Request: Identify this bike

On 8 Jul 2004 14:24:11 -0700, [email hidden] (Scott Pointe)

Quoted message said:

Hello, I'm Scott, this is my website. http://buzzmnt.tripod.com

I am in the market for a bike to commute as a college student in
Athens Georgia. The bike I'm looking at is on my website. If you
click the picture, it will increase its size. I'm told it was
purchased in 1998, levers and whole grupo is Campanoglo, and has a
light as hell frame. Prolly needs new tires. I have yet to see it in
person, have to travel Athens to Augusta. Ask price is $200. Need
advice. Thanks ! ! ! -buzzmn

If what you say is true, then you've got a deal. Is it your size?

however:

As a commute bike, know that this one probably won't fit fenders, so
riding in the rain (or through wet streets immeditatly after a rain)
will not be fun. You'll get a skunk stripe up your backside and muck
in your eyes.

You might want to put a rack on it.

And you do ride in the street, right? Because if you ride a bike like
this on the sidewalk, you should be shot.

-Luigi

[email hidden] (Scott Pointe) wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Hello, I'm Scott, this is my website. http://buzzmnt.tripod.com

I am in the market for a bike to commute as a college student in
Athens Georgia. The bike I'm looking at is on my website. If you
click the picture, it will increase its size. I'm told it was
purchased in 1998, levers and whole grupo is Campanoglo, and has a
light as hell frame. Prolly needs new tires. I have yet to see it in
person, have to travel Athens to Augusta. Ask price is $200. Need
advice. Thanks ! ! ! -buzzmn

Make sure it fits. Check the frame for rust, dings, or hairline fractures.
Check wheels, (rim sidewalls for wear, rims overall for trueness, and make
sure spokes are well tensioned). Check functionality, (brakes, shifting,
play in headset or bottom bracket). If it fits and shows reasonable use,
not abuse, then $200 is a great price. You can change anything you don't
like as it wears out.

Mike

garmonboezia cthvlhv@r'lyeh.arg said:

[email hidden] (Scott Pointe) wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Hello, I'm Scott, this is my website. http://buzzmnt.tripod.com

I am in the market for a bike to commute as a college student in
Athens Georgia. The bike I'm looking at is on my website. If you
click the picture, it will increase its size. I'm told it was
purchased in 1998, levers and whole grupo is Campanoglo, and has a
light as hell frame. Prolly needs new tires. I have yet to see it in
person, have to travel Athens to Augusta. Ask price is $200. Need
advice. Thanks ! ! ! -buzzmn

Make sure it fits. Check the frame for rust, dings, or hairline fractures.
Check wheels, (rim sidewalls for wear, rims overall for trueness, and make
sure spokes are well tensioned). Check functionality, (brakes, shifting,
play in headset or bottom bracket). If it fits and shows reasonable use,
not abuse, then $200 is a great price. You can change anything you don't
like as it wears out.

Mike

Good advice. May I suggest you ride it around the block and up a modest
hill and make sure it feels right. Even at that, not much of a risk for
that price.

-B

In addition to checking for cracks, check for peeling paint. If the frame
has been bent slightly, the only way to detect it may be to notice if any of
the
paint is rippled or bubbled or peeling....that indicates the tube is
mishapen
because the paint no longer "fits" the tube in it's original
shape/configuration.

"Scott Pointe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello, I'm Scott, this is my website. http://buzzmnt.tripod.com

I am in the market for a bike to commute as a college student in
Athens Georgia. The bike I'm looking at is on my website. If you
click the picture, it will increase its size. I'm told it was
purchased in 1998, levers and whole grupo is Campanoglo, and has a
light as hell frame. Prolly needs new tires. I have yet to see it in
person, have to travel Athens to Augusta. Ask price is $200. Need
advice. Thanks ! ! ! -buzzmn

Scott Pointe said:

Hello, I'm Scott, this is my website. http://buzzmnt.tripod.com

It's a blue Mongoose.

Bill "always helpful" S.

