I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.
I also have a cannondale and when i ride this bike I have no problems.
One thing I have noticed between the two is the cannondale has wider
handelbars than the Trek.
Could this be the problem?
I have very wide shoulders for my size.
I am thinking maybe it is putting more weight on my wrists or is this
nonsense or should I look for another cause.....the saddle perhaps?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right now
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
Handlebars?
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- Cycling Equipment
- Published
- 29 July 2004
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- 9 August 2004
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- CR_ [email hidden]
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CR_ email hidden said:
I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.You have fitting problems, probably as a result of your handlebars
being set far too low with respect to your saddle. you're putting a
lot of weight on your hands in an awkward place.The shop should have never let you out the door without having fitted
you properly to a new bike--ESPECIALLY considering the large sum you
had to hand over for the trek.Take it back and kick up a fuss.
-Luigi
-
Thanks my wife says the same thing!
They are replacing the handlebars which they feel are the problem,
they have to order them from Trek.
I think I am going to have to pay for them:{
Do you think this is the problem
If not they are going to screw me again"Luigi de Guzman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
CR_ email hidden said:
I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.You have fitting problems, probably as a result of your handlebars
being set far too low with respect to your saddle. you're putting a
lot of weight on your hands in an awkward place.The shop should have never let you out the door without having fitted
you properly to a new bike--ESPECIALLY considering the large sum you
had to hand over for the trek.Take it back and kick up a fuss.
-Luigi
-
CR_ email hidden said:
Thanks my wife says the same thing!
They are replacing the handlebars which they feel are the problem,
How did they determine that this was the problem?
Quoted message said:
they have to order them from Trek.
I think I am going to have to pay for them:{
Do you think this is the problem
If not they are going to screw me againThat's outrageous. They fit you poorly for the bike, and they want
YOU to pay for the bars?Name and Shame time. Who are these jokers, and where are they
located? Nobody should have to put up with this [censored].-Luigi
-
"CR_ [email hidden]" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:CdfOc.4783$T76.2770@trndny09...Quoted message said:
I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.
I also have a cannondale and when i ride this bike I have no problems.
One thing I have noticed between the two is the cannondale has wider
handelbars than the Trek.
Could this be the problem?
I have very wide shoulders for my size.
I am thinking maybe it is putting more weight on my wrists or is this
nonsense or should I look for another cause.....the saddle perhaps?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right now
Take both bikes to the shop and have them set up the position on the Trek to
match the Cannondale. If it's a new bike there should be no charge for
exchanging like parts for those that fit. They should have done that in the
first place.Additional thought.: Check to see if your seat is to far forward placing to
much weight on your hands. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html Keith
Bontrager's take on position.
Bill -
I brought my other bike with me to a compare the two .
My other bike has wider bars.
They put my Trek on a trainer and had me ride it.
I got off the bike and they measured my shoulders and said i should try
wider bars.
Another guy suggested it could be the saddle/All i want is the f**kin bike fixed at this point.
10 miles or more and I am hurting.Also I forgot to mention
One of my cycling buddies also thought maybe the bars were to narrow.
But when I first mentioned that to the dealer on the phone they said it
surely wasn't that.
They said the stem probably needed to be raised.
Now they want to try wider bars insteadSo to get back to my original question
Does anybody think wider bars will solve the problem .
I like to fix this once and for all especially if I am paying the tab .As Lugi stated
This bike ain't cheap"Luigi de Guzman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
CR_ email hidden said:
Thanks my wife says the same thing!
They are replacing the handlebars which they feel are the problem,
How did they determine that this was the problem?
Quoted message said:
they have to order them from Trek.
I think I am going to have to pay for them:{
Do you think this is the problem
If not they are going to screw me againThat's outrageous. They fit you poorly for the bike, and they want
YOU to pay for the bars?Name and Shame time. Who are these jokers, and where are they
located? Nobody should have to put up with this [censored].-Luigi
-
I have been given an old pair (10 years) of these bars and teh plastic end piece that joins teh two arms together is broken.
Is it safe to use the bars without this?
Where would I buy a replacement piece if needed?Kevin
Australia -
CR_ email hidden said:
I brought my other bike with me to a compare the two .
My other bike has wider bars.
They put my Trek on a trainer and had me ride it.
I got off the bike and they measured my shoulders and said i should try
wider bars.
