Newbie speedometer problem

What model do you have? I have the Altimeter model and when I switched to
OSS I got a long wire kit from Hostel Shoppe. There are some other Cateye
models listed. You might see if there is a kit available for yours.
http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=983899553

Dave said:

Hello, everyone! I just bought my first rideable recumbent (I'm one of
those sorry Blackbent USS owners), and I am very happy with my new
Lightning Phantom. I was out on it last night, and I was hauling on it
for twice the time that I could on my Marin San Anselmo without
slowing down, but wishing to know how fast I was moving. So, before
taking it to the office this morning, I transferred my Cateye
computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by
20x1 3/8

There are several types of 20" wheels - e.g. 451 size is quite a bit
bigger than 406 size. Could this be part of the explanation? If it doesn't
say which type of wheel it's talking about, I would tend to measure the
circumference of the wheel manually rather than accept their default
setting.

, but since the tire widths for other diameters are listed in

Quoted message said:

increasing order, it may have been a misprint). I didn't have enough
wire length from my fixed handlebar mount to bring the receiver as
close in from the rim as I would have liked to, so I was stuck with a
big gap to the magnet on the spoke, although not enough to prevent a
reading when I spun the wheel.

I noticed problem when I started riding. When I was really hauling,
the computer didn't register above 9 mph, and it stayed there for a
long time after I slowed down.

How long? If it was just a few seconds, then this is probably normal to
average out variations or perhaps so the computer can correct for missed
rev-counts.

Quoted message said:

What I am wondering is whether it's possible to consistently get a
reading at all, but an inaccurate one, due to a large gap between the
magnet and the reader.

Sounds plausible.

Quoted message said:

Has anyone had any trouble with Cateye on small wheels, or noticed that
apparent table error in the manual? Your response can help me decide if
my Cateye is worth the trouble of splicing in a longer wire so that I
can move the magnet toward the hub.

I had a Cateye that worked fine, I don't remember what model it was off
the top of my head - and I guess this could be important. Perhaps you
could move the whole thing temporarily an inch or two down the steerer to
test it. Even if you can't see it, you can tell whether it's working any
better by riding a short distance and looking to see whether the max-speed
reading is plausible.

Quoted message said:

If you don't use a Cateye on your recumbent, for whatever reason, what
make do you use?

Vetta VT100 - but only because the Cateye passed away - I kept kicking it
and the mount broke. It's nice as a speedo but I can never work out how to
make it do anything more complicated.

AC

Quoted message said:

Thanks.

Dave said:

taking it to the office this morning, I transferred my Cateye
computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by
20x1 3/8, but since the tire widths for other diameters are listed in
increasing order, it may have been a misprint).

You need the ERTO number, my Ross has a 20" wheel, but it's an ERTO 406
with circumference value for a Cateye Mity 3 of 148.

Quoted message said:

I didn't have enough wire length from my fixed handlebar mount to
bring the receiver as close in from the rim as I would have liked to,

One of the reasons I stick to Cateye for computers and lights is the big
range of fitting kits. The Ross needs a longer wire and a different
computer housing (so my knees don't hit it) and their "Tri-bars" kit is
just the job.

Quoted message said:

Has anyone had any trouble with Cateye on small wheels,

I also have a Moulton with 17" wheels, and Cateye computers are fine
with that too.

Mike

Dave said:

Quoted message said:

computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by

That sounds like a pretty small setting. For 20" tires on my cateye
Astrale I'm be using 1427. If cateye has changed to the lower factor
I'm not going to be buyng another - you can't get close to accurate
without 4 digits..

mike
(Burley Limbo)

--
Michael Vore, W3CCV M-ASA [Ka8]; WHIRL, ABC; CAW, CW, AAW
http://mike.vorefamily.net/omw <- NEW * * Turned Wood items
http://mike.vorefamily.net/twr <-The weblog

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello, everyone! I just bought my first rideable recumbent (I'm one of
those sorry Blackbent USS owners), and I am very happy with my new
Lightning Phantom. I was out on it last night, and I was hauling on it
for twice the time that I could on my Marin San Anselmo without
slowing down, but wishing to know how fast I was moving. So, before
taking it to the office this morning, I transferred my Cateye
computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by
20x1 3/8, but since the tire widths for other diameters are listed in
increasing order, it may have been a misprint). I didn't have enough
wire length from my fixed handlebar mount to bring the receiver as
close in from the rim as I would have liked to, so I was stuck with a
big gap to the magnet on the spoke, although not enough to prevent a
reading when I spun the wheel.

I've found the examples listed in bike speedometer literature is lousy, the
best thing to do is not to rely on that and measure the tire yourself for
the exact reading

Quoted message said:

I noticed problem when I started riding. When I was really hauling,
the computer didn't register above 9 mph, and it stayed there for a
long time after I slowed down. What I am wondering is whether it's
possible to consistently get a reading at all, but an inaccurate one,
due to a large gap between the magnet and the reader. Has anyone had
any trouble with Cateye on small wheels, or noticed that apparent
table error in the manual? Your response can help me decide if my
Cateye is worth the trouble of splicing in a longer wire so that I can
move the magnet toward the hub.

If you don't use a Cateye on your recumbent, for whatever reason, what
make do you use?

Thanks.

