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What to take on a hill walk?

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
19 March 2004
Last activity
27 March 2004
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John Langfield
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  1. You have probably heard this question before but I'll ask
    it anyway.

    What do you take with you when you walk in the Lakes. This
    includes what you wear.

    I always seem to either take to much or to little.

    Starting at the top and working down What is the best type
    of hat? I use a baseball cap most of the time and a Buff the
    other times.

    My upper body has a Berghaus base layer, a fleece and a Gore
    waterproof. Sometimes I take a fleece jumper but never use
    it. And when I don't take it I wish I had.

    The bottom halve are covered by CK undies and usually
    Craghopper pants. I always take waterproof trousers but have
    only used them once in the last 15 years.

    My feet are covered with cotton and wool socks and a pair of
    Berghaus leather boots.

    In my sack I usually stuff my butties, flask, bottle of
    water, map, compass, a sponge mat to sit on, big orange
    plastic bag, one walking pole and the fleece jumper /
    waterproof trousers that I never use.

    John.

  2. "John Langfield" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    You have probably heard this question before but I'll ask
    it anyway.

    What do you take with you when you walk in the Lakes. This
    includes what


    you

    Quoted message said:

    wear.

    Depends on the season, but for winter walking I
    generally take

    JL longsleeve top (basically a synthetic base layer) Pair
    of cotton boxers. I know, but they do me fine. I own some
    Polar synthetic stuff that I wore last year in Italy - I
    might take these next time. Trouble with the synthetic
    stuff is that it stinks after one day, whereas cotton can
    be worn for several days in a row 🙂 Ronhills Walking socks
    - I forget what the make is. Probably Thorlo something or
    other. Scarpa mantas.

    On top of that, I'll have either on, or in my bag
    Triplepoint trousers Microfibre top Berghaus fleece Berghaus
    goretex coat Skiing hat Sunglasses

    plus sarnies, a couple of mars bars (kept in my coat to
    avoid them freezing solid), water, map, compass, whistle,
    torch, mobile, survival bag, and someone in the party will
    have a first aid kit. The JL, fleece, and coat kept me warm
    enough up in Skiddaw in foul weather in January - don't
    think I've ever worn both the microfibre and fleece when
    actually moving

  3. John Langfield said:

    You have probably heard this question before but I'll ask
    it anyway.

    What do you take with you when you walk in the Lakes. This
    includes what you wear.

    I always seem to either take to much or to little.

    there is no such thing as a happy medium!

    Quoted message said:


    Starting at the top and working down What is the best type
    of hat? I use a baseball cap most of the time and a Buff
    the other times.

    Hats, I've got loads of them! Cold weather brings out
    the Lowe alpine Mountain Hat. Sunny weather now brings a
    View From sunhat - a nice wide brim with a cord to keep
    it on in the wind. If I'm doing a low level walk the
    rabbit fur felt Akubra comes out and that is protection
    against wind and rain.

    Quoted message said:

    My upper body has a Berghaus base layer, a fleece and a
    Gore waterproof. Sometimes I take a fleece jumper but never
    use it. And when I don't take it I wish I had.

    By baselayers are a choice of SS Lowe Alpine, SS non cotton
    T shirts (TNF F&T etc) LS Helly Hansen or LS View From zip
    neck. A fleece always comes along and if really cold a
    lightweight down jacket for stops and a Lowe Alpine Foraker
    to keep the wind rain out.

    Quoted message said:

    The bottom halve are covered by CK undies and usually
    Craghopper pants. I always take waterproof trousers but
    have only used them once in the last 15 years.

    My favourite keks are the old pattern Lowe Alpine briefs.
    I've only got one serviceable pair now. I make do with M&S
    ones (mw™ Mesh Slip - 96% viscose, 4% elastane) when I go
    away for more than one day. For cold weather I use Helly
    long bottoms

    Trousers are either Rohan 100% nylon or if it is very cold a
    pair of fleece bottoms. Overtrousers get used quite often, I
    go out in the rain and they keep the wind out at higher
    altitudes in the winter.

    Quoted message said:

    My feet are covered with cotton and wool socks and a pair
    of Berghaus leather boots.

    Bridgedale Coolmax or thermal liner socks and wool nylon mix
    main socks. I use sandals [1], lightweight boots and heavy
    winter boots to take crampons in ascending order of walk
    grade and temperature.

    Quoted message said:

    In my sack I usually stuff my butties, flask, bottle of
    water, map, compass, a sponge mat to sit on, big orange
    plastic bag, one walking pole and the fleece jumper /
    waterproof trousers that I never use.

    I used to just stuff my butties in a bag but have started
    taking a box that is big enough for three rounds of
    butties/sarnies/pieces [2], a pack of eight Tunnocks Caramel
    bars and a piece of fruitcake. For drink I take a water
    bottle and refill as required.

    There is always a survival bag in my pack. I never take it
    out. The whistle is always attached to the bag too.

    I use wo walking poles, one with a camera mount.

    And most importantly...

    THE GPS. To record a track. This is in an old mobile phone
    case clipped to teh D rings on my rucksack straps.

    CAMERA GEAR. This is in a CCS Walaby pouch clipped into the
    D-rings on my rucksack straps except the rripod which is in
    the compression straps.

    35mm SLR (likely to be retired soon - I feel a Minolta A2
    comming on) 2 Mpix Digicam Lightweight tripod.

