cassette setup custom

g.daniels said:

I'm adding a 34T sprocket to a seven speed cassette fit to a 9/8 speed deore lx hub.

...

Quoted message said:

should the sprockets be snug under the lockring?

Yes.

I put together a cassette once without the required spacer. The resulting noise was unpleasant. I
suspect that long-term use with a loose cassette might chew up the splines on the freehub body, but
I didn't leave it that way long enough to find out for sure.

Dave dvt at psu dot edu

(g.daniels) said:

I'm adding a 34T sprocket to a seven speed cassette fit to a 9/8 speed deore lx hub. the cassette
without the extra sproket wiggles a bit when the lockring is tightened down. The cassette is backed
onto two worn gears for a spacer. question is: is the wiggle built in or desirable as the wiggle
allows chain takeup and built in chain line adjustment? when the extra sprocket goes on the back or
the entire group of sprockets on the original cassette setup are undone and then placed in custom
locations then is a cassette wiggle on the hub body ok or should the sprockets be snug under the
lockring?

You need a 4.5 mm spacer. I think that 2 cogs are only 3.6 or 3.8 mm. You can add a 1 mm freewheel
spacer between your 2 cogs. The cassette needs to be tight.

On 29 Jan 2004 09:19:03 -0800, [email hidden] (g.daniels) may have

Quoted message said:

I'm adding a 34T sprocket to a seven speed cassette fit to a 9/8 speed deore lx hub. the cassette
without the extra sproket wiggles a bit when the lockring is tightened down. The cassette is backed
onto two worn gears for a spacer.

Probably not thick enough. There is a specific spacer for this task, if I am not mistaken.

Quoted message said:

question is: is the wiggle built in or desirable as the wiggle allows chain takeup and built in
chain line adjustment?

No.

Quoted message said:

when the extra sprocket goes on the back or the entire group of sprockets on the original cassette
setup are undone and then placed in custom locations then is a cassette wiggle on the hub body ok
or should the sprockets be snug under the lockring?

They should be snug.

The spacer thickness that's needed is 4.5mm; if you can't find one locally, it's available online
from a number of sources including:

harriscyclery.netpage.cfmOpen ↗

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ok. the cassette mounted between lockring should be snug against the spoke protector or back there.
WHYWHYWHY?? where did this info arrive from?? my cassette jiggle mmmmm i'll guess 1/100">.19mm wud
take up the chain better than a fixed sprocket?? or release the chain to the next sprocket and
reduce errors in chain line adjustments: a bit of angle back there produces some inboard outboard
distance after a leg up to the CR?? so far i have 4-500 miles on this jiggle without any problem and
as reported previously am getting excellent wear. haven't measured the gears. as soon as the aus.
get their stuff. butbubtbut this is a deep thought engineering question or a senic wonder for
someone probabley asian or michigonian whose built a cluster viewer and spent some time working it
to see if MY ASSUMPTION is actually real or just another flat earth fiction where's J.Brandt??

g.daniels said:

so far i have 4-500 miles on this jiggle without any problem and as reported previously am getting
excellent wear.

I think it would be interesting to remove the cassette and examine the splines on the freehub. As I
said earlier, I suspect your little jiggle might cause some ugliness in those splines. You could
prove or disprove the theory...

Dave dvt at psu dot edu

On 30 Jan 2004 08:54:48 -0800, [email hidden] (g.daniels) may have

Quoted message said:

ok. the cassette mounted between lockring should be snug against the spoke protector or back there.
WHYWHYWHY?? where did this info arrive from??

There is no "why" given. Manufacturers seldom say why. There is just "is".

Quoted message said:

my cassette jiggle mmmmm i'll guess 1/100">.19mm wud take up the chain better than a fixed
sprocket?? or release the chain to the next sprocket and reduce errors in chain line adjustments:
a bit of angle back there produces some inboard outboard distance after a leg up to the CR?? so
far i have 4-500 miles on this jiggle without any problem and as reported previously am getting
excellent wear.

Yeah, but motion in the cassette on the hub is supposed to be as near zero as having the lockring
under the right tension can get it; let it wear the splines on the freehub and sprockets, and things
will hurt later.

