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1/8" singlespeed question:

Started by Paul Hobson · · Last activity · 27 posts · 835 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
9 August 2005
Last activity
20 August 2005
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Paul Hobson
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27
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  1. Sheldon Brown said:

    If you have a straight drive train, without any kludgy spring loaded chain
    tensioners, I see no problem with using HG sprockets.

    Sheldon, you're dead wrong on this one. Right on most everything else. HG
    sprockets will throw the chain unless the chainline is absolutely perfect,
    something home-brewers often neglect. Seen it happen many times. With Sram
    sprockets, fwiw.

    An old UG cassette broken apart is a a better bet if you need those odd
    sizes. The teeth aren't ramped, just twisted a bit, which matters little.

  2. For some reason this never showed up in News.individual.net, but it did
    in Google, so I'm replying via Google

    Vee said:
    Chalo said:

    Vee wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    3 questions:
    1. Semantically, is "sprocket" interchangeable with "cog"? I ask
    because cassettets have cogs, but some people call the similarly
    splined things on coaster brake hubs "sprockets". Also, BMXers refer
    to chainrings/chainwheels as "sprockets".

    For this and many other terminology questions, you can find the answer
    in my Bicycle Glossary http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary

    Herewith the relevant entries:
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Cog

    Popular term for a rear sprocket. Sometimes incorrectly used as a
    synonym for cluster, which is actually a group of cogs.
    Originally, "cog" referred to just a single tooth on a "cog wheel."
    Then "cog wheel" was shortened by popular usage to "cog."
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Sprocket

    A toothed wheel or gear that is part of a chain drive.
    The front sprockets are also commonly called chainwheels or chainrings.
    The term "sprocket" is perfectly correct to refer to either front or
    rear, but use most adult cyclists use this term mainly to refer to the
    rear sprockets. The use of "sprocket" to refer specifically to a
    chainwheel is mainly confined to BMX usage.

    The rear sprockets individually are also commonly called cogs or gears;
    as a group they are referred to as a block, cassette, cluster or
    freewheel.
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Many folks on the internet prefer "cog" because it's easier to type,
    but I'm a fast typist, and prefer to use the slightly more correct
    "sprocket."

    Quoted message said:

    2. Couldn't a sprocket/cog simply be manufactured so that it's thicker
    in the center?

    Yes, and these are commonly available. We have them from Chris King
    and Surly:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/singlespeed.html#sprockets

    Quoted message said:

    3. Does a larger diameter sprocket/cog transmit more torque to the hub?

    Larger rear sprockets transmit more torque to the hub. The torque is
    directly proportional to the size.

    Quoted message said:

    Is that your point about longevity?

    Larger sprockets also last longer, because the wear is shared among
    more teeth. Also, for the same gear ratio, a larger rear sprocket will
    require a larger front sprocket. Larger front sprockets put less
    tension on the chain, further increasing chain life.

    Sheldon "One Is Often Enough" Brown
    Newtonville, Massachusetts
    +-------------------------------------+
    | Natural laws have no pity. |
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +-------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  3. Vee said:


    Chalo said:


    Vee said:


    Why do 1/8" fixed and SS parts continue to exist? Skinny is good.

    For starters, you can get 1/8" chains for five bucks.

    Sure, but as I mentioned before, you don't get much chain for $5. My
    experience is that cheapo KMC chains wear rapidly in bad weather (they
    last only hundreds, not thousands, of miles).

    I don't notice my 1/8" chains wearing any faster than my 3/32
    bushingless chains. My impression has been that the narrower ones wear
    faster, but I admit I don't keep track of mileage on my bikes. I try
    not to ride in the worst of all possible weather, but I do ride in
    Seattle year-round.

    An 8-speed chain would have to last 3 to 4 times as long to represent
    the same cost per mile. So there is certainly a difference in cost,
    but it's obviously not a big deal if you have some reason to prefer the
    narrower chain.

    Quoted message said:

    3 questions:
    1. Semantically, is "sprocket" interchangeable with "cog"?

    Technically, no. But Sheldon did a fine job answering this one.

    Quoted message said:

    2. Couldn't a sprocket/cog simply be manufactured so that it's thicker
    in the center?

    Sure, if cost is no object. A typical coaster brake sprocket made of
    steel plate retails for $4. Compare the kind you describe from Surly
    and Chris King at $25 to $50.