    [1] Without socks.
    [2] Delete whichever is not appropriate
    --
    Phil Cook looking north over the park to the
    "Westminster Gasworks"

  4. John Langfield said:

    What do you take with you when you walk

    Currently my typical walking gear consists of a digital
    camera, film camera, panoramic camera, additional lenses,
    filters, cleaning cloths, shutter release cables, film,
    memory cards, tripod, bean bag, silica gel, watch, GPS,
    spare batteries, mobile phone, torch, knee support, first
    aid kit, hat, gloves & waterproofs.

    Boots are handy too sometimes, and walking poles if there's
    steep terrain involved.

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  5. Phil Cook said:

    35mm SLR (likely to be retired soon - I feel a Minolta A2
    comming on)

    Why the Minolta A2?

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  6. Phil Cook said:
    John Langfield said:

    You have probably heard this question before but I'll ask
    it anyway.

    What do you take with you when you walk in the Lakes. This
    includes what you wear.

    I use sandals [1], lightweight boots and heavy winter boots
    to
    take crampons in ascending order of walk grade and
    temperature.

    (Visions of you in the freezing cold doing an easy ramble in
    sandals...)

    Quoted message said:

    I used to just stuff my butties in a bag but have started
    taking a box that is big enough for three rounds of
    butties/sarnies/pieces [2], a pack of eight Tunnocks
    Caramel bars and a piece of fruitcake.

    Ah hah - the mystery of who eats the 4 million biscuits made
    every week, solved at last.

    I expect my gear is fairly typical:

    Cotton undies - habit really. Never felt the need to get
    "technical" in that area. One of two Coolmax t-shirts
    depending on temperature. Microfleece pullover suffices
    except in rain or real cold, remove fleece and add shell
    jacket (not Goretex), put fleece back on when stopping or
    effective temperatures go sub-zero. Sometimes replace shell
    jacket with a windproof fleece if rain is very unlikely.
    Trousers are either el cheapo Milletts poly-cotton (with
    umpteen pockets) or recently acquired Trackster Treks
    (warmer and less "posing" than the original Ron Hills, but
    not so easy to find). Ultimax socks and one of full leather
    boots, Fellmaster suede boots, or hiking shoes according to
    conditions.

    Rucksack holds death bag, sit-mat, penknife, first-aid kit,
    compass, map, pen, torch, waterproof bag with wallet, keys
    and (switched-off) mobile, tissues, drink, food (usually
    butties, malt loaf, flapjack, Mars bars, fruit). Hat, gloves
    and map tuck into gap between sac and mesh back, camera case
    velcro'd onto hip belt.

    [In summer, a whole lot less.]

    Blimey, no wonder I'm knackered afterwards...

    --
    When Mozart was my age, he was dead.

    Mail john rather than nospam...

  7. Paul Saunders said:
    Phil Cook said:

    35mm SLR (likely to be retired soon - I feel a Minolta A2
    comming on)

    Why the Minolta A2?

    luminous-landscape.comkonica
    minolta-a2.shtml

    I can't afford the DSLR I'd like and it's too heavy anyway.

    A2 is about £650 and 565g + battery, so it fits my
    pocket nicely.
    --
    Phil Cook looking north over the park to the
    "Westminster Gasworks"

  8. "John Laird" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On Thu, 18 Mar 2004 13:35:00 +0000, Phil Cook <urwalk@p-t-

    cook.RfErMeOeVsEeCrAvPeS.co.uk said:
    John Langfield said:

    You have probably heard this question before but I'll
    ask it anyway.

    What do you take with you when you walk in the Lakes.
    This includes what


    you

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    wear.

    I use sandals [1], lightweight boots and heavy winter
    boots to
    take crampons in ascending order of walk grade and
    temperature.

    (Visions of you in the freezing cold doing an easy ramble
    in sandals...)

    Quoted message said:

    I used to just stuff my butties in a bag but have started
    taking a box that is big enough for three rounds of
    butties/sarnies/pieces [2], a pack of eight Tunnocks
    Caramel bars and a piece of fruitcake.

    Ah hah - the mystery of who eats the 4 million biscuits
    made every week, solved at last.

    I expect my gear is fairly typical:

    Cotton undies - habit really. Never felt the need to get
    "technical" in that area. One of two Coolmax t-shirts
    depending on temperature. Microfleece pullover suffices
    except in rain or real cold, remove fleece


    and

    Quoted message said:

    add shell jacket (not Goretex), put fleece back on when
    stopping or effective temperatures go sub-zero. Sometimes
    replace shell jacket with a windproof fleece if rain is
    very unlikely. Trousers are either el cheapo Milletts poly-
    cotton (with umpteen pockets) or recently acquired
    Trackster Treks (warmer and less "posing" than the
    original Ron Hills, but not so


    easy

    Quoted message said:

    to find). Ultimax socks and one of full leather boots,
    Fellmaster suede boots, or hiking shoes according to
    conditions.

    Rucksack holds death bag, sit-mat, penknife, first-aid
    kit, compass, map, pen, torch, waterproof bag with
    wallet, keys and (switched-off) mobile, tissues, drink,
    food (usually butties, malt loaf, flapjack, Mars bars,
    fruit). Hat, gloves and map tuck into gap between sac and
    mesh back,


    camera

    Quoted message said:

    case velcro'd onto hip belt.