Quoted message said:

haven't measured the gears. as soon as the aus. get their stuff. butbubtbut this is a deep thought
engineering question or a senic wonder for someone probabley asian or michigonian whose built a
cluster viewer and spent some time working it to see if MY ASSUMPTION is actually real or just
another flat earth fiction

Result is likely to be the same as running with the cassette loose for a long time; wallowishness
makes shifts uncertain, and then it's not correctable anymore without new toys. Sloppy cassette can
also make noise, but maybe the discman covers it up?

Quoted message said:

where's J.Brandt??

Look west.

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G? Daniels said:

Quoted message said:

OK. The cassette mounted between lockring should be snug against the spoke protector or
back there.

Quoted message said:

WHYWHYWHY?? Where did this info arrive from??

Because if the sprockets are free to wiggle around, as they certainly will with the chain pulling at
least slightly off axis, the sprocket being ridden will skew round and round on the freehub and
grind grooves at the pressure faces. This doesn't matter if you can listen to the squeak of the
squirm when things get dry but it will cut grooves and mash the splines on the inside of the
sprockets.

Quoted message said:

My cassette jiggle mmmmm I'll guess 1/100">0.19mm wud take up the chain better than a fixed
sprocket?? or release the chain to the next sprocket and reduce errors in chain line adjustments:
a bit of angle back there produces some inboard outboard distance after a leg up to the CR??

It will have no effect on chain running if you don't shift from one to the other and they are not
closely located. Just stick a spacer in there and tighten up the sprocket stack and be done with it.
It doesn't matter how many there are as long as they fit on there and can be tightened so they don't
wobble squirm. This reminds me of folks who don't mind that their front door squeaks every time they
move it and rouge is visible in the hinges. Some folks there are that cannot feel the pain of a
mistreated machine.

Quoted message said:

So far I have 4-500 miles on this jiggle without any problem and as reported previously am getting
excellent wear.

What you mean is that the bicycle still moves. I know people who have a couple of broken spokes and
ask why they should fix the wheel, it still works.

Quoted message said:

Haven't measured the gears. As soon as the aus. Get their stuff. Butbubtbut this is a deep thought
engineering question or a senic wonder for someone probabley asian or michigonian whose built a
cluster viewer and spent some time working it to see if MY ASSUMPTION is actually real or just
another flat earth fiction.

I recall people of your persuasion riding to school with the kick stand CLANKING on the crank
with every revolution and saw no need to fix it. You, as they, can ride another few hundred miles
as you are.

Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

g.daniels said:

ok. the cassette mounted between lockring should be snug against the spoke protector or back
there. WHYWHYWHY?? where did this info arrive from?? my cassette jiggle mmmmm i'll guess
1/100">.19mm wud take up the chain better than a fixed sprocket?? or release the chain to the next
sprocket and reduce errors in chain line adjustments: a bit of angle back there produces some
inboard outboard distance after a leg up to the CR?? so far i have 4-500 miles on this jiggle
without any problem and as reported previously am getting excellent wear. haven't measured the
gears. as soon as the aus. get their stuff. butbubtbut this is a deep thought engineering question
or a senic wonder for someone probabley asian or michigonian whose built a cluster viewer and
spent some time working it to see if MY ASSUMPTION is actually real or just another flat earth
fiction where's J.Brandt??

I think that possibly you may have replaced a 12-start or a 13-start cassette with a new one
starting at eleven teeth. If that is true, then:

Remove the eleven. Look inside at the splines. Notice how they only broached halfway through?

That's why you need a spacer behind low gear when you put an "IG" ( eleven start) cassette on an
"HG" ( 12 start) body. The IG cassette body is smaller overall and less common.

Is that what you've been writing about all week?

I thought at first that you were setting up a single speed on a seven cassette body and that's how I
replied a few days ago. (your subject was 'single' something).

If I am still misunderstanding you, perhaps you might write again and straighten me out. I'm
trying here. . .
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 22:23:56 -0600, A Muzi <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

If I am still misunderstanding you, perhaps you might write again and straighten me out. I'm trying
here. . .

How would his writing again help you to understand him? Wouldn't that just make it worse?
--
Rick Onanian