UK and Europe · Public discussion

Road Tyre Size

Started by TJ · · Last activity · 6 posts · 462 views

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UK and Europe
Published
10 June 2004
Last activity
11 June 2004
Original author
TJ
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6
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  1. I have 1.95 Knobblies on my MTB wheels and want to change them to Road
    tyres.

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on tyre width I have a
    choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would prefer the 1.6's

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the office across epsom
    downs and find that when descending I am unable to propel the bike as it
    coasts faster than the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all the time and just use
    the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets on the rear.

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that I have a better
    spread of much more useable gears do I just change the rear cassette, the
    front or both and to what ??????

    Thanks

    TJ

  2. TJ said:

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on tyre width I have a
    choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would prefer the 1.6's

    They ought to fit on, so get the ones you prefer.

    Quoted message said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the office across epsom
    downs and find that when descending I am unable to propel the bike as it
    coasts faster than the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all the time and just use
    the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets on the rear.

    If you're doing big climbs on the big wheel and only the wee cogs at the
    back it's entirely possible you're being a bit of a Masher. While MTBs'
    smallest gears are for really daft things the middle ring and bigger
    cogs at the back are more typically useful for big climbs on decent
    surfaces at usual road gradients. You might find that upping your
    cadence is a good idea as it's generally better for your knees and if
    you do longer rides it generally gives you rather more endurance.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that I have a better
    spread of much more useable gears do I just change the rear cassette, the
    front or both and to what ??????

    Cadence increases aside, you can do either or both of the above to
    fiddle the gearing. You'll generally need special tools to replace
    either so usually easiest to leave it with a bike shop and have them do
    the work.

    My tourer has a good spread of gears, from walking pace up to
    practically impossible to spin out. Big ring at the front is 52 tooth,
    wee one is a 30, at the back it's 11-34. Your mileage may vary, but
    that does just about anything I want.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  3. TJ said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the office across epsom
    downs and find that when descending I am unable to propel the bike as it
    coasts faster than the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all the time and just use
    the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets on the rear.

    Sounds like you need to pedal faster and push less - use the middle ring
    (assuming a triple). Your knees with thank you later...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that I have a better
    spread of much more useable gears do I just change the rear cassette, the
    front or both and to what ??????

    http://tranchant.plus.com/cycling/gears/

    --
    Mark.

  4. On 10/6/04 4:12 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Mark Tranchant said:
    TJ said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the office across epsom
    downs and find that when descending I am unable to propel the bike as it
    coasts faster than the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all the time and just use
    the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets on the rear.


    That brings tears to the eyes just thinking about it. You must really hate
    your knees. Practice spinning in low gears. Honestly.

    I used to ride around there and the climbs are quite steep.

    ...d

  5. TJ:

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that I have a better
    spread of much more useable gears do I just change the rear cassette, the
    front or both and to what ??????

    How many teeth are there on your big chainring? And what sprockets do you
    have on your cassette?

    I've been noticing recently that a lot of hybrid/mountain bikes people are
    riding on the road have what look like very small "big" chainrings - small
    enough in fact that spinning out on the flat is a likely scenario. If yours
    is one of these then no wonder you can't pedal fast enough on the descents -
    increasing your cadence *may* help, as others have suggested, but then again
    it may not. Unless you can get your cadence up near the 200rpm mark.

    The solution in this case would be to upgrade your chainset to one more
    suitable for road riding. Or get a proper road bike and save the mountain
    bike for going up mountains.

    d.

  6. TJ said:

    I have 1.95 Knobblies on my MTB wheels and want to change them to Road
    tyres.

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on tyre width I have a
    choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would prefer the 1.6's

    Definitely the 1.6" ones. They will have a better rounded profile on
    your rims, and the bike will corner more easily - plus they're unlikely
    to blow off if you put a lot of air in them.

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