    Yes to all that but I have to have a small flask with a hot
    drink ('cos I'm a wuss, I guess). Glad someone said Tunnocks
    wafers and malt loaf. I also carry dates (the food that is,
    not the paramours) - not to everyone's taste but, if you
    like them, full of sugar and nice to eat in the cold. One of
    the best things I didn't carry was a survival shelter- if
    there's more than one of you and you stop, you stand in
    circle, flap it up in the air, bring the edge down behind
    you and sit on it, amazing how cozy it is in nasty weather
    for a stop and a look at the map.

    --
    Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

  9. Phil Cook said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why the Minolta A2?


    luminous-landscape.comkonica
    minolta-a2.shtm l

    Sounds a very interesting camera!

    Quoted message said:

    I can't afford the DSLR I'd like and it's too heavy
    anyway.

    I'm sure the weight wouldn't be that much of a problem if
    you could afford it! :-) And it's really not very heavy
    anyway. The 300D with supplied lens plus a digital 55-200 is
    a very lightweight package for an SLR. Those plus a
    lightweight tripod wouldn't be too much of a strain to take
    backpacking, less than I've been carrying in the past.

    But having said that, an all in one 8MP compact with a well
    ranged zoom lens is a very tempting option for ultralight
    backpacking. I'd like one myself for just that purpose but I
    can't really justify the cost at the moment, the money would
    be better spent on lenses for my 300D.

    Quoted message said:

    A2 is about £650 and 565g + battery, so it fits my
    pocket nicely.

    Is that all? Nice price.

    A few interesting comments from Michael Reichmann's article;

    "Many newcomers to digital photography are frustrated by
    the fact that cameras like the A2 produce images that are
    not as sharp straight out of the camera as they expect them
    to be. Of course this has nothing to do with any lack of
    resolution, but rather with the fact that these particular
    files need an appropriate amount of USM to look their best,
    and the amount they need tends to be at least 50% higher
    than one might be used to from other cameras. When properly
    sharpened and noise reduced these files are excellent, but
    it does take some work to get them to that state. As a
    consequence, beginners and those not familiar and
    comfortable with image post-processing may become
    frustrated with their initial results, and so cameras like
    the A2 may not be the best choice for someone unwilling to
    make the effort."

    "While a 6MP DSLR will produce somewhat better images, they
    will not print as large without ressing up, and for may
    users the difference will not be that significant."

    Better yet not as large? Seemingly contradictary. It's worth
    noting that since digital compacts have a 4:3 ratio instead
    of the 3:2 ratio of DSLRs, most of the extra 2 million
    pixels contribute to increasing the height of the photo. The
    width is not that much greater and I prefer the 3:2 ratio
    anyway. With most pics I'd rather crop the top and bottom
    than the sides.

    "In the meantime I'm comfortable in saying that just about
    every 6MP DSLR on the market will produce superior image
    quality to the 8MP cameras that I've tested so far. Their
    files will be sharper and have less noise."

    So if the DSLRs are sharper then they can be enlarged more.

    "I don't think though that the A2, or any of the 8MP cameras
    that I've tested or seen so far, will satisfy a photographer
    who is really quality conscious and who wants to be able to
    make prints bigger than about 10X12"."

    Seems a surprising statement to make. I'd expect to be able
    to make decent A3+ prints from 8MP.

    Why are the 8MP cameras less sharp than DSLRs anyway?
    Inferior lens quality? Softening due to noise reduction
    during raw conversion?

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  10. Quoted message said:

    Currently my typical walking gear consists of a digital
    camera, film camera, panoramic camera, additional lenses,
    filters, cleaning cloths, shutter release cables, film,
    memory cards, tripod, bean bag, silica gel, watch, GPS,
    spare batteries, mobile phone, torch, knee support, first
    aid kit, hat, gloves & waterproofs.

    Is there much call for a bean-bag if you have a tripod with
    you anyway??? Surely that's overkill! :-) Although they're
    not exactly very large, shutter-releases aren't really
    necessary unless you're shooting wildlife, or something else
    that requires critical timing of the shutter release. Just
    stick the camera on self-timer for touch-free shooting.

    Anyway, my clothing/pack kit is much the same as already
    mentioned above. In addition (for photographic needs): 35mm
    SLR with wide-angle lens in the lowepro beltpack, zoom lens
    in one belt-pack pocket, film and filters in the other.
    Digital compact in pocket for snapshots. Spare camera
    batteries in trouser pocket (to keep them warm). Carbon-
    fibre tripod strapped to the rucksack. If I'm feeling
    particularly fit (or in specific need of very high-quality
    shots) I'll take the medium-format camera, but this isn't
    often, as it weighs more than I'm usually happy to take. As
    a bit of a music-lover I also take the MP3 player if walking
    alone, or if I'm camping out (to listen to as I go to
    sleep!). The MP3 player occassionally comes in handy for
    noting info or details, as it doubles as a voice-recorder.

    Regards,

    Michael S

  11. Michael S said:

    Is there much call for a bean-bag if you have a tripod with
    you anyway??? Surely that's overkill! :-)

    What happens when it is windy?

    Quoted message said:

    Although they're not exactly very large, shutter-releases
    aren't really necessary unless you're shooting wildlife, or
    something else that requires critical timing of the shutter
    release. Just stick the camera on self-timer for touch-free
    shooting.