Thanks for the advice. I'd like to send more details but not having
seen it I have one or two further questions. Is Mongoose primarily a
'Department Store' brand? Do good dealers even sell Mongoose in the
non-BMX category? In response to the fender issue, can't you add
fenders to the seat post? Finally, if you add a rack or are commuting
with a sizeable backpack, does a drop bar make riding less enjoyable?
The straight bars, most MTN bikes have it, allows a more upright
position, less agressive. Comments? Thank you so much for the useful
responses thus far! -buzzmnt

Luigi de Guzman <[email hidden]> wrote in message > If what you say is true, then you've got a deal. Is it your size?

Quoted message said:

however:

As a commute bike, know that this one probably won't fit fenders, so
riding in the rain (or through wet streets immeditatly after a rain)
will not be fun. You'll get a skunk stripe up your backside and muck
in your eyes.

You might want to put a rack on it.

And you do ride in the street, right? Because if you ride a bike like
this on the sidewalk, you should be shot.

-Luigi

On 9 Jul 2004 13:59:09 -0700, [email hidden] (Scott Pointe)

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the advice. I'd like to send more details but not having
seen it I have one or two further questions. Is Mongoose primarily a
'Department Store' brand?

It wasn't when the bike you're looking at was made.

Quoted message said:

Do good dealers even sell Mongoose in the
non-BMX category?

This is where it's confusing. Yes: there are "good" Mongoose
bicycles sold through real bikeshops--I know of at least one
legitimate dealer near me. The vast majority of new "Mongoose" bikes
out there now are Wal*Mart bikes though.

Quoted message said:

In response to the fender issue, can't you add
fenders to the seat post?

It's sub-optimal. You'll still get muck flying up that isn't caught
by the seatpost-mount half-fender, but it's better than nothing. I've
seen bike messengers ride close-clearance road bikes with spray guards
of this type... so it works.

Quoted message said:

Finally, if you add a rack or are commuting
with a sizeable backpack, does a drop bar make riding less enjoyable?

I don't understand the question. Drop bars have made riding MORE
enjoyable for me, at least for road riding.

I'm talking about mounting about a rear rack that bolts onto the
frame. Onto this rear rack you could then zip-tie or bungee a milk
crate for utility--and remove the crate when you just want to go for a
ride. (if the bike doesn't have the appropriate threaded eyelets for
a rear rack, you can use P-clamps to secure the rack onto the rear
stays. This works quite well. Also, a rack with a solid top platform
works as a kind of fender, keeping muck from flying up your backside).

Seatpost-mounted racks don't inspire confidence for me: it would be
like riding with a squirrel bouncing on a divers' springboard behind
my saddle--and that's not what I want.

Riding with a sizeable backpack is sub-optimal, but doable.

Drop bars are great for long rides in the saddle; I find them
infinitely more comfortable than flat handlebars. They allow many
hand positions--you don't ride in the drops all the time. I ride 90
percent of the time on the hoods--and since those are Ergopower hoods
on the bike, you'll be able to brake and shift from that position
very easily indeed.

Quoted message said:

The straight bars, most MTN bikes have it, allows a more upright
position, less agressive.

Raise the handlebars to the level of the saddle. Upright, less
aggressive, and very very comfortable with drops. This shouldn't be
too hard to do if the bike has a conventional quill stem. If it has a
Threadless stem, you might want to add spacers and/or swap the stem
with something with a bit more rise to bring the bars up to a
reasonable level.

In traffic, some people have noted that the more upright posture in a
flat handlebar makes it easier to keep your head up and scan for
traffic. This may be true--I commuted in heavy traffic in Central
London on a bike with flat bars, and noticed no real difference,
though.

Quoted message said:

Comments? Thank you so much for the useful
responses thus far! -buzzmnt

General comment: I have forgotten to ask two very important
questions-- First, do you ride a bicycle much? And, second, where will
you be doing most of your riding?

It seems silly, but if you're considering a road bike like this, it's
a bit more valid than most.

From your responses, I'm wondering whether or not you might be
better-served looking for a good-quality, used, solid (that is, no
suspension) mountain bike in your area. a change of tires to slicks
and the addition of fenders and a rack make a very useful commuting
bike. Bikes of this sort in your price range are findeable in a
variety of places....used bike dealers, want-ads, pawnshops....

The road racer is a sexy machine, though....if you like taking long
rides when you're not trying to make lectures on time, then I'd get
the roadie.

