MTB gearing/handlebars for rodie

Eric said:

Recently someone asked about gearing a road bike with MTB gears. I'd
like to try the opposite: I bought a used GT frame with fairly stock
XTR components. It
seems I'm always looking for the right gear, and they're all too low
or too high. I realize I'm not going to be as fast as on my road bike,
but I'd like to be able to move when on dirt roads.

You may have a clearance issue in front. Mountain frames have wide
chainstays to make room for fat knobby tires. The chainstays usually
have a fairly sharp bend from just in front of the tire, inward toward
the bottom bracket. "Mountain" cranksets tend to have smaller
chainrings, and they also tend to be farther out from the centerline.

To install a typical "road" crankset with, say, a 52 tooth chainring on
a mountain frame, you'ld need to use a super long bottom bracket axle to
get the chainrings far enough to the right to clear the right chainstay.

Even if you can find a long enough bottom bracket unit, the resulting
chainline is liable to be quite crooked.

Quoted message said:

Also, how wide should my handlebars be? They are straight bars, about
4-6" wider than my shoulders. I feel like they are way too wide, and
I'd like them the same width as my shoulders.

For straight bars, I like to slide the brake and shift controls pretty
much as far inward as they will go. I usually cut a couple of inches
off each end of the bars.

My advice is to experiment with an inboard control position, and do a
bunch of riding before actually cutting the bars. I sometimes use the
Grab-on grips intended for drop bars, giving a nice long grip area so I
can hold the bars out near the end when I want to, or in close when I
prefer a more aero position.

Sheldon "Fits" Brown
+-------------------------------------------+
| Never do today what you can do tomorrow. |
| Something may occur to make you regret |
| your premature action. --Aaron Burr |
+-------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Before you make any changes, take note of which gears you do use. Then
you can choose the range that suits your needs. not too wide yet still
enough.

- -

"May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

[email hidden] (Eric) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Recently someone asked about gearing a road bike with MTB gears. I'd
like to try the opposite: gear my MTB like my road bike. You see, I
just started riding a mountain bike after several years of road
biking.

.....I bought a used GT frame with fairly stock XTR components...

How old are the XTR components? Do you have an 8 or 9 speed cassette?

..... seems I'm always looking for the right gear, and they're all too
low

Quoted message said:

or too high. I realize I'm not going to be as fast as on my road bike,
but I'd like to be able to move when on dirt roads.....

Mountain bikes need a wide range of gears due to the greater
difference in terrain and road (or in this case trail) conditions than
those typically encountered on a road bike. If your gears are too low
and too high, what type of terrain are you riding? If you are riding
mostly flat dirt roads or trails, you may not need the wide range of a
typical MTB cassette. You can replace it with a road cassete - say a
Shimano 105 with a range of 12x27. This would give you gearing more
like a road bike.

..... The other extreme is when I'm climbing a steep grade. I'm almost

Quoted message said:

always either loosing traction or in too tall a gear (and falling
over). I'm sure I could find the right gear on my road bike....

Sounds like you need some more time on the MTB, and maybe some
instruction from some good MTB riders. Loosing traction can be caused
by a number of things. Most common are: Too tall a gear and low RPMs
/ incorrect weight distribution / worn or poorly designed rear tire /
too loose of terrain (you can't always climb everything). If you
could find the right gear on your road bike, you will be able to find
the right gear on your MTB in time. Try using lower gears and spin
those cranks up the hills.

..... Also, how wide should my handlebars be? They are straight bars,
about

Quoted message said:

4-6" wider than my shoulders. I feel like they are way too wide, and
I'd like them the same width as my shoulders....

This is a personal reference. I prefer to have my hands rest just
outside of my sholders (this is pretty typical for MTBs), I get better
control, leverage, and comfort. I also like bars with more sweep back
(about 9 degrees). Narrow bars may give you faster steering. Riders
who ride tight technical trails with lots of closed spaced trees often
run narrower bars. Yuo can try cutting them down with a pipe cutter or
hack saw. Try no more than an inch at a time. Ride them for a couple
of weeks and go from there. If you go too far, you can always buy
another pair of bars.

..... Any thoughts? Should I have just checked the FAQ? 🙂....

Try riding with a MTB group. Most riders are always willing to give
advice.

Rocketman58,
Riding "Mountainbikes" since 1977.

Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Eric said:

Recently someone asked about gearing a road bike with MTB gears. I'd
like to try the opposite: I bought a used GT frame with fairly stock
XTR components. It
seems I'm always looking for the right gear, and they're all too low
or too high. I realize I'm not going to be as fast as on my road bike,
but I'd like to be able to move when on dirt roads.

