Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Racing wheels advice

Started by mossi · · Last activity · 13 posts · 1,742 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
7 April 2004
Last activity
8 April 2004
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mossi
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  1. Hi,

    want to upgrade my Ritchey Aero wheels for racing purposes. what would you recommend for $300-$500. what are the parameters to look for - rims depth? total weight? number of spokes?

  2. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by mossi
    Hi,

    want to upgrade my Ritchey Aero wheels for racing purposes. what would you recommend for $300-$500. what are the parameters to look for - rims depth? total weight? number of spokes?

    What kind of racing? Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon.
    How much do you weigh?
    Anything wrong with the wheels you already have?

    If you want to learn some of the details of wheel aerodynamics:
    http://www.bsn.com/cycling/WheelAerodynamics.html

  3. $300-$500 is difficult..

    Maybe the Campagolo Eurus?

    Watch for 1. Tunulat, 2. Deep rim, 3. not more then 24 spokes

    You can gain more time for less $$ by buying a TT bar.

  4. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by daveornee
    What kind of racing? Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon.

    Really? Then why is it I can sit in a pack comfortably at 25 mph but not at 30+?

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by asgelle
    Really? Then why is it I can sit in a pack comfortably at 25 mph but not at 30+?

    Maybe it's cuz you need more spinach or wheaties,or your aerodynamics and not necessarily the wheels,which only make a small contribution.

  6. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by asgelle
    Really? Then why is it I can sit in a pack comfortably at 25 mph but not at 30+?

    Please don't take my response out of context. I was responding to aerodynamic differences in wheels in the $300 - $500 range and improvements over what he already has.

    You will also note that I referenced an article that has air resistance in wheels at 29 MPH.

  7. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by boudreaux
    Maybe it's cuz you need more spinaach or wheaties,or your aerodynamics and not necessarily the wheels,which only mkea a small contribution.

    And perhaps you need to work on your reading comprehension. Can you parse the difference between the following two sentences:

    "Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your [sic] TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon."

    "WHEEL Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your [sic] TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon.

  8. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by asgelle
    And perhaps you need to work on your reading comprehension. Can you parse the difference between the following two sentences:

    "Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your [sic] TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon."

    "WHEEL Aerodynamics isn't a big deal unless your [sic] TTing or the bicycle leg of a Triathalon.

    Yes, I can. You can too, as the context of the original post does it for you.
    Can you provide helpful advice to the original post?

  9. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by daveornee
    Yes, I can. You can too, as the context of the original post does it for you.
    Can you provide helpful advice to the original post?

    Not me, but how about Kraig Willett? Evaluation of high performance bicycle wheels at

    http://www.bike.com/template.asp?date=8%2F22%2F2001&lsectionnumber=6

    or bicycle wheel performance at
    http://www.biketechreview.com/archive/wheel_theory.htm

    Bottom line, 1) the only meaningful performance benefit from changing wheels comes through a reduction in drag. Reducing rotational inertia provides less than 1% of the benefit of reducing drag and reducing weight gives only 1/10 the benefit of reduced drag on a flat course and even on an uphill course only provides 1/2 the benefit. 2) Even for a rider sitting in a large pack in a crit, aero wheels will reduce power requirements by 2-2.5%. 3) Reducing front and rear wheel drag by using a deep profile aero rim can reduce power required by ~2.5%, say 7-10 W. 3) Whether that's significant or not can only be judged by the individual rider.

  10. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by asgelle
    Not me, but how about Kraig Willett? Evaluation of high performance bicycle wheels at

    http://www.bike.com/template.asp?date=8%2F22%2F2001&lsectionnumber=6

    or bicycle wheel performance at
    http://www.biketechreview.com/archive/wheel_theory.htm

    Bottom line, 1) the only meaningful performance benefit from changing wheels comes through a reduction in drag. Reducing rotational inertia provides less than 1% of the benefit of reducing drag and reducing weight gives only 1/10 the benefit of reduced drag on a flat course and even on an uphill course only provides 1/2 the benefit. 2) Even for a rider sitting in a large pack in a crit, aero wheels will reduce power requirements by 2-2.5%. 3) Reducing front and rear wheel drag by using a deep profile aero rim can reduce power required by ~2.5%, say 7-10 W. 3) Whether that's significant or not can only be judged by the individual rider.


    Good information, but which wheels are the $300 - $500 that will give the original poster the aero advantages over his existing wheels?

  11. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by daveornee
    Good information, but which wheels are the $300 - $500 that will give the original poster the aero advantages over his existing wheels?

    I have a pair of Zipp 440's I found on e-bay and I've been so satisfied with them that I honestly don't know the state of the art available; though Zipp, Hed, Reynolds. Spinery, and others all make deep profile wheels. What I would say is the goal is a wheel with a rim depth 50mm or more and a reasonable spoke count. Consider a used set if that's what it takes to get into the price range. You could also look for a deep rim only and build it onto the current rims. I don't think I'd get anything with less than a 50mm profile. I'd rather save up until I could afford a pair that deep.

    One final thing, it's slightly off the original topic, but if I had $300-$500 to spend on getting faster, my only choice would be a good local coach. Coaching would yield much greater improvement than any equipment one might consider.

  12. Wow!
    what a discussion.

    Ok, i am 75Kg, 1.73, and ride for Triathlons.

    Thought of the following:
    1. Bontager Race Lite - nice spoke but a bit heavy.
    2. Rolf Comp - Can be found for $375 but of 2000 or 2001 model
    3. American class 350 - know nothing about them
    4. Shimano R540 - too flex?

    There are probably others...

    Guys- thanks.

  13. an add on
    FSA RD-200 - can't say

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