Breaking chain for fixed gear

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16" sprockets and chainrings.

I've used SRAM/SuperLink QR links on both my tourer and my ATB for
decades with no breakage problem, but fixie chains may be a special
case.

Break the chain anywhere with a chain tool. A chain is and endless,
uniform circle, there is no correct or incorrect link to "break" on it.

- -

"May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

Cam

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

It looks good and that alone inspires more confidence than the black $6
generic BMX chain.

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried, but I'm hoping it's a dot thousands rather than a
decimal point.
I joined it with the supplied old style 3 piece spring clip master link.

I have about four hundred kilometers on it in mostly clean dry
conditions and have not broken it YET.

Marcus

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 16:28:15 GMT, Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com may

have said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear.

There is neither a right nor a wrong point if the chain is not
presently connectd using a master link.

Quoted message said:

My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links.

If the lbs is selling weak quick links, they should find better ones.
I have never had a strength-related connector link failure with a
single-speed chain in 40 years of riding bikes. (I've had a couple of
the old-style ones become unclipped because of stuff hitting them and
knocking the spring clip off, but that's a different matter, and less
of a concern with the SRAM-style links.) Remember, regardless of the
fact that it's being used on a fixie, the load is always in the same
direction as far as the link is concerned, and unless the chainline is
running at an angle, the load is much more even than on a
derailleur-equipped bike. I would expect no more trouble with the
chain on a fixie than on any other bike, despite the fact that it's in
motion continuously when the bike is moving. If you don't learn to
modulate your leg action to avoid wasting power while riding, you'll
wear *yourself* out before you wear out the chain.

Quoted message said:

However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

A valid but in my opinion often overstated concern in this instance,
and part of the reason why the SRAM connectors are favored so widely.
On a single-speed setup, the side forces should not be present which
would tend to hasten failure due to pin looseness, so it's probably
less of a concern than on multispeeds. Since I've always used
connector links on replacement single-speeds of mine, I've never had
to worry about it.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

I'll second the nomination of the SRAM PC48.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed gear chain is much
less than a mountain bike chain. Chain tension is related to gear ratio.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

SRAM PC-48.

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

i think your 'LBS' should be your 'fLBS', former LBS. all these
special chain issues deal w/ those created by the HyperGlide shift
pattern on the sprockets that rip the chain apart.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

i'm getting good service w/ the KMC Z410(?), 8-USD. quiet unless
it needs a lube. it may be a full bushing, i forget.

Cam said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links.

[censored]. Even if it is, these are certainly strong enough. Remember
that some fat ol' guy struggling up a hill in his mountain bike, in his
granny, exerts more stress on the chain than Marty Nothstein in a sprint.
(Hint: It's because of the granny.) Lots of folks use these super-links
with no trouble, No reason to believe you won't.

Quoted message said:

However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Much more of a concern than the super-link is.

I use Sram. Since I have a bunch of 1/8" sprockets, I use the 1/8"
chain, the SR-1. $10-$15. If you have 3/32" sprockets and chainrings,
use the 8-speed chain, it's cheaper.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a
_`\(,_ | conclusion. -- George Bernard Shaw
(_)/ (_) |

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | This is my religion. There is no need for temples; no need for
_`\(,_ | complicated philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our
(_)/ (_) | temple. The philosophy is kindness. --The Dalai Lama

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is another story.

Greg

Quoted message said:

A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16" sprockets and chainrings.

I think you mean 3/32". That's standard derailleur chain. Track chainwheels and
cogs take either 1/8" or 3/32".
Phil Brown

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied snaplink.
People want to make this difficult/mysterious but it is not.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Not for a shiny chain :-), for comparison I think my last yucky black
genuine Shimano 9 speed chain cost me $19.00 at the LBS.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Yeah, IIRC 8.200 Newton is something less than 80lbs force.
I think the change to the use of the comma to define thousands did not
happen during translation to english for the packaging text.

Marcus

A Muzi said:

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied snaplink.
People want to make this difficult/mysterious but it is not.

That is it!!.....................The answer for the ??

Whether you use "road pitch" or "track pitch" 1/8" (track) chains are
strong, cheap and work great. They do make a little noise if you are running
road pitch gears

Peter Cole said:

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not
to use the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less
than regular links. However, with new chains, I worry about the
integrity of rejoined links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed gear chain is
much less than a mountain bike chain. Chain tension is related to gear
ratio.

I don't think this is entirely true. The torque about your rear axle is
related to gear ratio, but your chain couldn't care less what the rear
sprocket is (when considering tension anyway).
The tension in the top run of chain is determined only by the ratio of
your crank length to chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 01:49:00 GMT, "Jacobe Hazzard"

may have said:

Peter Cole said:

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not
to use the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less
than regular links. However, with new chains, I worry about the
integrity of rejoined links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed gear chain is
much less than a mountain bike chain. Chain tension is related to gear
ratio.

I don't think this is entirely true. The torque about your rear axle is
related to gear ratio, but your chain couldn't care less what the rear
sprocket is (when considering tension anyway).
The tension in the top run of chain is determined only by the ratio of
your crank length to chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

Yes, and the small ring on the typical mountain bike is *much* smaller
than the ring on a fixed-gear bike, while the crank length is
approximately the same. Assuming, then, that the rider is using the
small gear because it's really needed, the tension on the chain is
going to be much higher than it would be on a fixed-gear in the same
circumstances.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Jacobe Hazzard said:

The tension in the top run of chain is determined only by the ratio of
your crank length to chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

That's right, but still your average weekend warrier climbing hard in his
22-tooth granny gear is exerting a lot more force on that chain than a
track racer, and the chain does not break.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not
_`\(,_ | certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to
(_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein

B. C. Cletta said:

i'm getting good service w/ the KMC Z410(?), 8-USD. quiet unless
it needs a lube. it may be a full bushing, i forget.

Nope, it's bushingless, unfortunately. That's what I'm using at the moment
(too soon to rate it). Funny, it cost me $8 Canadian.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is farther away.

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:29:40 GMT, "G.T." <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is another story.

8.2 Newtons = 1.843 pound-force (lbf)

Michael J. Klein
Please replace mousepotato with asiancastings

Michael J. Klein said:

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:29:40 GMT, "G.T." <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

David L. Johnson said:

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:41 +0000, Marcus Coles wrote:

> My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8",
> nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

> According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track
> and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
> Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me
> a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is another story.

8.2 Newtons = 1.843 pound-force (lbf)

Have none of you seen the punctuation conventions of other countries? 8.200
in all probability means 8,200. Some of you need to get out more.

FYI - "foot-lbs"

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training