Bike Positioning/Setup

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by hippy
Hi,

The track coach keeps telling me to put my seat up (I haven't done it yet - soo lazy!).
I also noticed that I sit on the front of the saddle too much which causes me to slide forwards when riding with one hand, doing pairs exercises.
Also, I get numb hands after a few minutes of riding on the drops.

Now, I know there is a period of adjustment to go through with the more aero positioning relative to road riding, but do you guys have suggestions or web sites that cover track bike-specific positioning?

For now, I'm going to lift the saddle up to my road bike's height and possibly move it back a bit, so my butt is on the "meaty" part of the seat and not the nose.

Any positioning advice for these issues would be great!

cheers
hippy

Just some suggestions that you could try, don't hold me to them. Your seat should be 50mm behind the vertical plane passing throught your bottom bracket (no more as this is the uci limit) and you shouldnt be able to see your front axle through your handlebars, if you see the axle in front of the bars you need a longer stem and vice versa. These things may not work as everyone is different but good luck and safe riding.

Quoted post said:

Your seat should be 50mm behind the vertical plane passing throught your bottom bracket (no more as this is the uci limit)

50mm behind vertical line through BB - I get this, but where on the seat is this measured from? Is it 50mm from the tip of the saddle to the BB or 50mm from centre or back?

thanks for the tips!
i'll measure it out tomorrow

hippy

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by hippy
50mm behind vertical line through BB - I get this, but where on the seat is this measured from? Is it 50mm from the tip of the saddle to the BB or 50mm from centre or back?

thanks for the tips!
i'll measure it out tomorrow

hippy

Sorry about that. The tip.

First, that 50mm saddle nose/BB plane is as far forward as you're allowed to have the saddle. I can't remember how far back is allowed, but there's a minumum saddle length too. It's a stupid rule, and I have no idea where those UCI idiots came up with that measurement protocol. If you think about it a little, and try to put it into practice for yourself you rapidly figure out why so many professionals are chopping off the nose of their saddles, and also why we're starting to see saddles that have a tail (Arione)

The numb hands after only a few minutes sounds like a weight distribution problem. After you get the saddle dialed in you need to work on the bar distance and height. If you're using real track bars then the hooks are longer and deeper than road bars, which creates a different fit. Sounds like your bars are too low and/or your saddle is too far forward.

Your track bicycle fit can be derived from a well-done road bike fit. In general: Your track cranks are probably a little shorter, so move the saddle up and/or back to compensate. Measure from BB center or pedal spindle rather than the ground because the BB drop is less on a track bike. Top tube length is usually the same but track bikes often have a shorter "cockpit" usually a slightly shorter stem and the saddle just a little more forward. Makes the bike more twitchy, which can be good. Always remember that the dimensions and parts geometry varies between road and track and compensate accordingly.

If you haven't had a good professional road bike fit then do that first, it's worth it.

Some fitting protocols change depending on the events you do, um, you haven't given anything to go on there. You mention "aero" positioning; if this means you're emulating the forward position that triathletes use then this could be causing some problems. One purpose of that position is so that your hamstrings are still loose enough to run a marathon after the bike leg - you're not a stinkin' runner so don't worry about it.

Often when you're finished you end up with something that doesn't look cool standing still (my mass-start bike has a brutally ugly MTB stem turned upside-down) but crossing the line first always looks the coolest.

Why aren't you listening to your coach? Seems like a waste of his/her time and your money.

Good luck,

Hugh Jass

Thanks for your reply. I should point out that I'm not racing yet, I'm just doing novice training to get used to the track and fixed gear riding. So, the UCI aren't so important at this stage - but obviously a good idea to check so I don't start any bad habits now.

Quoted message said:

The numb hands after only a few minutes sounds like a weight >distribution problem. After you get the saddle dialed in you need >to work on the bar distance and height.

Using the "look down, can you see the front hub through your bars" method, my stem appears to be too short. I guess this could be loading my hands too much?

