aus.bicycle FAQ (Monthly(ish) Posting)

aus.bicycle FAQ Last updated 23-FEB-2004

Welcome to the aus.bicycle FAQ

This is a compendium of Frequently Asked Questions from the newsgroup aus.bicycle,
some of them even have answers. The lastest version is always available from:

Text maddogsbreakfast.com.auaus.bicycle.FAQ.txtOpen ↗ HTML
maddogsbreakfast.com.auaus.bicycle.FAQ.htmlOpen ↗

This document is Copyright (c) 2004 Kingsley Turner. Permission is granted to
distribute this document on the criteria that it is remains unmodified, and it is not
sold for profit.

1 - Bicycling Resources & Propaganda
1.1 What other bicycle newsgroups are there?
2.2 What are some good cycling websites?
3.3 What are some good mailing lists?
4.4 What are some good cycling (paper) publications?

2 - Riding

5.1 Miscellany
5.1.1 What do I do about this f@#$%^ing Magpie?
5.2.2 Why do you shave your legs?

6.2 Kids
6.1.1 What are the options for carrying (non-riding) children by bike?
6.2.2 Which is better: child seat or trailer?

7.3 Touring

8.4 Organised Rides

8.1.1 Miscellany
8.1.1.1 What are the major events on the Australian
Cycling Calendar?
8.1.2.2 What is Critical Mass?

8.2.2 Clubs & BUGs

8.3.3 Polaris

8.4.4 Road Racing
8.4.1.1 The TdF: What do the coloured jerseys mean?

8.5.5 Couriers

9.5 Laws, Accidents & Road Rage
9.1.1 I've been involved in an accident, what do I do?
9.2.2 I've been a victim of road rage, what do I do?

10.6 Training, Fitness & Weight
10.1.1 Reducing Body Fat
10.2.2 How do I calculate my BMR (Basil Metabolic Rate)?

3 - Gear

11.1 Miscellany
11.1.1 What does bike insurance cover?

12.2 Shopping
12.1.1 What online bike stores are there?
12.2.2 Can I save money by importing gear myself?
12.3.3 Where can I buy a 2nd-hand bike?

13.3 Custom Built
13.1.1 Does anyone know a good frame builder?
13.2.2 Does anyone know a good wheel builder?

14.4 Parts & Maintenance

14.1.1 Miscellany
14.1.1.1 When should I use the yellow lenses with my glasses?

14.2.2 Lights
14.2.1.1 Where can I get a cheap Vistalite Nightstick battery?
14.2.2.2 Can someone recommend a smart charger?

14.3.3 Brakes
14.3.1.1 My brakes are squealing!

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1 Bicycling Resources & Propaganda:

15.1 What other bicycle newsgroups are there?
* aus.bicycle
* uk.rec.cycling - Much like aus.bicycle
* rec.bicycles.marketplace - Bike stuff for sale
* rec.bicycles.misc - General bike discussion
* rec.bicycles.off-road
* rec.bicycles.racing
* rec.bicycles.rides - About touring, but sometimes not
* rec.bicycles.soc - The social ascpects of cycling
* rec.bicycles.tech - Technical Q&A
* alt.collecting.bicycles
* alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent
* alt.mountain-bike

1.2 What are some good cycling websites?
* Cycling News: www.cyclingnews.com - Packed with news & reports.
* Audax Australia: www.audax.org.au
* Bicycle Fish: users.chariot.net.au/~gloria - Australian Bicycle Touring.
* Aussie Cycling: www.aussiecycling.com.au/cycling - Books, links & for sale.
* Tandem Club of Australia: home.vicnet.net.au/~tandem/
* Biking Asia with Mr Pumpy: www.mrpumpy.net - Bicycle touring South-east Asia.
* Bicycle Victoria: www.bv.com.au
* Bicycle NSW: www.bicyclensw.org.au
* Pedal Power ACT: www.pedalpower.org.au
* Bicycle SA: www.bikesa.asn.au
* Bicycle Tasmania: www.biketas.org.au
* OzHPV: sunsite.anu.edu.au/community/ozhpv/ (non-aussie pages)
* MTB Review: www.mtbreview.com - User reviews of bike gear.
* Ken Kifer's Bike Pages: www.kenkifer.com/bikepages
* Sheldon Brown's: www.sheldonbrown.com - Bike gear and repairs

