Australia and New Zealand · Public discussion

wheel re build

Started by rickster · · Last activity · 13 posts · 371 views

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
6 January 2004
Last activity
12 January 2004
Original author
rickster
Posts
13
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  1. The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ? The spokes, to my naked
    eye, all look in good condtition and the wheels have remained true.

    RMan

  2. rickster:

    Quoted message said:

    The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

  3. presuming that you are using the same model rim agian, tape the old an
    the new rims together making sure that the valve holes line up in th
    same position and just swap the spokes over keeping the crossing an
    position indentical. use either spoke prep or boiled linseed oil as
    lube/thred lock

    cheer

    geoff

    -

  4. Jose Rizal said:
    Quoted message said:

    The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

    Why is that ?

    -kt

  5. kingsley:

    Quoted message said:
    Jose Rizal said:
    Quoted message said:

    The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

    Why is that ?

    Because if the original wheel has been built properly, then the spokes
    will have been seated properly, ie the spoke head elbows will have been
    bent towards the hub flanges, the touching crossed spokes will have been
    bent slightly around each other, and the spoke nipple ends will have
    been slightly bent towards the orientation of the nipples. If you
    re-use spokes and change their positioning, all these beneficial things
    will be counteracted with possible consequences on spoke life.

  6. geoffs <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    presuming that you are using the same model rim agian, tape the old and
    the new rims together making sure that the valve holes line up in the
    same position and just swap the spokes over keeping the crossing and
    position indentical. use either spoke prep or boiled linseed oil as a
    lube/thred lock.

    Good advice, although, you are assuming that I will actually do the
    rebuild. I do actually want to ride on these things y'know... 🙂

  7. kingsley said:
    Jose Rizal said:
    Quoted message said:

    The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

    Why is that ?

    The spokes develop a particular set (i.e. they are bent into position).
    Bending them to another position risks fatigue failure.

    The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt (who did I lend my copy to??? :-(...)
    explains all of this excellent detail. Jobst also hangs out in
    rec.bicycles.tech. It's probably also in the rec.bicycles.* FAQ.

    Dale

    --
    [email hidden]

  8. Jose Rizal wrote:
    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Because if the original wheel has been built properly, then the spokes
    will have been seated properly, ie the spoke head elbows will have been
    bent towards the hub flanges, the touching crossed spokes will have been
    bent slightly around each other, and the spoke nipple ends will have
    been slightly bent towards the orientation of the nipples. If you
    re-use spokes and change their positioning, all these beneficial things
    will be counteracted with possible consequences on spoke life.


    Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it
    up to be roughly the same tension as the others... no fancy-shmancy
    pre-bending for me :-) Am I in for trouble (none of the spokes I have
    replaced have failed yet)?

    &roo

  9. Andrew Swan:

    Quoted message said:

    Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it
    up to be roughly the same tension as the others... no fancy-shmancy
    pre-bending for me :-) Am I in for trouble (none of the spokes I have
    replaced have failed yet)?

    If you don't stress-relieve it, then it won't last as long as the ones
    that have been. When it will fail is anyone's guess, because it depends
    how often you ride, your weight, and what kind of terrain you ride on.
    When you tighten a new spoke, just pair it with the next parallel spoke
    on the same side and squeeze. You can still do that now and benefit.

  10. On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 21:49:28 GMT, Jose Rizal <_@_._> Wrote :

    Quoted message said:

    Andrew Swan:

    Quoted message said:

    Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it

    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    When you tighten a new spoke, just pair it with the next parallel spoke
    on the same side and squeeze. You can still do that now and benefit.

    Even if the "benefit" is the spoke going "ping" as it breaks. At least
    it didn't break half way through a decent ride miles from anywhere.

    Quoted message said:

    --

    BAH Humbug

  11. BAH:

    Quoted message said:

    On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 21:49:28 GMT, Jose Rizal <_@_._> Wrote :

    Quoted message said:

    Andrew Swan:

    Quoted message said:

    Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it

    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    When you tighten a new spoke, just pair it with the next parallel spoke
    on the same side and squeeze. You can still do that now and benefit.

    Even if the "benefit" is the spoke going "ping" as it breaks. At least
    it didn't break half way through a decent ride miles from anywhere.

    Huh? If your spoke broke when you squeezed it with another, then it was
    already fatigued. Even if you apply gorilla force to it, the nipple
    will break first before the spoke.

  12. Jose Rizal <_@_._> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    rickster:

    Quoted message said:

    The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
    to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
    to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

    I think I'm going to have a go at this, at least build onto the new
    rim and take it to an LBS for fine truing. Some one advised me that I
    should at least replace the nipples of the spokes. True ?

  13. rickster:

    Quoted message said:

    Jose Rizal <_@_._> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
    orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

    I think I'm going to have a go at this, at least build onto the new
    rim and take it to an LBS for fine truing. Some one advised me that I
    should at least replace the nipples of the spokes. True ?

    Can't hurt. However, you may as well have a go at building the wheel
    and truing it yourself; it's not hard. If you don't have a truing
    stand, turn your bike upside down and true on the fork or frame, and use
    tone to gauge whether you have even tension on the spokes. Then take it
    to your LBS for verification, so next time you know how good a job you
    can do yourself.

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