Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Shoe and pedal question

Started by galaxycycle120 · · Last activity · 11 posts · 1,295 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 August 2004
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27 August 2004
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galaxycycle120
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  1. Hi Everyone,

    I have a couple of questions.

    Right now, my bike has those kind of pedals with the straps that go over my regular running shoes. I don't like those pedals, also my foot keeps going numb by the time I am about 15-20 miles.

    Will getting bike shoes and different pedals fix the numb foot problem?

    Also, what kind of pedals are the easiest to get the bike shoe in and out of? I was reading on another thread that mountain bike ones are easiest because they have two sides - and that is what I wanted to get, but I was wondering more specifically what kind.

    And finally, how do you get the shoe in and out of the pedals - does it slide in from the slide or the front or do you step on the pedal or what?

    Thanks so much!

  2. Hello

    Lots of questions here... I'll try my best to address them all. Firstly, foot numbness or pain happens for a lot of different reasons, but in a nutshell, results from the force of the pedal underfoot causing excessive pressure or stress on the sole in a weird or unbalanced way. One of the nice characteristics of most cycling shoes is that they aim for stiffness in the sole -- a stiff enough sole, it's figured, more evenly directs pedaling force along the bottom of the foot and resists pain-causing stresses. Running shoes, by contrast, are pretty soft-soled, and there's no solid contact between your shoe and the pedal. It's likely putting a lot of funny strain on you.

    That said, pain and numbess plague many riders, including those spending hundreds on high-tech shoes and pedals. One could guess that's because good pedal and shoe systems encourage harder riding, but that's only half of it. The only way to really prevent discomfort, in my opinion, is by finding the perfect (and fairly stiff) shoe -- it's all about fit.

    Your next question gets pretty subjective -- people love their favorite pedal types like fisherman love a certain lure, or car enthusiasts worship certain makes. Ease of entry/release is a good starting point for comparisons, though let's be clear: you've already gotten some bum advice. Most mountain pedals are dual-sided, yes, but so are many road pedals. There's nothing stopping manufacturers from building all road pedals with two functioning sides, actually; it's just that with road stuff, an emphasis tends to be put on elegant designs with minimal weight.

    One basic, relatively inexpensive format that's employed in many, many dual-sided pedals (both road, mountain, and general-purpose) is Shimano's SPD; you could walk into any bike shop and buy a pair of ultra-simple SPD pedals for very little. Anyone looking to help you save a buck will point you towards them. They're fine for many people, and make good general use or trail pedals, but I wouldn't recommend them to you -- mostly because you're concerned with foot pain, and inexpensive SPDs ain't too ergonomic. They're small, and they use a primitive, restrictive locking mechanism. Everyone's different, and they might be your thing, but I just can't see most SPD pedals as an ergonomic upgrade over sneakers and platform pedals.

    I've opened a can of worms, though, because that leaves you to consider pedals that many folks wouldn't suggest to a beginner... not because they're hard to use, but because they're pricier, or simply because they're cool. Screw that. Figure out how much you'd like to pay, and get the rockin'est pedals you can. We can talk more about choices later; this answer is already too long.

    Last answer. Getting in and out depends on the pedal system you choose. Nearly all feature an entry which is a variation on stepping down. Some, like the newer Shimano SPD-SL series and the Look models they're based on, are a bit like a ski binding -- you set your toe in, and pop the heel down (nearly all pedals of this style are single-sided road models, FYI). Others, like Speedplay (my personal favorite -- dual-sided and light), you simply step on.

    For every model I can think of, exit is the same: you turn your heel, usually outward.

    Ok, this is a big subject; I can write more and more and more about different features, pitfalls, benefits, and so on, but I'm friggin' sleepy. Hope this was a good start. Take care...

  3. I use the same pedal/toe clip/running shoe system that you're using. What I did for numbing feet that worked was loosen my shoe laces.🙂

    Right now I'm talking to the FFO (Family Financial Officer) about "real bike" shoes and of course along with those I'll need "real bike" pedals, too.😉

  4. Check out speedplay pedals. They are light, easy to use, two sided, and have a good float which will allow you to move youre feet around slighly. just pop your heel out a few inches and youre out. very easy to use!