    Again, it's not a prohibitive difference, but remember that lots of the
    bikes using 1/8" chains cost less than $100 altogether.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you were a freestyle rider inclined to bash your chainring against
    things (inadvertently or on purpose), you might find that 1/8" or even
    3/16" sprocket teeth tolerate such treatment better than any 3/32"
    chainring.

    More importantly, the 1/8" and 3/16" (and don't forget the Sharp 1/4"😉
    BMX chains are harder to grind through. A 3/32" chain will give up
    after a single encounter with a concrete ledge.

    That's true, but the chain's inner width is unrelated to its sideplate
    thickness. If 3/32" sprocket teeth were sturdy enough not to fold over
    under such treatment, then extra-heavy 3/32" chains might be the
    remedy.

    Quoted message said:

    I still say the wider $5 ones stink for non-BMX applications. I didn't
    think about coaster brake bikes, but it's the uncommon rider who puts
    significant miles on such a bike.

    A large percentage of gearhub-equipped bikes get a lot of use--
    probably a higher percentage of them than of derailleur bikes.
    Although most of the sprockets on them are compatible with 3/32"
    chains, not all of them are.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    1/8" single-speed chains have been available and freely interchangeable
    for generations. Why accomodate traditional components like that to a
    chain size (8 speed) that wasn't available 20 years ago and might be
    obsolete in another 10?

    More specifically, then, why do track/fixed/SS bikes still use 1/8"
    parts when it just means more weight?

    Longer service life, maybe? Perhaps just the inertia of tradition.

    Quoted message said:

    And do you really think 15-24 speed bikes will cease to exist in 10 years?

    No. But just as I can't go into any old bike shop and find a 5-speed
    chain anymore, there will more than likely come a day when the chain of
    first resort is 12-speed compatible or some such thing, and won't fit
    on a 3/32" plate sprocket. But there will still be 1/8" chains around,
    and they'll cost the equivalent of five bucks.

    Chalo Colina

  4. Maxo, I guess my chainline is perfect - I've got a 17t from an LX
    casette on the back of a single with ~500 miles on it. The only time I
    threw a chain is when I hit a locg hard enough to bend the
    chainring.....

  5. maxo said:

    Sheldon, you're dead wrong on this one. Right on most everything else. HG
    sprockets will throw the chain unless the chainline is absolutely perfect,
    something home-brewers often neglect. Seen it happen many times. With Sram
    sprockets, fwiw.

    If it doesn't throw the chain[1] on a derailer-geared bike with the
    spring-loaded chain tension that entails and the crappy chainline, why on
    earth would it do so on a single speed/fixie?

    Jasper

    [1] And if people were regularly ghost-shifting or, worse, skating the
    chain along the cog, you'd be hearing protests.

  6. "Jasper Janssen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    maxo said:

    Sheldon, you're dead wrong on this one. Right on most everything else. HG
    sprockets will throw the chain unless the chainline is absolutely


    perfect,

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    something home-brewers often neglect. Seen it happen many times. With


    Sram

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    sprockets, fwiw.

    If it doesn't throw the chain[1] on a derailer-geared bike with the
    spring-loaded chain tension that entails and the crappy chainline, why on
    earth would it do so on a single speed/fixie?

    Because the bottom half of the chain on a fixie will have NO* tension
    (unless you're backpedalling), which is far less that that obtained by a
    spring-loaded derailleur. That's why. If you get a really rough but high
    cadance on your track bike, even with a perfect chainline you can see the
    chain start to oscillate and try to jump off.....
    Gemma
    * by 'no' tension that excludes the tension in the chain brought about by
    the weight of the chain alone, but that is negligible

  7. Gemma_k said:

    Because the bottom half of the chain on a fixie will have NO* tension
    (unless you're backpedalling), which is far less that that obtained by a
    spring-loaded derailleur. That's why. If you get a really rough but high
    cadance on your track bike, even with a perfect chainline you can see the
    chain start to oscillate and try to jump off.....

    It won't have much, no, but if your setup is right it will have some in
    the zero position. More importantly, even with bad chainline and derailer
    cogs, it'll take a certain amount of stretching to get the chain off the
    cog which chains don't do and (again, if your chain tension is okay) that
    should be enough not to allow it off. OTOH, you're right that it's not
    optimal. I've seen people riding around on singlespeed coaster brakes with
    crappy chainline and the bottom half of the chainline dangling as much as
    5 cm, but then that was rusted 1/8" chain with full-tooth cogs back and
    front.

    Jasper

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