stuck free/wheel

Rob said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike...It is the
two prong suntour type..I have the correct tool..but it is stuck on the
hub...yes it is the thread on type..it is on a old solid disk wheel ( Road
Bike ) so I don't want to use to much force..is there a trick to get these
off ?

Use a bench vise to hold the tool itself. Be sure that you are turning
in the right direction- counterclockwise when the tool is in a bench
vise.

Quoted message said:

In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening ?

Grease the threads of the freewheel and the hub. Every year or two be
sure to pull the freewheel and regrease.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike...It is the
two prong suntour type..I have the correct tool..but it is stuck on the
hub...yes it is the thread on type..it is on a old solid disk wheel (

Road

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Bike ) so I don't want to use to much force..is there a trick to get

these

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

off ?

Use a bench vise to hold the tool itself. Be sure that you are turning
in the right direction- counterclockwise when the tool is in a bench
vise.

Hi I tried the bench vice with no luck..should I try and spray some wd-40 on
the threads from the other side ?

Rob

You could dis-assemble the freewheel and apply some heat to it from a propane torch.

Lewis.

**************

"Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<A96Fc.928793$Pk3.886700@pd7tw1no>...

Quoted message said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike...It is the
two prong suntour type..I have the correct tool..but it is stuck on the
hub...yes it is the thread on type..it is on a old solid disk wheel ( Road
Bike ) so I don't want to use to much force..is there a trick to get these
off ? In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening ?

Thanks

Rob

Rob said:

Hi I tried the bench vice with no luck..should I try and spray some wd-40 on
the threads from the other side ?

Rob

I'd get some liquid wrench or other penetrating oil other than wd-40.
Keep applying it from both sides. After that, I don't know.

This question came up in the last few months and there was a
discussion of the best ways to deal with this problem by people with
much more experience than me. You should google it.

Rob said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike...It is the
two prong suntour type..I have the correct tool..but it is stuck on the
hub...yes it is the thread on type..it is on a old solid disk wheel ( Road
Bike ) so I don't want to use to much force..is there a trick to get these
off ? In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening ?

I assume that you have the correct tool in hand, and that the
freewheel's mating surfaces for the tool are undamaged; if so, take
the wheel and the tool to the nearest automotive repair shop and ask
them to spin the freewheel off with an impact wrench. I have yet to
see a freewheel that could resist this approach as long as it had
intact removal splines or recesses.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Surrealism is a pectinated ranzel.

In article <Ox7Fc.965048$oR5.453025@pd7tw3no>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Hi I tried the bench vice with no luck..should I try and spray some wd-40 on
the threads from the other side ?

Go to your local car parts place and get a can of P-Blaster. It is much
better than Wd-40 when it comes to getting parts loose.
------------
Alex

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

You could dis-assemble the freewheel and apply some heat to it from a propane torch.

Lewis.

Wrong strategy- assuming the freewheel body is steel and the hub is
aluminum, the hub will expand more than the freewheel when heat is
applied. This will lock the parts together even more than they are
now.

It would be good to know what kind of "disk" wheel the OP has, also.
Many of them have hubs that are bonded (aka glued) to composite parts.
Heat would probably ruin the glue.

If it's really resistant, I'd try filling the space between the right
side of the axle and the freewheel with penetrating oil and then
letting it sit overnight. After that, I'd try again with the bench
vise.

FWIW: I've seen a disk wheel (an old Sugino honeycomb core unit) where
the hub was ripped away from the rest of the wheel after an attempt
was made to remove the freewheel. You are wise to be cautious.

Jeff

On 2 Jul 2004 09:50:07 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Wills)

Quoted message said:

Wrong strategy- assuming the freewheel body is steel and the hub is
aluminum, the hub will expand more than the freewheel when heat is
applied. This will lock the parts together even more than they are
now.

Cool it, then, with an inverted can of air duster or a CO2 inflator.
--
Rick Onanian

Use the skewer to clamp the freewheel tool down, just loose enough so you
can get about 1/4 turn out of it.
You should be able to turn it at this point, with a large wrench on the f/w.

-pete

"Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:A96Fc.928793$Pk3.886700@pd7tw1no...

Quoted message said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike...It is the
two prong suntour type..I have the correct tool..but it is stuck on the
hub...yes it is the thread on type..it is on a old solid disk wheel ( Road
Bike ) so I don't want to use to much force..is there a trick to get these
off ? In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening

?

