On extracting the drive side crank on a pair of FSA compact cranks, the self extracting bolt stripped and pulled out of the crank arm.
The end result was damage to both the self-extracting cover of the bolt and the crank arm.
My LBS was kind enough to realize that the extracting bolt either was defective, or the system is defective. In either case, they replace the crank arm and I am now using the standard crank extractor.
Has anyone else had problems with these self- extracting bolts?
Only once, but that was my fault. I let the cap nut get too loose in the crank arm.
Now I always check the cap to be sure it's screwed in tight BEFORE removing the crank. If it looks like it's becoming striped, I carefully unscrew it and use a regular extracting tool, which has more thread length. Again, carefully.
- - "May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills!"
Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"
On extracting the drive side crank on a pair of FSA compact cranks, the self extracting bolt stripped and pulled out of the crank arm.
The end result was damage to both the self-extracting cover of the bolt and the crank arm.
My LBS was kind enough to realize that the extracting bolt either was defective, or the system is defective. In either case, they replace the crank arm and I am now using the standard crank extractor.
Has anyone else had problems with these self- extracting bolts?
Yes. They are very tight and completely dry on new bicycles. We shoot oil under the cap before extraction of factory new bike cranks. At assembly, we lube all the faces and threads.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971