fixie lockring wrench

supabonbon said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:

sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Sheldon "Sparks" Brown +---------------------------------------------
+
| Television: | A medium. So called because it is |
| neither rare nor well done. | --Ernie Kovacs |
+---------------------------------------------+ Harris
Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX
617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

"Dictum sapienti sat est." - Terence
On 13 May 2004 10:16:55 -0700, [email hidden] (supabonbon)

Quoted message said:

Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear.
Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

As long as the lockring has two opposing notches (most
do, including the Dura-Ace one you list), Park's SPA-3
does a good job:

businesscycles.comtrtool.htmOpen ↗

-------------------------------
John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida Since 1983 Our
catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
businesscycles.combusinesscycles.comOpen ↗

(supabonbon) said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit of
the jaw ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of each jaw
to engage the notches in the lockring. Works great for all
sizes of lockrings, many sealed BBs, etc., and also works
well as a Channel Lock pliers for other purposes.

(supabonbon) said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit of
the jaw ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of each jaw
to engage the notches in the lockring. Works great for all
sizes of lockrings, many sealed BBs, etc., and also works
well as a Channel Lock pliers for other purposes.

Quoted message said:

My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit
of the jaw ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of
each jaw to engage the notches in the lockring.

I would love to see a picture of this if you have time to
post. Thanks, Blake

B Paton said:

Quoted message said:

My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit
of the jaw ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of
each jaw to engage the notches in the lockring.

I would love to see a picture of this if you have time
to post.

I'll see what I can do- it was dead easy, took about 10
minutes with a Dremel. Inspired by the VAR pliers-type
lockring tool.

Drop me an e-mail to remind me in case I forget. I'll post
it to a Web site and post the URL. Now, where's the digital
camera gotten to?

Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

supabonbon said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:

sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds
me: I have an old, old, (older than most readers of this
newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I still ride as a
"around town" bike, and it has a round headset "nut" with 4
notches in it. It looks like it takes a small version of the
Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work) but I've
never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.

Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of,
at one time.

TIA.

Tom Young

steve-<< Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

Sugino-

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

supabonbon said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a
fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

Forged Hozan #205. (Grind the inside curve to make the edge
more squared).

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

supabonbon said:

Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed
gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

Quoted message said:

Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Tom Young said:

Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds
me: I have an old, old, (older than most readers of this
newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I still ride as a
"around town" bike, and it has a round headset "nut" with
4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a small version of
the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work) but
I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
adjustable cup and below the brake hanger. Anybody know if
such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport bikes
in the seventies. The small three-notch lockring holds the
bearing adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The
large locknut only holds the brake hanger.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

I opined:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Tom Young said:

Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook
reminds me: I have an old, old, (older than most readers
of this newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I still ride
as a "around town" bike, and it has a round headset "nut"
with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a small
version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't
work) but I've never found the right tool. This "nut"
sits above the adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at
one time.

Andy Muzi replied:

Quoted message said:

That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport
bikes in the seventies. The small three-notch lockring
holds the bearing adjustment ( use the other end of the
Hosan 205) The large locknut only holds the brake hanger.

Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my understanding
is that's what the small end is for. I never found anything
else it fit, anyway.

However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool to
a grinding wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in the
longitudinal dimension of the barb.

Sheldon "How Do People Manage Without Bench Grinders?" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------------------
----------+
| It is amazing how much "mature wisdom" resembles being
| too tired. | --Robert A. Heinlein |
+-----------------------------------------------------------
----------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone
617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-
find parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

(Sheldon Brown)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
> sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Tom Young said:

Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook
reminds me: I have an old, old, (older than most readers
of this newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I still ride
as a "around town" bike, and it has a round headset
"nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it
doesn't work) but I've never found the right tool. This
"nut" sits above the adjustable cup and below the brake
hanger. Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it
must of, at one time.

Quoted message said:

Andy Muzi replied:

Quoted message said:

That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport
bikes in the seventies. The small three-notch lockring
holds the bearing adjustment ( use the other end of the
Hosan 205) The large locknut only holds the brake hanger.

Sheldon Brown said:

Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my
understanding is that's what the small end is for. I never
found anything else it fit, anyway.

However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool
to a grinding wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in
the longitudinal dimension of the barb.

Indeed I did read too quickly and I think Sheldon's right.
The nicely forged Hozan needs a little finish work to fit
properly. On both ends.

And I never saw one with _four_ notches either, always
three. Hmm.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

i use one of these with the 6 of the 8 pins cut off. works
like a charm. cheap too.

tom%20Bracket&tc=Chainring%20Lockring%20Spanners&item_id=LF-
11D3

supabonbon said:

Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for
a fixed gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly
lockring. Thanks!

/s

I guess I am coming in late on this one..

Ok what I use is...

I'm not too keen on modifying tools.. but I guess the
industry rarely asks the frontline people about products.

I use a weird older park bb lockring wrench which has a
pivot so it kind of wraps around the lockring..

On Miche hubs the lockring is pretty spiff since theres a
Elite lockring tool that fits perfectly into the notches and
I believe there is 3 or 4 of them..

I would make alot of sense for the hub makers to start
providing a lockring tool.. I am still baffled by the sovos
how did they think were susposed to lock it down?

And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any tips
on preventing the sovos hubs from stripping out under
torque? The only hubs (with the exception of Phil) I have
found so far to not strip out under load (ie braking force)
are the Miche.. I used mine for a brake for quite a while
Dura ace and Campy I had people strip out.

