Shimano STI Conversion

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by aleonardi
Okay all, I know there are a few experts on here, so I am hoping to get some good advice. I just received a 1988 Cannondale from a friend who hasn't used the bike in probably 7 years. The bike is essentially mint with original Shimano 105 group (biopace double upfront and six speed rear).

What I want to know is what is (is there?) a reasonably inexpensive way to convert from the Light Action downtube shifters to STI. I am a newbie to this stuff so fire away.

NOTE: I have been a heavy mountain bike rider in that time and am not used to the downtube shifting (nor am I sure I even like it).

Thanks for the advice!
Cheers, Alan Leonardi

Given that it's 6 speed, the best you can do for cheap is 7 speed sora levers that would have an extra click. If you have a freewheel, there are 7 speed index units availble. If you have a uniglide casette,www.loosescrews.com has index 7 speed units.You may need a new STI compatible FD and the biopace rings arent ideal for sti but can be made to work.Do FD adjustment for ring clearance at highest point of ring arc. It isn't hard to get into the price of a new bike with this kind of changeover,especially is you have to have more than 7 speeds.

Does it have index ("click click"😉 shifting?

The absolute cheapest way to do it would be to look around for some old 7 or eight speed Shimano STI levers, then try to get it to index with the existing cogs. You might be able to find an old Maillard 7 speed screw on cluster that will "index" with 7 or 8 speed Shimano levers (i was doing this for years).

That's the cheap way, but the old stuff is being phased out, so the sensible thing to do is...............

The most expensive part is gunna be the levers.

It's probably wise to go for the new stuff, which means you'll have to get 9 or 10 speed set of levers, a set of cogs (cassette), a chain (9 and 10 speed chains are narrower than the old stuff), and if your existing rear hub is screw on, you'll have to get a new hub. Some people will then say that, if you're getting a new hub, you might as well get a new wheel, and if you're getting a new wheel, you might as well get a pair..........it goes on and on.

😄

I'm in Australia, so it's pointless given youi prices.🙂

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by nutbag
Does it have index ("click click"😉 shifting?



It's probably wise to go for the new stuff, which means you'll have to get 9 or 10 speed set of levers, a set of cogs (cassette), a chain (9 and 10 speed chains are narrower than the old stuff), and if your existing rear hub is screw on, you'll have to get a new hub. Some people will then say that, if you're getting a new hub, you might as well get a new wheel, and if you're getting a new wheel, you might as well get a pair..........

'LIGHT ACTION' IS index. New stuff requires 130 dropout spacing and if his is the likely 126,there are issues with spreading the stays. There are ways around it,but they are more complex and expensive.

Wow! This is great info from everyone. Given that I didn't pay anything for the bike, I might just consider using it as a tester with the Shimano Sora. Then again, if anyone wanted a classic Cannondale, maybe I would just part with it and save up for a new bike.

THanks again for all of the info. Cheers, Alan

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by aleonardi
Wow! This is great info from everyone. Given that I didn't pay anything for the bike, I might just consider using it as a tester with the Shimano Sora. Then again, if anyone wanted a classic Cannondale, maybe I would just part with it and save up for a new bike.

THanks again for all of the info. Cheers, Alan

There ain't no big market for a 'classic' Cdale. But if it's really pristine, it might be worth $150-200 on the right day to the right person.

Thanks for the pricing info, maybe I will advertise it locally (craigslist) and see what happens. No worries right?