-Luigi

Luigi de Guzman <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

On 9 Jul 2004 13:59:09 -0700, [email hidden] (Scott Pointe)
wrote:
Is Mongoose primarily a
Department Store' brand?

It wasn't when the bike you're looking at was made.

Do good dealers even sell Mongoose in the
non-BMX category?

This is where it's confusing. Yes: there are "good" Mongoose
bicycles sold through real bikeshops--I know of at least one
legitimate dealer near me. The vast majority of new "Mongoose" bikes
out there now are Wal*Mart bikes though.

I'll check the Athens area for Mongoose distributers. One shop, the
Bike Hub, had a salesperson who relegated Mongoose to the Sears type
stores.

Quoted message said:

Finally, if you add a rack or are commuting
with a sizeable backpack, does a drop bar make riding less enjoyable?

I don't understand the question. Drop bars have made riding MORE
enjoyable for me, at least for road riding.

Same story Luigi. The salesman, wearing a mechanic's apron, asserted
what you were saying: drops equal more positions but straight bars
would be more upright ergo comfiest.

Quoted message said:

Seatpost-mounted racks don't inspire confidence for me: it would be
like riding with a squirrel bouncing on a divers' springboard behind
my saddle--and that's not what I want.

lol -

Quoted message said:

Drop bars are great for long rides in the saddle; I find them
infinitely more comfortable than flat handlebars. They allow many
hand positions--you don't ride in the drops all the time. I ride 90
percent of the time on the hoods--and since those are Ergopower hoods
on the bike, you'll be able to brake and shift from that position
very easily indeed.

Excellent advice.

Quoted message said:

General comment: I have forgotten to ask two very important
questions-- First, do you ride a bicycle much? And, second, where will
you be doing most of your riding?

I have not had a bike in a few years. I currently drive an UMC
Aeromate step-truck and would like to trade it for a good scooter. I
really want to use a bike for classes and possible to commute to work,
hate that word, when I find some. Athens is kind of hilly, but very
small, smallest county in Georgia: Pop. 101,000. I'm pretty activist
minded about saving on gas so a bicycle is a must.

Quoted message said:

From your responses, I'm wondering whether or not you might be
better-served looking for a good-quality, used, solid (that is, no
suspension) mountain bike in your area. a change of tires to slicks
and the addition of fenders and a rack make a very useful commuting
bike. Bikes of this sort in your price range are findeable in a
variety of places....used bike dealers, want-ads, pawnshops....

Yes this is the crux. I'm having trouble finding good brands used.
I've tried Potter's House (equivalent to Salvation Army), the Habitat
for Humanity Re:Store, flea markets, Student Center and Downtown
kiosks, and most Georgia trader magazines, including papers, not like
I have a black-belt in shopping. If I could find a Giant Iguana I'd
be happy or a nice Cannondale for $150 would be exceptional. I've
been looking about two weeks and this Mongoose caught my eye 😉
-peace, Scott

On 9 Jul 2004 23:05:55 -0700, [email hidden] (Scott Pointe)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I don't understand the question. Drop bars have made riding MORE
enjoyable for me, at least for road riding.

Same story Luigi. The salesman, wearing a mechanic's apron, asserted
what you were saying: drops equal more positions but straight bars
would be more upright ergo comfiest.

Isolate the variables: Handlebar type and handlebar height.

If you set up drops so that the tops of the drop bars are at the same
level that a pair of flat handlebars would be, "uprightness" becomes
moot--on the tops, you're now just as upright as you would be riding
on flat bars.

Ah, but you don't ride drops on the tops--of course. But bear me out.
The brake lever hoods, on which you do much of your riding, are now at
around the same level that the bar-end extensions of a mountainbike
would be. And from here, you can brake...and, with ergopower or STI,
shift!

There are also an awful lot of "flat-barred road bikes"--the term for
sportier hybrids these days, I guess--out there, with flat handlebars
set down low. The net effect is to put your hands into the position
that they'd be if you were riding on the drops--without the benefit of
being able to get up to the hoods or the tops.

