I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring bike. The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in case anyone cares). As I was paying for it I opened the box to check for the service instructions, which were missing. I said I was wondering about the torque specs and the guy at the register said 30 ft.lbs.
This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug through my stack of old service instructions and found the ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years ago. It says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I torqued the drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that on the UN71 the adapter (that's what the non-drive side sleeve is called in the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is plastic. I was concerned about the possibility of stripping it, so I torqued it until it "felt right" which turned out to be about 30 ft.lbs.
Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying around? If so , what are the torque specs?
I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring bike. The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in case anyone cares). As I was paying for it I opened the box to check for the service instructions, which were missing. I said I was wondering about the torque specs and the guy at the register said 30 ft.lbs.
This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug through my stack of old service instructions and found the ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years ago. It says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I torqued the drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that on the UN71 the adapter (that's what the non-drive side sleeve is called in the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is plastic. I was concerned about the possibility of stripping it, so I torqued it until it "felt right" which turned out to be about 30 ft.lbs.
Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying around? If so , what are the torque specs?
I don't know about the UN53 specifically, but the BB-UN52 also has a resin (what most people call plastic) adapter. The specs for the UN52 say that both the adapter and the main body's tightening torque is 50-70 Nm (435-608 in. lbs.).
I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring bike. The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in case anyone cares). As I was paying for it I opened the box to check for the service instructions, which were missing. I said I was wondering about the torque specs and the guy at the register said 30 ft.lbs.
This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug through my stack of old service instructions and found the ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years ago. It says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I torqued the drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that on the UN71 the adapter (that's what the non-drive side sleeve is called in the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is plastic. I was concerned about the possibility of stripping it, so I torqued it until it "felt right" which turned out to be about 30 ft.lbs.
Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying around? If so , what are the torque specs?
I don't know about the UN53 specifically, but the BB-UN52 also has a resin (what most people call plastic) adapter. The specs for the UN52 say that both the adapter and the main body's tightening torque is 50-70 Nm (435-608 in. lbs.).
I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs on, in my opinion.
I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs on, in my opinion.
If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).
"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<RreHc.43519$MB3.34197@attbi_s04>...
Quoted message said:
"ZeeExSixAre" <[email hidden]> wrote
Quoted message said:
I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs on, in my opinion.
If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).
There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-wrench trick:
"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<RreHc.43519$MB3.34197@attbi_s04>...
Quoted message said:
"ZeeExSixAre" <[email hidden]> wrote
Quoted message said:
I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs on, in my opinion.
If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).
There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-wrench trick:
I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs on, in my opinion.
If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).
Works for hollow spindles, unfortunately UN53 is solid, as are all the BB's on my dozen or so family bikes...
I think Nick is suggesting a bolt with the same threads as the crank bolt (can't just now recall offhand what that is), only longer. Use that to secure the BB tool in the splines.
BTW, that's a method I use to hold loose bearing balls in place on the fixed side of a BB while I'm dropping balls into the adjustable side. I have a short tube (about an inch or so) sawn off an old handlebar, and just use a crank bolt and large washer to hold things in place.
Works for hollow spindles, unfortunately UN53 is solid, as are all the BB's
on
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
my dozen or so family bikes...
I think Nick is suggesting a bolt with the same threads as the crank bolt (can't just now recall offhand what that is), only longer. Use that to secure the BB tool in the splines.
FWIW, that was what I was recommending, he linked the Park page which shows using a Q/R with a hollow spindle. I guess that works if the Q/R & BB tool are the right size (I suppose you could space them out with washers, too).
