UK and Europe · Public discussion

Road Tyre Size

Started by Tj · · Last activity · 6 posts · 723 views

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UK and Europe
Published
10 June 2004
Last activity
11 June 2004
Original author
Tj
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6
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  1. I have 1.95 Knobblies on my MTB wheels and want to change
    them to Road tyres.

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on
    tyre width I have a choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would
    prefer the 1.6's

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the office
    across epsom downs and find that when descending I am unable
    to propel the bike as it coasts faster than the gearing
    allows me to pedal and despite some pretty big climbs I
    always leave the big cog on the front all the time and just
    use the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets on the rear.

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that
    I have a better spread of much more useable gears do I
    just change the rear cassette, the front or both and to
    what ??????

    Thanks

    TJ

  2. TJ said:

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on
    tyre width I have a choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would
    prefer the 1.6's

    They ought to fit on, so get the ones you prefer.

    Quoted message said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the
    office across epsom downs and find that when descending
    I am unable to propel the bike as it coasts faster than
    the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all
    the time and just use the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets
    on the rear.

    If you're doing big climbs on the big wheel and only the wee
    cogs at the back it's entirely possible you're being a bit
    of a Masher. While MTBs' smallest gears are for really daft
    things the middle ring and bigger cogs at the back are more
    typically useful for big climbs on decent surfaces at usual
    road gradients. You might find that upping your cadence is a
    good idea as it's generally better for your knees and if you
    do longer rides it generally gives you rather more
    endurance.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that
    I have a better spread of much more useable gears do I
    just change the rear cassette, the front or both and to
    what ??????

    Cadence increases aside, you can do either or both of the
    above to fiddle the gearing. You'll generally need special
    tools to replace either so usually easiest to leave it with
    a bike shop and have them do the work.

    My tourer has a good spread of gears, from walking pace up
    to practically impossible to spin out. Big ring at the front
    is 52 tooth, wee one is a 30, at the back it's 11-34. Your
    mileage may vary, but that does just about anything I want.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111
    ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382
    640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net
    [email hidden] dundee.ac.uk~pjclinch

  3. TJ said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the
    office across epsom downs and find that when descending
    I am unable to propel the bike as it coasts faster than
    the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all
    the time and just use the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets
    on the rear.

    Sounds like you need to pedal faster and push less - use
    the middle ring (assuming a triple). Your knees with thank
    you later...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that
    I have a better spread of much more useable gears do I
    just change the rear cassette, the front or both and to
    what ??????

    tranchant.plus.comgears

    --
    Mark.

  4. On 10/6/04 4:12 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Mark Tranchant said:
    TJ said:

    I use this bike for the short 5 mile commute to the
    office across epsom downs and find that when descending
    I am unable to propel the bike as it coasts faster than
    the gearing allows me to pedal and despite some pretty
    big climbs I always leave the big cog on the front all
    the time and just use the 4 outer (smallest) sprockets
    on the rear.


    That brings tears to the eyes just thinking about it. You
    must really hate your knees. Practice spinning in low
    gears. Honestly.

    I used to ride around there and the climbs are quite steep.

    ..d

  5. TJ:

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to know what to upgrade the gearing to so that
    I have a better spread of much more useable gears do I
    just change the rear cassette, the front or both and to
    what ??????

    How many teeth are there on your big chainring? And what
    sprockets do you have on your cassette?

    I've been noticing recently that a lot of hybrid/mountain
    bikes people are riding on the road have what look like very
    small "big" chainrings - small enough in fact that spinning
    out on the flat is a likely scenario. If yours is one of
    these then no wonder you can't pedal fast enough on the
    descents - increasing your cadence *may* help, as others
    have suggested, but then again it may not. Unless you can
    get your cadence up near the 200rpm mark.

    The solution in this case would be to upgrade your chainset
    to one more suitable for road riding. Or get a proper road
    bike and save the mountain bike for going up mountains.

    d.

  6. TJ said:

    I have 1.95 Knobblies on my MTB wheels and want to change
    them to Road tyres.

    Rim's appear to be 1.3" wide are there any rules on
    tyre width I have a choice of 1.3 or 1.6 and would
    prefer the 1.6's

    Definitely the 1.6" ones. They will have a better rounded
    profile on your rims, and the bike will corner more easily
    - plus they're unlikely to blow off if you put a lot of
    air in them.

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