Michael S said:So, here goes: I will be using the GPS on hill-walks
around the UK (mostly Lake District and Scottish
Highlands). I don't *think* I want mapping,
A bonus but not essential. However the better specified
units tend to be mapping units.
Quoted message said:I don't need anything top of the range, but I probably
want more than the bog-standard. I would like to be able
to connect to the PC.
All but the Geko 101 can do that. You'll need a lead so
factor that into the price. I think the mapping units
usually include a lead.
Quoted message said:I imagine I'll be using it for navigation in conjunction
with map & compass,
You can imagine that. You can even persist in doing that if
you enjoy luddism, but if you learn how to use it
effectively (and that means pre-plotting waypoints in your
computer) you'll find the compass quickly becomes redundant
and you rarely ever need to consult the map (except to check
fine details). It's quite possible to do entire walks in any
weather conditions (thick fog, night) without ever taking
your map and compass out of the rucksack - in fact it's very
convenient not to have to, especially in bad weather. Usual
disclaimer about always carrying a map and compass of
course... (map is still useful, compass is just a backup).
But if you really want to do it the hard way and get the
least value for money out of your investment, you can
continue to navigate with map and compass leaving the GPS
switched off in your rucksack, only taking it out and
switching it on when traditional methods fail you. When this
happens you can simply read the grid ref off the GPS to
check where you are, but be warned, those who rarely use
their GPS may not be very familiar with it's use and may not
have the datums or displays set correctly, so errors can
occur. If you instead use it as your primary navigation tool
then any errors will quickly become apparent and you'll
become used to the quirks of it's use.
Naturally it won't work inside caves or buildings, sometimes
doesn't work in steep valleys and can have trouble in dense
forestry (esp if in battery save mode), so there are
occasions when it will fail you, but not as many as the
luddites would have you believe. Most of the time it works
fine, even in forests.
Quoted message said:and also to save tracks of routes I've walked for
'analysis' (if poss?) on the PC when I get home.
Absolutely poss. If you really want to analyse you'll need a
"proper" GPS program like Ozi.
Quoted message said:Battery type is not an issue, as I use both AA and
AAA anyway.
Which would make the Geko 201 a good choice.
Quoted message said:I'd like it to be waterproof, as I sometimes find myself
out and about in horrendous weather.
All are, except the Lowrance iFinder.
Quoted message said:I would like as many trackpoints as possible, but as I've
never used a GPS I don't know whether 2000 (for example)
would be adequate or not...
I'd recommend a unit with 10,000.
Quoted message said:I often do mountain walks in the region of 15 miles
- if I wanted a fairly detailed tracklog of such a walk,
would 2000 be enough??? How many trackpoints are
required per mile, say, to get a decently detailed
tracklog of a walk (if that's a logical question)?
Trackpoint use varies from unit to unit and within each unit
via different settings so it's difficult to say. My GPS12
has 1024 trackpoints and I get perhaps 15 - 25 miles out of
it, depending on the complexity of the route. A long walk on
good paths with get a greater distance, but lots of zig
zagging uses up more.
The eTrex has more trackpoints but apparently eats them up
much faster.
2000 should be enough for a weekend, but not enough for a
week, that's why I recommend 10,000.
Quoted message said:Anyway, after a little research and quite a bit of random
stabbing in the dark (!), I'm considering the GPS72 or the
GPS76. Does this sound like a logical decision for my
needs???
A reasonable choice.
Quoted message said:Also, what are the differences between the two in
practice?
I've just checked the specs and the only difference is that
the 76 has a higher resolution screen. Higher res is good
but without mapping it's not particularly important so it
doesn't seem to justify the extra cost. Trackpoints are the
same so there doesn't seem to be much advantage over the 72.
I've used the 72, it's quite a nice unit. Although a bit
bulky compared to the latest miniature models, it's not
heavy, only using 2 AAs.
My preference is for the 76 map series. Obviously they cost
a lot more but they come with 10,000 trackpoints as well as
the obvious maps. The 76S contains an electronic compass
(largely unnecessary) and the altimeter/barometer
(desirable). Much discussion has taken place about the
advantages of the barometer over the normal GPS altitude.
The latter is fine for general use but the barometer gives a
smoother altitude profile.
If you really don't want maps but want more trackpoints,
get the Geko
201. If you fancy the altimeter & compass version, get the
301. Alternatively the Magellan SporTrak looks a very
good model if 2000 points is enough. I think I'd
prefer that to the Gekos.
Quoted message said:Looking at various websites, and using the comparison
facility on a website that was suggested elsewhere, it
seems as though the GPS76 has a bigger display (or better
resolutiuon - not sure which), the ability to attach an
external antenna, and a different voltage range (???).
I don't know what the significance of the latter is, but the
main use for an aerial would be on a car or to wear on your
hat if you are really obsessed with getting the best
possible signal. Normally it's not a problem.
Paul
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