wheel dishing correction?

g.daniels said:

IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the cassette
side, is it possibleor effective without compromise to just tighten
the other side to bring the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less.
Tightening that other side would then bring my rims torque on the
non-cassette side up a to a more acceptable level.
or does "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out
of radial round or 3)....??

You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by a similar
amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made them out of scrap
materials in the past).

G.Daniels said:

IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the cassette
side, is it possibleor effective without compromise to just tighten
the other side to bring the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less.
Tightening that other side would then bring my rims torque on the non-
cassette side up a to a more acceptable level. or does "cheating"
caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out of radial round
or 3)....??

Yes, it is acceptable. You should check the true, tension balance, and
care for spoke wind-up on the non-drive side as you do it. I suggest you
try tightening the non-drive nipples in 1/4 turn increments....
overshoot by a 1/2 turn or more to insure you remove wind-up... in other
words, tighten 3/4 turn and loosen 1/2 turn each spoke on the non-drive
side. Check the wheel for true, centering, tension balance per-side...
and repeat as required. This process is quite normal in finishing a
wheel. Usually tension balance and radial true does NOT change much in
the final stages of centering.. and neither does the lateral truing.

--

Zog The Undeniable said:

You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by a similar
amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made them out of scrap
materials in the past).

Not in my experience. Turns to tighten on the non drive side move
the rim more toward that side than than a turn to loosen on the drive
side.

g.daniels said:

IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the cassette
side, is it possibleor effective without compromise to just tighten
the other side to bring the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less.
Tightening that other side would then bring my rims torque on the
non-cassette side up a to a more acceptable level.
or does "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out
of radial round or 3)....??

I don't look upon that as cheating.
As long as the rim is not so stressed as being on the verge of tacoland
you should be OK.
Bring the non drive side spokes tighter a quarter turn per revolution
keeping track of your progress by the valve hole and the coat hanger
clamped to the seatstay.
Keep an eye on it just in case something strange is happening as you go,
but I think you will be problem free.

One last thing, watch for the spokes extending beyond the nipple heads.
If this happens damage to the rim tape or tube may occur.
File or grind as necessary.

Don't forget to stress relieve, put your feet up hava beer.

Marcus

Zog The Undeniable said:

g.daniels said:

IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the cassette
side, is it possibleor effective without compromise to just tighten
the other side to bring the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less.
Tightening that other side would then bring my rims torque on the
non-cassette side up a to a more acceptable level.
or does "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out
of radial round or 3)....??

You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by a similar
amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made them out of scrap
materials in the past).

I have details of my self-built dishing tool, with drawings and photo,
on my website (www.acampbell.org.uk/cycling/).

Anthony

--
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http://www.acampbell.org.uk (book reviews and articles)
Email: replace "www." with "ac@"

datakroll-<< IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the
cassette
side, is it possibleor effective without compromise to just tighten
the other side to bring the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less. >><BR><BR>

A guy that used to work for BPP/DT, Tim Breen, who taught the DT wheelbuilding
course, taught you to build the right side completely, round, true and
tensioned, but not dished. Then 'pull' the rim over to dish w/o touching the
right side, but tightening the left side spokes.. Tough to do, but you can
correct dish with left side tension alone w/o problem.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"