Polly

A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

(Sheldon Brown)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
>> sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Tom Young said:

Quoted message said:

> Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook
> reminds me: I have an old, old, (older than most
> readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I
> still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a round
> headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it
> takes a small version of the Hozan hook (which I have,
> and it doesn't work) but I've never found the right
> tool. This "nut" sits above the adjustable cup and
> below the brake hanger. Anybody know if such a tool
> exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

Andy Muzi replied:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport
bikes in the seventies. The small three-notch lockring
holds the bearing adjustment ( use the other end of the
Hosan 205) The large locknut only holds the brake
hanger.

Sheldon Brown said:

Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my
understanding is that's what the small end is for. I
never found anything else it fit, anyway.

However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool
to a grinding wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in
the longitudinal dimension of the barb.

Indeed I did read too quickly and I think Sheldon's right.
The nicely forged Hozan needs a little finish work to fit
properly. On both ends.

And I never saw one with _four_ notches either, always
three. Hmm.

Well, I see I messed up on a couple of things with my
original post. Yes, there's 3 notches, not 4; I was going on
(bad) memory there. Also, since the picture of the Hozan
hook at Harris Cyclery only shows one end of the tool I said
"I have one" but what I really have is the Sugino bottom
bracket tool that has the hook on one end and a large "box
end" style tool on the other end.

In fact, scrolling down just a bit on the Harris Cyclery
page I see the Park HCW-5 tool that looks to have exactly
the correct 3-hook end on it that I need, though I'd
guess you'd have to remove the top locknut and brake
hanger to use it.

Tom Young

I said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>>>My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
>>>sheldonbrown.comtools.htmlOpen ↗

Tom Young said:

>>Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook
>>reminds me: I have an old, old, (older than most
>>readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet) 10-speed which I
>>still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a round
>>headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it
>>takes a small version of the Hozan hook (which I have,
>>and it doesn't work) but I've never found the right
>>tool. This "nut" sits above the adjustable cup and
>>below the brake hanger. Anybody know if such a tool
>>exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

Andy Muzi replied:

The small three-notch lockring holds the bearing

Quoted message said:

>adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The
>large locknut only holds the brake hanger.

I said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my
understanding is that's what the small end is for. I
never found anything else it fit, anyway.

However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool
to a grinding wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in
the longitudinal dimension of the barb.

Tom came back with:

Quoted message said:

Well, I see I messed up on a couple of things with my
original post. Yes, there's 3 notches, not 4; I was going
on (bad) memory there. Also, since the picture of the
Hozan hook at Harris Cyclery only shows one end of the
tool I said "I have one" but what I really have is the
Sugino bottom bracket tool that has the hook on one end
and a large "box end" style tool on the other end.

In fact, scrolling down just a bit on the Harris Cyclery
page I see the Park HCW-5 tool that looks to have exactly
the correct 3-hook end on it that I need, though I'd
guess you'd have to remove the top locknut and brake
hanger to use it.

Nope. That tool fits the same radius on both ends, and is
too large for the headset application. The three-notch end
fits _some_ old-style bottom bracket lockrings and is less
liable to cause cosmetic damage to the lockring.

I don't particularly recommend the HCW-5, mainly because
it's thinner than the Hozan, so it's more painful for those
of us with delicate hands to use.

Sheldon "Insert Nickname Here" Brown +----------------------------------------------------------
--+
| A touchstone to determine the actual worth of an | "intellectual"--
| find out how he feels about astrology. | --Robert A.
| Heinlein |
+-----------------------------------------------------------
-+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find
parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

Polly said:

And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any
tips on preventing the sovos hubs from stripping out
under torque?

Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-
Ace or E.A.I.

There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend to
have very much less thread engagement.

I also advise against using the hub for major "braking."
That's what the brake is for, and extreme resisting is
harmful to your leg muscles as well.

Sheldon "You Get What You Pay For" Brown +-------------------------------------------------
+
| To stay young requires unceasing cultivation | of the
| ability to unlearn old falsehoods. | --Robert A.
| Heinlein |
+-------------------------------------------------+ Harris
Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX
617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

Yes I agree with you Sheldon the rear hub shouldnt be used
for braking but.. alot of people do. I dont use the DA or
EAI? not even sure where to get the EAI from.. I usually
carry the Miche cogs.. what do you think about the quality
of them versus the others or are they compareable..? Btw
remember when I sold you (harris cyclery) a bunch of frames
I've been very curious how you guys made out with them.. any
of them break?

Polly

Quoted message said:

Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-
Ace or E.A.I.

There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend
to have very much less thread engagement.

I also advise against using the hub for major "braking."
That's what the brake is for, and extreme resisting is
harmful to your leg muscles as well.

Sheldon "You Get What You Pay For" Brown +-------------------------------------------------
+
| To stay young requires unceasing cultivation | of the
| ability to unlearn old falsehoods. | --Robert A.
| Heinlein |
+-------------------------------------------------+ Harris
Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX
617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

Sheldon Brown said:

Polly wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any
tips on preventing the sovos hubs from stripping out
under torque?

Quoted message said:

Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-
Ace or E.A.I.

Quoted message said:

There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend
to have very much less thread engagement.

Do you mean fewer threads, or less engagement due to
threading being further from spec?

I looked at some track cogs and most of them had about 6-7mm
of thread - several name brands and two without marking. One
had only 4.5-5mm of thread, this was an unbranded one which
is possibly stamped - it has a sort of rounded inner
diameter on the outer side before the threading begins.