1.3 What are some good cycling mail lists?
* Phreds Bicycle Touring: www.phred.org/mailman/listinfo/touring - Bicycle Touring,
and sometimes unrelated topics (can be very high volume).
* Hobbes Tandem List: www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html - Tandem Everything
(moderate volume).

1.4 What are some good cycling (paper) publications?

Magazine What's it about Australian Cyclist Bit of a mix: bike politics, touring, lists of
clubs and diary of club rides, occasional gear review. Not usually any road racing news. Six
issues a year, available at most newsagents and bike shops. RIDE Cycling Review Completely
covers the bicycle racing scene, including both road and track. Has great gear reviews,
although it does tend towards the top-end stuff. Six issues a year, available some
newsagents, and bike shops Cycling Australia Covers racing, road & track. Always has reviews
of high-end bikes, the occasional maintenance tip, and a bit of cycling gossip. Published
five times a year Mountain Biking Australia As above, but for mountain bikes. Australian
Mountain Bike Covers the mountain bike racing scene in detail, usually has interviews with
Aussie riders, gear review, maintenance and (technical) riding tips. Six issues a year.
Velovision (UK) This is an exceedingly interesting magazine, it focus is mainly bicycles as
transport (or maybe 'bikes as a part of life'😉, with a heavy bent towards recumbent and
other non-mainstream cycling. It does have a British and European focus, but contains
articles sourced from all over the world.

Available (at least) at Cheeky Monkey in Sydney.

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2.2 Riding: Kids

2.1.1 What are the options for carrying (non-riding) children by bike?

This mostly depends on your childs age and capability:

Child Seats: There are two types of child carriers, the ubiquitous rear-rack mounted
seats, and the seats that mount on the handlebars so that the child sits between the arms
of the rider.

Trailer Bikes: A trailer bike is basically the back-half of a diamond-frame bike. There
is no front wheel, but a tow arm that commonly connects to the seatpost or under the
seat. These require some bike riding skills and balance, but not steering.

Trailers: These are usually tethered to the bike by a socket-jointed tow-arm to the left
chainstay. They can hold one or two children, who are held in with a seatbelt, but are
still requried to wear a helmet. It's common for trailers to come with instructions that
specify the minimum child age of 1 year.

2.2.2 Which is better: child seat or trailer?

Kingsley Turner wrote in aus.bicycle:

Both of these have pros and cons:

Both:
* Child needs decent head control, approx 1 year old although I read about someone who
strapped their car capsule into a trailer.
* Adds at least a little weight to the bike, effecting handling.

Seats:
* Cheap - sub $100 for rear model, around $200 for a front.
* Back & front (Bobike mini) available
* Child is exposed to the elements
* Child goes over with the bike in a crash (seen this happen twice)
* You can talk quite easily with your child
* Must be cautious that legs are properly strapped in (and not near spokes/wheels)
* Loose usage/access to rear rack

Trailer:
* Expensive ($500-$1000)
* Can hold 2 kids (Trek models up to 45kg)
* Bike can stack, but trailer stays put
* Slim chance of rolling it if you clip a gutter in exactly the wrong way at speed
* Difficult to talk to your kids, near impossible with the plastic weather-shield down
* Child is not exposed to the weather (don't forget hot sunny days too) and is toasty
warm in winter/rain.
* Weighs about 10-12kg depending on the model
* Has plenty of 'boot' space for nappy bags, drinks, food, spare change of clothes,
big doll, and the other doll.
* Food & drink tends to get trampled into the floor (but you can just about
hose it out)
* High wind-resistance
* Makes your bike into a wide load, watch the bollards on bike paths!
* Weight of children is not directly on the bike
* Can convert some trailers into a stroller (very important for touring)

As you can probably guess most of my experience is with trailer. We towed both the brats
1200km touring last year (and many km since) When they weren't being towed, they were
being parambulated with the stroller conversion kit engaged.