I accept that comfort on the bicycle is a highly subjective and
personal thing, but if it's one thing I hate seeing perpetuated is
this fiction that drop bars are ALWAYS uncomfortable. They are NOT
torture devices--they were designed, over many years, with the input
of many riders, to serve a distinct purpose: staying comfortable and
efficient over many miles and hours in the saddle.

If you really desire the "sit up and beg", bolt-upright position, get
yourself a pair of riser bars, or even old North Road pattern
handlebars (you know, like the ones on old Raleigh 3-speeds). Flat
bars have some advantages in traffic: 1) easy to keep your head up
and eyes on the road. 2) easier in stop-and-go traffic situations.
3) easier to lift the front wheel or otherwise manhandle the bike over
minor obstacles.

If you're on the bike for more than, say, two hours at a stretch,
drops are a good bet. Flat bars are all right (some would say
preferable) in traffic.

Quoted message said:

Yes this is the crux. I'm having trouble finding good brands used.
I've tried Potter's House (equivalent to Salvation Army), the Habitat
for Humanity Re:Store, flea markets, Student Center and Downtown
kiosks, and most Georgia trader magazines, including papers, not like
I have a black-belt in shopping. If I could find a Giant Iguana I'd
be happy or a nice Cannondale for $150 would be exceptional. I've
been looking about two weeks and this Mongoose caught my eye 😉
-peace, Scott

H'm.

Used bikeshopping is a weird experience. Sometimes, just the thing
you need falls into your hands at once. Other times...well.

I was in a similar position a few years ago, actually, looking to
repair an old bike, or get another used road bike. After letting me
look around his shop, one used-bike dealer in my area--a kindly,
older, Vietnamese fellow--clapped me on the shoulder in a friendly way
and said:

"You're a strong young man. You deserve a NEW bike!"

At US$ 200, you're already beginning to creep into the low end of
proper bike-shop bikes...which may end up suiting your needs better.

My dad bought a Fuji Supreme hybrid for about that much money a couple
of years back. It's a fine bicycle--he doesn't ride it nearly as much
as he should, and it would make a great commuter for a student.
Plenty of rack and fender clearance, reasonable gearing, "sit up and
beg" geometry.

OK, it's not a full-blown, all-Campagnolo (I refuse to say "campy."😉
road racer. But you're not a road racer, either. Buy the bike that
suits you and your uses. There will always be time to buy yourself
the road racer, when you're ready for it.

-Luigi

"Luigi de Guzman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Seatpost-mounted racks don't inspire confidence for me: it would be
like riding with a squirrel bouncing on a divers' springboard behind
my saddle--and that's not what I want.

This has not been my experience. I have a seatpost mounted rack I got from
Performance and it has - so far - proven to be very stable. Granted, I have
never loaded it to its claimed 25 pound capacity, but for books, video tapes
and a six pack of Sierra Nevada it works quite well. Besides, it just looks
"cleaner" than a frame mounted rack. And we all know how important looks
are.

Dave

Raoul Duke said:

"Luigi de Guzman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Seatpost-mounted racks don't inspire confidence for me: it would be
like riding with a squirrel bouncing on a divers' springboard behind
my saddle--and that's not what I want.

This has not been my experience. I have a seatpost mounted rack I got from
Performance and it has - so far - proven to be very stable. Granted, I have
never loaded it to its claimed 25 pound capacity, but for books, video tapes
and a six pack of Sierra Nevada it works quite well.

Sure. But can you lug a sack of rice on it, huh? :-)

Quoted message said:

Besides, it just looks
"cleaner" than a frame mounted rack. And we all know how important looks
are.

I prefer the look of a frame-mount rack, personally. The
seatpost-mount rack looks like exactly what it is--an afterthought.
On the appropriate bike--say, my tourer, or an old-fashoned
roadster--the frame-mount rack looks like an organic part of hte
whole. Just like the fenders.

-Luigi

Luigi de Guzman <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 10:31:02 -0700, "Raoul Duke"
<[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This has not been my experience. I have a seatpost mounted rack I got from
Performance and it has - so far - proven to be very stable. Granted, I have
never loaded it to its claimed 25 pound capacity, but for books, video tapes
and a six pack of Sierra Nevada it works quite well.