Quoted message said:

Some fitting protocols change depending on the events you do, >um, you haven't given anything to go on there.

Sorry, that's because I'm not racing yet, just beginning to learn. Our club has a period of learning to go through before they unleash us in races 🙂

Quoted message said:

You mention "aero" positioning; if this means you're emulating

I only meant "aero" in that, on the road I generally don't spend much time in the drops compared to track where almost all my time is spent in the drops. I don't have any funky tri thing going on 🙂

Quoted message said:

Why aren't you listening to your coach?

I do listen, but I was a little slow acting on his advice, that's all. It is basically an open training session for club members (i.e. I'm not some top-level racer dude with personal coach), so he'd be there anyway and it's free because I have my own track bike.

Hope this clears some of it up? Just like the road bike, setting the track bike up will be a somewhat evolutionary process, listening and trying things until I find what works for me. I've got very little track experience so I take things easy and adjust things slowly.

hippy said:

Thanks for your reply. I should point out that I'm not racing yet, I'm just doing novice training to get used to the track and fixed gear riding. So, the UCI aren't so important at this stage - but obviously a good idea to check so I don't start any bad habits now.

Quoted message said:

The numb hands after only a few minutes sounds like a weight >distribution problem. After you get the saddle dialed in you need >to work on the bar distance and height.

Using the "look down, can you see the front hub through your bars" method, my stem appears to be too short. I guess this could be loading my hands too much?

Quoted message said:

Some fitting protocols change depending on the events you do, >um, you haven't given anything to go on there.

Sorry, that's because I'm not racing yet, just beginning to learn. Our club has a period of learning to go through before they unleash us in races 🙂

Quoted message said:

You mention "aero" positioning; if this means you're emulating

I only meant "aero" in that, on the road I generally don't spend much time in the drops compared to track where almost all my time is spent in the drops. I don't have any funky tri thing going on 🙂

Quoted message said:

Why aren't you listening to your coach?

I do listen, but I was a little slow acting on his advice, that's all. It is basically an open training session for club members (i.e. I'm not some top-level racer dude with personal coach), so he'd be there anyway and it's free because I have my own track bike.

Hope this clears some of it up? Just like the road bike, setting the track bike up will be a somewhat evolutionary process, listening and trying things until I find what works for me. I've got very little track experience so I take things easy and adjust things slowly.

how can you say funky tri thing. I find that with scoop bars oposed to drop bars, Since i weigh only 161lbs i can double my weight by pulling on the bars and push more across the top of the pedals, this inturn means that i can apply a lot more power to the pedals, where as with drop bars i can't generate the same kind of action, especially when accelerating, leaving me feeling somewhat out of position.

maybe its me that needs to practice riding with them, i just have my preferance since i have always rode in that kind of position.

do you have to race with drop bars

hippy said:

Hi,

The track coach keeps telling me to put my seat up (I haven't done it yet - soo lazy!).
I also noticed that I sit on the front of the saddle too much which causes me to slide forwards when riding with one hand, doing pairs exercises.
Also, I get numb hands after a few minutes of riding on the drops.

Now, I know there is a period of adjustment to go through with the more aero positioning relative to road riding, but do you guys have suggestions or web sites that cover track bike-specific positioning?

For now, I'm going to lift the saddle up to my road bike's height and possibly move it back a bit, so my butt is on the "meaty" part of the seat and not the nose.
Any positioning advice for these issues would be great!

cheers
hippy

if you do put it up, you'll probably find you use more glutes and hamstrings opposed to quads, the glutes and hamstring are larger muscle groups. i know which i prefare, but if you prefare to push with your quads, its usually best to usae them when glutes and hamstrings begin to feel fatigued, sliding forward on your seat. plus correct possitionin gives you a larger variety opposed to pushing one muscle group to fatigue.

when your foot is in 12o'clock your knee should come in line with the tips of your toes, also you shouldn't be able to see your front hub since your stem and bars should block your view.