Quoted message said:

Thanks

Rob

Rob Marathon said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike. It is
the two prong SunTour type. I have the correct tool but the
freewheel is stuck on the hub. It is the thread on type and is on
an old solid disk wheel so I don't want to use too much force. Is
there a trick to get these off?

That it is a two tab remover isn't so good because that may shear the
tabs. However, as has been suggested, put the remover tool in a solid
bench vise, tighten the remover onto the face of the freewheel using
the QR skewer of the wheel and apply torque to the wheel in the mode
of a steering wheel. In this way both tabs are stressed and the
chance of stripping the freewheel tabs is reduced. Note that the QR
thread is a different pitch than the freewheel and must be backed out
once the freewheel loosens or you will strip the threads on the QR as
it gets extremely tight.

This removal requires a great torque and as suggested, freezing the
hub may help. I have always succeeded in getting freewheels of except
where the tabs were sheared off. IN that case the freewheel must be
disassembled on the wheel by removing the bearing cone, the cover with
two small bores in it. This is a left hand thread and is removed by
using a punch that fits into one of these holes and a hammer. Once
removed the rest of the freewheel outer body comes off, spilling pawls
and 1/8" bearing balls all over.

Using a large plumber's pipe wrench the inner body comes of relatively
easily. Throw the whole mess away and get a better freewheel if you
must use that wheel again. This may not be easy because such
freewheels or ones similar are no longer made for your bicycle.

Quoted message said:

In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening?

Lubricate the threads with 90W or 140W gear lubricant and use only
freewheels that also offer a good remover tool.

Jobst Brandt
[email hidden]

Rob Marathon said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike. It is
the two prong SunTour type. I have the correct tool but the
freewheel is stuck on the hub. It is the thread on type and is on
an old solid disk wheel so I don't want to use too much force. Is
there a trick to get these off?

That it is a two tab remover isn't so good because that may shear the
tabs. However, as has been suggested, put the remover tool in a solid
bench vise, tighten the remover onto the face of the freewheel using
the QR skewer of the wheel and apply torque to the wheel in the mode
of a steering wheel. In this way both tabs are stressed and the
chance of stripping the freewheel tabs is reduced. Note that the QR
thread is a different pitch than the freewheel and must be backed out
once the freewheel loosens or you will strip the threads on the QR as
it gets extremely tight.

This removal requires a great torque and as suggested, freezing the
hub may help. I have always succeeded in getting freewheels off
except where the tabs sheared off. In that case the freewheel must be
disassembled on the wheel by removing the bearing cone, the cover with
two small bores in it. This is a left hand thread and is removed by
using a punch that fits into one of these holes and a hammer to drive
it around to loosen it. Once removed, the rest of the freewheel outer
body with sprockets will come off, spilling pawls and 1/8" bearing
balls all over.

Using a large plumber's pipe wrench on the body, it can be removed
relatively easily. Throw the whole mess away and get a better
freewheel if you must use that wheel again. This may not be easy
because such freewheels or ones similar are no longer made for your
bicycle.

Quoted message said:

In the future how can one take steps to prevent this from happening?

Lubricate the threads with 90W or 140W gear lubricant and use only
freewheels that offer a good remover tool, four pronged or splined.

Jobst Brandt
[email hidden]

Rick Onanian said:

(Jeff Wills) said:

Wrong strategy- assuming the freewheel body is steel and the hub is
aluminum, the hub will expand more than the freewheel when heat is
applied. This will lock the parts together even more than they are now.

Cool it, then, with an inverted can of air duster or a CO2 inflator.
--
Rick Onanian

Better yet, you should be able to find a block of dry ice. Chill the
entire freewheel by setting it on the block and cover with a towel for
a few minutes. This may work but if it doesn't, take the cogs off and
carefully apply aqua ammonia to the threaded joint. This will dissolve
any aluminum oxide that may have formed on the steel/aluminum thread
contact pair.

--

Dan,
When I service my cassette I use an air ratchet like used in autobody shop.
I hold the cassette with a gloved hand and the with the other hand operate
the air ratchet. (for removal only) If you can figure a way to attatch one
of these kind of air tools it might help you get the thing apart. (no
guarantees)
I think the kind of removal tool for your cassette/freewheel is locked into
a vise and then you turn the wheel to remove. (lots of force) If you can get
the air hammer thing to work it would be great.
Hope this helps.
Greg
"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Rob said:

Hi I tried the bench vice with no luck..should I try and spray some wd-40

on

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the threads from the other side ?

