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Caponatina
For years I went about making caponata, the sweet-and-sour
Sicilian eggplant dish, the way I always thought it should
be made (mostly patterned on Progresso's version in the
little tin can, which is what I grew up eating). Then I went
to Palermo and ate many versions, all cleaner tasting,
firmer textured, and less stewed. Caponatina is a more
finely chopped version of caponata, and I prefer it as an
appetizer or to spoon onto toast for bruschetta. Sautéed
shellfish is often served on top of caponata in Sicily, but
I find it takes away from the arresting sweet-and-sour taste
of the dish, so I do without it, preferring to garnish the
dish with almonds or pistachios. Serve this as an appetizer
or as a first course. I find it a bit too strongly seasoned
to eat as a side dish; it can overpower any other flavors on
the plate.
(Makes 4 servings)
Olive oil 2 medium eggplants (I'd use the beautiful streaky,
light purple variety, which are not at all bitter), cut into
small cubes (skin left on) Salt Freshly ground black pepper
1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia, cut into small dice 3
tender inner celery stalks, cut into small dice, plus a
handful of celery leaves, chopped 1 ripe pear (see Note),
peeled and cut into small dice 1 summer garlic clove, minced
2 round ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into small
dice (if they are very juicy, drain them for 10 minutes in a
colander) About 1 heaping tablespoon sugar About 2 to 3
tablespoons high quality red-wine vinegar A small palmful of
salt-packed capers, soaked and rinsed to remove excess salt
A handful of green olives (French Picholine olives are a
good choice), pitted and roughly chopped A handful of
toasted pine nuts A small handful of shelled, unsalted
pistachios A dozen basil leaves, lightly chopped
In a large skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over
medium flame. Add the eggplant, season with salt and black
pepper, and sauté until tender but still holding its shape
(you don't want to cook it into a mush). Transfer the
eggplant into a large serving bowl.
Wipe out the skillet. Add a few more tablespoons of olive
oil over medium heat and add the onion and celery, including
leaves. Sauté until the vegetables start to soften, about 4
minutes. Add the pear and sauté a few minutes longer. Add
the sugar and the vinegar and cook until the vinegar has
reduced to almost nothing. Add the capers, green olives, and
pine nuts. Add this to the eggplant and mix well.
Wipe out the skillet again, add a little more olive oil,
and sauté the garlic over medium heat just until it gives
off an aroma, less than a minute. Add the tomato and sauté
a few minutes longer, just until it heats through. Season
with salt, and pour into the bowl with the other
ingredients. Mix well.
The caponatina should have a pronounced sweet-and-sour
taste. If it needs more vinegar and sugar, heat them
together in a small pan until the sugar is dissolved and the
vinegar has reduced, then mix them in. Balance the sweetness
with a touch more salt and black pepper, if necessary. Let
sit a few hours, unrefrigerated, to develop flavor. Right
before serving, mix in the basil leaves and garnish with the
pistachios. Serve at room temperature with hot, toasted
Italian bread slices that have been brushed with olive oil.
If you need to make the caponatina a day ahead and
refrigerate it, make sure to return it to room temperature
before serving (the cold will mute its flavor).
A Note About Using Pear in Caponata
Pear was not something I ever included before, or was even
aware of being used in any version of caponata in Sicily,
until I discovered it as an ingredient in a caponata recipe
in a cookbook I bought in Palermo. So I tried it, and I like
the sweetness and depth it adds to the dish.
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