I use a Cateye and haven't had this problem, my front wheel is the same size
as yours

Mike Vore said:

Dave said:

Quoted message said:

computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by

That sounds like a pretty small setting. For 20" tires on my cateye
Astrale I'm be using 1427. If cateye has changed to the lower factor
I'm not going to be buyng another - you can't get close to accurate
without 4 digits..

The Astrale can have the circumference set to the nearest mm - I use 1440 on
a 28-406 Stelvio - but others such as the Mity can only be programmed to the
nearest cm. I've got five Astrales, four Mitys, a bag full of useless short
wire fitting kits and information overload...

--

Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
===========================================================
Editor - British Human Power Club Newsletter
http://www.bhpc.org.uk/
===========================================================

On my Phantom I use a Specialized 'comp' (at least this is what it says on
the face). I got the accessory long cable kit at the same time. Not many
computers have a long enough cable, so we opened a few boxes at the store
before finding this combo.

This computer also tends to lag behind on speed readings, but it always
works if you hold a speed for 10 seconds or so. I would prefer a Cateye
though, because I have always liked the way they work better. So by all
means, splice your cable.

To calibrate the wheel I never use the tables. I inflate the tire to my
usual pressure, lay out a tape measure on the ground, put a mark on the
tire, sit on the bike (on the tip of the saddle to center my weight), and
roll off 3 revolutions. I then multiply by 2.54 (convert inches to mm) and
devide by 3 (# revolutions). This gives the actual rolling circumference in
mm. I cross check this against the tables to check for gross errors, but the
number is pretty accurate.

That is a bit anal, but on a small wheel the error adds up.

John

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello, everyone! I just bought my first rideable recumbent (I'm one of
those sorry Blackbent USS owners), and I am very happy with my new
Lightning Phantom. I was out on it last night, and I was hauling on it
for twice the time that I could on my Marin San Anselmo without
slowing down, but wishing to know how fast I was moving. So, before
taking it to the office this morning, I transferred my Cateye
computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by
20x1 3/8, but since the tire widths for other diameters are listed in
increasing order, it may have been a misprint). I didn't have enough
wire length from my fixed handlebar mount to bring the receiver as
close in from the rim as I would have liked to, so I was stuck with a
big gap to the magnet on the spoke, although not enough to prevent a
reading when I spun the wheel.

I noticed problem when I started riding. When I was really hauling,
the computer didn't register above 9 mph, and it stayed there for a
long time after I slowed down. What I am wondering is whether it's
possible to consistently get a reading at all, but an inaccurate one,
due to a large gap between the magnet and the reader. Has anyone had
any trouble with Cateye on small wheels, or noticed that apparent
table error in the manual? Your response can help me decide if my
Cateye is worth the trouble of splicing in a longer wire so that I can
move the magnet toward the hub.

If you don't use a Cateye on your recumbent, for whatever reason, what
make do you use?

Thanks.

John Duval said:

On my Phantom I use a Specialized 'comp' (at least this is what it says
on the face). I got the accessory long cable kit at the same time. Not
many computers have a long enough cable, so we opened a few boxes at the
store before finding this combo.
This computer also tends to lag behind on speed readings, but it always
works if you hold a speed for 10 seconds or so. I would prefer a Cateye
though, because I have always liked the way they work better. So by all
means, splice your cable.
To calibrate the wheel I never use the tables. I inflate the tire to my
usual pressure, lay out a tape measure on the ground, put a mark on the
tire, sit on the bike (on the tip of the saddle to center my weight),
and roll off 3 revolutions. I then multiply by 2.54 (convert inches to
mm) and devide by 3 (# revolutions). This gives the actual rolling
circumference in
mm. I cross check this against the tables to check for gross errors, but
the number is pretty accurate.
That is a bit anal, but on a small wheel the error adds up.
John
"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:6244ff1f.0405140701.5-
[email hidden]:[email hidden]-
gle.com...

Quoted message said:

Hello, everyone! I just bought my first rideable recumbent (I'm one of
those sorry Blackbent USS owners), and I am very happy with my new
Lightning Phantom. I was out on it last night, and I was hauling on it
for twice the time that I could on my Marin San Anselmo without
slowing down, but wishing to know how fast I was moving. So, before
taking it to the office this morning, I transferred my Cateye
computer, after re-setting it at the tire code 162 for my 20x1.25
front tire (the table in the manual lists 20x1.75, followed by 20x1
3/8, but since the tire widths for other diameters are listed in
increasing order, it may have been a misprint). I didn't have enough
wire length from my fixed handlebar mount to bring the receiver as
close in from the rim as I would have liked to, so I was stuck with a
big gap to the magnet on the spoke, although not enough to prevent a
reading when I spun the wheel.

I noticed problem when I started riding. When I was really hauling,
the computer didn't register above 9 mph, and it stayed there for a
long time after I slowed down. What I am wondering is whether it's
possible to consistently get a reading at all, but an inaccurate one,
due to a large gap between the magnet and the reader. Has anyone had
any trouble with Cateye on small wheels, or noticed that apparent
table error in the manual? Your response can help me decide if my
Cateye is worth the trouble of splicing in a longer wire so that I can
move the magnet toward the hub.

If you don't use a Cateye on your recumbent, for whatever reason, what
make do you use?

Thanks.

I use GPS (Garmin Venture) as my speedometer! No calibration needed. It
gives speed, average speed, maximum speed and distance traveled plus
tracking records. I can easily move it amoung several bikes I have.
After I got my first 'bent', a Revive, about a month ago my GPS is
always attached to the Revive.

--