UK and Europe · Public discussion

Sizing

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UK and Europe
Published
9 July 2004
Last activity
10 July 2004
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Saint
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  1. I have read a lot lately about the necessity to undertake
    correct 'sizing' when purchasing a bike, which of course I
    agree with. However the advice is a bit hit and miss in
    that, today, I visited 5 reputable dealers in my area with
    the intention of buying a bike. Every single one if them
    merely said that correct sizing involved my standing with
    slight clearance over the crossbar and having the saddle at
    a height where my toes were in contact with the ground.

    This, I was told, was the correct way to ascertain size.

    Now, not many shops that I know (and many are long
    standing, reputable dealers) have fitting machines/jigs etc
    so in the absence of these how on earth do I know what the
    correct size is?

    I tried a Trek 1500 today and was able to apply the above
    criteria to both the 56 and 58 cm frames, of course with the
    latter having less seatpost pin out. I am 5 feet 11 (and a
    bit) tall - which is the correct size and what, in practical
    terms, are the criteria for correct size?

    And I thought cycling was just about riding your
    bike........

    Cheers

    S

  2. "Saint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have read a lot lately about the necessity to undertake
    correct 'sizing' when purchasing a bike, which of course I
    agree with. However the advice


    is

    Quoted message said:

    a bit hit and miss in that, today, I visited 5 reputable
    dealers in my


    area

    Quoted message said:

    with the intention of buying a bike. Every single one if
    them merely said that correct sizing involved my
    standing with slight clearance over the crossbar and
    having the saddle at a height where my toes were in
    contact with the ground.

    This, I was told, was the correct way to ascertain size.

    Now, not many shops that I know (and many are long
    standing, reputable dealers) have fitting machines/jigs
    etc so in the absence of these how on earth do I know what
    the correct size is?

    I tried a Trek 1500 today and was able to apply the above
    criteria to both the 56 and 58 cm frames, of course with
    the latter having less seatpost


    pin

    Quoted message said:

    out. I am 5 feet 11 (and a bit) tall - which is the
    correct size and


    what,

    Quoted message said:

    in practical terms, are the criteria for correct size?

    And I thought cycling was just about riding your
    bike........

    I've been through four bikes and thought I liked them all,
    but my current is the best. I have tried one of my old bikes
    since, and I hate it. It's a personal thing. Borrow bikes
    off friends etc ...

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I have read a lot lately about the necessity to undertake
    correct 'sizing' when purchasing a bike, which of course I
    agree with. However the advice is a bit hit and miss in
    that, today, I visited 5 reputable dealers in my area with
    the intention of buying a bike. Every single one if them
    merely said that correct sizing involved my standing with
    slight clearance over the crossbar and having the saddle
    at a height where my toes were in contact with the ground.

    This, I was told, was the correct way to ascertain size.

    Now, not many shops that I know (and many are long
    standing, reputable dealers) have fitting machines/jigs
    etc so in the absence of these how on earth do I know what
    the correct size is?

    I tried a Trek 1500 today and was able to apply the above
    criteria to both the 56 and 58 cm frames, of course with
    the latter having less seatpost pin out. I am 5 feet 11
    (and a bit) tall - which is the correct size and what, in
    practical terms, are the criteria for correct size?

    And I thought cycling was just about riding your
    bike........