Sure. But can you lug a sack of rice on it, huh? :-)

Or all your tools, a change of clothes, a 7 lbs salmon and a jar of marinade?

Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
Home of the meditative cyclist:
http://home.earthlink.net/~cpetersky/Welcome.htm

"Claire Petersky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Or all your tools, a change of clothes, a 7 lbs salmon and a jar of

marinade?

I dunno. I carry my tools under my seat, and I generally wear all the
clothes I need when riding - except in winter, of course. As for the salmon
and marinade, I'll have to try, cuz it sure sounds like it would go pretty
well with the sixer of Sierra Nevada.

Dave

I believe I am of infinitely less knowledge and experience than Mr.
Guzman, but despite agreeing with nearly his whole post I have two
small comments:

Quoted message said:

If you set up drops so that the tops of the drop bars are at the same
level that a pair of flat handlebars would be, "uprightness" becomes
moot--on the tops, you're now just as upright as you would be riding
on flat bars.

Ah, but you don't ride drops on the tops--of course. But bear me out.
The brake lever hoods, on which you do much of your riding, are now at
around the same level that the bar-end extensions of a mountainbike
would be.

My observation is that on the drops one's reach is noticeably farther
forward from the stem than it would be on flat bars, reducing the
effective uprightness gained by raising the stem.

Of course this reach can be adjusted to some extent with different
reach stems, or by finding a bike with a shorter top tube. Personally,
however, despite the encouragement and testimonials for the comfort of
road bikes found on this group and elsewhere, I still haven't found or
been able to configure the road bike that is as comfortable as my MTB.

I'll grant (lower-case G) that I'm new at this, though. I haven't
given up on a road bike yet.

Quoted message said:

If you really desire the "sit up and beg", bolt-upright position, get
yourself a pair of riser bars, or even old North Road pattern
handlebars (you know, like the ones on old Raleigh 3-speeds).

I must defend my Wicked Witch of the West handlebars. I have North
Road bars on one of my mountain bikes and love them. I have them set
up level with the saddle, far from a "sit up and beg" position.

Cheers,
Steve

On 13 Jul 2004 08:15:09 GMT, Steve-o <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Ah, but you don't ride drops on the tops--of course. But bear me out.
The brake lever hoods, on which you do much of your riding, are now at
around the same level that the bar-end extensions of a mountainbike
would be.

My observation is that on the drops one's reach is noticeably farther
forward from the stem than it would be on flat bars, reducing the
effective uprightness gained by raising the stem.

Yes. But re-read the quoted passage: I was talking about comfort on
the tops and on the hoods--which I have compared favourably with your
flat-bar setup.

Now consider that there are NO drops to go down to in a flat-bar
setup, even if everything is equal. That means nowhere to dive down
into when you're fighting a headwind. You might not think that
matters very much, but try going to the drops in a headwind--suddenly,
relief from the roaring gale! (kind of).Not to mention the lower
center of gravity when descending or cornering. Great fun, especailly
cornering in the drops.

Drops give you an additional choice. Isn't choice good?

One more merit of drops: wrist position. Stand up, with your arms
loose. now, bend both arms at the elbows to about 90 degrees--note
the position your wrists fall into.

That is, not coincidentally the position that your wrists would be if
you were riding old-fashioned Randonneur drop handlebars!

Quoted message said:

Of course this reach can be adjusted to some extent with different
reach stems, or by finding a bike with a shorter top tube. Personally,
however, despite the encouragement and testimonials for the comfort of
road bikes found on this group and elsewhere, I still haven't found or
been able to configure the road bike that is as comfortable as my MTB.

Most new road bikes that I see sold these days are set up with
unfeasibly low handlebars for 90 percent of humanity. Threadless
stems may be to blame here, since it's quick and easy for a shop to
build a bike quickly while sawing off "excess" steerer tube. Less
labor time, more bikes on the floor--everybody's happy, right? Except
the guy who wants to ride with his handlebars further up...they can't
un-cut the steerer for him!

Quoted message said:

I'll grant (lower-case G) that I'm new at this, though. I haven't
given up on a road bike yet.

Quoted message said:

If you really desire the "sit up and beg", bolt-upright position, get
yourself a pair of riser bars, or even old North Road pattern
handlebars (you know, like the ones on old Raleigh 3-speeds).