    I always use a shutter release with the SLR on a tripod. The
    self timer has a nasty habit of failing to operate in cold
    weather - it's mechanical too, go figure! With my digicam I
    have to faff about with menus to change it from 10 to 2
    second delay, it is always on the other setting. Why can't I
    have a button that goes multi-frame, single frame, 10 second
    self, 2 second self?

    Quoted message said:


    Anyway, my clothing/pack kit is much the same as already
    mentioned above. In addition (for photographic needs): 35mm
    SLR with wide-angle lens in the lowepro beltpack, zoom lens
    in one belt-pack pocket, film and filters in the other.
    Digital compact in pocket for snapshots. Spare camera
    batteries in trouser pocket (to keep them warm). Carbon-
    fibre tripod strapped to the rucksack. If I'm feeling
    particularly fit (or in specific need of very high-quality
    shots) I'll take the medium-format camera, but this isn't
    often, as it weighs more than I'm usually happy to take. As
    a bit of a music-lover I also take the MP3 player if
    walking alone, or if I'm camping out (to listen to as I go
    to sleep!). The MP3 player occassionally comes in handy for
    noting info or details, as it doubles as a voice-recorder.

    My minidisc player always seems to get left behind in one of
    those "shall I shan't I" moments. It's a bit heavier than
    MP3 machine though.
    --
    Phil Cook looking north over the park to the
    "Westminster Gasworks"

  12. Michael S said:

    Is there much call for a bean-bag if you have a tripod
    with you anyway???

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Surely that's overkill! :-)

    No. The fact is that I prefer to carry a medium or
    lightweight tripod, which works fine with most shots, but
    not long telephotos. Since the 300D has no mirror lock-up,
    the mirror slap is enough to blur a telephoto shot taken at
    a slow/medium shutter speed, so if a fast shutter speed is
    not possible or if I'm not prepared to accept the grain
    induced by boosting the film speed, then the bean bag is the
    only option.

    If a convenient location can be found for the bean bag then
    it produces much better results than a light tripod, rock
    solid in fact. Long telephoto shots don't usually include
    the near foreground anyway so it doesn't matter if I have
    to lay on the ground or whatever. The light tripod works
    fine for wider angles and is necessary for critical
    composition of the foreground which usually isn't possible
    with the bean bag.

    Quoted message said:

    Although they're not exactly very large, shutter-releases
    aren't really necessary unless you're shooting wildlife,
    or something else that requires critical timing of the
    shutter release. Just stick the camera on self-timer for
    touch-free shooting.

    Three reasons;

    1. Time. The self timer wastes time. I didn't mind the 2
    second timer on my G3 but the 300D is fixed to 10
    seconds which is a pain. Not too bad for occasional
    use, but frustrating when taking a panorama or lots of
    tripod shots. With a 6 shot panorama it adds a full
    minute in addition to the time taken to rotate the
    camera for each shot. If there are clouds around it's
    important to grab all the shots as quickly as possible.
    There's nothing more annoying than taking a panorama in
    which the lighting changes just before the last shot.
    Even if the foreground lighting doesn't change, clouds
    can drift across the sky making it difficult to stitch
    the photos later.

    2. Critical timing. Timing can indeed be critical for
    landscapes when clouds are blowing across the sky.
    Often the sun will only burst through for a second or
    two, and a 10 second timer is useless in such a
    situation. Other time critical situations are when
    photographing waves breaking against rocks or tourist
    filled locations with people walking in and out of the
    scene (or birds flying across a scene). There are
    actually quite a lot of landscapes situations which
    involve movement of some kind.

    3. Bulb shooting. Although the 300D has a B setting, it's
    completely useless without a shutter release (actually
    it's called a remote switch). The B setting doesn't work
    with the self timer, you have to press and hold the
    shutter for the duration of the exposure, which is a
    pretty stupid thing to do. Annoyingly the remote switch
    is optional and cost me another £27. Vital for night
    shots though.

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, my clothing/pack kit is much the same as already
    mentioned above. In addition (for photographic needs):
    35mm SLR with wide-angle lens in the lowepro beltpack,
    zoom lens in one belt-pack pocket, film and filters in
    the other.

    I need a new belt set up. I may be retiring my film SLR any
    day now (subject to comparative tests that I'll be doing as
    soon as my latest batch of film comes back) so I'll only
    need the DSLR and the panoramic.

    Quoted message said:

    Digital compact in pocket for snapshots.

    That would be good too, to save filling my DSLR flash cards
    with large raw files.

    Quoted message said:

    Spare camera batteries in trouser pocket (to keep
    them warm).

    Ah, didn't think of that one.

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  13. Phil Cook said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is there much call for a bean-bag if you have a tripod
    with you anyway??? Surely that's overkill! :-)

    What happens when it is windy?

    Oh yes, forgot that one. I've taken pin sharp 300mm shots at
    1 second in a raging gale using a bean bag.

    Quoted message said:

    I always use a shutter release with the SLR on a tripod.

    Has Michael S opened a can of worms here? ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Why can't I have a button that goes multi-frame, single
    frame, 10 second self, 2 second self?

    Well at least you have a 2 second setting. What bugs me is
    that while many features on a digital camera are reset when
    you turn it off, the shooting mode on the 300D isn't, so if
    I set it to multi-shot or self-timer, it stays set to that
    when I turn it back on, which seems a bit daft. Surely
    single shot is the obvious default? I've been annoyed
    countless times when I've tried to take a single shot hand
    held and the damn thing starts beeping because it's still on
    the self timer!

