Trek 8000 pedals too low

Marco Paganini said:

Hello All,

I just bought a used 2000 Trek 8000. The bike is a very welcome departure from my old and heavy
streel frame GT Saddleback. It climbs wonderfully but the pedals seem too low, meaning that places
I used to pass without problems (rocks, logs, etc) now require some "thinking" to prevent the
pedals from hitting the floor (or the obstacle itself). I checked and the crank length is the same
(175). Does anyone else experience the same problem?

Regards, Paga

you are supposed to move the pedal out of the way so that the poedal on what ever side your obstacle
is, the pedal is out of the way. Try passing obstables with pedals at 3/9 or put the pedal closest
to the rock at 12.

is, rider error not a bike error.

penny

Quoted message said:

I just bought a used 2000 Trek 8000. The bike is a very welcome departure from my old and heavy
streel frame GT Saddleback. It climbs wonderfully but the pedals seem too low, meaning that places
I used to pass without problems (rocks, logs, etc) now require some "thinking" to prevent the
pedals from hitting the floor (or the obstacle itself). I checked and the crank length is the same
(175). Does anyone else experience the same problem?

Its simply a lower bottom bracket height. Deal with it.

Small Black Dog

Penny S. said:

Marco Paganini said:

Hello All,

I just bought a used 2000 Trek 8000. The bike is a very welcome departure from my old and heavy
streel frame GT Saddleback. It climbs wonderfully but the pedals seem too low, meaning that places
I used to pass without problems (rocks, logs, etc) now require some "thinking" to prevent the
pedals from hitting the floor (or the obstacle itself). I checked and the crank length is the same
(175). Does anyone else experience the same problem?

Regards, Paga

you are supposed to move the pedal out of the way so that the poedal on what ever side your
obstacle is, the pedal is out of the way. Try passing obstables with pedals at 3/9 or put the
pedal closest to the rock at 12.

is, rider error not a bike error.

penny

Its definitely a technique problem, but I'm sure the bike has some to do with it. I rode a
Specialized Enduro Expert out in AZ, which is known for having a low BB, and I was definitely
hitting the pedals on stuff more than I should have been. Granted, I was also on flats with running
shoes (my clipless pedals and shoes were stolen along with a crapload of other stuff a couple days
before), so that didn't help, but it took me until almost the end of the ride to get used to the
different BB height. I don't hit stuff too much on my bike, but the stuff I thought I could clear
with the pedals turned out to be too tall for the enduro.

Just ride it for a while. Trek Hardtails are pretty standard in terms of geometry. The BB isn't too
low, and you might find the bike a little more stable because your center of gravity will be a
couple inches lower. It'll take some time, but it'll be second nature in no time.

Jon Bond

Penny S. said:

Marco Paganini said:

Hello All,

I just bought a used 2000 Trek 8000. The bike is a very welcome departure from my old and heavy
streel frame GT Saddleback. It climbs wonderfully but the pedals seem too low, meaning that places
I used to pass without problems (rocks, logs, etc) now require some "thinking" to prevent the
pedals from hitting the floor (or the obstacle itself). I checked and the crank length is the same
(175). Does anyone else experience the same problem?

Regards, Paga

you are supposed to move the pedal out of the way so that the poedal on what ever side your
obstacle is, the pedal is out of the way. Try passing obstables with pedals at 3/9 or put the
pedal closest to the rock at 12.

is, rider error not a bike error.

Did you read what he had to say? He said his previous clearance was fine.

Unfortunately the bottom bracket on your Trek is lower than your old GT. You'll have to get fatter
tires, longer front fork if your frame can handle the geometry change, shorter cranks (but I
wouldn't go shorter than your
175s), and/or you'll have to adjust your riding style a bit like Penny mentioned.

Greg

--
"Destroy your safe and happy lives before it is too late, the battles we fought were long and hard,
just not to be consumed by rock n' roll..." - The Mekons

G.T. said:

Penny S. said:

Marco Paganini said:

Hello All,

I just bought a used 2000 Trek 8000. The bike is a very welcome departure from my old and heavy
streel frame GT Saddleback. It climbs wonderfully but the pedals seem too low, meaning that
places I used to pass without problems (rocks, logs, etc) now require some "thinking" to prevent
the pedals from hitting the floor (or the obstacle itself). I checked and the crank length is
the same (175). Does anyone else experience the same problem?

Regards, Paga

you are supposed to move the pedal out of the way so that the poedal on what ever side your
obstacle is, the pedal is out of the way. Try passing obstables with pedals at 3/9 or put the
pedal closest to the rock at 12.

is, rider error not a bike error.

Did you read what he had to say? He said his previous clearance was fine.

since your are the second one to tell me that I'm some how wrong which is always a possibility
anyway <g> I guess I did miss something or not get it.

what ever. I'll' get over it, always do.

Penny

[email hidden] (Marco Paganini) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Thanks a lot for all comments. Like Penny said, I think I'll have to get "used" to it. Just putting
the pedals at 3/9 won't do. I'll have to decide where the obstacle is and put that side a little bit
higher. I'm still getting used to the "cage" style clip pedals that came standard with it. For
someone not used to having his shoes strapped to the pedals, it's a long shot (I've already had a
few "interesting accidents" because of it). The bike came with brand new clipless pedals, but given
my lack of ability with the current setup, I wonder if I should even try going clipless... 🙂

Again, my thanks to everybody.

Regards, Paga

"Marco Paganini" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Marco Paganini) wrote in message

news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Thanks a lot for all comments. Like Penny said, I think I'll have to get "used" to it. Just
putting the pedals at 3/9 won't do. I'll have to decide where the obstacle is and put that side a
little bit higher. I'm still getting used to the "cage" style clip pedals that came standard with
it. For someone not used to having his shoes strapped to the pedals, it's a long shot (I've
already had a few "interesting accidents" because of it). The bike came with brand new clipless
pedals, but given my lack of ability with the current setup, I wonder if I should even try going
clipless... 🙂

Learning curve with either pedal type. Many people use clipless, fall alot, then say they can't
imagine riding without them. I'm in that camp. Clipless sucks at first (lots of dumbass falls) then
becomes great. I rode with toeclips for a year or two as well and I liked those too, but I enjoy
clipless better, ymmv.

--
Chris
________________
www.chrisgroff.com

Quoted message said:

Again, my thanks to everybody.

Regards, Paga

That's so true on the Specialized Enduro, I'm having the same problem as well. My pedal will ground
itself sometimes even if I wheelie drop down a kerb. Now I know I'm not the only one having this
trouble. Heh...

Quoted message said:

I rode a Specialized Enduro Expert out in AZ, which is known for having a low BB, and I was
definitely hitting the pedals on stuff more than I should have been. Granted, I was also on flats
with running shoes (my clipless pedals and shoes were stolen along with a crapload of other stuff
a couple days before), so that didn't help, but it took me until almost the end of the ride to
get used to the different BB height. I don't hit stuff too much on my bike, but the stuff I
thought I could clear with the pedals turned out to be too tall for the enduro.