Breaking chain for fixed gear

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16" sprockets
and chainrings.

I've used SRAM/SuperLink QR links on both my tourer and my
ATB for decades with no breakage problem, but fixie chains
may be a special case.

Break the chain anywhere with a chain tool. A chain is and
endless, uniform circle, there is no correct or incorrect
link to "break" on it.

- -

"May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear
for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner geocities.comczcornerOpen ↗

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

Cam

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

It looks good and that alone inspires more confidence than
the black $6 generic BMX chain.

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX,
track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one
has me a little worried, but I'm hoping it's a dot thousands
rather than a decimal point. I joined it with the supplied
old style 3 piece spring clip master link.

I have about four hundred kilometers on it in mostly clean
dry conditions and have not broken it YET.

Marcus

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 16:28:15 GMT, Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com may

have said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear.

There is neither a right nor a wrong point if the chain is
not presently connectd using a master link.

Quoted message said:

My LBS advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as
it's breaking strength was less than regular links.

If the lbs is selling weak quick links, they should find
better ones. I have never had a strength-related connector
link failure with a single-speed chain in 40 years of riding
bikes. (I've had a couple of the old-style ones become
unclipped because of stuff hitting them and knocking the
spring clip off, but that's a different matter, and less of
a concern with the SRAM-style links.) Remember, regardless
of the fact that it's being used on a fixie, the load is
always in the same direction as far as the link is
concerned, and unless the chainline is running at an angle,
the load is much more even than on a derailleur-equipped
bike. I would expect no more trouble with the chain on a
fixie than on any other bike, despite the fact that it's in
motion continuously when the bike is moving. If you don't
learn to modulate your leg action to avoid wasting power
while riding, you'll wear *yourself* out before you wear out
the chain.

Quoted message said:

However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of
rejoined links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

A valid but in my opinion often overstated concern in this
instance, and part of the reason why the SRAM connectors
are favored so widely. On a single-speed setup, the side
forces should not be present which would tend to hasten
failure due to pin looseness, so it's probably less of a
concern than on multispeeds. Since I've always used
connector links on replacement single-speeds of mine, I've
never had to worry about it.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

I'll second the nomination of the SRAM PC48.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed
gear chain is much less than a mountain bike chain. Chain
tension is related to gear ratio.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

SRAM PC-48.

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

i think your 'LBS' should be your 'fLBS', former LBS. all
these special chain issues deal w/ those created by the
HyperGlide shift pattern on the sprockets that rip the
chain apart.

Quoted message said:

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

i'm getting good service w/ the KMC Z410(?), 8-USD.
quiet unless it needs a lube. it may be a full
bushing, i forget.

Cam said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links.

[censored]. Even if it is, these are certainly strong enough.
Remember that some fat ol' guy struggling up a hill in his
mountain bike, in his granny, exerts more stress on the
chain than Marty Nothstein in a sprint. (Hint: It's because
of the granny.) Lots of folks use these super-links with no
trouble, No reason to believe you won't.

Quoted message said:

However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of
rejoined links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Much more of a concern than the super-link is.

I use Sram. Since I have a bunch of 1/8" sprockets, I
use the 1/8" chain, the SR-1. $10-$15. If you have
3/32" sprockets and chainrings, use the 8-speed chain,
it's cheaper.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would
not reach a _`\(,_ | conclusion. -- George Bernard Shaw
(_)/ (_) |

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes,
BMX, track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200
Newton". Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals,
this last one has me a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | This is my religion. There is no need for temples;
no need for _`\(,_ | complicated philosophy. Our own
brain, our own heart is our (_)/ (_) | temple. The
philosophy is kindness. --The Dalai Lama

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes,
BMX, track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200
Newton". Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals,
this last one has me a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is
another story.

Greg

Quoted message said:

A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16"
sprockets and chainrings.