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  14. Paul Saunders said:

    Michael S wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Digital compact in pocket for snapshots.

    That would be good too, to save filling my DSLR flash cards
    with large raw files.

    Press a gazillion buttons and shoot a 5 Mpix JPEG :-)

    Then the next irrepeatable shot you don't shoot in RAW 'cos
    you forgot to change back :-(

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Spare camera batteries in trouser pocket (to keep
    them warm).

    Better still, a pair of boxers with a johny pocket :-)

    Sometimes my camera sits in the pocket of my fleece inside
    thev shell in winter to try to keep it warm.
    --
    Phil Cook looking north over the park to the
    "Westminster Gasworks"

  15. Phil Cook said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Digital compact in pocket for snapshots.

    That would be good too, to save filling my DSLR flash
    cards with large raw files.

    Press a gazillion buttons and shoot a 5 Mpix JPEG :-)

    Not quite sure what you're referring to here, but the G3 was
    well laid out button wise, very few buttons to press. One
    nice feature was the ability to shoot jpegs, but still have
    the option to save as raw if you pressed the function button
    after taking the shot. However I soon started shooting
    everything in raw so it became unnecessary, and of course
    you had to remember to press the function button, so
    sometimes you might forget.

    Quoted message said:

    Then the next irrepeatable shot you don't shoot in RAW
    'cos you forgot to change back :-(

    Yeah, but I was thinking of a two camera situation - DSLR
    permanently set to raw, compact digital set to jpeg, so
    there'd be no risk of mixing up the file formats, I'd use
    the DSLR for all the serious shots and the compact for
    the snaps.

    Quoted message said:

    Sometimes my camera sits in the pocket of my fleece inside
    thev shell in winter to try to keep it warm.

    I've tried that and had condensation problems.

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  16. My full kit list is as follows:

    Map (usually 1:25,000) Spare map (usually 1:50,000) Compass
    Spare compass First aid kit Iodine tablets Whistle LED torch
    Head torch Survival bag Group shelter Rope (30m 7.8mm)
    Harness Camera Toilet paper Waterproof trousers Gortex
    Fleece Fleece sweater Spare sweater T Shirt Trousers Pants
    Walking socks Under socks Boots Gaiters Crampons Ice axe
    Trekking poles Gloves Spare gloves Waterproof mits Balaclava
    Fleece cap with fold down flaps Water Lunch Flask Snackettes
    Pencil Waterproof paper

    I can't think of any time when I've carried my full kit
    list. The closest was probably on the Aonach Eagach this
    year with two less experienced friends. I was wearing my
    Paramo Salopettes and Smock, so I wasn't wearing trousers
    and didn't take my fleece or waterproof trousers.

  17. Paul Saunders said:
    Phil Cook said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Digital compact in pocket for snapshots.

    That would be good too, to save filling my DSLR flash
    cards with large raw files.

    Press a gazillion buttons and shoot a 5 Mpix JPEG :-)

    Not quite sure what you're referring to here, but the G3
    was well laid out button wise, very few buttons to press.
    One nice feature was the ability to shoot jpegs, but still
    have the option to save as raw if you pressed the function
    button after taking the shot. However I soon started
    shooting everything in raw so it became unnecessary, and of
    course you had to remember to press the function button, so
    sometimes you might forget.

    I was trying to say that you could switch settings on your
    camera to save a smaller file than you normally do. I have
    now remembered that I keep the AUTO setting at a lower
    quality setting than the PROGRAM setting on my Canon A40.
    Each of the shooting modes has individual settings for white
    balance, ISO, picture size and quality. So all I would need
    to do is choose which mode to shoot in and that is just a
    matter of turning one dial.
    --
    Phil Cook looking north over the park to the
    "Westminster Gasworks"

  18. Phil Cook said:

    I was trying to say that you could switch settings on your
    camera to save a smaller file than you normally do.

    Yeah. That's sort of what I was saying too. You can set
    the G3 to save at a smaller size/lower quality, but you
    always have the option to save any shot as raw with the
    press of a button.

    Quoted message said:

    I have now remembered that I keep the AUTO setting at a
    lower quality setting than the PROGRAM setting on my Canon
    A40. Each of the shooting modes has individual settings
    for white balance, ISO, picture size and quality.

    Ah yes, I'd forgotten that.

    Quoted message said:

    So all I would need to do is choose which mode to shoot in
    and that is just a matter of turning one dial.

    Yes, and the custom modes of the G series cameras would
    facilitate that easily. I tended to have both custom modes
    set to manual shooting, one set to a fast shutter speed
    default for hand held shooting and the other set to a slow
    shutter speed default for low light tripod shooting, it
    saved a lot of time changing the shutter speeds. At the
    beginning of each walk I'd work out a base exposure for the
    current conditions and save it, to facilitate more
    efficient shooting later on, changing the default as the
    lighting changed.

    Of course as you say, you could set one custom setting to
    raw mode, the other to jpeg.

