Chain Oiling

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight oil?
I spose the thin one 0W40?

From what I've been told, clean the chain with kerosene, and lube with a fine
oil. Wipe off excess.

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Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight
oil? I spose the thin one 0W40?

I reckon that special oils for bike chains is a big con job.

I just use Woolies sump oil and serve it up thru an oil can. I have had
this 4 litre container for 5 years now and also use it as the oil for my
lawnmower two stroke mix.

The chain doesn't seem to suffer. Had to replace one chain at 12000 Kms
because the rear cluster went and the LBS said "You have to replace the
chain as well". Whether that was another snow job or not, I will never
know.

This latest chain and cluster are ->11000Kms, no problems, but having said
that, Murphy says it will probably fail today :-)

Just squirt it on, and wipe off the excess which seems to remove the
accumulated dirt as well.

However if I was an importer of Super Galacto bike chain oil that I could
sell for $50.00 per cc, then I might have a different point of view.

Owen

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Greetings,
I wouldn't use car oil or machine oil on a bike chain at
all. It attracts tons of dirt on dusty roads. I have been using TriFlow
teflon lubricant for years. It washes off a bit easier, but attracts
much less filth. There are other lubricants you can check on at your
local bike shop. The only advantage with car oils is that for quantity
they are cheaper.
Regards,
Ray.

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight oil?
I spose the thin one 0W40?

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight
oil? I spose the thin one 0W40?

Hi Andrew

A high-tech multigrade synthetic oil such as M1 is meant for use i
car engines. Its chemistry, especially folding HC chains and it
additives, serve the purpose of protecting high performance engine
under long service intervals. Lubricating a chain does not requir
that fancy chemistry, unless you pump out like 6000 rpm in desert
around Alice Spring in temperatures around 100-1500 degrees (yes, 150
inside a turbocharger)!! Well, if you decide to use an engine oil t
lubricate your chain, and if you use M1 for your car/s, so yeah, wh
not use some left overs. Otherwise, any thin grade mineral oil wil
do. I have even seen people using sewing machine oil (due to lo
viscosity). But there is another aspect to lubricating the chain, IMO
You can read my post above

Cheers, Amir

-

Owen said:

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which
weight oil? I spose the thin one 0W40?

I reckon that special oils for bike chains is a big con job.
I just use Woolies sump oil and serve it up thru an oil can. I have had
this 4 litre container for 5 years now and also use it as the oil for my
lawnmower two stroke mix.
The chain doesn't seem to suffer. Had to replace one chain at 12000
Kms because the rear cluster went and the LBS said "You have to
replace the chain as well". Whether that was another snow job or not,
I will never know.
This latest chain and cluster are ->11000Kms, no problems, but having
said that, Murphy says it will probably fail today :-)
Just squirt it on, and wipe off the excess which seems to remove the
accumulated dirt as well.
However if I was an importer of Super Galacto bike chain oil that
I could sell for $50.00 per cc, then I might have a different
point of view.
Owen
-- ----------------------------------------------------------- -- __0
http://www.pcug.org.au/~rcook/rr.htmlhttp://www.pcug.org.au/~rcook/rr.h-
tml for rides _ \<,_ (_)./(_) http://weather.smh.com.au/weather/canberr-
a.htmlhttp://weather.smh.com.au/weather/canberra.html
------------------------------------------------------------
---

Hi Owen:

I think, if I may say, you're missing a point. Lubricating the chain is
not meant to maintain the chain only. It is also to maintain chain rings
and cogs. Due to the nature of work that these three components do, if
you lubricate them properly and if they are from the same grade of
components, chain has to go first. Averagely, rear cogs must last three
chains and front rings must last three cogs.

The fact that your chain outlast the cogs could suggest that the contact
surfaces of your cogs and chain rings are not protected enough.

Cheers, Amir.