I must defend my Wicked Witch of the West handlebars. I have North
Road bars on one of my mountain bikes and love them. I have them set
up level with the saddle, far from a "sit up and beg" position.

I'd love North Road handlebars on an old-fashoned roadster, y'know,
one with super-slack 65 degree parallel angles. Flying Pigeon style.

-Luigi

Quoted message said:

Cheers,
Steve

On 13 Jul 2004 08:15:09 GMT, Steve-o <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Ah, but you don't ride drops on the tops--of course. But bear me out.
The brake lever hoods, on which you do much of your riding, are now at
around the same level that the bar-end extensions of a mountainbike
would be.

My observation is that on the drops one's reach is noticeably farther
forward from the stem than it would be on flat bars, reducing the
effective uprightness gained by raising the stem.

Yes. But re-read the quoted passage: I was talking about comfort on
the tops and on the hoods--which I have compared favourably with your
flat-bar setup.

Now consider that there are NO drops to go down to in a flat-bar
setup, even if everything is equal. That means nowhere to dive down
into when you're fighting a headwind. You might not think that
matters very much, but try going to the drops in a headwind--suddenly,
relief from the roaring gale! (kind of).Not to mention the lower
center of gravity when descending or cornering. Great fun, especailly
cornering in the drops.

Drops give you an additional choice. Isn't choice good?

One more merit of drops: wrist position. Stand up, with your arms
loose. now, bend both arms at the elbows to about 90 degrees--note
the position your wrists fall into.

That is, not coincidentally the position that your wrists would be if
you were riding old-fashioned Randonneur drop handlebars!

Quoted message said:

Of course this reach can be adjusted to some extent with different
reach stems, or by finding a bike with a shorter top tube. Personally,
however, despite the encouragement and testimonials for the comfort of
road bikes found on this group and elsewhere, I still haven't found or
been able to configure the road bike that is as comfortable as my MTB.

Most new road bikes that I see sold these days are set up with
unfeasibly low handlebars for 90 percent of humanity. Threadless
stems may be to blame here, since it's quick and easy for a shop to
build a bike quickly while sawing off "excess" steerer tube. Less
labor time, more bikes on the floor--everybody's happy, right? Except
the guy who wants to ride with his handlebars further up...they can't
un-cut the steerer for him!

Quoted message said:

I'll grant (lower-case G) that I'm new at this, though. I haven't
given up on a road bike yet.

Quoted message said:

If you really desire the "sit up and beg", bolt-upright position, get
yourself a pair of riser bars, or even old North Road pattern
handlebars (you know, like the ones on old Raleigh 3-speeds).

I must defend my Wicked Witch of the West handlebars. I have North
Road bars on one of my mountain bikes and love them. I have them set
up level with the saddle, far from a "sit up and beg" position.

I'd love North Road handlebars on an old-fashoned roadster, y'know,
one with super-slack 65 degree parallel angles. Flying Pigeon style.

-Luigi

Quoted message said:

Cheers,
Steve

Luigi de Guzman said:

Quoted message said:

My observation is that on the drops one's reach is noticeably farther
forward from the stem than it would be on flat bars, reducing the
effective uprightness gained by raising the stem.

Yes. But re-read the quoted passage: I was talking about comfort on
the tops and on the hoods--which I have compared favourably with your
flat-bar setup.

ACK! You're right of course. I was thinking HOODS but wrote DROPS.
It was late / I'm a dork [choose one].

I stand by my corrected statement, however:
"My observation is that on the [HOODS] one's reach is noticeably
farther forward from the stem than it would be on flat bars, reducing
the effective uprightness gained by raising the stem."

Even if on the same plane as the saddle, the position on the HOODS is
a good 3-5 inches forward of where hands on a flat bar would be,
relative to the stem.

Quoted message said:

One more merit of drops: wrist position. Stand up, with your arms
loose. now, bend both arms at the elbows to about 90 degrees--note
the position your wrists fall into.

A-friggin-MEN. Wrists are in a good position on the HOODS as well.
This is one big reason why finding/making a road bike to fit me is
still worth my effort.

Thanks,
Steve