Headset heresy

Don't listen to the Park Tool mafia. They'd have you buy a shiny new tool for every repair job. I've
used a claw hammer and a piece of lumber for headset installation. Works like a charm. For head set
removal I use a long wide metal punch. Just tap them out from the inside. The bearing race that goes
on the fork is a little tricky. I use some pipe and the obligatory mallet and wood. Never scratched
or ruined a part! The only tools I buy are indispensable ones, ie: Cable cutters, crankset wrenches,
Shimano cassette thingy...

D.Putnam said:

The bearing race that goes on the fork is a little tricky. I use some
pipe and the obligatory mallet and wood.

I think I have a better solution for this. Stick the fork in between the jaws of your vise, no
clamping! Close the jaws so that the race sits on them but the fork itself is free. Hit the
fork from above with a mallet, or with a good hammer by interposing a wooden block not to ruin
the threads.

Sergio Pisa

David-<< I am building up a 95 Schwinn Homegrown as a beater bike for use around town. Is there any
reason why I can't install the headset bearing cups by carefully banging them into place with a
piece of wood and rubber mallet?

<< I know conventional wisdom says use a headset press, but why? >><BR><BR>

So ya don't break a headset(aluminum) cup...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"D.Putnam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Don't listen to the Park Tool mafia. They'd have you buy a shiny new tool for every repair job.
I've used a claw hammer and a piece of lumber for headset installation. Works like a charm. For
head set removal I use a long wide metal punch. Just tap them out from the inside. The bearing
race that goes on the fork is a little tricky. I use some pipe and the obligatory mallet and wood.
Never scratched or ruined a part! The only tools I buy are indispensable ones, ie: Cable cutters,
crankset wrenches, Shimano cassette thingy...

me use big rocks!

Quoted message said:

So ya don't break a headset(aluminum) cup...

Or a frame!

Jeez, it's no wonder I've seen so many f'd up headsets come through the shops over the years! Use
the right tool for the job, it's just better that way! --Jim

[email hidden] (Meccanico di Bici) wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Jeez, it's no wonder I've seen so many f'd up headsets come through the shops over the years! Use
the right tool for the job, it's just better that way! --Jim

I hate to say it, but if i used the 'right tool for the job' every time i had a job, id either be
working a lot more shifts, enjoying bike work a lot less, or being my LBS's New Favorite Customer at
the expense of my wallet.

one day i will break something precious, and it will be worth it for all the countless jobs ive
pulled off with excellent results without the Park-Shimano-Campagnolo bearing milling pin spanner
press wrench. (chrome plated, CNC milled, generous padding)

Now can you pass me my headset press? Yes, thats the one. You can tell I didn't skimp, either. My
wooden block is mahogany, not 2x4.

ant said:

Now can you pass me my headset press? Yes, thats the one. You can tell I didn't skimp, either. My
wooden block is mahogany, not 2x4.

Isn't that too soft a wood?

Sergio Pisa

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Quoted message said:

ant said:

Now can you pass me my headset press? Yes, thats the one. You can tell I didn't skimp, either.
My wooden block is mahogany, not 2x4.

Isn't that too soft a wood?

Sergio Pisa

It's softer than, say, maple. Works fine though. I happened to have some scrap lying around after a
project, and didnt happen to have either maple or tool steel in the shape of a Park tool. the block
i used for my last headset press job will definitely last for a couple more rounds.

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

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Sergio SERVADIO <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

ant said:

Now can you pass me my headset press? Yes, thats the one. You can tell I didn't skimp, either.
My wooden block is mahogany, not 2x4.

Isn't that too soft a wood?

Sergio Pisa

It's softer than, say, maple. Works fine though. I happened to have some scrap lying around after
a project, and didnt happen to have either maple or tool steel in the shape of a Park tool. the
block i used for my last headset press job will definitely last for a couple more rounds.

Douglas Fir is perfect.

Rick

"Java Man" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Sergio SERVADIO <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

On 6 Mar 2003, ant wrote:
> Now can you pass me my headset press? Yes, thats the one. You can

tell

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I didn't skimp, either. My wooden block is mahogany, not 2x4.

Isn't that too soft a wood?

Sergio Pisa

It's softer than, say, maple. Works fine though. I happened to have some scrap lying around
after a project, and didnt happen to have either maple or tool steel in the shape of a Park
tool. the block i used for my last headset press job will definitely last for a couple more
rounds.

Douglas Fir is perfect.

Rick

If you were a REAL wood worker, you'd turn down a piece of whatever your favorite wood is to the
shape of the inside of the HS cups, just like the Park tool... THEN use the bolt and washer method.
But I'd be willing to bet that not too many of us would go to that length...

I'm not into wood. If it isn't mechanical, forget it!

Mike