You may have a clearance issue in front. Mountain frames have wide
chainstays to make room for fat knobby tires. The chainstays usually
have a fairly sharp bend from just in front of the tire, inward toward
the bottom bracket. "Mountain" cranksets tend to have smaller
chainrings, and they also tend to be farther out from the centerline.
To install a typical "road" crankset with, say, a 52 tooth chainring on
a mountain frame, you'ld need to use a super long bottom bracket axle to
get the chainrings far enough to the right to clear the right chainstay.

I was thinking more about a different cassette, but I see your point.
The cassette that is currently installed looks completly different
than what is on the road bike (ultegra). It looks like it is a one
piece unit.

Quoted message said:

Even if you can find a long enough bottom bracket unit, the resulting
chainline is liable to be quite crooked.

Quoted message said:

Also, how wide should my handlebars be? They are straight bars, about
4-6" wider than my shoulders. I feel like they are way too wide, and
I'd like them the same width as my shoulders.

For straight bars, I like to slide the brake and shift controls pretty
much as far inward as they will go. I usually cut a couple of inches
off each end of the bars.

My advice is to experiment with an inboard control position, and do a
bunch of riding before actually cutting the bars. I sometimes use the
Grab-on grips intended for drop bars, giving a nice long grip area so I
can hold the bars out near the end when I want to, or in close when I
prefer a more aero position.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try.

Eric

[email hidden] (rocketman58) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Eric) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Recently someone asked about gearing a road bike with MTB gears. I'd
like to try the opposite: gear my MTB like my road bike. You see, I
just started riding a mountain bike after several years of road
biking.

....I bought a used GT frame with fairly stock XTR components...

How old are the XTR components? Do you have an 8 or 9 speed cassette?

8 speed cassette with a 9 speed (or horribly out of alignment)
derailer.

Quoted message said:

.... seems I'm always looking for the right gear, and they're all too
low

Quoted message said:

or too high. I realize I'm not going to be as fast as on my road bike,
but I'd like to be able to move when on dirt roads.....

Mountain bikes need a wide range of gears due to the greater
difference in terrain and road (or in this case trail) conditions than
those typically encountered on a road bike. If your gears are too low
and too high, what type of terrain are you riding? If you are riding
mostly flat dirt roads or trails, you may not need the wide range of a
typical MTB cassette. You can replace it with a road cassete - say a
Shimano 105 with a range of 12x27. This would give you gearing more
like a road bike.

.... The other extreme is when I'm climbing a steep grade. I'm almost

Quoted message said:

always either loosing traction or in too tall a gear (and falling
over). I'm sure I could find the right gear on my road bike....

Sounds like you need some more time on the MTB, and maybe some
instruction from some good MTB riders. Loosing traction can be caused
by a number of things. Most common are: Too tall a gear and low RPMs
/ incorrect weight distribution / worn or poorly designed rear tire /
too loose of terrain (you can't always climb everything). If you
could find the right gear on your road bike, you will be able to find
the right gear on your MTB in time. Try using lower gears and spin
those cranks up the hills.

I've gotten better at keeping my weight over the back tire on hills,
and I think the tires have a lot of grip (but they seem to be more of
a mud tire). As for spinning, I seem to loose traction sooner when I
spin up the hills.

Quoted message said:

.... Also, how wide should my handlebars be? They are straight bars,
about

Quoted message said:

4-6" wider than my shoulders. I feel like they are way too wide, and
I'd like them the same width as my shoulders....

This is a personal reference. I prefer to have my hands rest just
outside of my sholders (this is pretty typical for MTBs), I get better
control, leverage, and comfort. I also like bars with more sweep back
(about 9 degrees). Narrow bars may give you faster steering. Riders
who ride tight technical trails with lots of closed spaced trees often
run narrower bars. Yuo can try cutting them down with a pipe cutter or
hack saw. Try no more than an inch at a time. Ride them for a couple
of weeks and go from there. If you go too far, you can always buy
another pair of bars.

.... Any thoughts? Should I have just checked the FAQ? 🙂....

Try riding with a MTB group. Most riders are always willing to give
advice.

Rocketman58,
Riding "Mountainbikes" since 1977.

.......8 speed cassette with a 9 speed (or horribly out of alignment)
derailer....

A 9 speed rear deraileur works fine with an 8speed cassette. It may
be out of adjustment, or since it is used, it is posssibe the bike
was crashed and the rear deraileur hanger is slightly bent. You might
consider taking the bike to a good bike shop for a lookover and/or
tune-up.

..... I've gotten better at keeping my weight over the back tire on
hills, and I think the tires have a lot of grip (but they seem to be
more of a mud tire). As for spinning, I seem to loose traction sooner
when I spin up the hills....

Different tires work better for different conditions. It may still be
a matter of just getting used to riding offroad. Sounds like you
still need to find your perect cadence for hill climbing.

Even though I have been riding for years, there are a few hills on my
local loop that I occasionally can not make it up. Sometimes it is
just a matter of the trail condition and how I am feeeling that day.

Rocketman58,
Riding "Mountainbikes" since 1977.