j-p.s said:) How tall are you and how long are your cranks? Have you checked that your ) leg is straight when
you sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal at ) the bottom of the stroke?
Yeah. I had a go on the way home, and it looks like if I cycle slightly knock-kneed then the
strain goes away. I wonder if the pedals on my new bike are farther apart than on my old one?
They could easily be. If so and the problem can't be solved any other way then it may be worth
fitting different cranks, bottom bracket and/or pedals to get a different "Q" factor.
Quoted message said:Anyway, I have the saddle so that my knees have a tiny bend when the pedals are at the bottom:
when my heel is on the pedal instead of the ball of my foot, the leg is practically straight.
It may possibly be slightly too high, which can also result in knee strain. To test, I would try
lowering the seatpost by 3mm at a time.
But it might just be New Bike Syndrome. Perhaps you are pedalling in too-high gears without
realising it whilst getting used to the new bike. That's something I've done myself.
Quoted message said:I will cycle with my knees slightly closer together - my legs are very slightly shaped like this
anyway - and see if it goes away.
You should not have to consiously alter the position of knees, legs or feet, and If fact, I don't
think I could manage to for more than two minutes!
[from orginal post:]
Quoted message said:Perhaps I should be cycling more/less pigeon-toed?
Only if the bike is forcing you to place feet in an unnatural position that you can't cope with, and
then only correct it by adjusting/changing components or position, not by using feet or legs
differently, ie. unnaturally.
Some people are naturally pigeon-toed or duck-footed. Pedals should be able to cope with this. If
using clipless shoes, experiment with cleat position (rotation) or even different pedals with more
float; if toe clips, try loosening straps. (Plain platform/block pedals shouldn't be relevant).
~PB