    Naturally the 300D has no custom modes, since the software
    has been artificially crippled, but it does at least retain
    the last exposure setting used. I guess it's better to have
    the same quality sensor as the 10D and have to put up with
    crippled software rather than to have the same software with
    an inferior quality sensor. So I shouldn't really complain,
    but I will anyway. There are a few nagging little details
    that they really should have included which wouldn't have
    compromised sales of the 10D, like a 2 second option on the
    self timer for example. It's so frustrating to have a DSLR
    with less options than a compact!

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

  19. Hi all,

    Regarding the beanbag and the mirror lock-up etc. In almost
    15 years of photography I've never had a problem with
    vibrations from mirror-slap - on any one of about 20
    different camera bodies (both 35mm and medium format).
    Obviously this is only really a problem with longer lenses,
    which I only ever really use for wildlife photography
    (although I will use them occasionally for certain landscape
    shots). And, with wildlife photography, shutter speeds
    usually always need to be fast - certainly fast enough to
    avoid mirror-slap vibrations. With a short, wide-angle lens
    attached to the body the problem of mirror-slap vibrations
    just doesn't exist in my experience. I'd choose to use a
    tripod in virtually all situations - I can't remember the
    last time my bean bag even left home. A long time ago I used
    to drape the beanbag over the lens (mounted on a tripod) to
    prevent potential vibrations from mirror-slap, but I soon
    learned that this just wasn't necessary. If you have a
    'light' tripod try hanging your pack from the center column
    - this extra weight stabilises a tripod dramatically
    (although is obviously dependent on the weight of the
    pack!). In the long run a sturdier tripod would be
    preferable though! Personally, I would only ever use a bean
    bag if I didn't have a tripod, full-stop.

    As for the self-timer vs the cable-release... there are
    obviously situations where there is no alternative to the
    cable-release - such as the particular situations you
    mention - waves, and night sky (and lightning) shots on the
    bulb setting (plus others). But then I'm rarely taking night-
    sky/lightning shots! I should have been clearer, but I was
    referring to the *usual* kind of landscape shot where the
    image in the viewfinder hasn't moved for several thousand
    years (except for any vegetation!).

    I have found with landscape photography that timing is
    critical - but in a long-term sense, not the short term. I
    have photos that took around 45 minutes to compose, followed
    by a further 3 and a half hours of waiting for the 'right'
    light. Landscape photography is definitely a marathon, not a
    sprint. I've yet to see a sky change *significantly* in 10
    seconds... While you may get the appearance of crepuscular
    rays or a rainbow (etc.) for a couple of seconds only,
    you've got to be pretty darned unlucky to have that appear
    perfectly within the frame of a carefully pre-composed shot
    and miss out on it. Anyway, I'm beginning to ramble... The
    point of mentioning the self-timer was that excellent
    landscape shots *can* be achieved without the need for a cable-
    release. In fact, I'd say that most of my shots which have
    been used in calendars, magazines and on book covers were
    taken using the self-timer (and on a tripod!) - simply
    because I rarely use the cable-release.

    Anyway, it's not like it adds much weight to total pack
    weight... just thought I'd mention the self-timer option for
    those situations when it is suitable!

    At the end of the day, we have to take what we personally
    feel the need for. Like I said earlier, I often lug my
    medium format cameras up hills, and I wouldn't recommend
    that for one second!!! Similarly, if you like to use a
    bean bag then you'll carry on taking it with you, and so
    you should!

    Different strokes for different folks! Happy shooting
    everybody!

    Regards,

    Michael S

  20. Michael S said:

    Regarding the beanbag and the mirror lock-up etc. In
    almost 15 years of photography I've never had a problem
    with vibrations from mirror-slap - on any one of about 20
    different camera bodies (both 35mm and medium format).

    I have, typically with long lenses and light tripods.

    Quoted message said:

    Obviously this is only really a problem with longer
    lenses, which I only ever really use for wildlife
    photography (although I will use them occasionally for
    certain landscape shots).

    I personally think that there is fantastic potential in
    using very long lenses for landscapes, a potential that is
    rarely explored and which I myself have only scratched the
    surface of. So much of landscape photography is obviously
    suited to wide angle lenses that it takes a lot more
    discipline to look deeper into the landscape to see the less
    obvious possiblities of telephoto compositions. And I'm not
    just talking about photographing distant summits, that's the
    most obvious use of a telephoto lens and one which is often
    scuppered by haze. Many of the best telephoto opportunities
    can be found much closer to the photographer, but it's much
    harder to recognise them IMO.

    In particular I think that the juxtaposition of a foreground
    object (actually middle ground) with a background object has
    great possibilities, but whereas such juxtapositioning with
    a wide angle lens may require moving only a few feet, or
    even inches with an ultra-wide angle, with a long telephoto
    you are often required to move much greater distances, which
    can even be measured in miles.

    "Now let me see, if I just move half a mile to my left..."

    Quite a different mindset is required to see telephoto
    opportunites IMO. It's a very neglected area of landscape
    photography and one which I'm keen to explore. Of course one
    of the main reasons why it's neglected is because landscape
    photographers are not generally in the habit of carrying big
    heavy telephoto lenses around with them.

    Quoted message said:

    And, with wildlife photography, shutter speeds usually
    always need to be fast - certainly fast enough to avoid
    mirror-slap vibrations.

    Very true.

    Quoted message said:

    With a short, wide-angle lens attached to the body the
    problem of mirror-slap vibrations just doesn't exist in my
    experience.