    Cheers

    S


    Now there are others more qulified than I, however, as they
    all seem to be either down the pub or in bed, I will give
    you a starter[1] for 10. Bikes (or bicycles) come in many
    different flavours to do many diffrent jobs. Unsupprisinly,
    the sizing will be diffrent for each type. So, first
    question, what do you want to do on your new bike. Commute,
    if so, will that be a fast commute or a slow pootle commute.
    Will it be a train commute with a bit/some/a lot of riding
    at one/both ends? Race? ok, will that be on the road, or off
    the road, or perhaps a combination of the two? Tour? wil
    that be weekend tours or full blown round the world tour, so
    soemwhere inbetween. Enough. this isn't an exustive list but
    you get the picture. You mention a Trek, without looking I
    don't know whether the modle you looked at was a mountian
    bike a hybred or a road bike. However, one of the primary
    measurements you will be interested in is the distance
    between the saddle and the peddal when the crank is inline
    with the seat tube. There are mathematical formulea to work
    this out but a good starting point is with you sitting on
    the saddle, you should be able to comfortable rest your heel
    on the lower peddal with a slight bend in the knee. But as
    the seat post is normally adjustable in the seat post, this
    can be moved to suit you on a wide varity of frame sizes.
    Next up (and my personal starting point!) is the stand over
    hight. this is the distance between your dangley bits and
    the top tube. On a road bike this only needs to be
    confortably clear, (say a couple of
    cm), on a mountin bike, this distance can't really be to
    big, say a couple of feet for safety... ok, sensibly 10
    to 15 cm, though bike manufactures have done alsorts to
    lower the standover hight these days igh all manor of
    bent top tubes (one way to look at this, is it's one les
    tube for you to bend 🙂 next up is the saddle to the
    handle bars distance. Starting point here is with your
    elbow on the noes of the saddle your fingertips should
    reach the bars. whether you want the saddle above the
    bars, in line with the bars or below the bars is personal
    prefference and depends on what your goals are, but you
    should considier this when you buy a frame. OK, got all
    that. Good. In summary, the for a saftey bike[2] you will
    have three contact points with the bike, your hands, your
    feet and the soft squigy bit between your legs. it is the
    relationship between these that is important to comfort
    and power[3] whether you can reach the floor while in the
    saddle is a safety issue, but is also important. A good
    bike shop would tell you this, and the advise you
    recieved is more akin to that which would be dished out
    to a parent buying a toy bike for a child.

    HtH

    1. It is only a starter, theres a whole scince out there
    specialisingt in thsi stuff.
    2.A safety bike is what you probably consider as a 'normal
    bike' with a dimond frame. there is of course no such
    thing as a normal bike and everyone in this ng knows
    (whether they'll admit it or not) that the the continume
    of refinement goes from Ordenaries (penny farthings)
    through safety bikes all the way to recumbents
    3.Again, as is known by all of this parish, the dark side is
    he only true place of comfort and power availale to the
    pedal cyclist.
    --
    .paul

    If at first you don't succeed... Skydiving is probably not
    the sport for you.

  4. Saint said:

    I have read a lot lately about the necessity to undertake
    correct 'sizing' when purchasing a bike, which of course I
    agree with. However the advice is a bit hit and miss in
    that, today, I visited 5 reputable dealers in my area with
    the intention of buying a bike. Every single one if them
    merely said that correct sizing involved my standing with
    slight clearance over the crossbar and having the saddle
    at a height where my toes were in contact with the ground.

    This, I was told, was the correct way to ascertain size.

    Now, not many shops that I know (and many are long
    standing, reputable dealers) have fitting machines/jigs
    etc so in the absence of these how on earth do I know what
    the correct size is?

    I tried a Trek 1500 today and was able to apply the above
    criteria to both the 56 and 58 cm frames, of course with
    the latter having less seatpost pin out. I am 5 feet 11
    (and a bit) tall - which is the correct size and what, in
    practical terms, are the criteria for correct size?

    And I thought cycling was just about riding your
    bike........

    Cheers

    S


    Top tube and stem length are generally more important than
    seat tube size - especially for MTB and compact road frames,
    where standover height is not an issue.

  5. "paul" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I have read a lot lately about the necessity to
    undertake correct


    'sizing'

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    when purchasing a bike, which of course I agree with.
    However the


    advice is

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a bit hit and miss in that, today, I visited 5 reputable
    dealers in my


    area

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    with the intention of buying a bike. Every single one if
    them merely


    said

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that correct sizing involved my standing with slight
    clearance over the crossbar and having the saddle at a
    height where my toes were in contact with the ground.

    This, I was told, was the correct way to ascertain size.

    Now, not many shops that I know (and many are long
    standing, reputable dealers) have fitting machines/jigs
    etc so in the absence of these how


    on

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    earth do I know what the correct size is?

