I've got these Matrix Aurora things on the Trek, and although this is my first roadie, and like, I don't know a lot about stuff, I'm starting to think they're kinda [censored]. I had the rear tweaked at around 500km as it developoed a bit of a wobble - had them both tweaked at 1500km as this was when the front (and again the rear) had picked up the wobble bug, and after 2000 the front is thinking about wobbling, and the rear...well as I was saying I think they're kinda [censored]. I'm getting around at about 77 kg at the moment, and In Central Western NSW the road surface is also kinda [censored], as is my partners attitude toward me spending any more money. SOO... About these Velocity wheels. I'm thinking about throwing my 105 hubs into a set. Any recommendations as to which set?? With the road surface in mind I'm all for reliability over weight, also with the heat out here I'm carrying so much fluid it kind of makes a few hundred grams negligable. I race sprint Tri on weekends now - I'm not up there yet but am giving it a bit of a thrashing, so yeah - reliability is the go.
Originally posted by gravelmuncher I've got these Matrix Aurora things on the Trek, and although this is my first roadie, and like, I don't know a lot about stuff, I'm starting to think they're kinda [censored]. I had the rear tweaked at around 500km as it developoed a bit of a wobble - had them both tweaked at 1500km as this was when the front (and again the rear) had picked up the wobble bug, and after 2000 the front is thinking about wobbling, and the rear...well as I was saying I think they're kinda [censored]. I'm getting around at about 77 kg at the moment, and In Central Western NSW the road surface is also kinda [censored], as is my partners attitude toward me spending any more money. SOO... About these Velocity wheels. I'm thinking about throwing my 105 hubs into a set. Any recommendations as to which set?? With the road surface in mind I'm all for reliability over weight, also with the heat out here I'm carrying so much fluid it kind of makes a few hundred grams negligable. I race sprint Tri on weekends now - I'm not up there yet but am giving it a bit of a thrashing, so yeah - reliability is the go.
Thoughts?? ~j~
Don't know much about the Aurora wheels, but it sounds to me like they were machine built, not hand built. Hence, you should keep trueing them at regular intervals to keep them in shape, especially in the first couple of thousand k's. After that they'll settle down and stop moving around.
In fact, I make sure all my wheels are true at all times as it's easier to fix minor deformaties than big ones. Get yourself a spoke key and a mate who can teach you how to do it.
Originally posted by gravelmuncher I've got these Matrix Aurora things on the Trek, <SNIP> Thoughts?? ~j~
I've had a set of Velocity Razors, 32 hole, for about 2 years and they seem fine. No going out of true or stuff like that. No idea where they sit on the price / quality ladder (although they're obviously not top end stuff like Ksyriums or Nucleons).
Don't know much about the Aurora wheels, but it sounds to me like they were machine built, not hand built. Hence, you should keep trueing them at regular intervals to keep them in shape, especially in the first couple of thousand k's. After that they'll settle down and stop moving around.
Hand-truing wheels only need to be done once or twice for the life of the rims, unless impacts cause deformation or spoke breakage. For a machine-built wheel, ensuring that the spokes have even tension is a good first step, after which further tensioning, truing, and stress-relieving should be done. Once the wheel is properly tensioned and trued, riding it around for several hundred kilometres should cause any twisted spokes to untwist, and another round of truing may be necessary. After this, the wheel should last many tens of thousands of kilometres without requiring adjustment.
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In fact, I make sure all my wheels are true at all times as it's easier to fix minor deformaties than big ones. Get yourself a spoke key and a mate who can teach you how to do it.
Truing is only half the job; highly uneven tension and twisted spokes will cause the wheel to go out of true soon enough.
Sounds like the set of wheels I had for my first tandem. I was breaking spokes constantly so I learnt how to retrue and rebuild wheels real fast. We use 36h Velocity DeepV's on our tandem and have done a few of the Big NSW Bike rides out west. They haven't seen a spoke key since the one and only slight retrue that they had when they were new. Our rolling weight is 170+ kgs so you should be fine on a half-bike
Originally posted by Jose Rizal Truing is only half the job; highly uneven tension and twisted spokes will cause the wheel to go out of true soon enough. [/B]
I assumed that anyone who was going to true a wheel would fix the spoke tension as a matter of course.
Truing is only half the job; highly uneven tension and twisted spokes will cause the wheel to go out of true soon enough.
I assumed that anyone who was going to true a wheel would fix the spoke tension as a matter of course.
You'd be surprised... the problem is compounded by people who don't have a ready method of assessing "even-ness" of spoke tension, short of getting the LBS mechanic to use its tensiometer (or having a pretty good ear for hearing spoke tone).
