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Track Disc Wheel Question

Started by Rob · · Last activity · 10 posts · 944 views

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Road Cycling
Published
10 April 2004
Last activity
13 April 2004
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Rob
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  1. I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
    wheels really..can one use a quick release on the track
    or must in be bolt and nut type of axel ? are they hard
    to change ?

    Thanks Rob Wille

  2. Rob said:

    I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
    wheels really..can one use a quick release on the track or
    must in be bolt and nut type of axel ? are they hard to
    change ?

    Thanks Rob Wille


    You need track-bolted hub lockers/retainers rather than a
    quick-release system.

    But it isn't hard to do. Simply get yourself a couple of
    15mm wrenches and eat your porridge.

    --
    le Vent a Dos Davey Crockett Six-Day site:
    members.rogers.comsixday.html

  3. "Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
    track wheels


    really..can

    Quoted message said:

    one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
    and nut type of


    axel

    Quoted message said:

    ? are they hard to change ?

    If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also
    use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the
    Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if you've
    got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog (e.g.,
    older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about doing
    this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the
    side with a strong jump. It works just fine with a front
    wheel, however.

    Andy Coggan

  4. In article <[email hidden]>, Andy

    Coggan said:

    "Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
    wheels


    really..can

    Quoted message said:

    one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
    and nut type of


    axel

    Quoted message said:

    ? are they hard to change ?

    If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
    also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of
    the Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if
    you've got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog
    (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant
    about doing this on the rear, as you might easily pull the
    wheel to the side with a strong jump. It works just fine
    with a front wheel, however.

    Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
    are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
    an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
    allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
    allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
    this purpose.

    For the original poster, best to ask the officials at
    your local track about their policy on skewers. Some
    will allow skewers on the front wheel if the lever is
    taped to the fork.

    -WG

  5. "warren" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
    are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
    an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
    allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
    allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
    this purpose.

    I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the
    clamping pressure of the skewers is similar to that of the
    ZIPP method or the traditional axle bolts.

  6. As others have mentioned, use allen head skewers for
    front wheels.

    I've used the allen head skewers for rea wheels also. I
    grease the threads to get extra clamping force. But a much
    better way to go is to use a cassette converter if it is a
    Shimano hub: sheldonbrown.comfixed
    hubs.html

    Its at the top of the page. Switching back and forth is not
    instant but not too bad.

    Bob Schwartz [email hidden]

  7. On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:35:55 GMT, warren <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Andy Coggan said:

    "Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
    track wheels


    really..can

    Quoted message said:

    one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
    and nut type of


    axel

    Quoted message said:

    ? are they hard to change ?

    If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
    also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of
    the Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if
    you've got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog
    (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant
    about doing this on the rear, as you might easily pull
    the wheel to the side with a strong jump. It works just
    fine with a front wheel, however.

    Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
    are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
    an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
    allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
    allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
    this purpose.

    It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's track
    hubs and disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head bolts in
    favor of traditionally nutted axles. The old system was
    pretty marginal (particularly at the rear), but it worked as
    well and as often as it did largely because there was only a
    gap of a few mm between the head of the bolt and the axle
    end into which it was threaded.

    On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to
    which you refer must pass through the entire over-locknut
    axle width plus the left and right dropout before engaging
    the nut at the other end. On the front, that's a distance of
    110 mm or so, the rear must span around 130 mm. Consider
    that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 mm in
    diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it is
    wide to a recommended torque value that's second only to the
    torque normally applied to secure your bike's cranks. Think
    you can get it tight enough for consistent security without
    wringing the head off?

    -------------------------------
    John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
    businesscycles.combusinesscycles.com Now in our twenty-first year.
    Our catalog of track equipment: eighth year online
    -------------------------------

  8. In article <[email hidden]>, John Dacey

    Quoted message said:
    warren said:

    In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Andy Coggan said:

    "Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...
    > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
    > track wheels
    really..can
    > one use a quick release on the track or must in be
    > bolt and nut type of
    axel
    > ? are they hard to change ?

    If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
    also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one
    of the Allen head non-quick-release types. However,
    even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a
    fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be
    hesistant about doing this on the rear, as you might
    easily pull the wheel to the side with a strong jump.
    It works just fine with a front wheel, however.

    Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
    are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they
    use an allen screw with washer that is almost identical
    to the allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers
    with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere
    for this purpose.

    It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's
    track hubs and disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head
    bolts in favor of traditionally nutted axles. The old
    system was pretty marginal (particularly at the rear), but
    it worked as well and as often as it did largely because
    there was only a gap of a few mm between the head of the
    bolt and the axle end into which it was threaded.

    On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to
    which you refer must pass through the entire over-locknut
    axle width plus the left and right dropout before engaging
    the nut at the other end. On the front, that's a distance
    of 110 mm or so, the rear must span around 130 mm.
    Consider that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 mm
    in diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it
    is wide to a recommended torque value that's second only
    to the torque normally applied to secure your bike's
    cranks. Think you can get it tight enough for consistent
    security without wringing the head off?

    Hasn't happened yet.

    -WG

  9. In article <[email hidden]>, Carl Sundquist

    Quoted message said:

    "warren" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
    are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they
    use an allen screw with washer that is almost identical
    to the allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers
    with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere
    for this purpose.

    I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the
    clamping pressure of the skewers is similar to that of the
    ZIPP method or the traditional axle bolts.

    It just has to work, and it does. If you're really worried
    about pulling the wheel you can also use those adjustable
    clips that go around the axle and droput.

    The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that
    some people don't have the correct amount of axle exposed in
    the dropout. I find these two allen screw methods easier
    than the traditional 15mm bolts because the 15mm bolts and
    their washers are easier to move around (change chain
    tightness) while you're tightening them.

    -WG

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,

    warren said:

    The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that
    some people don't have the correct amount of axle exposed
    in the dropout. I find these two allen screw methods
    easier than the traditional 15mm bolts because the 15mm
    bolts and their washers are easier to move around (change
    chain tightness) while you're tightening them.

    -WG

    I haven't seen the Zipp bolt setup, but it sounds a lot
    like the arrangement on the Phil Wood hubs, with one
    difference. The Phils don't have any axle that goes into
    the dropout, as the sockethead cap screws have a washer
    that has a sleeve section that is the diameter of the
    axle. You are correct that those are pretty easy to work
    when adjusting chain tension. The bolt/washer setup
    doesn't seem to move the wheel around when you're
    tightening them.

    You can definitely put far more tension on those bolts (I
    believe they're 8mm) than you can put on a bolt-style
    skewer that goes all the way across a hub. Those are only
    a 5mm bolt, and will stretch like mad because of all the
    unsupported length. I had Control Tech skewers like that
    for a while on my road bike, and I could pull a wheel
    crooked in angled dropouts when taking off from a light
    while seated.

    --
    tanx, Howard

    Q: Can we call it a quagmire yet?

    remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?

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