    Nor mine.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd choose to use a tripod in virtually all situations

    I probably would too if I didn't take so many shots. The
    fact is though that I'm a walker as well as a photographer,
    necessarily so, I have to walk to get to the viewpoints, and
    I tend to take so many shots enroute that using a tripod
    every time would be impractical. Those who have walked with
    me will testify to how much time my photography consumes,
    and that's just taking shots hand held.

    There does seem to be a breed of landscape photographers
    that will religiously use a tripod for every photograph
    irrespective of whether it's actually necessary or not. A
    friend of mine recently did exactly that when shooting snow
    covered mountains in bright sunlight, while I preferred the
    quicker hand held option. In such bright conditions there
    are no problems getting fast enough shutter speeds with
    decent apertures, even with a long telephoto lens, so the
    only conceivable advantage of using a tripod in such a
    situation is for fine control over composition. Whilst I
    appreciate that advantage I also appreciate the advantage
    of travelling quickly, so I've developed the discipline to
    compose photographs very carefully even when shooting hand
    held. There is a myth that using a tripod results in better
    compositions, and I understand why, but it is possible to
    do the same hand held, it just requires a lot of
    concentration and care.

    Quoted message said:

    - I can't remember the last time my bean bag even
    left home.

    Last time I left mine at home was just a few walks ago, and
    I regretted it!

    Quoted message said:

    A long time ago I used to drape the beanbag over the lens
    (mounted on a tripod) to prevent potential vibrations from
    mirror-slap,

    Hey that's a good idea! Thanks for that, I'll most
    definitely try that out.

    Quoted message said:

    but I soon learned that this just wasn't necessary.

    It is for me I can assure you. Sounds like your tripods
    aren't as light as mine. By way of justification I'd just
    like to point out that the "legend" Galen Rowell also used
    to have the philosophy of travelling light and fast and thus
    used a flimsy lightweight tripod to the horror and disgust
    of other landscape photographers, so you can see where I get
    my ideas from! :-)

    Quoted message said:

    If you have a 'light' tripod try hanging your pack from
    the center column - this extra weight stabilises a tripod
    dramatically (although is obviously dependent on the
    weight of the pack!).

    I've heard that advice and tried it, but it doesn't solve
    the problem. The problem is that the weak point is the
    tripod head, where the camera connects to the tripod. You
    only have to press the end of the telephoto lens to see that
    there is some play in the connection. Even though I screw my
    cameras tightly to the tripod mount, there is play in the
    mount, not the legs. I can actually see the image vibrate
    through the viewfinder when using a telephoto lens, but it's
    not the legs that are moving. In this case mounting the lens
    to the tripod rather than the camera would be a better
    solution, but I don't have that option.

    Quoted message said:

    In the long run a sturdier tripod would be
    preferable though!

    Well since you mentioned long runs, I recall that
    Galen Rowell literally did a long run of 10 miles to
    reach a wilderness viewpoint in time for sunrise,
    travelling ultralight. He didn't carry a heavy tripod
    on his long run! :-)

    I agree though that a heavy tripod would be best in all
    situations of easy accessablity, for example coastal
    photography, which rarely involves a long or difficult walk
    from the car. Mountain top photography however, is a
    different matter, to which a bean bag is much better suited,
    especially from a convenient cairn or trig point.

    Quoted message said:

    Personally, I would only ever use a bean bag if I didn't
    have a tripod, full-stop.

    Which is sort of what I just said. For a decent mountain
    walk I really wouldn't want to carry a heavy tripod with me.
    Been there, done that, as they say. I will take my ultra
    light tripod on such a walk though (about a pound I think),
    but it won't do for the long telephoto stuff. I took no
    proper tripod at all on my recent stroll up Mynydd Drumau,
    yet I desperately needed one when I reached the top.
    Fortunately my pocket sized bendy legged tripod came to the
    rescue, and it was that which I used to take my "Neath at
    Night" shots, balancing it on tussocks of grass and a
    convenient wall. I didn't have my bean bag at the time, it
    would probably have been better.

    Quoted message said:

    As for the self-timer vs the cable-release... there are
    obviously situations where there is no alternative to the
    cable-release - such as the particular situations you
    mention - waves, and night sky (and lightning) shots on
    the bulb setting (plus others).

    Fair enough.

    Quoted message said:

    But then I'm rarely taking night-sky/lightning shots!

    Not that common for most people, but I've been doing more
    and more night/low light photography over the last year and
    I want to do lots more of it. It's a fascinating area to
    explore, another one that's generally neglected by most
    photographers, probably because of the hassle of wandering
    around wild places in the dark. I feel quite comfortable
    with this though, so it's something that I'd really like to
    specialise in.

    Quoted message said:

    I should have been clearer, but I was referring to the
    *usual* kind of landscape shot where the image in the
    viewfinder hasn't moved for several thousand years (except
    for any vegetation!).

    Of course.

    Quoted message said:

    I have found with landscape photography that timing is
    critical - but in a long-term sense, not the short term.

    Well you presumably don't do much photography on very windy
    days then. Fast moving clouds racing across the sky create
    ever changing patterns that are never the same from one
    moment to the next, not only the patterns in the sky but the
    shadows on the ground. I rate such conditions as one of the
    best to take landscape photos in, and timing is usually very
    critical in such situations. It may not be very pleasant for
    the photographer to be blasted by a cold wind, but such
    situations often result in the most dramatic photographs.

