HRM's

Racer said:

Anyone got a view on what is decent/reasonably priced to use whilst cycling?
Have read a lot about them but don't know which to use.

Run tech. 15 quid from Lidl.

...d

Racer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Anyone got a view on what is decent/reasonably priced to use whilst

cycling?

Quoted message said:

Have read a lot about them but don't know which to use.

Thanks

What's a HRM?

--
Vivian
-------
"We learned more from a three minute record than we ever learned in school".
No Surrender

Vivian said:

What's a HRM?

heart *bom* rate *bom* monitor *bom* *bom* *bom*

...d

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Vivian said:

What's a HRM?

heart *bom* rate *bom* monitor *bom* *bom* *bom*

..d

Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
you may be happy with a lower model.

--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

MSA said:

Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
you may be happy with a lower model.

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

--

Velvet

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
you may be happy with a lower model.

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
you may be happy with a lower model.

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

Just for info, I have my fork sensor mounted on the BACK wheel. On the
tube (can't remember what it's called) that runs from the seatpost bit
down to the rear axle? Is that the seat-stay, or is that the horizontal
one from the BB to the rear axle?

Anyway. Cos it's such a small frame, it works fine to the handlebar
mount from all teh way back there, though only from the same side.
Which is of slight concern, cos it means that if the sensor is ever
knocked by something into the spokes, the direction it has to face to
work (trailing backwards from the tube) means the spokes will drive it
further into them... rather than rubbing past it and pushing it away.

But since the primary reason for getting that particular HRM was so I
could use it on the turbo as well as out on the road, if that's where it
has to be to work on the back wheel then I'll just have to be careful
and check it before setting off etc.

Did get the cadence sensor too, since if I was logging speed/distance I
figured comparing a cadence graph coudl also be useful, especially since
it lets me see where I've pushed the bike up a hill ;-)

The power module thingywhatsit for it (sorry, but I'm ever so slightly
fuzzy aroudn the edges tonight!) looked very interesting but completely
OTT for me (as well as being much more money than I could even begin to
justify spending!). Maybe one day I'll set a goal to attain after which
I'll save up for it. My first 200km audax? or maybe I'd better make
that a 300 or 400...

--

Velvet

"Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

MSA wrote:

>
>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
>you may be happy with a lower model.
>
>

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

Just for info, I have my fork sensor mounted on the BACK wheel. On the
tube (can't remember what it's called) that runs from the seatpost bit
down to the rear axle? Is that the seat-stay, or is that the horizontal
one from the BB to the rear axle?

Anyway. Cos it's such a small frame, it works fine to the handlebar
mount from all teh way back there, though only from the same side.
Which is of slight concern, cos it means that if the sensor is ever
knocked by something into the spokes, the direction it has to face to
work (trailing backwards from the tube) means the spokes will drive it
further into them... rather than rubbing past it and pushing it away.

But since the primary reason for getting that particular HRM was so I
could use it on the turbo as well as out on the road, if that's where it
has to be to work on the back wheel then I'll just have to be careful
and check it before setting off etc.

You can up the power of the sender unit from it's current low setting to med
or high for use on the back wheel so you can mount it however you like. You
hanve to move a jumper in the sender unit - Instructions sre on the web - do
a google.

Russ

Russ said:

"Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

>MSA wrote:
>
>
>
>>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
>>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
>>you may be happy with a lower model.
>>
>>
>
>I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
>useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
>cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!
>
>

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

Just for info, I have my fork sensor mounted on the BACK wheel. On the
tube (can't remember what it's called) that runs from the seatpost bit
down to the rear axle? Is that the seat-stay, or is that the horizontal
one from the BB to the rear axle?

Anyway. Cos it's such a small frame, it works fine to the handlebar
mount from all teh way back there, though only from the same side.
Which is of slight concern, cos it means that if the sensor is ever
knocked by something into the spokes, the direction it has to face to
work (trailing backwards from the tube) means the spokes will drive it
further into them... rather than rubbing past it and pushing it away.

But since the primary reason for getting that particular HRM was so I
could use it on the turbo as well as out on the road, if that's where it
has to be to work on the back wheel then I'll just have to be careful
and check it before setting off etc.

