Installing new Centaur "10sp" triple today with ACH 111 bb. Torque cranks to 30ftlbs. Continue new bike build. Trying to get the front derailer to shift onto small ring ... cannot. Remove right crank bolt. Look into bore and see the end of the spindle at the end of the bore! Not good. Uninstall, reinstall, same result. Man, I shoulda known it didn't feel right when I achieved torque and the torque wrench clicked! Look at left crank ... it's ok. Go get new right crank (Racing T) and install ... same problem!!! Go get Mirage triple and install ... no problem. Goofy?!? Try another bb with all three cranks ... same results. Try third bb (older one with silver spindle ... the new ones now have brown/black spindles - making these in Taiwan now?) ... same results.
Yesterday, I installed the same setup (Centaur 10sp triple) on another bike and it was ok. I even uninstalled/reinstalled that one to double check. Just fine.
So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years anyway) yet new-never-installed model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar defects? I presume they are the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and polishes/anodizes them with new logos as needed? What the hell's going on?
Thanks for your input. -- Robin Hubert <[email hidden]
Something is wrong with the way the AC-H bb went into the bb shell or something wrong with the bb. I don't know how you torque that crazy star pattern locknut with a torque wrench.
The drive side 'cup' which is not removable, can be moved outward. Make sure it is down flush to the face of the bb. You just screw the left side in snugly and it shoud be against the frame and torque the right side only.
There is a possibility that you need a 115 bb. You can get a 1 mm freewheel spacer and put it over the right cup before installation. If it is too narrow to fit over the cup, cut it so it opens a little. I don't think this is your problem.
So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years anyway) yet new-never-installed model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar defects? I presume they are the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and polishes/anodizes them with new logos as needed? What the hell's going on?
Is it possible all your BB's are 68mm, but that your frame's BB shell is 73mm?
Also, if the frame has an oversize seat tube, a 111mm spindle is very close to being too short. I normally go with 115 on a bike with a 32mm (1-1/4"😉 seat tube.
"Mark Hickey" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Robin Hubert said:
So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years
anyway)
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
yet new-never-installed model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar defects? I presume they are the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and polishes/anodizes them
with
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
new logos as needed? What the hell's going on?
Is it possible all your BB's are 68mm, but that your frame's BB shell is 73mm?
Also, if the frame has an oversize seat tube, a 111mm spindle is very close to being too short. I normally go with 115 on a bike with a 32mm (1-1/4"😉 seat tube.
Maybe I wasn't clear but both you and Paul missed the point. It's not the bb that's the problem. Two of four cranks go on all four bottom brackets way too far. That is, the crank bolit is bottoming out on the spindle; ie. the crank is going onto the spindle too far. The shifting problem was just a sign that led me to this discovery.
"Paul Kopit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Something is wrong with the way the AC-H bb went into the bb shell or something wrong with the bb. I don't know how you torque that crazy star pattern locknut with a torque wrench.
-snip other useful ideas-
Just as with all modern cartridge BBs, you can drive a torque wrench on the o.e.m. style tool with a socket. That method givces you both an accurate measurement of torque as well as shredded plastic cup splines and bloody knuckles.
We strongly prefer the Tacx tools. Using a torque wrench with those you are relegated to a crow'sfoot.
I have to admit not bothering as I have a pretty good feel for that torque, having used a torque wrench in that range for that job for a good long while. We do periodically test each other with the scale facing away from the operator. I think that's a good idea in a shop where torque values can creep up or down over time unless checked regularly.