--

Originally posted by amirm:

Quoted message said:

The fact that your chain outlast the cogs could suggest tha
the contact surfaces of your cogs and chain rings are no
protected enough

This is incorrect. What does chainrings and clusters in is a stretche
(worn-out) chain, as the chain no longer meshes properly with the teeth
Putting oil on the outside of the chain is asking for trouble, as gri
will adhere to the oil and make a really good grinding paste

The cause of chain stretch is simple; wear at the pivots. Keeping th
chain well oiled reduces this wear, and keeping an eye on chain stretc
(and chucking out what may otherwise seem to be a perfectly good chain
will make sure your clusters and chainwheels live to a ripe old age

The math is pretty simple. You could leave a worn chain on the bik
until it stuffs the whole drivetrain (say 10,000km), or go throug
four or five chains and one set of sprockets and chainwheels in abou
20-30,000km

Given the relative cost of chains and other drivetrain components, I'l
chuck my chain any day

Regards

Suz

-

Owen wrote:

....snip.....

Quoted message said:

I reckon that special oils for bike chains is a big con job.

Luddite {:-). I hope you are wearing your asbestos (sp?) suit {:-)

I guess you were not fooled by the Castrol "Oils aint Oils" campaign
either.

Just my 2c. Whenever the racers/roadies/etc start going on about oil,
just leave them to it. {:-).

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight
oil? I spose the thin one 0W40?

I think that the most important thing about chain lubricants is tha
there be some. And that it is clean. The actual lubricating job i
pretty undemanding. Chains don't get hot, run very fast (not when I'
turning it, anyway) or have huge pressures between parts. Just get som
oil into the inside bits and wipe it off the ourside parts where i
picks up dirt. Engine oil works well as do many others

Not keen on the idea of solid lubricants such as teflon particles o
waxes. The stuff probably works OK while it is there, but it can't flo
back if it is squeezed out. Makers of high tech parts that rely on soli
lubricants seem to find it necessary to plate with alloys of tin an
indium to keep the stuff in place. I don't see any bicycle chain
treated this way. Wax enthusiasts seem to need to apply the stuff prett
often. This is not practical if you do long rides

Suzy Jackson points out the need to replace chains when they elongat
due to wear if the proper life of sprockets and chain wheels is to b
obtained. Elongated chains no longer match the pitch of the sprocket
and move further up the teeth, where they wear pockets on the drivin
side of the tooth. Sound advice seems to be to use relativel
inexpensive chains and to discard them when they wear

John Retchfor

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suzyj said:

Originally posted by amirm:
This is incorrect. What does chainrings and clusters in is a stretched
(worn-out) chain, as the chain no longer meshes properly with the teeth.
Putting oil on the outside of the chain is asking for trouble, as grit
will adhere to the oil and make a really good grinding paste.
The cause of chain stretch is simple; wear at the pivots. Keeping the
chain well oiled reduces this wear, and keeping an eye on chain stretch
(and chucking out what may otherwise seem to be a perfectly good chain)
will make sure your clusters and chainwheels live to a ripe old age.
The math is pretty simple. You could leave a worn chain on the bike
until it stuffs the whole drivetrain (say 10,000km), or go through
four or five chains and one set of sprockets and chainwheels in about
20-30,000km.
Given the relative cost of chains and other drivetrain components, I'll
chuck my chain any day.
Regards,
Suzy

Not intending to get into any debate. But I cannot connect these two
chains wear out first (elongate, etc.) and they start wearing cogs (thi
is the point SuzyJ states), and a chain outlasts the cog (owen'
report). My maths's been always weak :

But come on, were' talking power transfer through metal on meta
contacts. We propose no wear, or no need for lubing? Then
theoretically, if we always keep the chain/s in a good shape, cog
should last forever

All statements in above postings agree that cogs wear out anyway. Ho
fast, is affected by the chain maintenance, but it's not all. Due to th
open set up of the drivetrain, it's lubrication and maintenance is fa
from ideal. I think everyone go about it in their own way

Cheers, Amir

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amirm said:

Not intending to get into any debate. But I cannot connect
these two: chains wear out first (elongate, etc.) and they
start wearing cogs (this is the point SuzyJ states), and a
chain outlasts the cog (owen's report). My maths's been always
weak 😄

If I can refer to the experts on these matters:

http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Sprockets will last longer if chains are replaced before they are
worn to the extent that the chain can only ever load up a single
sprocket tooth at any one time.