Another guy suggested it could be the saddle/Are your wrists splayed funny when you ride on the hoods? To get a
tingle in my wrists from having them too close together with
everything else aligned for riding on the hoods of an imaginary
handlebar, I have to have them nearly touching, my hands at right
angles, palms facing out.I didn't see you on the trainer, so I don't know--but again, did they
try adjusting the height of the handlebars at all?Quoted message said:
Also I forgot to mention
One of my cycling buddies also thought maybe the bars were to narrow.
But when I first mentioned that to the dealer on the phone they said it
surely wasn't that.
They said the stem probably needed to be raised.That's my first reaction. Did you have them try that, first?
Quoted message said:
Now they want to try wider bars instead
Perhaps at your insistence?
Quoted message said:
So to get back to my original question
Does anybody think wider bars will solve the problem .
I like to fix this once and for all especially if I am paying the tab .The problem is probably too-low handlebars caused by a steerer tube
being cut too short, and then fitting a stem with insufficient rise.
This might have been avoided if they had fitted you properly, then cut
the steerer tube to the appropriate height.Is your saddle angled down? It may be that you're sliding down in the
saddle as you ride, and having to push back with your hands, causing
pain in your wrists.Sheldon Brown has a whole website on bicycling pain:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain
-Luigi
-
The feeling I get in my wrists can best be described is as if someone was
pulling my fingers backward for a long period of time.The wider bars was not my idea since they shot this down over the phone.
As far as raising the stem which they suggested over the phone.
They measured from the saddle to the bars and said it wasn't necessary.
The saddle is level.
It is as far back as it will go
I tried moving it around a bit on my last ride trying to help .If they put wider bars on my bike are there any negatives in doing this?
Oh I forgot to mention
The bars are Bontanger and I believe they can't be raised very easily.
At least that is what I was told"Luigi de Guzman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
CR_ email hidden said:
I brought my other bike with me to a compare the two .
My other bike has wider bars.
They put my Trek on a trainer and had me ride it.
I got off the bike and they measured my shoulders and said i should try
wider bars.
Another guy suggested it could be the saddle/Are your wrists splayed funny when you ride on the hoods? To get a
tingle in my wrists from having them too close together with
everything else aligned for riding on the hoods of an imaginary
handlebar, I have to have them nearly touching, my hands at right
angles, palms facing out.I didn't see you on the trainer, so I don't know--but again, did they
try adjusting the height of the handlebars at all?Quoted message said:
Also I forgot to mention
One of my cycling buddies also thought maybe the bars were to narrow.
But when I first mentioned that to the dealer on the phone they said it
surely wasn't that.
They said the stem probably needed to be raised.That's my first reaction. Did you have them try that, first?
Quoted message said:
Now they want to try wider bars instead
Perhaps at your insistence?
Quoted message said:
So to get back to my original question
Does anybody think wider bars will solve the problem .
I like to fix this once and for all especially if I am paying the tab .The problem is probably too-low handlebars caused by a steerer tube
being cut too short, and then fitting a stem with insufficient rise.
This might have been avoided if they had fitted you properly, then cut
the steerer tube to the appropriate height.Is your saddle angled down? It may be that you're sliding down in the
saddle as you ride, and having to push back with your hands, causing
pain in your wrists.Sheldon Brown has a whole website on bicycling pain:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain
-Luigi
-
Bill said:
"CR_ [email hidden]" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:CdfOc.4783$T76.2770@trndny09...Quoted message said:
I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.
I also have a cannondale and when i ride this bike I have no problems.
One thing I have noticed between the two is the cannondale has wider
handelbars than the Trek.
Could this be the problem?
I have very wide shoulders for my size.
I am thinking maybe it is putting more weight on my wrists or is this
nonsense or should I look for another cause.....the saddle perhaps?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right nowTake both bikes to the shop and have them set up the position on the Trek to
match the Cannondale. If it's a new bike there should be no charge for
exchanging like parts for those that fit. They should have done that in the
first place.Additional thought.: Check to see if your seat is to far forward placing to
much weight on your hands. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html Keith
Bontrager's take on position.
BillI'll second Bill's idea of getting the LBS to match the new bike to the
old one identically, as far as fit is concerned. It's also in the
interests of the LBS to do so. If they can show that they've matched
your new bike to your old in terms of fit, then they can (quite rightly)
claim that you haven't a leg to stand on, in terms of future complaints.
