10 spd campag chain rings

[email hidden said:

"]Am replacing my 39/53 10 speed chain rings. Does anyone know if you
can use older 9 speed chain rings, or do you have to use chain rings
made specialy 10 speed ?

I've been browsing around on line and some are sold as being 8/9/10
speed compatible ?

Hello Sheldon, can you answer ?

I have been using (well...) a BBB 39T replacement over my prior chorus 10spd 42T and i reckon it shifted better than the 42T one. guess that doesnt really help your scenario tho.
from branfordbike.com...
"Campagnolo did not change their rings when they went from 8 to 9 speed, and only changed the outer ring when they went to 10spd.

Record, Chorus, Athena, Daytona and Centaur 8/9 and 10 speed inner rings are identical. Record 8/9 outer rings are identical to Chorus, Athena, Centaur and Daytona 8/9 except for the placement of the chain roll off pin.
The Record roll off pin is next to a bolt hole; Chorus, Athena, Centaur and Daytona has the roll off pin mid-way between two bolt holes.

Campagnolo changed their outer ring when they moved to 10 speed. It was milled .04 mm on the backside so it would sit closer to the inner ring to accomadate the narrower 10 speed chain."

if your on shimano i guess nothing will be compatible, knowing them 🙄

"flyingdutch" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Am replacing my 39/53 10 speed chain rings. Does anyone know if you
can use older 9 speed chain rings, or do you have to use chain rings
made specialy 10 speed ?

I've been browsing around on line and some are sold as being 8/9/10
speed compatible ?

Hello Sheldon, can you answer ?

I have been using (well...) a BBB 39T replacement over my prior chorus
10spd 42T and i reckon it shifted better than the 42T one. guess that
doesnt really help your scenario tho.
from branfordbike.com...
"Campagnolo did not change their rings when they went from 8 to 9
speed, and only changed the outer ring when they went to 10spd.

Record, Chorus, Athena, Daytona and Centaur 8/9 and 10 speed inner
rings are identical. Record 8/9 outer rings are identical to Chorus,
Athena, Centaur and Daytona 8/9 except for the placement of the chain
roll off pin.
The Record roll off pin is next to a bolt hole; Chorus, Athena, Centaur
and Daytona has the roll off pin mid-way between two bolt holes.

Campagnolo changed their outer ring when they moved to 10 speed. It was
milled .04 mm on the backside so it would sit closer to the inner ring
to accomadate the narrower 10 speed chain."

if your on shimano i guess nothing will be compatible, knowing them
🙄

--
flyingdutch

Do a googlegroups search on rec.bicycles.tech. The 9 speed big chainring
will work fine, but like dutchy said a proper 10 speed large chainring is
milled 0.4mm (not .04mm) on the backside to bring the chainrings closer
together. To be honest I'm not sure whether I've got a 10sp or 9sp big ring
on my chorus setup.

The only thing I don't like about campag is the front shifting from small to
big. Maybe mine needs a bit of tweaking but it takes two throws of the lever
to shift from small to big which is a bit annoying. It's nice to have all
the trim positions but I'd like to be able to shift in one go. Other campy
riders find the same thing?

Adam

adam said:

The only thing I don't like about campag is the front shifting from small to
big. Maybe mine needs a bit of tweaking but it takes two throws of the lever
to shift from small to big which is a bit annoying. It's nice to have all
the trim positions but I'd like to be able to shift in one go. Other campy
riders find the same thing?

Adam

strange... never realy thought of it like that 🙄
something related to being able to trim the FD (derailleur! nobody's trimmin me!) to avoid chainrub according to which rear sprocket youre on?

Could also be cos you have the option of using the same front ergo to operate a triple front mech/FD, which apparently Shimano cant (is that right?). I personally (dont think so anyway) dont have any problems going from small to big at the front, altho had many problems if changing from big to small (come to think of it the other way too! see last Kew RR 😠 ) under duress/racing! But then again Im running a long cage RD which probably odesnt take up the slack quickly enuff for racing going form big-to-small. sigh

We have some 135 Campagnolo compat. Gebhardt chainrings from Europe in our
relocation sale , $35 for inner ,$45 for outer work with 8/9/10. Email me
for more specifics
Steve
http://www.ideal1984.blogspot.com
www.idealcycles.com

adam said:

The only thing I don't like about campag is the front shifting from small to
big. Maybe mine needs a bit of tweaking but it takes two throws of the lever
to shift from small to big which is a bit annoying. It's nice to have all
the trim positions but I'd like to be able to shift in one go. Other campy
riders find the same thing?

Only when mine was misaligned. After the cable stretched I had it adjusted and I can pop it up in one trow.

till

adam said:

"flyingdutch" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Am replacing my 39/53 10 speed chain rings. Does anyone know if you
can use older 9 speed chain rings, or do you have to use chain rings
made specialy 10 speed ?

I've been browsing around on line and some are sold as being 8/9/10
speed compatible ?

Hello Sheldon, can you answer ?

I have been using (well...) a BBB 39T replacement over my prior chorus
10spd 42T and i reckon it shifted better than the 42T one. guess that
doesnt really help your scenario tho.
from branfordbike.com...
"Campagnolo did not change their rings when they went from 8 to 9
speed, and only changed the outer ring when they went to 10spd.

Record, Chorus, Athena, Daytona and Centaur 8/9 and 10 speed inner
rings are identical. Record 8/9 outer rings are identical to Chorus,
Athena, Centaur and Daytona 8/9 except for the placement of the chain
roll off pin.
The Record roll off pin is next to a bolt hole; Chorus, Athena, Centaur
and Daytona has the roll off pin mid-way between two bolt holes.