For quick trips, the seat is probably better/quicker but for longer ones the
trailer is great.

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2.3.1 Riding: Miscellany

2.4.1 What do I do about this f@#$%^ing Magpie?

(i) Ride fast, duck oppertunely!

2.5.2 Why do you shave your legs?

(i) It makes applying first-aid/bandages simpler.

(ii) It looks and feels good.

(iii) Andrew Morris wrote in aus.bicycle:

Have you ever had gravel nail brushed out of hairy legs???

(iv) Paul J wrote in aus.bicycle:

... Reasons include; it feels damn nice, it look's good (so I'm told) and after a 120km
ride the much needed massage afterward is so much better and easier.

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2.6.1 Riding: Organised Rides: Miscellany

2.6.1.1 What are the major events on the Australian Cycling Calendar?

What When Where Audax Alpine Classic Australia Day See www.audax.org.au weekend Around
the Bay in a Day ? Melbourne Tour Down Under January Usually around Adelaide and Adelaide
Hills Sydney to the 'Gong First Sunday in Two start locations, one in Sydney, the other
closer November to Woolongong. See www.msnsw.org.au/oe for further information. Cycle
Sydney Late November A mass-ride through the heart of Sydney See www.bicyclensw.org.au
for further information. RTA Big Ride: 8 days of Varies, but once per Changes each year,
always around New South Wales. supported bicycle-touring. year

2.6.2.2 What is Critical Mass?

"Critical Mass is a monthly bicycle ride to celebrate cycling and to assert cyclists'
right to the road."

Probably the most spectacular thing about this assertion is that it happens during peak-
hour traffic.

For more information visit: www.criticalmass.org.au or criticalmassrides.info

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2.7.4 Riding: Organised Rides: Road Racing

2.7.1.1 The TdF: What do the coloured jerseys mean? Yellow - The daily overall leader by general
classification (time minus bonuses). Green - The sprint leader, by points awarded at
specific locations throughout the stages. Polka-dot - The 'King of the Mountains', by
points are awarded for each climb. White - awarded to the fastest rider aged under 25.

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3.5 Riding: Laws, Accidents & Road Rage

3.1.1 I've been a involved in an accident, what do I do?

You must call the police if anyone is injured. Whether or not you must call them for
other circumstances varies from state to state. You may be legally required to give
identification details to the other parties involved. You may also have to report the
accident within 24 hours.

Get name, address, and licence (if a car) details from the other party, you may also want
to collect details from a witness.

3.2.2 I've been a victim of road rage what do I do?

(i) Report it to the police, try to include details like the rego number

(ii) Claire Petersky wrote in rec.bicycles.misc:

Quoted message said:

One car-full of passing geniuses suggested that I get off the

copulating road.

Quoted message said:

Only they didn't say copulating. I was a bit surprised that the

road could

Quoted message said:

do that -- that asphalt certainly doesn't look like it

reproduced that way.

No, no, you misunderstood their intentions. The road does not copulate with itself.
Rather, it is *you* who is partnered with the road.

Have you not had a day, where you get out there on your bike, and there is the road
before you, warm, inviting? It feels good, it smells good, it almost seems to taste good
to be on it. Some days you start out eager, knowing what lies ahead. Other days you start
out a little reluctantly -- surely you have better things to do -- clean the house, mow
the lawn -- but here you are anyway, your bike and the road together, and after a little
bit you know its going to be a good time.

There are days when you dominate the road. It does your bidding. You groove on your
control. There are other days when the road is your master. You submit to its demands.
You get a perverted pleasure from the pain of your burning legs, your oxygen-starved
lungs screaming for air.

