Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Ti frames & loctite removal

Started by Karl · · Last activity · 6 posts · 337 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
6 July 2004
Last activity
7 July 2004
Original author
Karl
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6
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  1. hi all

    I have a frame/BB that required some of the blue (medium) loctite to
    get the BB cup to stay in place. I am now having trouble removing the
    BB. Loctite says to heat the joint to 325 to dissolve the loctite -
    anyone know if this is ok for a Ti (Litespeed) frame? Are their other
    ways to do it? Will a lower temp help? I was going to set up my
    campstove in the driveway and give the BB shell a steam bath for a few
    minutes to try to loosen it up, I have already tried acetone but it
    obviously does not get far into the joint.

    TIA
    Karl

  2. Karl said:

    hi all
    I have a frame/BB that required some of the blue (medium) loctite to get
    the BB cup to stay in place. I am now having trouble removing the BB.
    Loctite says to heat the joint to 325 to dissolve the loctite - anyone
    know if this is ok for a Ti (Litespeed) frame? Are their other ways to
    do it? Will a lower temp help? I was going to set up my campstove in the
    driveway and give the BB shell a steam bath for a few minutes to try to
    loosen it up, I have already tried acetone but it obviously does not get
    far into the joint.
    TIA Karl

    Careful with the heat if the BB cup is aluminum because 325 will
    definitely kill the temper of the aluminum and might make it prone to
    stripping.

    There is another bad thing going on here and that is oxidation of
    the aluminum from galvanic action. Yes, even if you used
    threadlocker, the aluminum is in contact with the Ti, setting up a
    dissimilar metal corrosion problem. Use ammonia solution to dissolve
    the oxidized aluminum.

    Since aluminum has a higher expansion coefficient than Ti, try chilling
    the frame to break the bond. You should be able to get it loose with a
    few pounds of dry ice. Wrap the frame in rags to insulate it, leaving
    only the bottom bracket exposed. Modify a cheap styro cooler to fit the
    frame and pack it in dry ice. You can get an even more severe chill by
    adding alcohol to the crumbled dry ice. Oh, do this OUTSIDE as the
    carbon dioxide can get dangerously high. At least leave a door open
    since CO2 sinks and will flow out. Put the dry ice in a towel and hit
    with a hammer to break. Funnel the pieces into your cooler.

    The beauty here is aluminum actually gets STRONGER as it is chilled. Be
    careful of your wrenches because they get brittle at low temperatures.
    And as always, wear heavy gloves and safety glasses. Dry ice fragments
    are quite damaging to your eyes.

    --

  3. Weisse Luft said:

    Careful with the heat if the BB cup is aluminum because 325 will
    definitely kill the temper of the aluminum and might make it prone to
    stripping.

    Not to mention that aluminum expands more than titanium when heated,
    so the BB will be even tighter when heated. He might get away with
    focused heating of the frame's BB shell and then rurning the BB out
    before IT heats up... but I like your dry ice idea!

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $695 ti frame

  4. karl-<< I have a frame/BB that required some of the blue (medium) loctite to
    get the BB cup to stay in place. I am now having trouble removing the
    BB. >><BR><BR>

    No surprise there-

    karl<< Are their other
    ways to do it? Will a lower temp help? >><BR><BR>

    try a lower temp, like from a hairdryer.

    When ya put a new one in, use grease and torque, perhaps a wee bit of teflon
    tape on the threads, NEVER any loctite.

    Peter Chisholm
    Vecchio's Bicicletteria
    1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535
    http://www.vecchios.com
    "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  5. Mark Hickey said:
    Weisse Luft said:

    Careful with the heat if the BB cup is aluminum because 325 will
    definitely kill the temper of the aluminum and might make it prone to
    stripping.


    Not to mention that aluminum expands more than titanium when heated, so
    the BB will be even tighter when heated. He might get away with focused
    heating of the frame's BB shell and then rurning the BB out before IT
    heats up... but I like your dry ice idea!
    Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com/http://www.habcycles.com Home of the
    $695 ti frame

    Thanks for the addition! I would recommend liquid nitrogen but its a bit
    tricker to handle. I had a stuck seatpost problem a few years ago and
    had access to liquid nitrogen...I suspended the frame above a styro
    Dewar of liquid N2 and filled it so the seat post was immersed. After a
    few minutes, the aluminum had shrunk and fell out.

    The seatpost was trashed from the owner's application of a slide hammer
    to free it. He even drilled a cross hole and bolted a section of square
    tube to affix the slide hammer for a second time.

    Soaking in ammonia for a few days (steel or Ti frames ONLY!)
    didn't work.

    --

  6. Mark Hickey <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Weisse Luft said:

    Careful with the heat if the BB cup is aluminum because 325 will
    definitely kill the temper of the aluminum and might make it prone to
    stripping.

    Not to mention that aluminum expands more than titanium when heated,
    so the BB will be even tighter when heated. He might get away with
    focused heating of the frame's BB shell and then rurning the BB out
    before IT heats up... but I like your dry ice idea!

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $695 ti frame

    Yeah I looked up the thermal coefficients yesterday after I posted and
    realized that I was setting up competing effects. I am continuing to
    soak it with some penetrant and will try the cold treatment tonight -
    let you know how it goes.

    Thanks
    Karl

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