Rob

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  6. Hey, thanks for all the advice. I will definitely take a close look at
    those KH saddle nuts. I think if I did any drops over 18 inches I'd
    bend something more than my hub, and it would probably involve quite a
    bit of pain.... I think I'm too old to EVER need a splined hub (after
    a 5 1/2 foot drop I'd need an ambulance!!) I'm just looking for a muni
    I can ride without worrying about replacing parts.

    -Terry

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  7. Lol, now you see people always say that about taking big drops when they
    start out, before you know it you'll be launching off the top of 'phone
    boxes. I've had the Nimbus 24" Muni for three years, back from when the
    hub was much weaker. I ripped the end off the hub after about a year, I
    never did anything that extreme but i did hop alot of stuff up to 2ft.
    The current hub is much better, i think you can buy the nimbus with
    confidence that it will see you through for the type of riding you have
    described, just rolling off 18" drops is unlikely to damage the hub,
    even in the long run. Can't comment on the Yuni i'm afraid, wrong side
    of the pond.

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    Dave

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  8. The Nimbus frame is wide and hits your shins when standing up and
    jumping, but if you have leg armor it should be ok. I recommend the
    Yuni because it looks stronger and better over all.

    --
    carsonpalooza

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    That site is making me drool.
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  9. kington99 said:

    before you know it you'll be launching off the top of 'phone boxes. I've
    had the Nimbus 24" Muni for three years, back from when the hub was
    much weaker. I ripped the end off the hub after about a year

    I've got no intention of riding off huge drops - can't see the point
    really - but I do ride mostly on very rocky trails (so hundreds of 6-8"
    drops really) and don't worry about going off steps of up to 2 feet,
    although most of them are only 12 to 18". I think mine is probably new
    enough to have the stronger hub though, so that might count for
    something. I'm not a particularly violent rider, but I would be afraid
    of damaging the rim of a smaller-tyred cross-country unicycle on the
    rocks round here. The Nimbus 26x3" is an excellent machine for where
    and how I usually ride. If I break the hub I'd upgrade to a splined
    one, but so far it's looking pretty well matched to my riding style.
    If I was "jumping off phone boxes" I'd have bought a different muni
    (and probably have broken my back by now). It all depends on how you
    ride, but the Nimbus is taking more than I expected - I'm very
    impressed.

    I don't have any problems with the frame hitting my legs - in fact I
    reckon the wide crown is a good thing because it gives a decent amount
    of tyre clearance. But I am quite tall and don't do a lot of hopping.

    I would think people who are into big drops and loads of hopping
    wouldn't be looking at a 26" anyway though.

    Rob

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  10. I don't think pure drop heights in muni mean very much. Anyone who's
    ridden muni trails knows that even a small 4" drop with an uphill
    landing can be qute a rough landing. I do do 6+' drops during muni
    rides, but I think that fast singletrack and the occasional missed drop
    is mroe of what stresses equipment. The thing about big drops is you
    know they're there and can carefully pick your line for minimum stress.
    In fast muni, you don't get as many choices and sometimes have to just
    brutishly pedal to make it over a line. I believe that this leads to
    many stresses on both the body and the equipment.

    I ride a 24" Yuni frame and don't mind it. I have taken it through
    hell, hitting it with hammers, standing on it, launching it down hills,
    floating it in streams, jumping on it, bashing it against rocks, and it
    only shows some dents and scratches, performing just as well as day 1.
    Part of this is because it's not particularly stiff. I can flex it
    enough to rub the tire on some climbs. Furthermore, with an hs-33, the
    tubes visibly twist with heavy braking. In spite of all this, it's a
    dirt cheap, excellent frame, good for riders of all levels and styles.
    The same does not apply to the Nimbus II. This is a decent frame for
    getting into muni or trials, but the crown is just a crime against
    unicycling. The Yuni frame is enough of a knee-basher, the Nimbus two
    is just excessive. Go for the Yuni, without a doubt. If you plan to
    continue with muni at all (which you will), you will thank yourself.

    You should seriously consider the 24" wheel. There are reasons 95% of
    the muni riders out there are on them. Versatility, maneuverability,
    and weight come to mind.

    --
    gerblefranklin

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

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    there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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  11. At this point I plan on doing mostly cross country, which is why I was
    looking at the 26". If I start feeling fiesty one day and decide I
    must start doing high drops (and test my dental plan!), is it possible
    to put a 24" wheel on the 26" frame..... or is there something
    inherently wrong, dangerous, contrary to gravitational physics, or just
    plain stupid about that?

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  12. Yep, you can do that fine.

    The knee knocking thing mostly only happens to short people.

    It's fine to put a 24" wheel on a 26" frame, the frame size makes
    hardly any difference. If you start wanting to do big drops or trials
    on your muni, you'll probably want to upgrade the wheel anyway.

    I've had a chance to ride trails on 24"x3, 26"x3" as well as my normal
    26"x2.6" and to be honest, it doesn't make much difference on most
    trails until you start doing big drops (24" better) or wanting to ride
    really fast (26" better). You'll be happy with the 26".

    Joe

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  13. Terry17 said:

    is it possible to put a 24" wheel on the 26" frame..... or is there
    something inherently wrong, dangerous, contrary to gravitational
    physics, or just plain stupid about that?

    No that would work fine - it would just look a bit less tidy with an
    extra inch of clearance above the tyre. Some people don't like the
    Nimbus II frame because they hit their knees on the wide crown, but
    I've never had a problem with mine. It could be that it's annoying if
    you're a shorter rider or do a lot of hopping, but my knees have never
    hit the frame even when standing up riding up steep hills. If you're
    planning to ride mainly cross-country it should be fine. The other
    option for fast cross-country is a 29er with a lighter tyre (some
    people even use a Coker), but I like the big 3" tyre on the rocky stuff
    round where I live.

    As for hub strength, mine seems to be strong enough for the riding I do
    (no problems after a year of use) and it sounds like your riding will
    be similar. Apparently the UDC chromoly hub that comes with the Nimbus
    was strengthened a bit just before I got mine, so I can't comment on
    the older ones. For heavy muni a splined hub (and probably a 24"
    wheel) would be advisable, but for xc/light muni the Nimbus holds up
    fine. I spent ages wondering whether I needed a splined hub before I
    bought my muni and decided I probably didn't - and I don't regret that
    decision.

    Rob

    Edit: Sorry, Joe has already answered most of that while I was
    typing...

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  14. Don't mean to threadjack, but I just had a look at the Yuni munis on the
    US UDC site and the frame looks identical to the Nimbus II... what's
    the difference? Is the crown just slightly narrower or something?
    It's hard to see in the pictures on the site. Perhaps it's just the
    extra 125-odd dollars missing from your wallet that provides the extra
    leg clearance 😉

    --
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