Campagnolo changed their outer ring when they moved to 10 speed. It was
milled .04 mm on the backside so it would sit closer to the inner ring
to accomadate the narrower 10 speed chain."

if your on shimano i guess nothing will be compatible, knowing them
🙄

--
flyingdutch

Do a googlegroups search on rec.bicycles.tech. The 9 speed big chainring
will work fine, but like dutchy said a proper 10 speed large chainring is
milled 0.4mm (not .04mm) on the backside to bring the chainrings closer
together. To be honest I'm not sure whether I've got a 10sp or 9sp big ring
on my chorus setup.

The only thing I don't like about campag is the front shifting from small to
big. Maybe mine needs a bit of tweaking but it takes two throws of the lever
to shift from small to big which is a bit annoying. It's nice to have all
the trim positions but I'd like to be able to shift in one go. Other campy
riders find the same thing?

Adam

No probs with going up with one throw, are you sure you are using the all the movement of the lever? If you stop half way, then I can imagine that you need two throws. Sort of like an old camera, with manual feed, either you forward the film with one big throw, or with several small throws.

Quoted message said:

Am replacing my 39/53 10 speed chain rings. Does anyone know if you
can use older 9 speed chain rings, or do you have to use chain rings
made specialy 10 speed ?

I've been browsing around on line and some are sold as being 8/9/10
speed compatible ?

Hello Sheldon, can you answer ?

Here's my canned reply to this Frequently Asked Question. It speaks of
9-speed, and Shimano but no reason it wouldn't also apply to 10-speed
and Campagnolo:

There is a lot of confusion about the compatibility of narrow 9-speed
chains with older cranksets. Shimano says you should replace the inner
chainring(s) with specially designated 9-speed ones, but then they're
all too eager to sell you stuff, whether you need it or not.

Shimano is also concerned about clueless users. The worst-case
scenario is that you will be riding along with the bike in its highest
gear (large front, small rear) and then for some bizarre reason shift
down in front before downshifting in the back. (There is no shift
pattern in which it is reasonable to shift in this sequence.) If you
_do_ shift this way, there's a small chance that the chain might
"skate" over the edges of the teeth for maybe half a turn.

In practice this "problem" almost never materializes. Many, many
cyclists are using 9-speed chains with older cranksets and having no
problems whatever.

My advice is to go ahead and upgrade your drivetrain, but leave the
crankset alone until you've tried it out with the new chain. Most
likely, you don't need to do anything to it.

All the best,

Sheldon

Claes said:

No probs with going up with one throw, are you sure you are using the all the movement of the lever? If you stop half way, then I can imagine that you need two throws. Sort of like an old camera, with manual feed, either you forward the film with one big throw, or with several small throws.

Yep all good now thanks, get it in one go. Now onto the next problem, and it's more a finesse thing, when practicing sprints from a long way out I sometimes need another gear and often I'll get 2 gears by mistake instead of one on the thumb shift. It requires a bit of a delicate touch, which is hard to do when you're standing in the drops going 100%. Any tips?

adam85 said:

Claes said:

No probs with going up with one throw, are you sure you are using the
all the movement of the lever? If you stop half way, then I can imagine
that you need two throws. Sort of like an old camera, with manual feed,
either you forward the film with one big throw, or with several small
throws.

Yep all good now thanks, get it in one go. Now onto the next problem,
and it's more a finesse thing, when practicing sprints from a long way
out I sometimes need another gear and often I'll get 2 gears by mistake
instead of one on the thumb shift. It requires a bit of a delicate
touch, which is hard to do when you're standing in the drops going
100%. Any tips?

Replace with Shimano groupset?

Carl Brewer said:

adam85 said:

Claes said:

No probs with going up with one throw, are you sure you are using the
all the movement of the lever? If you stop half way, then I can imagine
that you need two throws. Sort of like an old camera, with manual feed,
either you forward the film with one big throw, or with several small
throws.

Yep all good now thanks, get it in one go. Now onto the next problem,
and it's more a finesse thing, when practicing sprints from a long way
out I sometimes need another gear and often I'll get 2 gears by mistake
instead of one on the thumb shift. It requires a bit of a delicate
touch, which is hard to do when you're standing in the drops going
100%. Any tips?

Replace with Shimano groupset?

Or get a cassette that starts with a bigger cog ie a 13. If you've got
a cog you don't need when you're sprinting then you probably don't need
it. Maybe in a Tour stage through the Alps perhaps.

Bruce.

Not too embarrassed to admit I'm not strong enough to make use of a 12
let alone an 11 cog.

quote=''Carl Brewer said:

adam85 said:

Claes said:

No probs with going up with one throw, are you sure you are using the
all the movement of the lever? If you stop half way, then I can imagine
that you need two throws. Sort of like an old camera, with manual feed,
either you forward the film with one big throw, or with several small
throws.

Yep all good now thanks, get it in one go. Now onto the next problem,
and it's more a finesse thing, when practicing sprints from a long way
out I sometimes need another gear and often I'll get 2 gears by mistake
instead of one on the thumb shift. It requires a bit of a delicate
touch, which is hard to do when you're standing in the drops going
100%. Any tips?

Replace with Shimano groupset?

Or get a cassette that starts with a bigger cog ie a 13. If you've got
a cog you don't need when you're sprinting then you probably don't need
it. Maybe in a Tour stage through the Alps perhaps.

Bruce.

Not too embarrassed to admit I'm not strong enough to make use of a 12
let alone an 11 cog.[/QUOTE]

The 12 is nice for the descents though Bruce! Anyway I'm sure it's just practice, the shifters have loosened up a fair bit so it's more sensitive. Robbie McEwen etc seem to do ok with them!