Rob

I'd get some liquid wrench or other penetrating oil other than wd-40.
Keep applying it from both sides. After that, I don't know.

This question came up in the last few months and there was a
discussion of the best ways to deal with this problem by people with
much more experience than me. You should google it.

Thanks for all your help..but I still can`t get it off...I have tried the
liquid wrench and the bench vice....with the remover snug with an old
skewer...and yes I am turning the correct way...I was wondering should I use
a BIG wrench with a pipe on the end ? would I get more torque than using the
vice ? I am scared to take it to the bike shop as I am afraid they may wreck
the disk..it is a honey comb type disk..kinda like an aerosports
disk..however this disk was made at the University of Texas by some student
a few year back as a class project..he did a good job in making it.

Rob

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hi I have a old 6 speed free wheel that is stuck on the bike. It is
the two prong SunTour type. I have the correct tool but the
freewheel is stuck on the hub. It is the thread on type and is on
an old solid disk wheel so I don't want to use too much force. Is

Rob said:

Thanks for all your help..but I still can`t get it off...I have tried the
liquid wrench and the bench vice....with the remover snug with an old
skewer...and yes I am turning the correct way...I was wondering should I use
a BIG wrench with a pipe on the end ? would I get more torque than using the
vice ? I am scared to take it to the bike shop as I am afraid they may wreck
the disk..it is a honey comb type disk..kinda like an aerosports
disk..however this disk was made at the University of Texas by some student
a few year back as a class project..he did a good job in making it.

ive taken em off with an air chisel, with a pointy end attachment. the
combination of vibration and air hammering does the trick.

"Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<zHMFc.20089$P7.17871@pd7tw3no>...

Quoted message said:

Thanks for all your help..but I still can`t get it off...I have tried the
liquid wrench and the bench vice....with the remover snug with an old
skewer...and yes I am turning the correct way...

Put some effort into it! If you haven't gotten it off in a vise using
all your might, you aren't strong enough. Have someone help you twist
the sucker off. I've never seen a freewheel that two people can't
either break free, or destroy the tool and splines trying.
It is not challenging to do this. You're thinking too hard and
flexing too little.

-Vee

Rob said:

Thanks for all your help..but I still can`t get it off...I have tried the
liquid wrench and the bench vice....with the remover snug with an old
skewer...and yes I am turning the correct way...I was wondering should I use
a BIG wrench with a pipe on the end ? would I get more torque than using the
vice ? I am scared to take it to the bike shop as I am afraid they may wreck
the disk..it is a honey comb type disk..kinda like an aerosports
disk..however this disk was made at the University of Texas by some student
a few year back as a class project..he did a good job in making it.

-snip-

If the tool is properly mounted in the freewheel and secured
with a skewer, and if the tool is held firmly in a bench
vise, just get someone else to lend a hand while you briskly
and forcefully unscrew the wheel. It will go. Next time use
an anti-sieze compound on the threads.

I'm curious - was that Texas wheel called a "CMXL" wheel?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Freewheels suck all the precautions that can be used
don't help. Pedaling force tightens that freewheel. The best is to
replace that wheel with a freehub wheel and cassettte. I have one
freewheel left and when that goes it will be replaced also. I still
have a hub that so much force was used trying to get the freewheel
off the spokes broke. My next move is to cut and slit it free.

I MTB 2004

Although I must admit there were a few that were difficult, in years
of shop experience, there was never a freewheel I could not remove.
The right (sometimes brand new) tool, a skewer and a vice were all
that were ever needed. Now, if someone DID cut the spokes, thats
another problem all-together.

Note that there are some freewheel designs that made the chore of
removal more difficult than others, and if someone went at the
freewheel with the wrong tool or without tightening down with a
skewer, it may hose the notches. THEN, you may be ready for a new
wheel. All in all, it is - as usual - a judgement call. Is it worth
taking the time and money (assuming you are paying a shop to do it) to
remove the old freewheel, or would that cost be better spent on a new
wheel and cassette? Definitely consider those options before worrying
about removal.

Quoted message said:

Freewheels suck all the precautions that can be used
don't help. Pedaling force tightens that freewheel. The best is to
replace that wheel with a freehub wheel and cassettte. I have one
freewheel left and when that goes it will be replaced also. I still
have a hub that so much force was used trying to get the freewheel
off the spokes broke. My next move is to cut and slit it free.

I MTB 2004