In any of these instances, though, you with your bike, and the road, are lovers. The
term, "get off" as we all know, is a slang term that means to "derive pleasure". Thus,

be understood as "Enjoy yourself as you and the road make beautiful love together".

To take this a step further -- in many mystical traditions, the physical act of love is
understood as a metaphor for the spiritual union of human with the Divine. Can you ride
as if you and the Road are One?

The mudra of the single upraised digit is a reminder of this oneness: unity in Christ
Consciousness, being at one with the Tao, La illaha Il' Allah, Adonai Echad. Thus, when
someone makes this gesture at you, you should understand that they are wishing you the
experience of this ecstatic union.

The horn that is honked as the mudra is made is a meditation bell. Like a church bell,
like the call of the muezzin's voice, it calls you into this sacred space of union, of
you, your bike, and the road, as One.

Thus, when the motorist honks his horn, raises the single digit, and makes his sincere
invocation, you have but one response: to smile, to wave, and return to the joy of riding
your bike.

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2.6 Riding: Training, Fitness & Weight

2.1.1 Reducing Body Fat

(i) DMR wrote in aus.bicycles:

There's no way you can advise anyone on their recommended daily fat consumption without
knowing enough about their physiology, lifestyle and goals to properly calculate their
actual calorific consumption, their BMR and then set their targets accordingly.

I am currently reducing my body fat% and I'm eating accordingly - yet my recommended
daily fat intake is (just checking the spreadsheet) 49.5grams. And I've lost about three
kilos so far. The problem with the low fat message is that it's [censored] and any honest
nutritionist will tell you the food pyramid we've grown up with is just accurate enough
to be dangerous (there's a new one due out soon). For the past twenty to thirty years
we've been steadily reducing our fat intake and yet as a society we've been getting
steadily fatter. Think about it.

I don't advocate a full Atkins diet (too many saturated fats for starters) but he was
right about one thing: if you want to lose body fat you need to reduce your
*carbohydrate* consumption. Cutting your fats intake - and you need the good fats, the
poly- and monounsaturated ones, plus Omega-3 etc. - without cutting your *sugar* intake
(which, at the end of the day, is all carbohydrates are) is a recipe for... (wait for
it)... GETTING FAT!

Broadly speaking the macronutritional breakdown for someone exercising regularly should
be (in this order of importance):

Protein: .8g/lb Lean Body Mass (that's your weight minus your fat).

Fats: About 33% of your target calories, of which saturated fats should be
33% or less.

Carbohydrates: Whatever is left.

The thing is this. Your body is incredibly good at keeping itself alive and it will use
whatever it has to. Having said that, it prefers certain energy sources to others, and
since losing or gaining weight is ultimately all about manipulating energy levels you can
use that fact to your advantage. Roughly speaking your body will use carbohydrates, then
fats and lastly proteins as sources of energy. So, when you cut back on the carbohydrates
it will go for the fat stores next - which is what you want. However, don't cut your
calorie intake too far below maintenance or your body will kick into starvation mode, and
it will do everything it can to avoid using its fat stores, so it will start targetting
your muscles. Breaking down proteins to use as energy is inefficient but in starvation
mode it will do that rather than use your fat stores.

So, having calculated your BMR and your actual daily calorific consumption, if you want
to lose weight healthily set a target daily calorific consumption about 500 calories
below maintenance, keep your protein and fat intake at their correct levels, drop your
*carbohydrate* consumption heavily - and you'll see your body fat% drop slowly but
steadily. There's roughly 3,500 calories per pound of fat so this regime should consume
about one pound of fat per week, not including any loss of weight due to water loss.

(ii) Gags wrote in aus.bicycles:

The 65% to 85% max HR range is actually more like the range to train in to increase
cardiovascular fitness (good for base training and general fitness). Sure, you will burn
fat at these intensities but if fat loss is your main goal, then you are actually better
off training at about 45% to 65% of max HR. The catch is that this only rings true if the
distance is the same rather than the time (ie 1 hr @ 45-65% will not burn more fat than 1
hr @ 65% to 85%, but, 47km @ 45-65% will utilise more fat than 47km @ 65-85%). As with
most things you have to compromise depending on how much time you have available and what
your long term goals are.