You can up the power of the sender unit from it's current low setting to med
or high for use on the back wheel so you can mount it however you like. You
hanve to move a jumper in the sender unit - Instructions sre on the web - do
a google.

Russ

Ooh, I had no idea - thanks for that! I'm sure it only needs a very
tiny boost to work from the other side, given it works reliably from
it's current position - but I'd like to move it to avoid breaking
spokes/me if the worst does ever happen and it rotates into the wheel..

--

Velvet

Velvet wrote (but wrote wrongly) :

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>
>

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Actually, it's a 720 I have, not a 710. Not sure if it's just a later
model, or has other features the 710 doesn't. Might be worth checking.

--

Velvet

quote='Velvet'Russ said:

"Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

>MSA wrote:
>
>
>
>>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed with
>>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the S710,
>>you may be happy with a lower model.
>>
>>
>
>I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
>useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
>cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!
>
>

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

Just for info, I have my fork sensor mounted on the BACK wheel. On the
tube (can't remember what it's called) that runs from the seatpost bit
down to the rear axle? Is that the seat-stay, or is that the horizontal
one from the BB to the rear axle?

Anyway. Cos it's such a small frame, it works fine to the handlebar
mount from all teh way back there, though only from the same side.
Which is of slight concern, cos it means that if the sensor is ever
knocked by something into the spokes, the direction it has to face to
work (trailing backwards from the tube) means the spokes will drive it
further into them... rather than rubbing past it and pushing it away.

But since the primary reason for getting that particular HRM was so I
could use it on the turbo as well as out on the road, if that's where it
has to be to work on the back wheel then I'll just have to be careful
and check it before setting off etc.

You can up the power of the sender unit from it's current low setting to med
or high for use on the back wheel so you can mount it however you like. You
hanve to move a jumper in the sender unit - Instructions sre on the web - do
a google.

Russ

Ooh, I had no idea - thanks for that! I'm sure it only needs a very
tiny boost to work from the other side, given it works reliably from
it's current position - but I'd like to move it to avoid breaking
spokes/me if the worst does ever happen and it rotates into the wheel..

--

Velvet[/QUOTE]

Help me, google for what?

On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:49:05 +0100, "Racer" <[email hidden]> wrote
(more or less):

Quoted message said:

Anyone got a view on what is decent/reasonably priced to use whilst cycling?
Have read a lot about them but don't know which to use.

I'm using the combo bike-computer/HRM from Aldi, at £15.

EBC have got an own-brand one for the wrist at £39.99 that they've
just started selling, at a rate of knots.

I don't know the full list of features, but it's worth a look at their
web-site.

--
Cheers,
Euan
Gawnsoft: http://www.gawnsoft.co.sr
Symbian/Epoc wiki: http://html.dnsalias.net:1122
Smalltalk links (harvested from comp.lang.smalltalk) http://html.dnsalias.net/gawnsoft/smalltalk

daviddobedoe said:

Help me, google for what?

For the instructions on how to up the power of the distance sensor
transmitter, so it can be mounted on the back wheel of a bike rather
than the usual mounting point (front fork) for the Polar S720i HRM
(which has cycling compuytery stuff as well as the HRM stuff).

In my case, it'd be nice to mount it the other side of the rear wheel,
so that if it goes into the spokes, they push it back out rather than
further in.

I've googled, but though I found the references to the webpage in
question, it comes back with a 404 error. I've gleaned enough that it's
a jumper setting and to put it to high power you move it to the outside
of the jumpers, but to find out if that's enough info to do it, I'd have
to take my sensor off/apart etc.

--

Velvet

"daviddobedoe" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Velvet said:

Russ said:

"Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

>MSA wrote:
>
>
>>In article <[email hidden]>,
>>[email hidden] says...
>>
>>
>>>MSA wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed

with

Quoted message said:

>>>>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the

S710,

Quoted message said:

>>>>you may be happy with a lower model.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it.

