Help with fitting simplex LJ front derailleur

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS part(99p), but I
can't work out how to fit it.

The actuating arm seems to be built for bottom pull, that's the way
the cable seems to fit, but the arm needs to be pulled up from the top
to move the derailleur out against the spring. It doesn't seem
possible to fit the cable like this as the mounting bracket would foul
the cable.

See http://www.bikeville.com/morepages/simplexfront.html for picures
(mine is exactly like this except with hex bolts on fastener and mine
was a lot, lot cheaper).

Can someone with a long memory or an old bike help me out?

Andrew Webster

cablestop for outercable is on the lever, inner cable clamps in the
housing, trouser catches the protruding cable end
--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS part(99p), but I
can't work out how to fit it.
=20
The actuating arm seems to be built for bottom pull, that's the way
the cable seems to fit, but the arm needs to be pulled up from the top
to move the derailleur out against the spring. It doesn't seem
possible to fit the cable like this as the mounting bracket would foul
the cable.

It's actually "bottom push!" It expects a short loop of housing running =

from a stop near the bottom of the down tube. The inner cable goes=20
through the moveable arm, straight up into the body of the changer,=20
where it's secured by a grub screw that presses against the side of it.

Quoted message said:

=20
See http://www.bikeville.com/morepages/simplexfront.html for picures
(mine is exactly like this except with hex bolts on fastener and mine
was a lot, lot cheaper).

The setscrew that holds the cage to the plunger acts as the low gear=20
limit stop, set this first, because it affects both high and low=20
adjustment.

The slot head screw that faces to the right is the high gear limit stop.

If yours has a plastic clamp to hold it to the seat tube, be VERY gentle =

tightening the 8 mm bolts that hold it on, these clamp parts are easy to =

break, especially as the plastic will have become somewhat embrittled=20
over the last 30 years or so.

If it's reluctant to upshift, it often helps to bend the front of the=20
inner cage plate to the right a bit with an adjustable spanner.

See also: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment

Sheldon "Those Were Horrible Front Mechs" Brown
+----------------------------------------------------------+
| La derni=C0re chose qu'on trouve en faisant un ouvrage, |
| est de savoir celle qu'il faut mettre la premi=C0re. |
| (The last thing one knows in constructing a work is |
| what to put first.) --Pascal |
+----------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS part(99p), but I
can't work out how to fit it.

Quoted message said:

It's actually "bottom push!" It expects a short loop of housing running

All perfectly logical once it's explained, but I just couldn't fathom
it (I had fixed on the idea that the arm held the inner via a nipple).

Thanks to all for the help. I will give this a try, though I am
getting the message from a replies that, even for 99p, this wan't
really such a bargain after all.

Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Andrew Webster