I like Mobil 1 0W40 oil, always applied to a clean dry chain.
This is arguably among the best general-purpose engine oils
available. It meets the harshest environmental demands specified
by engine manufacturers. Most of these are not important in a
chain lubrication context, but some properties (high lubricity,
low friction, exceptional thin-film shear-strength) are surely of
some advantage (however marginal).

John

God does it all have to be that hard? I could argue this point all da
long. Mobil 1 on a bike chain?? I wouldn't waste the $$$ using that ***
in my hi-performance engine let alone on my chain. I can concur that ye
99% of the wear of a drivetrain is cause by a stretched chain! I lov
throwing mine away cause i know it saves me $$$ on new cassettes an
chainrings even jockey wheels. Think about it a strected chain won't si
in the lowest point of the teeth on your chainrings, cassette or jocke
wheels. The longer it is (more stretched) the higher it will ride on th
teeth, giving it less and less support on the face of the teeth

Here's what to do. Aquire the following tools. 1 x ParkTool CC-2 (Chai
Checker (measures chain stretch)) 1 x Shimano HG Chainbreaker 1
Chainwhip 1 x Cassette Removing Tool 1 x Crank Puller (unless you've go
HOLLOWTECH II Like me) 1 x Shimano BUTT Plug (If you've got Octalink)
x 16mm Spanner 1 x 8mm Allen Key 1 x 5mm Allen Key 1 x ParkTool Cabl
Cutter 1 x Alloy Cable Crimps Shimano replacement chainpins O
SRAM/Connex 8/9/10Spd re-usable link (depending on how many gears u'v
got) 1 x Bottle of 'Pro-Link' chain lube (by far the best stuff ever
PERIOD) 1 x 20Litre Drum 'Mobil B1 Solvent' (Ring Mobil PetroGas) 1
Parts Brush 1 x Petrochemical parts cleaner with gravity oil/wate
filter and pump. 1 x LACKY/NUFNUF (you don't wanna get your own hand
dirty doin all this

Now everytime your chain gets really dirty, take it off, take u
cassette off, rear derailleur off, r/h chainwheel off. Clean all i
the Solvent. Blowing off with compressed air. [PLEASE NOTE: DON'
Submerge your pedals in the solvent, this stuff will dissolve an
traces of grease or oil and dissolve it in seconds, Same applies fo
Cassette Body, Bottom Bracket and any other NON-Serviceable items i
your cleaning

Then re-lubricate using Pro-Link making sure to wipe off excess and t
lube jockey wheels. Then everytime your chain gets to '1' on th
ParkTool CC-2. REPLACE it

If you do all this, like I do, you too can get 30000km out of
cassette, chainrings and jockeywheels. and still have them loo
RATHER new

If anyone disagrees with this you obviously don't ride the 20000km pe
year I do, rain, hail, snow, shine. With 9 or 10Spd Dura-Ace none th
less. This I not only do for my own bike, but I also do the above fo
dozens of state, national and world level riders who ride a hell of
lot more than I do

ANY QUESTIONS

-

My local bike shop advised against using teflon - saying that the teflon it
is a lubricant in itself. Instead they recommended a non-teflon bike oil.
Anything in this?

"Ray Peace" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Greetings,
I wouldn't use car oil or machine oil on a bike chain at
all. It attracts tons of dirt on dusty roads. I have been using TriFlow
teflon lubricant for years. It washes off a bit easier, but attracts
much less filth. There are other lubricants you can check on at your
local bike shop. The only advantage with car oils is that for quantity
they are cheaper.
Regards,
Ray.