[...] If you want to lose weight, you should concentrate on LSD training (don't get
excited, it means Long, Slow, Distance). Basically you need to have your body utilising
its aerobic energy systems and to do this you need to exercise at a moderate intensity
for long periods of time. She is especially correct in that what you eat plays a big part
in your results. As you have not said what your current situation is (could range from
wanting to lose a couple of kg for summer to up in the obese range), it is hard to know
what your final goals are.

2.2.2 How do I calculate my BMR (Basil Metabolic Rate)?

(i) Gags wrote in aus.bicycles:

BMR = 66 + (13.7 x weight(kg)) + (5 x height(cm)) - (6.8 x age) kcal

(ii) DMR wrote in aus.bicycles:

I use the ISSA Basil Metabolic Rate (BMR) formula:
1. For Men: 1 x body weight (kg) x 24 For Women: 0.9 x body weight (kg) x 24

For you, that's 95 * 24 = 2280.

2. Factor in your body fat percentage. Multiply the result from Step 1 by the
multiplier factor:

Men 10 to 14%, Women 14 to 18%: 1.0

Men 14 to 20%, Women 18 to 28%: 0.95

Men 20 to 28%, Women 28 to 38%: 0.90

Men over 28%, Women over 38%: 0.85

For the sake of illustration I'll assume you're in the 20-28% group, therefore:

2280 * 0.90 = 2052 calories per day.

This is your BMR. It's your base rate.

3. Factor in your daily activity level. Multiply your BMR by the daily activity level
multiplier factor:

The Average Couch Potato range:
4.30 (130%) = Very Light: Sitting, studying, talking, little walking or
other activities through out the day
5.55 (155%) = Light: Typing, teaching, lab/shop work, some walking
throughout the day

The Average Fitness Buff Range:
6.55 (155%) = Light: Typing, teaching, lab/shop work, some walking
throughout the day
7.65 (165%) = Moderate: Walking, jogging, gardening type job with
activities such as cycling, tennis, dancing, skiing or weight
training 1-2 hours per day

The Average Athlete or Hard Daily Training Range:
8.80 (180%) = Heavy: Heavy manual labor such as digging, tree felling,
climbing, with activities such as football, soccer or body building
2-4 hours per day
9.00 (200%) = Very Heavy: A combination of moderate and heavy activity
8 or more hours per day, plus 2-4 hours of intense training per day

For the sake of illustration I'll put you in the moderate group, therefore: Actual
Daily Calories = 2052 * 1.65 = 3386 calories (* 4.18
= 14153 kiloJoules)
per day. This is how much you use every day on average. As a general rule, if you
want to lose weight then consume fewer calories than this every day (start at -500
and see how you go), if you want to increase weight consume more (start at +500 and
see how you go):

Target calories:

Maintenance: 3386 calories Gain: 3886 calories (maintenance +500) Loss: 2886
calories (maintenance -500).

9. (a) Protein:

.8g/lb LBM. For the sake of illustration I'll assume your body fat % is 20%. Since
your weight is 95kg (209lb) that would give you a LBM of 76kg (167.2lb) and
therefore your protein intake should be 0.8 * 167.2 = 134 grams = 536 calories.

(b) Fats:

Roughly (Target calories * 1/3). Since we're assuming weight loss that would be
(2886 * 0.3) = 866 calories = 96 grams. No more than (96/3
=) 32 grams of that
should be saturated fats, preferably less. Rule of thumb: poly and mono-unsaturated
fats and Omega3 fatty acids good, saturated fats not so good, trans fats bad.

(c) Carbs:

Whatever is left. 2886 - 536 - 866 = 1484 calories = 371 grams.

There's a bit of flexibility in these targets but as long as you're fairly close
over the long haul they'll work for sustainable weight loss. The same would go for
maintenance or weight gain.