I think you mean 3/32". That's standard derailleur chain.
Track chainwheels and cogs take either 1/8" or 3/32".
Phil Brown

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied snaplink.
People want to make this difficult/mysterious but it is not.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Not for a shiny chain :-), for comparison I think my last
yucky black genuine Shimano 9 speed chain cost me $19.00
at the LBS.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes,
BMX, track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200
Newton". Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals,
this last one has me a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Yeah, IIRC 8.200 Newton is something less than 80lbs force.
I think the change to the use of the comma to define
thousands did not happen during translation to english for
the packaging text.

Marcus

A Muzi said:

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain
for fixies?

Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied
snaplink. People want to make this difficult/mysterious
but it is not.

That is it!!.....................The answer for the ??

Whether you use "road pitch" or "track pitch" 1/8" (track)
chains are strong, cheap and work great. They do make a
little noise if you are running road pitch gears

Peter Cole said:

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as it's
breaking strength was less than regular links. However,
with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed
gear chain is much less than a mountain bike chain. Chain
tension is related to gear ratio.

I don't think this is entirely true. The torque about your
rear axle is related to gear ratio, but your chain couldn't
care less what the rear sprocket is (when considering
tension anyway). The tension in the top run of chain is
determined only by the ratio of your crank length to
chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 01:49:00 GMT, "Jacobe Hazzard"

may have said:

Peter Cole said:

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS
advised me not to use the proprietary quick link as
it's breaking strength was less than regular links.
However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity
of rejoined links (ie. short pins with mushroomed
heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed
gear chain is much less than a mountain bike chain. Chain
tension is related to gear ratio.

I don't think this is entirely true. The torque about your
rear axle is related to gear ratio, but your chain couldn't
care less what the rear sprocket is (when considering
tension anyway). The tension in the top run of chain is
determined only by the ratio of your crank length to
chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

Yes, and the small ring on the typical mountain bike is
*much* smaller than the ring on a fixed-gear bike, while the
crank length is approximately the same. Assuming, then, that
the rider is using the small gear because it's really
needed, the tension on the chain is going to be much higher
than it would be on a fixed-gear in the same circumstances.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

B. C. Cletta said:

i'm getting good service w/ the KMC Z410(?), 8-USD.
quiet unless it needs a lube. it may be a full bushing,
i forget.

Nope, it's bushingless, unfortunately. That's what I'm
using at the moment (too soon to rate it). Funny, it cost
me $8 Canadian.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is
farther away.

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:29:40 GMT, "G.T." <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

David L. Johnson said:

Marcus Coles said:

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

Quoted message said:

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes,
BMX, track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200
Newton". Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals,
this last one has me a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is
another story.

8.2 Newtons = 1.843 pound-force (lbf)

Michael J. Klein Please replace mousepotato with
asiancastings

Michael J. Klein said:

G.T. said:

David L. Johnson said:

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:41 +0000, Marcus Coles wrote:

> My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x
> 1/8", nickel plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

> According to the package it is intended for "citybikes,
> BMX, track and indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200
> Newton". Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals,
> this last one has me a little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is
another story.

8.2 Newtons = 1.843 pound-force (lbf)

Have none of you seen the punctuation conventions of other
countries? 8.200 in all probability means 8,200. Some of you
need to get out more.

FYI - "foot-lbs"

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Jacobe Hazzard" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Peter Cole said:

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a
fixed gear chain is much less than a mountain bike
chain. Chain tension is related to gear ratio.

I don't think this is entirely true. The torque about your
rear axle is related to gear ratio, but your chain
couldn't care less what the rear sprocket is (when
considering tension anyway). The tension in the top run of
chain is determined only by the ratio of your crank length
to chainring diameter and the force applied to the pedal
perpendicular to the crank.

Thanks for the correction. Of course to get a small
chainring on a fixed gear, you'd need an impossibly small
rear sprocket. That, and the maximum track sprocket size,
pretty much sets chainring size on a fixer.