And it's almost certain that your wrist pain will disappear.I myself have experimented with bar width (fro 38cm to 44 cm) and
noticed no difference as far as wrist pain goes (I get it occasionally,
as well as finger numbness due to vibration). I can imagine, though,
that if you have a "bad" riding position, that the "wrong" bar width may
make it more uncomfortable. But the root cause of the problem is more
likely to be something like bars set too low, too long stem, or even
something like angle of bars / position of brake lever hoods.Can't remember details of your bikes, but it wouldn't surprise me if the
LBS has cut the steerer too short for your ideal riding position. This
would be really difficult to fix, unless you flip the stem to point
upwards, or buy a new fork.Finally review (yes, one more time) all fit parameters on the old bike:
* centre of bottom bracket to seat top, along seat tube (giving seat
height). Assuming you're not switching crank length, of course.
* seat tilt
* distance between seat tip and vertical line projected up from centre
of bottom bracket (giving seat position fore/aft)
* distance of centre of handlebars from seat tip (giving reach)
* distance between handlebar tops and horizontal line projected forwards
from seat tip (giving bar height relative to seat)
* angle of handlebar tops, location and angle of brake levers/hoods,
difference in height between tops and drops (what else have I missed now)... . . . and make sure that the LBS sets up the new bike identically.
Pls excuse if I have duplicated other respondents' good advice in this
mail. Credit goes to them, at any rate./Robert
-
<< I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200. >><BR><BR>
<< When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain. >><BR><BR>
<< Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right nowQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
<BR><BR>
Sounds like you had the 'standover, ride around the parking lot' type fit. See
a fit person, somebody that can start with saddle position, height and go
forward.Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" -
You hit the nail right on the head.
It was exactly that!!!!!!!!!
Ride around the parking lot and let me look!!!Thanks for the responses to my question folks
It's obvious to me we have some smart people here regarding bicycles.
More than my LBS that's for sure"Qui si parla Campagnolo " <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
<< I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200. >><BR><BR>
<< When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain. >><BR><BR>
<< Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right nowQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
<BR><BR>
Sounds like you had the 'standover, ride around the parking lot' type fit.
SeeQuoted message said:
a fit person, somebody that can start with saddle position, height and go
forward.Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" -
a wider bar than stock opens the rib cage and allows much more
effective breathing-if you think about breathing. Narrow bars mean
higher profits from less material use.
wider pedal positon? wider stance? same deal. think martial arts
postures. -
"CR_ [email hidden]" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<9klOc.6850$Mr3.1211@trndny08>...
Quoted message said:
The feeling I get in my wrists can best be described is as if someone was
pulling my fingers backward for a long period of time.The wider bars was not my idea since they shot this down over the phone.
As far as raising the stem which they suggested over the phone.
They measured from the saddle to the bars and said it wasn't necessary.Did the measure: a) floor to saddle, b) floor to bars, and c) take
the difference between the two?Quoted message said:
The saddle is level.
Good.
Quoted message said:
It is as far back as it will go
But it may not be back far enough. Wrist pain is likely caused by too
much weight on the hands and is not by bars that are too narrow. Too
much weight on the hands is a question of balance; the weight is too
far forward. A proper fit would have most of the weight on your
butt, and that is a function of getting the seat far enough back. You
might need a different seatpost to get the seat back far enough, but
you may need to get the seat back further and the bars higher to get
some weight off your hands.Quoted message said:
I tried moving it around a bit on my last ride trying to help .
If they put wider bars on my bike are there any negatives in doing this?
Only in some types of racing events ....
Quoted message said:
Oh I forgot to mention
The bars are Bontanger and I believe they can't be raised very easily.
At least that is what I was toldManufacturer of the bars is irrelevant, and the bars have nothing to
do with the ability to raise/lower the height of them above ground.
The two relevant issues are length of the steerer, and the stem angle
and length. As someone else opined, it appears that the shop did a
poor job of fitting, probably to the point of cutting the steerer tube
too short. Now to fix what they likely 'broke' it will take maybe and
adapter and/or a sharply angled stem. The fix should be on their
nickel, not yours.- rick
-
"CR_ [email hidden]" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<CdfOc.4783$T76.2770@trndny09>...
Quoted message said:
I just purchased a new bike.
It's a trek 5200.
When i ride more than 10 miles or so I develop wrist pain.
I also have a cannondale and when i ride this bike I have no problems.
One thing I have noticed between the two is the cannondale has wider
handelbars than the Trek.
Could this be the problem?
I have very wide shoulders for my size.
I am thinking maybe it is putting more weight on my wrists or is this
nonsense or should I look for another cause.....the saddle perhaps?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This bike is a [censored] to ride right nowHi< You haven't posted any follow-up, or what the prognosis was with
your problem, and if the problem was solved, and how?I myself am interested to hear how you made out with this problem?
Hope you've got it solved, Mark d.
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