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3.1 Gear: Miscellany

3.1.1 What does bicycle insurance cover?

The general answer is it depends.

Things like insurance policies are in a constant state of flux - (did
you notice that standard exclusions now include "Terrorist Attack"😉, so
any information presented here should be taken as a rough-guide only.
You will really have to do the research yourself, particularly with
respect to different premmium providers.

Membership of your state bicycle body (e.g.: BNSW/BVIC) often includes
3rd-party style insurance, some offering insurance for the rider for an
extra premium.

General household policies usually cover the bike at home, but perhaps
only to a certain value. Check with your insurance provider to find out
if/what that value is, and if the bike needs to be specifically
mentioned in the policy. Be careful about exclusions on "Sporting
Goods", even if you never ride your bike as sport.

Travel Insurance will readily cover a bicycle (obviously only during
travel), but only to a certain value, and can be very expensive.
Usually the bike is not covered for damage during use.

It is possible to get general bicycle insurance, even with extensions
for overseas travel. It will have conditions like "bike only covered
for theft if securely locked to an immovable object", and you may have
to get a written valuation from your LBS. The best bet for finding out
who supplies this sort of cover in your state is to contact your state
bicycling body.

Reported policy costs (per annum) have been around 10% bike value.

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3.2 : Gear: Shopping

3.3.1 What online bike stores are there?

Limited to web sites where you can actually complete a purchase online:

* Phantom Cycles - www.phantomcycles.com.au
* Dean Woods Direct - www.deanwoods.com.au
* Cecil Walker - www.cecilwalker.com.au
* VicMtb - www.vicmtb.com.au
* Wooly's Wheels - www.woolyswheels.com.au
* Ferntree Gully Cycles - www.ferntreegullycycles.com.au
* Bicycling Direct - www.bicyclingdirect.com
* Netti - www.netti.com.au

3.4.2 Can I save money by importing gear myself?

Well, sometimes yes.

Local stores must charge you GST, and have already paid most of the
shipping. Depending on the value of what you import, you will be
charged GST by customs and perhaps duty too.

Before you buy, ensure sizing and specifications are absolutely
correct, and for electrical equipment (e.g. battery chargers) are
compatible with the local system. Also work out what will happen for
warranty returns.

So factor in shipping, GST, possible customs duty, currency conversion
charges (especially with credit card transactions), compatibility and
then compare the cost. Less calcuable costs are warranty return
problems, and discounts you might accrue via shop loyalty. Certain
shops will also give a significant percentage discount to state-bicycle-
body members, for example: BNSW card holders can get 5-10% off gear
most places.

(i) ftf wrote in aus.bicycle:

If you get it delivered through a courier expect to pay all the fees
(tax, duty, processing fee) and if through the post you will most
likely pay none (if the total order is less than $500 AUD).

3.5.3 Where can I buy a 2nd-hand bike?
* The Trading Post newspaper / www.tradingpost.com.au.
* Bicycling Australia classifides:

www.bicyclingaustralia.com.au/ba/classifides.
* Mountain Bike Australia (MTBA): www.mtba.asn.au/buy_sell.
* EBay www.ebay.com.au - know your prices though.
* Victoria:
* Bicycle Recycle - South Rd, Oakleigh
* Freedom Machine - Prahran
* Cecil Walker - Melbourne

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3.3 Gear: Custom Built

3.1.1 Does anyone know a good frame builder?

* Paconi in Melbourne
* JB Cycles in Sydney

3.2.2 Does anyone know a good wheel builder?

* Adam at Cheeky Monkey Bicycle Company, Sydney.

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3.4 Gear: Parts & Maintenance

3.1.1 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Miscellany

3.1.1.1 When should I use the yellow lenses with my glasses?

John Retchford wrote in aus.bicycle:

Light is scattered by particles, water vapour, droplets
and the atmosphere itself. The shorter wavelengths (blue
end) is scattered through greater angles than the longer
wavelengths (red end). This is why the sky looks blue away
from the sun. More blue light is scattered back to the eye
from rays that would not otherwise reach you. Yellow
lenses cut the blue end of the spectrum and thus the more
highly scattered light, leaving a higher proportion of the
direct light. This has the effect of increasing contrast,
especially in conditions of flat light due to light cloud,
mist or fog. This is why fog lights are usually yellow.