  5. nwellsv said:

    Check out speedplay pedals. They are light, easy to use, two sided, and have a good float which will allow you to move youre feet around slighly. just pop your heel out a few inches and youre out. very easy to use!


    ... and they are also very expensive... I went for spd-sl's as a compromise, but Christmas is coming ( at the end of 2006 or so!)

    Speedplays and some Look have a float; important in some cases of abnormal knees as far as I know.

  6. jon_stewart said:

    ... and they are also very expensive... I went for spd-sl's as a compromise, but Christmas is coming ( at the end of 2006 or so!)

    Speedplays and some Look have a float; important in some cases of abnormal knees as far as I know.


    The Speedplay X3 pedal can be found for about $89, and it's excellent.

    Nearly all pedal systems offer some degree of float; float, to clarify, is any controlled range of motion the foot is allowed while clipped in. In most cases, it's rotational float; being able to twist your foot a bit in either direction takes stress off the knees -- something beneficial for most riders, not just those with abnormal knees.

    Look float is similar to SPD-SL float; depending on the model you buy, it's anywhere from 3 or 4 degrees of rotation to 10-ish. In both cases, it's tensioned. One of the great perks of Speedplay pedals is that they not only offer a massive range of float (nearly limitless with X-series models; up to 15 degrees with the Zero series), but it's also untensioned -- you're not working against a spring. Feeeeeeels good.

  7. Another thing that should be mentioned is that mountain bike style clipless pedals have a recessed cleat. That is the cleat sits in a recess in the sole of the shoe rather than bolting directly to the bottom of the shoe.

    What this means is that when you're off the bike, it's MUCH easier to walk around in mountain bike style shoes. Road shoes/pedals usually have a bigger contact area and are stiffer, so they're more efficient when you're on the bike. But if you're not concerned about optimal power output and you like to go places on your bike and actually get-off and walk around (without changing your shoes) mountain bike style shoes/pedals are probably your best bet. Unless you don't mind walking around like penguin.

  8. lokstah said:

    The Speedplay X3 pedal can be found for about $89, and it's excellent.

    Nearly all pedal systems offer some degree of float; float, to clarify, is any controlled range of motion the foot is allowed while clipped in. In most cases, it's rotational float; being able to twist your foot a bit in either direction takes stress off the knees -- something beneficial for most riders, not just those with abnormal knees.

    Look float is similar to SPD-SL float; depending on the model you buy, it's anywhere from 3 or 4 degrees of rotation to 10-ish. In both cases, it's tensioned. One of the great perks of Speedplay pedals is that they not only offer a massive range of float (nearly limitless with X-series models; up to 15 degrees with the Zero series), but it's also untensioned -- you're not working against a spring. Feeeeeeels good.

    In UK Speedplay x3's are about £90.. whats that about $130. I suppose that you're not buying them every day (Maybe I shouldn't have bought Spd-SL's :eek:

    Thanks for the detailed info on what float means

  9. Thank you all for your posts, you were all very helpful. I have an old bike to use for getting around town/walking around so I'll see about maybe getting some of those $89 speedplay pedals for my road bike and some shoes for Christmas 🙂 .

  10. I just got back into road riding after a long time with a mountain bike. After buying my bike, I found that I couldn't justify the cost of new pedals to my wife. So, I currently use my SPD-compatible, dual sided mountain pedals with the new road bike. They look a little clunky, but they still work, they are small, and surprisingly, they are lighter than many models of road pedals. True, the SPDs aren't the most advanced cleat, but for around 25 bucks for these pedals (somewhere around there), they have held up well and will do until I can win the pedal debate....

  11. galaxycycle120 said:

    Thank you all for your posts, you were all very helpful. I have an old bike to use for getting around town/walking around so I'll see about maybe getting some of those $89 speedplay pedals for my road bike and some shoes for Christmas 🙂 .


    Good point from Meehs about walkability and road pedals -- Speedplays are particularly tough to walk on. Sounds like you've got that figured out though, Galaxycycle. It's nice having a road bike independently of a beater bike.

    Have fun!

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