VERY

Quoted message said:

>>>useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
>>>cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I

download

Quoted message said:

>>all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.
>>
>>
>
>Same here </aol> :-)
>
>Just for info, I have my fork sensor mounted on the BACK wheel. On

the

Quoted message said:

>tube (can't remember what it's called) that runs from the seatpost

bit

Quoted message said:

>down to the rear axle? Is that the seat-stay, or is that the

horizontal

Quoted message said:

>one from the BB to the rear axle?
>
>Anyway. Cos it's such a small frame, it works fine to the handlebar
>mount from all teh way back there, though only from the same side.
>Which is of slight concern, cos it means that if the sensor is ever
>knocked by something into the spokes, the direction it has to face

to

Quoted message said:

>work (trailing backwards from the tube) means the spokes will drive

it

Quoted message said:

>further into them... rather than rubbing past it and pushing it

away.

Quoted message said:

>
>But since the primary reason for getting that particular HRM was so

I

Quoted message said:

>could use it on the turbo as well as out on the road, if that's where

it

Quoted message said:

>has to be to work on the back wheel then I'll just have to be

careful

Quoted message said:

>and check it before setting off etc.

You can up the power of the sender unit from it's current low setting

to med

Quoted message said:

or high for use on the back wheel so you can mount it however you

like. You

Quoted message said:

hanve to move a jumper in the sender unit - Instructions sre on the

web - do

Quoted message said:

a google.

Russ

Ooh, I had no idea - thanks for that! I'm sure it only needs a very
tiny boost to work from the other side, given it works reliably from
it's current position - but I'd like to move it to avoid breaking
spokes/me if the worst does ever happen and it rotates into the
wheel..

--

Velvet

Help me, google for what?

Pah! Bloody lazy git I thought but it wasn't quite as easy as I thought it'd
be

jumper settings polar HRM speed sender produced this (after a bit of
reading) - and I knew what I was looking for

Open the sensor with two

Quoted message said:

screws that you might not immediately see. They are located in two holes in

the back part of the

Quoted message said:

sensor ( the hollowed out part). Make sure you have the correct Phillips

screwdriver since they are

Quoted message said:

very small and you don't wan't to start slipping thus damaging the heads.

When the screws come out you can pull the sensor apart, be careful with the

rubber seal, possibly

Quoted message said:

grease it again with silicon or such when remounting.

You will see a circuit board sticking out of the outer part. On one side

there is a jumper and

Quoted message said:

three pins. default the jumper is slid onto the inner pin, low setting. If

you move it outwards

Quoted message said:

over the two inner pins you have medium setting. Over the two pins closest

to the edge of the board

Quoted message said:

you have maximum transmission range.

If you carefully slide the whole circuit board out of the plastic you will

also find a battery.

However that seemed a bit, well like one of those dodgy bits of advice so,
IIRC the original info was on the forum of the australian polar site so
going there found me this
http://www.pursuit-performance.com.au/polar/html/local/faq/faq_speed_cadence.html

which can't be found on the main Polar site - how stupid is that!

Anyway
HTH

Russ

in message <[email hidden]>, Velvet

(') said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

MSA wrote:
>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed
>with
>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the
>S710, you may be happy with a lower model.

I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I
download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

[censored], I thought the Ergobrain was expensive!

OK, I'm in the market for instrumentation for my new bike, someone try
and and explain to me why its worth spending £207 + £35 for the speed
sensor + £35 for the cadence sensor = £277 total for a jumped-up
wireless cycle computer.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

'graveyards are full of indispensable people'

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Velvet

(') said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

>MSA wrote:
>>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed
>>with
>>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the
>>S710, you may be happy with a lower model.
>
>I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
>useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
>cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I
download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

[censored], I thought the Ergobrain was expensive!

OK, I'm in the market for instrumentation for my new bike, someone try
and and explain to me why its worth spending £207 + £35 for the speed
sensor + £35 for the cadence sensor = £277 total for a jumped-up
wireless cycle computer.

If you just want instrumentation then it's not - If you want a complete
training system to maximise performance from training smarter rather than
training harder then add £10 for sally edwards book explaining how to use it
then it's the best investment you'll ever make.

It comes with one speed sensor as standard IIRC.

Russ

Simon Brooke said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Velvet

(') said:

MSA said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

>MSA wrote:
>
>>Anything by Polar. If your serious you will only be disappointed
>>with
>>anything else (except maybe Ciclosport). I use and swear by the
>>S710, you may be happy with a lower model.
>
>I'll give the S710 a vote, too. That's what I use and love it. VERY
>useful is the downloading to PC thing, plus it has (if you get the
>cadence thing for it) all the functions of a bike computer too!

