Handlebar install - tricks?

I've been riding Eclypse stems for a while, the way they work best it to remove the bolt, flip it
around so it is tightening towards the top of the stem, place a penny in the gap and tighten. The
clamp will expand a bit, allowing you to install the bars without scratching them.

Next?

"John Lansdowne" <idealaw@###concentric.net> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi, was wondering if anyone had any tips for installing a modern bar in an old-style stem, ie, a
stem without a removable attachment bracket.

So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides of
the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening without
unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem.

TIA for any help

"Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've been riding Eclypse stems for a while, the way they work best it to remove the bolt, flip it
around so it is tightening towards the top of the stem, place a penny in the gap and tighten. The
clamp will expand a bit, allowing you to install the bars without scratching them.

Next?

"John Lansdowne" <idealaw@###concentric.net> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi, was wondering if anyone had any tips for installing a modern bar in an old-style stem, ie, a
stem without a removable attachment bracket.

So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides of
the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening
without unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem.

TIA for any help

I go along with Mike S. on how the get the stem open a little wider. I actually saw that idea in the
instructions that came with a stem from Salsa. I also like to put a temporary wrap of Teflon tape
through the stem opening. You will want to really stretch it to make it as thin as possible, but
make sure it doesn't overlap itself due to the very small clearances involved. Make sure that there
are no sharp edges that can scratch the bar. Take the stem out and carefully work it around the
bends and shapes of the bar. David Ornee, Western Springs, IL

<< So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides of
the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening without
unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem. >>

Some quill stems have double-threaded clamps to facilitate this operation. Otherwise, a low-tech
method that works is to mount the stem in the steerer tube, and using a large, flat blade
screwdriver as a lever, pry open the clamp while threading the bar through with the other hand. Do
this carefully, so that the screwdriver doesn't slip and mar the stem.

Mike Krueger said:

<< So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides
of the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening
without unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem. >>

Some quill stems have double-threaded clamps to facilitate this operation. Otherwise, a low-tech
method that works is to mount the stem in the steerer tube, and using a large, flat blade
screwdriver as a lever, pry open the clamp while threading the bar through with the other hand. Do
this carefully, so that the screwdriver doesn't slip and mar the stem.

I used to find a standard 12m or so open and ring spanner would fit with the open ended end around
the clamp bolt and the handle part roughly parrallel to the quill. This lets you use one hand to
hold the stem and the spanner and one for the bars.

--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK

Love this: Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
home.in.tum.deoe quotefixOpen ↗

Grease on the bar does wonders if stem is still tight round the bends.

~PB

[email hidden] (Mike Krueger) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

<< So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides
of the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening
without unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem. >>

Some quill stems have double-threaded clamps to facilitate this operation. Otherwise, a low-tech
method that works is to mount the stem in the steerer tube, and using a large, flat blade
screwdriver as a lever, pry open the clamp while threading the bar through with the other hand. Do
this carefully, so that the screwdriver doesn't slip and mar the stem.

Alternatively, there is a stem pry tool, made by Nitto, that spreads open the stem, its pricey, but
if you work on alot of bikes it may be worth it, for more see here:
rivendellbicycles.com19029.htmlOpen ↗

"John Lansdowne" <idealaw@###concentric.net> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi, was wondering if anyone had any tips for installing a modern bar in an old-style stem, ie, a
stem without a removable attachment bracket.

So many of the newer bars have attractive silk-screened graphics, labeling, etc.on both sides of
the stem connection, but it seems a bit of a trick to get the bar through the stem opening without
unduly scraping the bar, at least in cases of a snug fit between the bar and stem.

Do take care to expand the stem binder area such that you don't scratch the handlebar. That's not
just an aesthetic consideration, as a stress riser ( gouge) should be avoided. Remove the handlebar
binder bolt completely. Use a wrench to prise the stem open by holding it in the space where the
binder bolt was and pulling it in your hand towards the quill. That leaves the other hand free to
manipulate the handlebar. AH stems are awkward in that regard.

Stems which have an integral thread may be opened nicely by reversing the binder bolt and
inserting a coin between the end of the bolt and the unthreaded side. (That's Ross Schafer's
elegant gift to cycling)

--
Andrew Muzi yellowjersey.orgyellowjersey.orgOpen ↗ Open every day since 1 April 1971

"Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote

Quoted message said:

I've been riding Eclypse stems for a while, the way they work best it to remove the bolt, flip it
around so it is tightening towards the top of the stem, place a penny in the gap and tighten. The
clamp will expand a bit, allowing you to install the bars without scratching them.

Not all stems allow this, alas, especially the nice aero ones with a blind thread for the clamp
bolt. Actually, my ITM Eclypse stem came with a little C-shaped metal doohickey stem priser. You
insert the clamp bolt the normal way, slip the C-shape over the bolt head, and back the bolt out.
The head pushes against the top of the C, and the bottom of the C pulls the clamp open. Cute. It
doesn't work with every stem because it only clears a 5mm hex wrench and many clamp bolts use a
6mm, though.

If you are having a really hard time you may be trying to install a 26.0 mm bar in a 25.4 stem.
There is some variance in bar and stem diameters, too.

Mike Krueger said:

a low-tech method that works is to mount the stem in the steerer tube, and using a large, flat
blade screwdriver as a lever, pry open the clamp while threading the bar through with the other
hand. Do this carefully, so that the screwdriver doesn't slip and mar the stem.

For a more high-tech method, Nitto sells a special tool for this purpose.