Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Cleaning Question

Started by jbkalla · · Last activity · 15 posts · 1,274 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
19 February 2004
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20 February 2004
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jbkalla
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  1. I'm thinking about taking my bike apart to clean it and was wondering if 409 is too harsh for chain/cassette/rest of bike? If so, any options? Windex? Soap and water? Also, does the cassette come off easily? (Shimano 105)

    BTW, if it's not already obvious by my question, I'm kindof a newbie...

  2. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by jbkalla
    I'm thinking about taking my bike apart to clean it and was wondering if 409 is too harsh for chain/cassette/rest of bike? If so, any options? Windex? Soap and water? Also, does the cassette come off easily? (Shimano 105)

    BTW, if it's not already obvious by my question, I'm kindof a newbie...

    I'd start with a maintenance book.Zinn writes a good one.

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by jbkalla
    I'm thinking about taking my bike apart to clean it and was wondering if 409 is too harsh for chain/cassette/rest of bike? If so, any options? Windex? Soap and water? Also, does the cassette come off easily? (Shimano 105)

    BTW, if it's not already obvious by my question, I'm kindof a newbie...


    Alloy components like your drivetrain parts, by the way, aren't going to be damaged by anything you can safely touch. They're tough metals. 409 isn't too harsh, but there are better options. If anything, 409 is likely to be a bit weak for many of the areas you'd like to address (like the cassette and chain); on top of that, anything soapy or waxy is going to work against you in the long run.

    The degreasers and washes sold specifically for bike maintinence contain solvents pretty well tuned to dissolve greases and oils without damaging anything. There are basic hardware store chemicals you can buy which do the same for cheaper (lots of petroleum-distillates do the same thing) , but if in doubt, spring for a bottle of concentrated degreaser from a local shop.

    They key, like I said before, is breaking down the lubing products you've been applying -- it's those substances more than anything which mix with road grime and dust, forming a horrid black paste which works its way everywhere.

    The only serious caveat is keeping solvents (and even high-pressured water) from getting inside of areas that are sealed and contain and internal grease system, like your hubs and bottom bracket. You'd have to immerse or really blast them to get dangerous, but just stay advised about that.

    Thoroughly degrease, scrub, rinse, dry, and re-lube. That's the basic procedure. Have fun -- it can be messy. Got a nice garage?

  4. original poster what do you mean by taking your bike apart? you should be more than fine if you just follow lokstahs procedure

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by lokstah
    Alloy components like your drivetrain parts, by the way, aren't going to be damaged by anything you can safely touch. They're tough metals.

    The degreasers and washes sold specifically for bike maintinence contain solvents pretty well tuned to dissolve greases and oils without damaging anything. There are basic hardware store chemicals you can buy which do the same for cheaper (lots of petroleum-distillates do the same thing) , but if in doubt, spring for a bottle of concentrated degreaser from a local shop.

    Most alloy is anodized,and the finish can be damaged by some cleaners. Citrus gegreaser works and can be bought by the gallon at home depot.Simple Green and Dawn detergent are also recommended. No need for the expensive Bike store stuff.

  6. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by boudreaux
    Most alloy is anodized,and the finish can be damaged by some cleaners. Citrus gegreaser works and can be bought by the gallon at home depot.Simple Green and Dawn detergent are also recommended. No need for the expensive Bike store stuff.


    Makes sense. I'd definitely agree that there are lots of options available; I personally tend to avoid detergents because the filming quality is one more thing to worry about -- I find clean-rinsing solvents are easier.

    Anything bottled as a mild degreaser (like the citrus cleaners you mentioned) is a good bet. Bike store stuff can be overpriced, but I've been snagging big jugs of Performance's concentrated cleanser for not so much.

    Anyways, good points.

  7. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by fushman
    original poster what do you mean by taking your bike apart? you should be more than fine if you just follow lokstahs procedure


    Yeah, taking it all apart isn't really necessary unless your bike has been dipped in a vat of tar, or something. Getting into all the hard-to-reach corners can be intimidating, but give yourself enough rags and a little brush with a handle and you'll get most of what you need. Taking the drivetrain apart would end up the more intimidating task.

  8. G'day,

    I tend to pull my drive train apart fairly regularly & chuck the whole lot in a bucket of Diesel, which in Oz costs around $0.90 a litre. I'll let the lot soak overnight, bit of a scrub & a wipe off the next day. Reinstall, lube up & ride that sucker....too easy,

    cheers,

    Hitchy

  9. Well, there ya go. To each their own, right?

  10. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Hitchy
    G'day,

    I tend to pull my drive train apart fairly regularly & chuck the whole lot in a bucket of Diesel, which in Oz costs around $0.90 a litre. I'll let the lot soak overnight, bit of a scrub & a wipe off the next day. Reinstall, lube up & ride that sucker....too easy,

    cheers,

    Hitchy

    I'm interested in your approach but I'm wondering--any problems/environmental issues disposing of the bucket of diesel?

  11. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Blackberry
    I'm interested in your approach but I'm wondering--any problems/environmental issues disposing of the bucket of diesel?

    A bubba would just keep usin it till it got too icky, then strain it thru a snot rag and and pour it in the tractor or pickum up truck.

  12. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by boudreaux
    A bubba would just keep usin it till it got too icky, then strain it thru a snot rag and and pour it in the tractor or pickum up truck.


    That's right. "Re-Use" is at the top of the environmental food chain.

  13. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by jbkalla
    I'm thinking about taking my bike apart to clean it and was wondering if 409 is too harsh for chain/cassette/rest of bike? If so, any options? Windex? Soap and water? Also, does the cassette come off easily? (Shimano 105)

    BTW, if it's not already obvious by my question, I'm kindof a newbie...

    A good place to start is on Park Tool web site, URL:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/BCB4.shtml
    The cleaning solutions should be neutral (not base or acid) and not leave any film.
    Go to the main index of the Park Tool site at URL:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
    You can select the topic by scrolling down the page and clicking the particular area of interest or clicking on the pictoral of the area on the bicycle.

  14. After a sloppy ride I fill up a bucket with car washing soap and use these brushes - it's not as good as flossing around all the joints but it gets 90% of the crud off in 10% of the time.

    http://www.coloradocyclist.com/images/products/full/finsmbb03.jpg

    The really big brush is more useful on my car but the smaller ones are really good at getting in the tight spots.

  15. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by lokstah
    I've been snagging big jugs of Performance's concentrated cleanser for not so much.

    Does their stuff work well these days? I tried some, maybe 2 years ago and it was virtually useless for breaking down grease . . . even at full strength.

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