Of the many joys this newsgroup has provided, its diversity of expression to the preparation of
risotto has been a personal favorite.
I'd like to return my small pleasure by citing the words of Frank Pellegrini as he describes his own
methods for preparing this dish. *
[an excellent and nourishing dish] Risotto, of which there are two authentic versions, the Milanese
and the Tuscan. Good broth is necessary for both.
For the Milanese, proceed as follows: Place in a skillet enough butter and olive oil in equal parts
to cover the bottom. Add a large onion finely minced and cook slowly just short of browning. While
the onion is cooking, add a handful of mushrooms cut in small pieces. If the dry ones are used they
should be soaked for a few minutes in a cup of hot stock. (The mushroom-flavored stock will be
later added to the rice.) Two quarts of stock should be heating while these ingredients are being
prepared. When the onion and mushrooms have cooked sufficiently, throw in two cups (for six
servings) of raw long-grain rice, washed and well drained. Stir briskly for two or three minutes
over a medium fire. Avoid burning the rice, for if you do, it will become hard as granite and as
difficult to cook. When the rice is well assimilated with the ingredients in the skillet, add
enough of the hot broth barely to cover the rice. Give it a good stir, increase the heat, and
cover. As it begins to bubble and spurt, stir again so that the rice will not cling to the bottom
When the broth has been completely absorbed, add more, and repeat the above routine until the rice
is cooked. Stir frequently, salt and pepper to taste, and don't leave the kitchen or you run the
risk of complete failure.
When the rice is done it should be somewhat fluid, about the consistency of thinnish mush, so that
when put on the dish it will slowly spread out. Before serving, stir in a piece of butter about the
size of a lemon. Garnish as you please and pass the grated cheese that each guest may help himself.
The Milanese dissolve a pinch of saffron in broth and add it to the rice before serving. I advise
against it, and if you want to know the reason, try it once.
For the Tuscan version, these are the directions: Cut in very small pieces, about the size of a
bean, half a pound of round steak, three or four chicken livers, and fry in oil and butter. Mince
two or three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a few leaves of basil when in season, a very small
onion, and a clove of garlic. They must be minced to a pulp. Add to the meat and continue cooking
over a slow fire for a few minutes. /The herbs should not be browned./ Add as many mushrooms as you
please without, of course, losing your fine sense of proportion. Increase the fire and add a small
tin of tomato sauce with double that amount of broth. Bring to a boil, then simmer for a few
minutes. Put in the rice and proceed as for the Milanese recipe. When the rice is three-fourths
done, add half a pound of raw spinach coarsely cut. Stir well and complete the cooking. The spinach
may be omitted. Try it both ways. This dish, with salad, cheese, and your favorite dessert, is one
of the most elegant among inexpensive dinners.
A final warning: Risotto is a dish that /must/ be served immediately after it is cooked. If it
stands for even a few minutes, the binding starches go to work and you have a mess on your hands.
From first to last, it requires constant attention while cooking, with frequent stirring to keep it
loose and fluid. Additional broth should be added the minute the preceding bath has been absorbed.
And when you serve it, be certain it isn't too thick.
* [Frank Pellegrini, The Unprejudiced Palate, 1948]
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