I have an Orange P7 XT which has a 1" threadless fork tube. Increasing age dictates I sit with a more upright posture but I don't want to buy a new bike, I would simply like to raise the handlebars.
However, 1" is very out of date and there seems to be no supplies in this size. I already use riser bars and a 120mm 40º stem but that still leaves me too low. One option seems to be shimming the 1" to 1-1/8th which allows to use a stem riser. My only concern is one of safety as I have heard that shimming can be unsafe.
Any comments/suggestions greatly appreciated. -- Chris
However, 1" is very out of date and there seems to be no supplies in this size. I already use riser bars and a 120mm 40? stem but that still leaves me too low. One option seems to be shimming the 1" to 1-1/8th which allows to use a stem riser. My only concern is one of safety as I have heard that shimming can be unsafe.
I've have a great lack of confidence in any such solution. It's still possible to get 1" rigid forks cheaply (Kona Project Ones maybe?), which you could then leave at the right height.
If you want a sus fork, then this might get expensive. If you only want a little more rise then how about some DH riser bars which a big rise on them?
I have an Orange P7 XT which has a 1" threadless fork tube. Increasing age dictates I sit with a more upright posture but I don't want to buy a new bike, I would simply like to raise the handlebars.
However, 1" is very out of date and there seems to be no supplies in this size. I already use riser bars and a 120mm 40º stem but that still leaves me too low. One option seems to be shimming the 1" to 1-1/8th which allows to use a stem riser. My only concern is one of safety as I have heard that shimming can be unsafe.
I don't see what's dangerous about shimming a stem raiser. It's virtually standard practice to use a 1 1/8" stem via a shim with 1" threadless forks now. Reputable stem manufacturers supply their stems with shims as standard. How is the principle different for a raiser?
However, 1" is very out of date and there seems to be no supplies in this size. I already use riser bars and a 120mm 40? stem but that still leaves me too low. One option seems to be shimming the 1" to 1-1/8th which allows to use a stem riser. My only concern is one of safety as I have heard that shimming can be unsafe.
A properly-sized shim should do the job, but how about a 1"-1" quill-to-ahead converter? The inner diameter of your steerer is likely to be 7/8", just like a threaded steerer. That would gain you an extra couple of inches with your current bar and stem, and no shims.
Quoted message said:
I've have a great lack of confidence in any such solution. It's still possible to get 1" rigid forks cheaply (Kona Project Ones maybe?), which you could then leave at the right height.
I don't think Project Twos have been made with a 1" steerer for 26" wheels for quite some time - a dozen years or so. The recent 1" steerer model was 700c. There is a Tange-branded fork on the market that would probably do the job. Another option would be to look for an old Tange/Bontrager Switchblade and slot in a long custom steerer.
A properly-sized shim should do the job, but how about a 1"-1" quill-to-ahead converter? The inner diameter of your steerer is likely to be 7/8", just like a threaded steerer. That would gain you an extra couple of inches with your current bar and stem, and no shims.
Sounds good for a steel steerer. Nice and adjustable as well.
In message <[email hidden]>, James Thomson <[email hidden]> writes
Quoted message said:
how about a 1"-1" quill-to-ahead converter? The inner diameter of your steerer is likely to be 7/8", just like a threaded steerer. That would gain you an extra couple of inches with your current bar and stem, and no shims.
You're right - the internal dia. is 7/8". But it already has an A-Head stem, so how does the quill conversion allow me to tighten down on to the (Richie) headset bearings?
In message <[email hidden]>, James Thomson <[email hidden]> writes
Quoted message said:
how about a 1"-1" quill-to-ahead converter? The inner diameter of your steerer is likely to be 7/8", just like a threaded steerer. That would gain you an extra couple of inches with your current bar and stem, and no shims.
You're right - the internal dia. is 7/8". But it already has an A-Head stem, so how does the quill conversion allow me to tighten down on to the (Richie) headset bearings?
How about spacers under the stem as usual, but using the quill adapter to press down on them?
I have an Orange P7 XT which has a 1" threadless fork tube. Increasing age dictates I sit with a more upright posture but I don't want to buy a new bike, I would simply like to raise the handlebars.
However, 1" is very out of date and there seems to be no supplies in this size. I already use riser bars and a 120mm 40º stem but that still leaves me too low. One option seems to be shimming the 1" to 1-1/8th which allows to use a stem riser. My only concern is one of safety as I have heard that shimming can be unsafe.
You're right - the internal dia. is 7/8". But it already has an A-Head stem, so how does the quill conversion allow me to tighten down on to the (Richie) headset bearings?
Am I missing something here???
Preload it by hand. Use a deep spacer to span the junction between the quill adapter and the steerer. Press down firmly on the top of the quill adapter, loading the stack of spacers, then tighten the wedge bolt of the quill to hold everything in place. Easy to do, and a headset wants minimal preload. There are other methods, but that's the one I'd choose.
You're right - the internal dia. is 7/8". But it already has an A-Head stem, so how does the quill conversion allow me to tighten down on to the (Richie) headset bearings?
Am I missing something here???
Preload it by hand. Use a deep spacer to span the junction between the quill adapter and the steerer. Press down firmly on the top of the quill adapter, loading the stack of spacers, then tighten the wedge bolt of the quill to hold everything in place. Easy to do, and a headset wants minimal preload. There are other methods, but that's the one I'd choose.
Here's one such method http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless but I notice Sheldon says he doesn't recommend it for 1" steerers. That might be just because you won't find a seatpost collar the right size. I think one poster has used a second stem to do the same thing.
but I notice Sheldon says he doesn't recommend it for 1" steerers. That might be just because you won't find a seatpost collar the right size.
I suspect it's not because of a lack of a suitable clamp - something like a clamp-on 1" canti cable hanger will do in a pinch. A 1" aluminium steerer is quite flexible, and probably shouldn't be extended to the degree we're discussing. A steel steerer used without spacers (which isn't quite what I was suggesting to Chris) will rust.
I once bought a long Columbus Metax stainless steerer to use in a Tange Switchblade fork to circumvent the rusting problem, but my plans changed and I sold the fork.
Ordered the shim on-line yesterday, together with a 40deg/135mm stem, they arrived today (thanks Wiggle), fitted them = my bike fits me exactly as I wanted.
