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Ride Position

Started by Paul Davis · · Last activity · 9 posts · 630 views

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UK and Europe
Published
30 May 2004
Last activity
1 June 2004
Original author
Paul Davis
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9
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  1. I know that getting the correct ride position has a lot to
    do with personal preferance and type of riding done but
    would like a bit of advice.

    I ride manly on-road and lots of rough country roads and
    tracks and trails with some light off-road. I've always
    liked a fairly stretched position and ride a 20" On-One
    Inbred (mountain bike frame) which feels spot on for the
    sort of riding I do. The On-One site recommends 80-105mm
    stems for 20" Inbreds but I have a 110mm Easton EA50 stem
    with 10 degree rise fitted and On-One XC riser bars. At
    6' tall this is a little on the long side according to
    On-One recommendations but feels right for the type of
    riding I do and came about after riding with an
    adjustable stem for a while.

    This gives a postion where my back is flat and roughly 40
    degrees to upright, arms roughly 90 degree to the torso and
    a slight bend in the elbows with weight distributed (at a
    guess) roughly 60:40 saddle to bars. This seems to fit in
    with most articles on bicycle fit that I have read.

    When riding gently and looking at the scenery the position
    feels a tad stretched but when head down and hammering or
    pedaling out of the saddle it sometimes feels like I could
    do with an extra bit of length in the stem.

    I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a
    small amount of neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to
    come from raising the head to look forward (although it
    could just be the sudden increase in riding with the hot
    weather) and a slight tingling in my fingers after long,
    rough rides.

    I guess that no setup is optimum in all situation. What do
    people think?

    Thanks, PJay

  2. Paul Davis <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a
    : small amount of neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to
    : come from raising the head to look forward (although it
    : could just be the sudden increase in riding with the hot
    : weather) and a slight tingling in my fingers after long,
    : rough rides.

    Which sounds like your position is too long and/or too low.
    Though the neck thing could just be that you need to get
    used to the bike again, and the slight tingling could just
    be the effects of being offroad.

    Fit is a very personal thing, but I wonder if you should try
    a slightly less stretched position?

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.org "Technolibertarians make a
    philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  3. Arthur Clune said:
    Paul Davis said:

    I was wondering what people think, I have recently had a
    small amount of neck pain (not bad at all) which seems to
    come from raising the head to look forward (although it
    could just be the sudden increase in riding with the hot
    weather) and a slight tingling in my fingers after long,
    rough rides.

    Which sounds like your position is too long and/or too
    low. Though the neck thing could just be that you need to
    get used to the bike again, and the slight tingling could
    just be the effects of being offroad.

    Fit is a very personal thing, but I wonder if you should
    try a slightly less stretched position?

    I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly long
    stem and the seat most of the way back. Do I want to move
    the seat forwards or the bars back? Does it make any odds?

  4. Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly
    : long stem and the seat most of the way back. Do I want
    : to move the seat forwards or the bars back? Does it make
    : any odds?

    Or get a bigger big? Depends.

    Are you comfortable where you are?

    The common advice goes like this:

    1) Set saddle height so that your knee is just bent at the
    bottom of the stroke
    2) Set saddle fore/aft position so that a plumbline dropped
    from your knee lies over the pedal spindle with the
    cranks level. There's some scope for ambuigity here
    (front or rear of knee?) but I don't think it makes a lot
    of difference.
    3) Check saddle height again since you've just altered the
    effective height.
    4) Set distance to bars so that when you are riding on the
    hoods you can't see the front hub (ie handlebars and
    front hub) in line
    5) Set height of bars so that your back is at about 45
    degrees to the vertical when on the hoods. Adjust
    the angle depending on your flexibility, belly size
    and fitness.

    That gives a basic road position. Then adjust to taste.

    More details here:
    coloradocyclist.comindex.cfm

    Most tourists and audaxes end up with a more upright
    positon. Short distance TT'ers a much, much lower one.
    MTB'ers will tend to use a shorter, more upright position to
    give better bike control in the rough stuff. etc, etc.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.org "Technolibertarians make a
    philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  5. Arthur Clune said:
    Doki said:

    I've been wondering about this. My bike's got a fairly
    long stem and the seat most of the way back. Do I want
    to move the seat forwards or the bars back? Does it make
    any odds?

    Or get a bigger big? Depends.

    Are you comfortable where you are?

    The common advice goes like this:

    1) Set saddle height so that your knee is just bent at the
    bottom of the stroke 2) Set saddle fore/aft position so
    that a plumbline dropped from your knee lies over the
    pedal spindle with the cranks level. There's some scope
    for ambuigity here (front or rear of knee?) but I don't
    think it makes a lot of difference. 3) Check saddle
    height again since you've just altered the effective
    height. 4) Set distance to bars so that when you are
    riding on the hoods you can't see the front hub (ie
    handlebars and front hub) in line 5) Set height of bars
    so that your back is at about 45 degrees to the
    vertical when on the hoods. Adjust the angle depending
    on your flexibility, belly size and fitness.

    That gives a basic road position. Then adjust to taste.

    More details here:
    coloradocyclist.comindex.cfm

    Most tourists and audaxes end up with a more upright
    positon. Short distance TT'ers a much, much lower one.
    MTB'ers will tend to use a shorter, more upright position
    to give better bike control in the rough stuff. etc, etc.

    Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit
    shorter. I'll experiment with moving the saddle first, after
    all, it's free.

  6. Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit
    : shorter. I'll experiment with moving the saddle first,
    : after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct
    then the way to make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move
    the saddle.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.org "Technolibertarians make a
    philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  7. "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit
    : shorter. I'll experiment with moving the saddle first,
    : after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct
    then the way to make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move
    the saddle.

    I've no idea if it is, to be honest.

  8. Doki said:

    "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Doki <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Sorry, I was talking about an MTB and making the cockpit
    : shorter. I'll experiment with moving the saddle first,
    : after all, it's free.

    It is, but if your saddle fore/aft position is correct
    then the way to make the cockpit shorter is *not* to move
    the saddle.

    I've no idea if it is, to be honest.

    If that's the case you should set it up in accordance with
    Arthur's instructions before even thinking of using it to
    shorten the cockpit. Getting the saddle position wrong can
    lead to all sorts of biomechanical problems and injuries.
    --
    Michael MacClancy Random putdown - "He has no enemies, but
    is intensely disliked by his friends." -Oscar Wilde
    www.macclancy.demon.co.uk www.macclancy.co.uk

  9. Michael MacClancy said:

    If that's the case you should set it up in accordance with
    Arthur's instructions before even thinking of using it to
    shorten the cockpit. Getting the saddle position wrong can
    lead to all sorts of biomechanical problems and injuries.

    Hi Michael

    I agree with both you and Arthur and this one. Going with
    Arthur's 1-5 instructions, I find that in general that my
    stems are too long. So, for me, assuming a more or less
    correct frame size, it's get the saddle in the right place
    and go from there.

    Having said that, the fitter I get (fitter meaning
    smaller gut!) the more stretched out I find comfortable,
    within reason.

    James

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