    Quoted message said:

    I have photos that took around 45 minutes to compose,
    followed by a further 3 and a half hours of waiting for
    the 'right' light.

    Well that's certainly one approach, and a very valid one,
    and I offer the respect that's due to you for having such
    patience. But it's not the only approach. I often tend to
    favour the "action landscape" approach, which involves
    travelling light and moving fast. It may not be the
    traditional approach, it may receive scorn from some, but it
    can and does produce results. Galen proved that over and
    over again. I follow some of his footsteps. At the end of
    the day, the bottom line is the photographs we produce, they
    speak for themselves. If they are up to scratch, then who
    really cares what techniques were used? All techniques are
    valid if they produce the required results. Different
    techniques are like different personalities, we each have a
    different way of doing things.

    Having said that, I guess I do often wait a long time for
    the right light. Although I like to keep moving when on a
    walk, I also love to camp wild in scenic situations. I've
    often camped for days in the same spot, waiting for the
    right light. I like to pitch the tent in such a position
    that I can get good shots straight from the tent itself. I
    once camped for two days on a ridge overlooking Tryfan,
    taking shots intermittently from the tent as good light
    presented itself.

    This was one shot from the tent. The strange wisps of cloud
    in the top left probably lasted for no more than 20 seconds
    or so, I don't know what caused them. wilderness-wilderness-
    wales.co.uk/pg/gl/gfw75.jpg

    Here's another shot taken from the same location at night.
    This was taken on my flimsy lightweight tripod in a worrying
    breeze. To my great relief the breeze didn't ruin the shot.
    wilderness-wales.co.ukts75.jpg

    Then another shot from the same spot the next morning; wilderness-wilderness-
    wales.co.uk/pg/gl/tef75.jpg

    While I'm on the subject, my last roll of film was lost by
    the developers. 4.5 years later I still feel angry whenever
    I think about
    it. The four free rolls of Velvia I got out of them was no
    compensation. :-(

    Quoted message said:

    Landscape photography is definitely a marathon, not
    a sprint.

    Depends how you choose to run the race. There's more than
    one way to run it. Hares and tortoises are all potential
    winners. I have great respect for the patient approach, but
    I'm usually too impatient, except when wild camping! :-)

    Quoted message said:

    I've yet to see a sky change *significantly* in 10
    seconds...

    It's more a question of the light on the ground changing
    (particularly the foreground) than what's happening in the
    sky, although I've got panoramas taken in gale force winds
    in which the clouds changed significanlty from one shot to
    the next, enough to make it impossible to get a perfect
    stitch (although you can fudge it with the clone tool).

    Quoted message said:

    While you may get the appearance of crepuscular rays or a
    rainbow (etc.) for a couple of seconds only, you've got to
    be pretty darned unlucky to have that appear perfectly
    within the frame of a carefully pre-composed shot and miss
    out on it. Anyway, I'm beginning to ramble... The point of
    mentioning the self-timer was that excellent landscape
    shots *can* be achieved without the need for a cable-
    release.

    Indeed, and I still do that if it isn't critical. At the end
    of the day, attaching the remote switch is just more hassle
    which consumes time, so for the odd shot or two it isn't
    really necessary.

    Before I forget I should point out that I'm becoming a big
    fan of infrared photography, which often involves
    exposures of 30 seconds even in bright sunlight. The
    remote switch can be handy for that too, especially if I
    need to switch to bulb.

    Quoted message said:

    In fact, I'd say that most of my shots which have been
    used in calendars, magazines and on book covers were taken
    using the self-timer (and on a tripod!) - simply because I
    rarely use the cable-release.

    Anyway, it's not like it adds much weight to total pack
    weight... just thought I'd mention the self-timer option
    for those situations when it is suitable!

    Which it often is. But the real question is, do you get
    [censored] waiting 10 seconds for a web page to load? I do.
    Maybe that's why I have no patience with the self timer.
    Modern technology has taught me to expect things to happen
    instantly! :-)

    Quoted message said:

    At the end of the day, we have to take what we personally
    feel the need for. Like I said earlier, I often lug my
    medium format cameras up hills, and I wouldn't recommend
    that for one second!!!

    Why not? Whilst on the one hand I'm looking forward to
    retiring my film SLR, on the other I have a couple of rolls
    of 120 film just waiting to be used shooting waterfalls with
    my Mamiya Press. There's a certain perverse pleasure to be
    had in doing it the old fashioned way even though you have
    all the new technology, isn't there? Rather like navigating
    with a compass instead of a GPS for a change!

    Oops! Sorry! On-topic alert! ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Similarly, if you like to use a bean bag then you'll carry
    on taking it with you, and so you should!

    It's not a case of whether I like it or not, it's a case of
    necessity. If I could shoot everything hand held I probably
    would. Less hassle. But I can't, so I do what I must. There
    is a certain satisfying solidity that a bean bag gives me
    that a flimsy tripod doesn't. I really must buy myself one
    of those half ton tripods, but I won't be carrying it up any
    mountains.

    Quoted message said:

    Different strokes for different folks! Happy shooting
    everybody!

    You too. Thanks for the comments.

    Paul
    --
    wilderness-wales.co.ukwilderness-wales.co.uk
    wildwales.fsnet.co.ukwildwales.fsnet.co.uk
    photosig.comuserphotos

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