Yep! I use mine with the fork sender and a cadence sensor. I
download
all info via infra red. It's a superb piece of kit.

Same here </aol> :-)

[censored], I thought the Ergobrain was expensive!

OK, I'm in the market for instrumentation for my new bike, someone try
and and explain to me why its worth spending £207 + £35 for the speed
sensor + £35 for the cadence sensor = £277 total for a jumped-up
wireless cycle computer.

Cos I told myself that it was a reward for actually putting in the hours
each day in the run up to the London to Cambridge (and that if I was
doing it, I might as well do it properly and get the most use out of it
*during* rather than just *after*

And it meant I could give my mum my old HRM, in the hope it might spur
her on to get fitter (she had the same problems as the other thread
regarding with heart rate limits and gyms).

In my case it's VERY useful to see the graph over time (or distance, if
I prefer) of what my heart rate is doing, and compare with
speed/cadence/altitudes (and thus rate of climb etc). Plus, having had
a few instances where I've nearly feinted with suddenly very low heart
rates (considering I'd just climbed up a long hill) there was a bit of
concern as to what it was actually *doing* (the heart, not the monitor)
sometimes, and it meant I could look back and see, rather than fail to
remember to look *at the time*.

And Russ's right. It's a wonderful tool that will do me for years, in
conjunction with Sally's book, that makes the workouts on the turbo
interesting, and should see me continue to cycle throughout the nasty
winter that's already looming far too fast - simply because it adds
variety and interest to what I'd otherwise do on there. And he's also
right on the speed sensor. It comes with one by default - but you do
have to add the cadence sensor.

If you want *real* OTTness, have a look at adding the power option to it
(though you then don't use either the included speed sensor OR have to
buy the cadence sensor...)

Yes I might be a gadget cyclist, but I figure if that's what keeps me
going on the bike then I really don't care - it's been worth it's weight
so far in what it's allowed me to do in the way of preparation - because
if nothing else it stops me from overdoing it whilst unfit and trying to
keep up with much much fitter cyclists (and thus inevitably leading to
problems). I very much doubt that without it I would have gone from a
personal best of 34 miles last year to 58 this year, nor would I have
the confidence to now be looking (if I can get the time with work being
so busy!) to get fit enough to try my first 102km randonee at the end of
sept!

--

Velvet

in message <[email hidden]>, Velvet

(') said:

In my case it's VERY useful to see the graph over time (or distance,
if I prefer) of what my heart rate is doing, and compare with
speed/cadence/altitudes (and thus rate of climb etc).  Plus, having
had a few instances where I've nearly feinted with suddenly very low
heart rates (considering I'd just climbed up a long hill) there was a
bit of concern as to what it was actually doing (the heart, not the
monitor) sometimes, and it meant I could look back and see, rather
than fail to remember to look *at the time*.

OK, this is what I don't get. Forgive me if I'm an old fogey. Who the
hell cares what their heart is doing, provided it keeps on doing it?
What you want to know is how much distance you're covering, and how
fast you're covering it (and for how much longer you'll be able to
maintain that speed, and at what rate your speed will decrease as
tiredness builds).

I mean, persuade me. I would dearly love not to have to take large
quantities of rat-poison every day, and not to have to go into the
doctors' once a fortnight to have my blood viscosity measured. But I
just don't see what difference knowing how hard my heart was beating
would make. Cadence, yes, I see that. Altimeter and in particular
rate-of-climb meter, yes, excellent. Heart rate? WTF? It's a pump. It
pumps. If it doesn't pump enough oxygen in and enough lactic acid out,
my legs don't go round so well and my cadence and speed drop. And you
can usually observe that without any instrumentation at all.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

-- mens vacua in medio vacuo --

On 23/8/04 7:39 am, in article
[email hidden], "Velvet"

Quoted message said:

If you want *real* OTTness, have a look at adding the power option to it
(though you then don't use either the included speed sensor OR have to
buy the cadence sensor...)

I thought that would be the playstation version where you can compete
against your favourite cyclist of yore up the Alpe d' Huez with the PS
powered by the bike..

...d