Andrew Mitchell said:

Is Mobil 1 really the best way to lube ones chain. If so , which weight

oil?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I spose the thin one 0W40?

Andrew Steele said:

1 x Bottle of 'Pro-Link' chain lube (by far the best stuff ever. PERIOD)

ProLink is amazing stuff. No degreasing, clean cranks and cassett
all the time

Thanks to the Cheek Monkeys a Central (the only place I could find it)

-

Dominic Sansom said:

ProLink is amazing stuff. No degreasing, clean cranks and cassette
all the time.
Thanks to the Cheek Monkeys a Central (the only place I could find it).

You cam buy ProLink chain lube over the www from Cecil Walker Cycles in
Melbourne. I agree, it's the best stuff.

--

Spider1977 <[email hidden]> wrote in message
[email hidden]

Quoted message said:

Dominic Sansom said:

ProLink is amazing stuff. No degreasing, clean cranks and cassette
all the time.
Thanks to the Cheek Monkeys a Central (the only place I could

find it).

You cam buy ProLink chain lube over the www from Cecil Walker Cycles
in Melbourne. I agree, it's the best stuff.

I saw it at Abbotsford Cycles as well. I've never used it, though.

--

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Q: What is the most annoying thing on Usenet?

In Holland is somebody who sells a very good wax and it has many good
aspects:

- You don't need to lubricate as much as with oil
- The chain and cogs don't ware out that much so you can do a longer time
with them. Mountainbike under extreme conditions at least 2.000 km, roadbike
10.000 km
- The chain doesn't collect dirt so your cogs and derailleurwheels stay
clean
- It gives a splendid soft noice

Look at www.supremeblack.nl It is in Dutch but there are many
illustrations.

The theory is that the chain doesn't have to be lubricated on the outsite.
The chainlinks don't move on the cogs or the chainrings, but just make
contact. Unless the chain does not wear out more than 0,075 mm per link.
Test with Rohloff caliber. If the chain wear out more than 0,075 mm you get
relatively more pressure on less teeth and the cogs and chainwheels wear
out.
So keep the chain superdry on the outsite. The innerside of the chain need
to be lubricated because the pins are moving in the tons.

I was a testrider four years ago and since then I only use supremeblack on
my three bikes and I don't want anything else as oil or teflon anymore.

Excuse me for my bad English, but I speak better English than you speak
Dutch I think.

Hans

Ray Peace said:

I have been using TriFlow
teflon lubricant for years. It washes off a bit easier, but attracts much
less filth.

IIRC correctly there's two flavours of TriFlow, I can't
remember the names, but essentially it amount to a
summer and winter one. I think the winter one has a green lid.
The green-lid one is much thicker and seems to build up
quite a nice layer of kruft, I'm not sure I like it anymore,
but we toured on it every day for two months, so maybe we
got what we deserved.

-kt

Owen said:

I reckon that special oils for bike chains is a big con job.

I just use Woolies sump oil and serve it up thru an oil can. I have had
this 4 litre container for 5 years now and also use it as the oil for my
lawnmower two stroke mix.

Don't you find that lawn mowing takes away from your riding time though ?

I read a huge thread once about a guy who said he uses chainsaw bar oil
for a (northern hemispehere) snowy winter. The huge trail of posts
to the thread were basically: "Yeah me too". I would have thought it
would be too thick and sticky.

It could be a complete lie, but I swear I used to use fat dripping
from the sausages on my chain. This had two major drawbacks: firstly
whenever it got warm it smelled of BBQ, making me hungry...
That, and it attracted the dogs. 😉

-kt

Andrew Steele said:

Mobil 1 on a bike chain?? I wouldn't waste the $$$ using that ****
in my hi-performance engine let alone on my chain

Actually, I find my car (Suzuki Cappaccuino(sp?) 3cyl, 0.7l, turbo)
seems to run significantly better with Mobil-1 rather than
other synthetic oils... *shrug* Bloody expensive though, luckily
it only uses 3 litres 😉