When To Replace Drivetrain???

Ryan Bates said:

hi, i can't figure out if my drive train is too worn or not. are
there standard measurements that could help me out? i have dura ace
components. isn't there some kind of chain length check? my chain for
12 links from pin to pin is just a tad over 12 1/16", so i couldn't
remember if that's too much stretch or not.

You're right at the point where you should replace the chain.

Quoted message said:

if i do need to replace
the chain then, do i need to replace chainrings and cassette as well
for them to mesh well????

Usually not. If you replace the chain before it gets too worn, you won't
cause excess wear on the cassette and chainrings.

If the casssette cogs are worn, the new chain will skip on them. A cassette
should outlast several chains, and chainrings should last even longer.

Art Harris

Ryan Bates said:

hi, i can't figure out if my drive train is too worn or not. are there
standard measurements that could help me out? i have dura ace
components. isn't there some kind of chain length check? my chain for 12
links from pin to pin is just a tad over 12 1/16", so i couldn't
remember if that's too much stretch or not. if i do need to replace the
chain then, do i need to replace chainrings and cassette as well for
them to mesh well???? thanks! [email hidden]

Good timing! http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html should answer all your
questions on this topic. My short answer is to get a new Shimano DURA
ACE chain and use the old one to help you determine the correct length.
No new cassette or chain rings are needed unless you have damage.
During chain replacement is a good time for a complete cleaning of cogs
and rings.

--

How old, age,miles,dirt,ect.

I MTB 2004

Ryan Bates said:

hi, i can't figure out if my drive train is too worn or not. are
there standard measurements that could help me out? i have dura ace
components. isn't there some kind of chain length check? my chain for
12 links from pin to pin is just a tad over 12 1/16", so i couldn't
remember if that's too much stretch or not. if i do need to replace
the chain then, do i need to replace chainrings and cassette as well
for them to mesh well???? thanks! [email hidden]

As other posters have said, you should replace the chain now. BTW, that
12 1/16" measurement should be taken with it hanging down so all the
links are under tension. If you're measuring it laid flat on a table it
may well be much worse than you think.

My touring bike chain has just hit the limit after 2,000 miles (it rains
a lot here) so a new chain is in the post. There is no damage to the
rings or sprockets yet.

Zog The Undeniable said:

BTW, that
12 1/16" measurement should be taken with it hanging down so all the
links are under tension.

Normally, the chain would be measured on the bike, and the rear derailleur
would provide the tension.

Art Harris

thanks for the help, it's definitely time to get a new chain. but for
the cassette and chainrings, is there a good measurement for wear on
them, other than the "if they look like shark fins" method? thanks
much

Dave-<< My short answer is to get a new Shimano DURA
ACE chain a >><BR><BR>

High end plated chains don't perform any better than lower end, not as pretty,
chains. Use the cheapest compatible chain...like a PC-48 for 8s, PC-59 for 9s,
Wipperman for 10s...

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Dave-<< My short answer is to get a new Shimano DURA
ACE chain a >><BR><BR>

High end plated chains don't perform any better than lower end, not
as pretty, chains. Use the cheapest compatible chain...like a PC-48
for 8s, PC-59 for 9s, Wipperman for 10s...

Yup. If you like chrome, buy a Harley.

In your experience, how long should a chain last? I hear everything from 500 to
20000 miles from different people. In my case it's about 2000 miles (I think).
How about you?

Matt O.

Ryan Bates said:

hi, i can't figure out if my drive train is too worn or not. are there
standard measurements that could help me out? i have dura ace
components. isn't there some kind of chain length check? my chain for 12
links from pin to pin is just a tad over 12 1/16", so i couldn't
remember if that's too much stretch or not. if i do need to replace the
chain then, do i need to replace chainrings and cassette as well for
them to mesh well???? thanks! [email hidden]

fyi park makes a chain checker tool that you slip next to a link and let
if fall on the chain-if it drops all the way in it's time for a change.
cost me $8 at biketoolsetc.com

--

Ryan Bates said:

thanks for the help, it's definitely time to get a new chain. but for
the cassette and chainrings, is there a good measurement for wear on
them, other than the "if they look like shark fins" method? thanks
much

If the cassette is worn, a new chain will skip. If it doesn't skip, your
cassette is ok.

I see that Performance likes to sell a package deal of a chain and cassette.
That gives the impression that you should change both. It certainly won't
hurt, but it's not necessary.

As for chainrings on a road bike, you ought to _lots_ of miles before you
see pronounced hooking.

Art Harris

matt-<< In your experience, how long should a chain last? I hear everything
from 500 to
20000 miles from different people. In my case it's about 2000 miles (I think).
How about you? >><BR><BR>

Really tough to put a number on it. Really depends on how well the rider keeps
his chain and components clean. Also depends on if they wander around in
big/big or small/small combos, which we see a lot. We use a Rohloff chain
length checker and have seen chains with as little as 2500 miles and as much as
7500 miles measure the same...8, 9 and 10s chains.

If you wish to put a milage measurement on it, 2500-3000 miles but that may be
too early or too late.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

To check for chain stretch I lay the chain sideways on the bench and
pull it straight, alongside a plastic ruler. This is accurate enough
to show a 1/16 or 1/8 amount of stretch. I would tend to let a chain
go to the latter especially if you have to replace the cassette.

In the old days replacement sprockets were readily available for most
freewheels, so you could replace the outer one or two sprockets only.
Today this is not possible on the cheaper Shimano cassettes, except
perhaps the outer sprocket only.

I believe there is a market for slightly used chains which would avoid
having to replace the cassette. It ought to be possible for
manufacturers to produce a model which is a tad outside normal
tolerance, effectively pre-stretched, though perhaps money-saving
ideas are not pou;ar among manufacturers.

Cheers

Peter Shelton
Port Williams, NS