The older I get the more I realize that as far as food is
concerned, simpler is better. Classic dishes are classics
because they're already perfect on their own. Lavender creme
brulee may be perfectly nice, but a creme brulee on its own
is better. Fries with nothing but salt have it all over
seasoned fries, or fries with garlic, or pepper, whatever
else some enterprising chef decides to put on them.
But chefs, like opera directors, just can't seem to leave
well enough alone. They have to innovate. Please, stop
innovating, and just give us a perfectly prepared Waldorf
salad or Boston cream pie with no fancy frills.
I find myself saying this all the time, as I did this
weekend. I sampled two desserts at a rather expensive
restaurant: Boston banana cream pie, and angel food
strawberry shortcake, both with disappointing results.
As is the custom nowadays, both desserts had been prepared
in small circular molds, with fancily decorated sauce
surrounding them on the plate.
The Boston cream pie was not topped by a chocolate glaze,
but rather by a thick round of hard, rather tasteless
chocolate. The cake itself and the cream were quite nice,
but the flavor of the banana overpowered them both. The
banana was a case of gilding the lily. Just leave the
lilies alone!
The strawberry shortcake was encased in a shell of hardened
white chocolate, which, I'm afraid added nothing to the
cake. The angel food cake absorbed the syrup so that it was
a soggy gop. The strawberries and cream were fine. The truth
is, a dessert of just strawberries and cream would have been
so much better!
To our restaurant chefs: Just stick to the basics and we'll
all be better off.