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Ride Position

Started by Paul Davis · · Last activity · 9 posts · 384 views

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UK and Europe
Published
27 May 2004
Last activity
1 June 2004
Original author
Paul Davis
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9
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  1. I know that getting the correct ride position has a lot to do with personal
    preferance and type of riding done but would like a bit of advice.

    I ride manly on-road and lots of rough country roads and tracks and trails
    with some light off-road. I've always liked a fairly stretched position and
    ride a 20" On-One Inbred (mountain bike frame) which feels spot on for the
    sort of riding I do. The On-One site recommends 80-105mm stems for 20"
    Inbreds but I have a 110mm Easton EA50 stem with 10 degree rise fitted and
    On-One XC riser bars. At 6' tall this is a little on the long side according
    to On-One recommendations but feels right for the type of riding I do and
    came about after riding with an adjustable stem for a while.

    This gives a postion where my back is flat and roughly 40 degrees to
    upright, arms roughly 90 degree to the torso and a slight bend in the elbows
    with weight distributed (at a guess) roughly 60:40 saddle to bars. This
    seems to fit in with most articles on bicycle fit that I have read.

    When riding gently and looking at the scenery the position feels a tad
    stretched but when head down and hammering or pedaling out of the saddle it
    sometimes feels like I could do with an extra bit of length in the stem.

    I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a small amount of
    neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to come from raising the head to look
    forward (although it could just be the sudden increase in riding with the
    hot weather) and a slight tingling in my fingers after long, rough rides.

    I guess that no setup is optimum in all situation. What do people think?

    Thanks,
    PJay

  2. Paul Davis <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a small amount of
    : neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to come from raising the head to look
    : forward (although it could just be the sudden increase in riding with the
    : hot weather) and a slight tingling in my fingers after long, rough rides.

    Which sounds like your position is too long and/or too low. Though the neck
    thing could just be that you need to get used to the bike again, and the slight
    tingling could just be the effects of being offroad.

    Fit is a very personal thing, but I wonder if you should try a slightly less
    stretched position?

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
    "Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  3. Arthur Clune said:
    Paul Davis said:

    I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a small
    amount of neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to come from
    raising the head to look forward (although it could just be the
    sudden increase in riding with the hot weather) and a slight
    tingling in my fingers after long, rough rides.

    Which sounds like your position is too long and/or too low. Though
    the neck thing could just be that you need to get used to the bike
    again, and the slight tingling could just be the effects of being
    offroad.

    Fit is a very personal thing, but I wonder if you should try a
    slightly less stretched position?

    I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly long stem and the
    seat most of the way back. Do I want to move the seat forwards or the bars
    back? Does it make any odds?

  4. Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly long stem and the
    : seat most of the way back. Do I want to move the seat forwards or the bars
    : back? Does it make any odds?

    Or get a bigger big? Depends.

    Are you comfortable where you are?

    The common advice goes like this:

    1) Set saddle height so that your knee is just bent at the bottom of the stroke
    2) Set saddle fore/aft position so that a plumbline dropped from your knee lies over
    the pedal spindle with the cranks level. There's some scope for ambuigity here
    (front or rear of knee?) but I don't think it makes a lot of difference.
    3) Check saddle height again since you've just altered the effective height.
    4) Set distance to bars so that when you are riding on the hoods you can't see the
    front hub (ie handlebars and front hub) in line
    5) Set height of bars so that your back is at about 45 degrees to the vertical
    when on the hoods. Adjust the angle depending on your flexibility, belly size
    and fitness.

    That gives a basic road position. Then adjust to taste.

    More details here: http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm

    Most tourists and audaxes end up with a more upright positon. Short distance TT'ers
    a much, much lower one. MTB'ers will tend to use a shorter, more upright position to
    give better bike control in the rough stuff. etc, etc.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
    "Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  5. Arthur Clune said:
    Doki said:

    I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly long stem and
    the seat most of the way back. Do I want to move the seat forwards
    or the bars back? Does it make any odds?

    Or get a bigger big? Depends.

    Are you comfortable where you are?

    The common advice goes like this:

    1) Set saddle height so that your knee is just bent at the bottom of
    the stroke 2) Set saddle fore/aft position so that a plumbline
    dropped from your knee lies over the pedal spindle with the cranks
    level. There's some scope for ambuigity here (front or rear of knee?)
    but I don't think it makes a lot of difference. 3) Check saddle
    height again since you've just altered the effective height. 4) Set
    distance to bars so that when you are riding on the hoods you can't
    see the front hub (ie handlebars and front hub) in line 5) Set height
    of bars so that your back is at about 45 degrees to the vertical
    when on the hoods. Adjust the angle depending on your flexibility,
    belly size
    and fitness.

    That gives a basic road position. Then adjust to taste.

    More details here: http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm

    Most tourists and audaxes end up with a more upright positon. Short
    distance TT'ers a much, much lower one. MTB'ers will tend to use a
    shorter, more upright position to give better bike control in the
    rough stuff. etc, etc.

    Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit shorter. I'll
    experiment with moving the saddle first, after all, it's free.

  6. Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit shorter. I'll
    : experiment with moving the saddle first, after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct then the way to
    make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move the saddle.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
    "Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  7. "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit shorter. I'll
    : experiment with moving the saddle first, after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct then the way to
    make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move the saddle.

    I've no idea if it is, to be honest.

  8. Doki said:

    "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit shorter. I'll
    : experiment with moving the saddle first, after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct then the way to
    make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move the saddle.

    I've no idea if it is, to be honest.

    If that's the case you should set it up in accordance with Arthur's
    instructions before even thinking of using it to shorten the cockpit.
    Getting the saddle position wrong can lead to all sorts of biomechanical
    problems and injuries.
    --
    Michael MacClancy
    Random putdown - "He has no enemies, but is intensely disliked by his
    friends." -Oscar Wilde
    www.macclancy.demon.co.uk
    www.macclancy.co.uk

  9. Michael MacClancy said:

    If that's the case you should set it up in accordance with Arthur's
    instructions before even thinking of using it to shorten the cockpit.
    Getting the saddle position wrong can lead to all sorts of biomechanical
    problems and injuries.

    Hi Michael

    I agree with both you and Arthur and this one. Going with Arthur's 1-5
    instructions, I find that in general that my stems are too long. So,
    for me, assuming a more or less correct frame size, it's get the
    saddle in the right place and go from there.

    Having said that, the fitter I get (fitter meaning smaller gut!) the
    more stretched out I find comfortable, within reason.

    James

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