Try the yellow lenses in low, flat light and save the
clear lenses for darkness, where you want the maximum
light transmission and where scattering is not much of
a problem.

3.2.2 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Lights

3.2.1.1 Where can I get a cheap Vistalite Nightstick battery?

Nick Payne wrote in aus.bicycle:

I made my own stick batteries. It cost about $55 for 10
4.9Ah NiMH sub-C cells with solder tags from Jaycar -
enough for two sticks. I used garden irrigation pipe and
endcaps to make the stick. I already had the pipe etc
lying around from having installed an irrigation system
in my garden, but they're not expensive items. I also
needed a couple of sockets to fit the plugs on the
Vistalite cables. So total cost was around $70 plus a
few hours of time.

4.1.1.1 Can someone recommend a smart charger?

Nick Payne wrote in aus.bicycle:

See www.angelfire.com/electronic/hayles/charge1.html. I
built a couple of these, with the addition of a switch to
toggle a resistor so that I can charge either 6v or 12v.
They work fine with bottle batteries and stick batteries.

4.2.3 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Brakes

4.2.1.1 My brakes are squealing!

(i) Joesph wrote in aus.bicycle:

If I haven't used my bike for a week or so I find that the
brakes sometimes squeak. My solution last time was to
check the toe in (this didn't help). Then I cleaned the
rims with methylated spirits and I also rubbed down the
rims with a soft brass bristles brush. This stopped the
squeak and now everything is quiet.

(ii) Kingsley wrote in aus.bicycle:

You could try some more up-market brake pads.
Supposedly Kool-Stop 'Salmon' brake pads are good at
stopping brake squeal.

(iii) stu wrote in aus.bicycle:

Toe in to reduce squeal, but not too much or the brakes
will become too spongy. It will also wear a curve into the
front of the pad. Greasing the pivots can help too.

(iv) tony R wrote in uk.rec.cycling:

My current pads of choice (with V-brakes on the commuter),
Clarkes red coloured ones, always squeal when new or when
the rim has just been cleaned. I presume the latter is
because I carelessly leave some soap or whatever on the
rims (although I always finish up with a rub down with
meths - for the rims that is). However as the noise
disappears after a few miles once some [censored] from the road
is picked up, I'm not too bothered. Maybe you've got some
unwanted residue on your front rim?

(v) Zog The Undeniable wrote in uk.rec.cycling:

[...] "Parallel push" V-brakes can suffer from this when
the pivots wear a bit.

(vi) Pete Biggs wrote in uk.rec.cycling:

This can be really tricky to solve sometimes. You do
everything right and the brakes STILL squeal like a
massivley amplified goose :-( Change of pads is your best
bet - after making sure there's no grease on the rim. Toe-
in doesn't always help. Flex in the brake/forke can be a
factor, but a brake booster (on v-brakes) can sometimes
make the problem worse.

All trademarks are property of their respective owners

"kingsley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Text maddogsbreakfast.com.auaus.bicycle.FAQ.txtOpen ↗ HTML
maddogsbreakfast.com.auaus.bicycle.FAQ.htmlOpen ↗

If someone (not connected via Dart Internet / Connect.com) would like to have a go at posting the
text version of the FAQ that would be good.

Well, it posted fine from netspace except for the dodgy fomatting changes that Outlook probably
made.. grrr!

hippy

Quoted message said:

I'm still unable to post the FAQ to the group. It hit a low point when the support from my ISP
asked "what is the IP Address of aus.bicycle"... *sigh*

lol. now I would think that is a high point. I think I would have had to laugh at them for a while.

How do the other groups do it? They seem to be automated.

Peter