24'' muni with 170mm cranks

if your 13, you don't want 170's. I can barely ride with 165's, but you
might want them.

--
mornish

ivan said:

I believe in the Invisible Pink Unicorn.

mscalisi said:

wait...invisible AND pink?

Evan Byrne said:

Are you planing war against a iceberg or something?

aim: kiloornish
email: [email hidden]
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Quoted message said:

if your 13, you don't want 170's. I can barely ride with 165's, but you
might want them.

thanks do you ride a 24?

--
gordito8me
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no one else? this is kinda urgent because I'm going to the bike shop
tomorrow.

--
gordito8me
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gordito8me said:

thanks do you ride a 24?

I ride a trials.

when using friends 24s, I like 150's WAY more than 165's. 165's pedal
strike constantly, and they just feel too long. its more preferance
though.

--
mornish

ivan said:

I believe in the Invisible Pink Unicorn.

mscalisi said:

wait...invisible AND pink?

Evan Byrne said:

Are you planing war against a iceberg or something?

aim: kiloornish
email: [email hidden]
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Yeah I learnt to ride on the muni on my avatar with 172mm cranks. It
made riding a 20" like hell. Stick with 165's as a max. My dad's muni
has 150' and they are just perfect.

--
bcwheelriderguyhehehehehe

dudewithasock said:

Yeah, and they have more estrogen than me, too. Now *that* takes guts.

iridemymuni said:

hey evan i've got the same blue nipples as you !!!!!

tobbogonist said:

this may be off topic, but my trouser snake is called:
Conan: The Barbarian

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There aren't many choices out there that'll work with the Torker DX hub,
but my riding buddy has 175s on his DX. He does get more pedal strikes,
but he likes it for the extra torque on climbs. On descents, I'm not so
sure of the advantages--but he has a brake, too, that he uses when he's
heading downhill. When he bought the cranks, it was mostly to help on
uphills. I have 165s on my muni, and I'd take the extra torque anyday
over 150s, but my son likes the 150s on his. But he's 15, almost as
tall as me, but probably a good 60 pounds lighter than I am!

--
pkittle

*========
Peter Kittle
Chico, CA
========*
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I use 170's on my KH, and they're really good for extra leverage uphill
and down. In fact, my friends had 165's for a while, and believe it or
not, the 5mm actually was enough of a change to make it slightly more
difficult to ride. I'm 6', though, so YMMV.

--
subsonic87

Hmmm, so it turns out that MUniing in Indiana is tough, because there
aren't any mountains. I miss Oregon.
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Keep your 150s and get a brake. I've just gone from 165s to 150s on my
24" Muni and found I am making a lot more lines than before. The 150s
are easier to push over the top when you might stall with the 165s.
KH went to 150s on the 24s for a reason, I think he knows what he is
doing.

--
jrdugueod

"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right!"
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I've ridden more combinations of crank and wheel size than most. I went
through a craze of short cranks a few years back, and then through a
craze of long cranks. I've tried cranks from about 80 mm to 170 mm and
I have wheels from 20" to 36". I am about 170 cm tal (5'7"😉.

Long cranks make more difference going down hill than up. They give
you that extra bit of confidence that the uni won't run out of
control.

However, as you develop your style and technique, it will become less
important. I used to struggle up and down hills on a 26 with 150s that
I now ride on a 28 with 114s, and have ridden on the 28 with 110s and
even 102s.

Long cranks will give you more leverage, at the expense of a slower,
less smooth action. You gain torque but lose momentum. That's why the
advantage is greater on descents - you are trying to avoid momentum
building up. On an uphill, you can find yourself stalling at "top dead
centre" on long cranks.

--
Mikefule

If there's one thing I've learned, it's that most people don't.
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I've ridden 24x3 munis with 140, 150, 165 and 170 cranks, the 165 are my
favourties for very technical riding, the 150s didnt give me the
control i need for taking drops and rough ground. As for hill climbing,
the longer cranks can power you up short steep sections but on long
sections unless you are very fit you won't be able to grind your way up
in half crank revolutions, keeping spinning on shorter cranks will work
better.

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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What cranks fit on a DX hub? Ive never heard of any cranks other than
the stock DX cranks fitting on that hub.

--
maximus unius

Quoted message said:

Originally Posted by *Brian MacKenzie*
Have you tried rubbing your nipples with grease before twisting them so
tightly?

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jrdugueod said:

Keep your 150s and get a brake. I've just gone from 165s to 150s on my
24" Muni and found I am making a lot more lines than before. The 150s
are easier to push over the top when you might stall with the 165s.
KH went to 150s on the 24s for a reason, I think he knows what he is
doing.

The problem with that is that Kris Holm is probably twice as strong as
I am and a brake is completely out of the question price wise. I'm
thinking about switching over to 165's and seeing how that is. If I
don't like it I'll just switch back. Anybody know how much splined
cranks for the dx would cost? they don't have ones that would fit at
the bike shop.

--
gordito8me
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gordito8me said:

The problem with that is that Kris Holm is probably twice as strong as I
am and a brake is completely out of the question price wise. I'm
thinking about switching over to 165's and seeing how that is. If I
don't like it I'll just switch back. Anybody know how much splined
cranks for the dx would cost? they don't have ones that would fit at
the bike shop.

A set of cranks will cost more than a second hand set of brakes off
ebay, i just got a good set of Magura HS33s for £10.50

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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I must be really missing something because whenever I look at brakes,
the v-brakes are like 100$ and magura's are 150$.

--
gordito8me
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gordito8me said:

I must be really missing something because whenever I look at brakes,
the v-brakes are like 100$ and magura's are 150$.

you trying ebay?

--
iridemymuni

munipsycho said:

Just a bit of advice: never vomit while wearing a full-face helmet.

irvinegr said:

haha i just thaught it was funny the title is "3th movie"

pixystix6 said:

oo give him and intising lap dance while he rubs pasteries all over you

'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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gordito8me said:

I must be really missing something because whenever I look at brakes,
the v-brakes are like 100$ and magura's are 150$.

http://tinyurl.com/yhcqox

Brand new, latest model, all parts included, $30. Sure it's bound to go
up a little, but there's not even any bids on it yet.

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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oh thanks! do you know how much weight a brake adds? I'm thinking magura
but if you know post the weight of a v-brake too

--
gordito8me
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gordito8me said:

oh thanks! do you know how much weight a brake adds? I'm thinking magura
but if you know post the weight of a v-brake too

for a bike 460g, but you don't need the brake booster and you need to
replace the heavy evolution clamps so that will be a little less (and
you can sell these parts on ebay again and get a few $$ back), i've
never noticed the extra weight on my muni. V-brake would be lighter.
Does the frame you have have magura mounts on it?

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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yup. I'm still not sure if I want a brake. I'll keep muniing and see how
it goes. I'm also thinking if I stick with 150mm cranks then I'll get
stronger and then my problem will solve itself.

--
gordito8me
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