    I tried a Trek 1500 today and was able to apply the
    above criteria to


    both

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the 56 and 58 cm frames, of course with the latter
    having less seatpost


    pin

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    out. I am 5 feet 11 (and a bit) tall - which is the
    correct size and


    what,

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    in practical terms, are the criteria for correct size?

    And I thought cycling was just about riding your
    bike........

    Cheers

    S


    Now there are others more qulified than I, however, as
    they all seem to be either down the pub or in bed, I will
    give you a starter[1] for 10. Bikes (or bicycles) come in
    many different flavours to do many diffrent jobs.
    Unsupprisinly, the sizing will be diffrent for each type.
    So, first question, what do you want to do on your new
    bike. Commute, if so, will that be a fast commute or a
    slow pootle commute. Will it be a train commute with a
    bit/some/a lot of riding at one/both ends? Race? ok, will
    that be on the road, or off the road, or perhaps a
    combination of the two? Tour? wil that be weekend tours or
    full blown round the world tour, so soemwhere inbetween.
    Enough. this isn't an exustive list but you get the
    picture. You mention a Trek, without looking I don't know
    whether the modle you looked at was a mountian bike a
    hybred or a road bike. However, one of the primary
    measurements you will be interested in is the distance
    between the saddle and the peddal when the crank is inline
    with the seat tube. There are mathematical formulea to
    work this out but a good starting point is with you
    sitting on the saddle, you should be able to comfortable
    rest your heel on the lower peddal with a slight bend in
    the knee. But as the seat post is normally adjustable in
    the seat post, this can be moved to suit you on a wide
    varity of frame sizes. Next up (and my personal starting
    point!) is the stand over hight. this is the distance
    between your dangley bits and the top tube. On a road bike
    this only needs to be confortably clear, (say a couple of
    cm), on a mountin bike, this distance can't really be to
    big, say a couple of feet for safety... ok, sensibly 10
    to 15 cm, though bike manufactures have done alsorts to
    lower the standover hight these days igh all manor of
    bent top tubes (one way to look at this, is it's one
    les tube for you to bend 🙂 next up is the saddle to
    the handle bars distance. Starting point here is with
    your elbow on the noes of the saddle your fingertips
    should reach the bars. whether you want the saddle
    above the bars, in line with the bars or below the bars
    is personal prefference and depends on what your goals
    are, but you should considier this when you buy a
    frame. OK, got all that. Good. In summary, the for a
    saftey bike[2] you will have three contact points with
    the bike, your hands, your feet and the soft squigy bit
    between your legs. it is the relationship between these
    that is important to comfort and power[3] whether you
    can reach the floor while in the saddle is a safety
    issue, but is also important. A good bike shop would
    tell you this, and the advise you recieved is more akin
    to that which would be dished out to a parent buying a
    toy bike for a child.

    HtH

    1. It is only a starter, theres a whole scince out there
    specialisingt in thsi stuff.
    2.A safety bike is what you probably consider as a 'normal
    bike' with a dimond frame. there is of course no such
    thing as a normal bike and everyone in this ng knows
    (whether they'll admit it or not) that the the continume
    of refinement goes from Ordenaries (penny farthings)
    through safety bikes all the way to recumbents
    3.Again, as is known by all of this parish, the dark side
    is he only true place of comfort and power availale to
    the pedal cyclist.
    --
    .paul

    If at first you don't succeed... Skydiving is probably not
    the sport for you.

    Having just purchased a new bike I can honestly say there
    is no better way to determine the correct size than trying
    the bike. I read all the sizing stuff I could find on the
    web and had a size in mind (19"😉 before I went to the shop.
    On trying various bikes I nearly gave up having found that
    the saddle to handle bar distance was too short for me,
    even on the biggest frames. In the end I tried a 17.5" Trek
    6500 which turned out to be perfect. Basically it's down to
    the geometry of the frame and having tried various makes
    and models this turned out to be the best option in my
    price range.

    So get down to a shop where they will let you try the
    bikes. My LBS were great as they had various models in
    their hire fleet and they let me ride them round the
    country park, where they are based, so I could get a good
    feel for the thing.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Dave

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